When planning our two-day road trip in Provence, my parents and I wanted to stay somewhere special. Somewhere we could relax and indulge midway through our action-packed itinerary. Baumanière, a luxury hotel set at the foot of the hilltop village of Les Baux, was just what we had in mind.
With only two days in Provence, we were keen to make the most of our time. Les Baux emerged as the best place to spend the night, because of both its stunning setting and its position midway along our road trip route.
Baumanière immediately stood out. Set in 20 hectares of Provençal countryside, the five-star hotel has elegant lodgings spread across several buildings, three outdoor swimming pools, beautiful views of the rocky cliffs and two Michelin-rated restaurants.
We only stayed one night (sadly) but took advantage of everything the hotel had to offer, enjoying the peaceful setting, warm hospitality and superb gastronomy before reluctantly checking out.
Disclaimer: This post isn't sponsored and we paid for our stay in full — I just want to share my personal experience of a wonderful stay at Baumanière.
The vibe
Baumanière's story began in 1943 when Raymond Thuilier purchased a farmhouse near Les Baux in Val d'Enfer, which once inspired the poet Dante. The first guest rooms opened two years later and the hotel has been in the family ever since.
Today, Baumanière is owned by Thuilier's grandson Jean-André Charial and his wife Geneviève. Their attention to detail, thoughtful design and warm, personal service are part of what makes the hotel so special, and it was awarded three Michelin Keys (the hotel equivalent of Michelin Stars) in 2024.
We arrived in the late afternoon, after a long drive from Cannes via Arles. We pulled up at the main entrance, just outside Les Baux, and one of the valets parked our car while we checked in.
The welcoming reception staff gave us a rundown of Baumanière and its diverse facilities, and a carnet de voyage (travel guide), which came in useful given how much there was to see and do, before making the short walk to our rooms, accompanied by the porter. Golf carts are available if you need one.
At Baumanière, hotel rooms are spread across several traditional Provençal buildings. Most, including the Carita building where we stayed, are situated in the lower section of the property, near reception and La Cabro d'Or restaurant.
The most impressive building, L'Oustau, is a half-mile up the road, located beneath the rocky outcrop alongside the restaurant of the same name (I photographed it from above, at Les Baux castle). You can walk the scenic path between the two sections or take a complimentary shuttle.
Whether we were relaxing by the pool(s), dining at La Cabro d'Or or exploring the grounds, our experience at Baumanière was one of understated Provençal luxury and impeccable service in a glorious setting.
Rooms
We were staying in Carita, a traditional ivy-covered building with terracotta tiles. Our Deluxe rooms (one category up from the Classic) on the first floor had wonderful views over the landscaped gardens; ground-floor rooms have private terraces.
Each room has an animal on the door as well as a number — mine was a duck, while my parents' was a cat, which turned out to be rather appropriate, given the four kitties I befriended over the course of my stay. This cutie perfected the art of R&R!
My room was tastefully decorated and well-appointed with a spacious bedroom, sitting area, wardrobe area and generous bathroom, which had both a bath and a (powerful) shower. I loved the plush robe and the toiletries from Une Olive en Provence.
Waiting for me on the coffee table was a chocolate treat from the chocolaterie I would visit the next day (it didn't last long!). There was a Nespresso machine with coffee pods, and complimentary fruit juices in the fridge, which were replenished during turndown.
I slept very well: the bed was very comfortable, the room was extremely quiet and I appreciated the air conditioning against the late summer heat.
Facilities
Baumanière is more than just a hotel; it's a destination in itself. There are many lovely walks you can take around the grounds. Near us in the main area, we found the manicured gardens, chef's garden, vineyard and tennis courts.
Our closest swimming pool was next to Carita. Set in a tranquil garden with plenty of loungers, it was lovely both in the afternoon sunshine and the early-morning light. The pool was huge, with more than enough space for lap swimmers and more casual bathers.
We didn't swim in the smaller and even more secluded Le Manoir pool nearby. Nor could we squeeze in a visit to the spa, which has a hammam, sauna and fitness area and offers facial and body treatments.
But we did take the shuttle up to L'Oustau to swim in the large pool at the foot of the rocks of Les Baux. It's one of the most spectacular pools I've swum in and the poolside lounge area is particularly inviting.
While at L'Oustau, we visited the artisans' square: home to a chic lifestyle boutique, a ceramics workshop and a chocolaterie. At the latter, we watched the pastry chef making the next set of welcome cakes and I bought a delicious bar of praline chocolate.
One final service that we made good use of was the free shuttle to the village of Les Baux and to the nearby Carrières des Lumières exhibition. The village is three-quarters of a mile up the road and you could walk it in 15–20 minutes but given the hot weather and our limited time, we were grateful for the ride.
Food and drink
For many visitors, a Ballade through chef Glenn Viel's tasting menu at the three-Michelin-starred L'Oustau restaurant is one of the major draws of Baumanière. I'll have to save the experience for next time (I hope!) but we had an exceptional meal at La Cabro d'Or, which also features in the Michelin Guide.
Chef Michel Hulin's elevated Provençal cuisine features locally sourced ingredients, including vegetables from the gardens we'd just seen. La Cabro d'Or's twinkling terrace, overlooking the pond, was an atmospheric setting for what would be a special dinner.
You can order à la carte or opt for a six-course tasting menu like we did (€145). The food was exquisite and beautifully presented. My highlights were the langoustines with a zingy salad; the slow-roast cod with saffron ravioli; and the Madagascan chocolate with candied forest fruits. I also enjoyed my Provence martini with local olives.
After that feast, we needed to go for a pre-breakfast swim. We returned to La Cabro d'Or for our included buffet breakfast. You can also have breakfast delivered to your room and if you're staying at L'Oustau, you can eat in the restaurant or by the pool.
The buffet was extensive with delicious breads and pastries baked in house, cured meats, fruit, juices and pretty much anything else you could think of. My cooked-to-order omelette was great too.
Location
Baumanière is less than a mile from Les Baux-de-Provence, 10 miles east of Arles and 7 miles south of Saint Rémy. It's about 35 miles from Marseille Provence Airport, 20 miles from Avignon TGV Station and 35 miles from Aix-en-Provence TGV Station. The hotel can arrange transportation.
As Les Baux itself gets very busy during the daytime in summer, staying nearby means you can beat the crowds by visiting the village and castle first thing or late afternoon. There are many beautiful hikes in the area and it's well placed for exploring Saint-Rémy, Arles and the Luberon villages.
Would I go back?
We only had one night at Baumanière, but I wish I could have stayed for several more. I'd love to return one day – ideally with a little more time to chill out by the pools, explore the grounds, do some hiking and finally experience dinner at L'Oustau.
If you're looking for a taste of peaceful, elegant luxury and relaxation in the Provence countryside that's within easy reach of some of the region's best-known destinations, Baumanière is an excellent choice.
The details
Address: Baumanière, route d'Arles, 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
Number of rooms: 53
Check-in: 3:30 pm
Check-out: 12 noon
Price: Room rates start from around €350 per night for a Classic room, but this varies a lot depending on the season (expect much higher prices in July and August).
Planning a trip to the South of France? Explore my other guides and resources:
My complete Cannes travel guide
15 fun things to do in Cannes
How to spend a day in Cannes on a budget
Best Cannes beach restaurants
Cannes specialty coffee guide
Antibes one-day itinerary
Nice one-day itinerary
Making perfume in Grasse
Two days in the Gorges du Verdon
Two-day Provence road trip
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