During our recent stay in Cannes, my parents and I took a side trip to the Gorges du Verdon. With its towering cliffs and meandering turquoise river, this gorge-ous region is known as the 'Grand Canyon of Europe'. We spent two action-packed days hiking, white-water rafting, boating and enjoying the views. Read on to discover the best things to see and do in the Gorges du Verdon and my tips for making the most of your stay.
From its Alpine source, the Verdon River eventually reaches the 15-mile limestone canyon known as the Gorges du Verdon. The river's name comes from the Latin viridum ('green place'). You'll see why once you glimpse its distinctive hue. Depending on the conditions, the water may look more emerald green, teal or aqua: 50 shades of turquoise!
This trip wasn't my first time in the Gorges du Verdon: I came on a day trip with my family during our stay in Provence in 2001. I didn't remember much but according to my diary it was 40C and we hired a pedalo on the lake (proof below!). Being a grumpy teenager I was more concerned with the heat and missing my friends!
It all came flooding back once I found the #nofilterneeded photos of the striated canyon cliffs, winding Verdon River and sparkling Lac de Sainte-Croix. To get the most out of your visit, you'll want to experience the gorge both from the rim and at river/lake level. The villages of Castellane, La Palud and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie are great bases for exploring this wonderful part of the world.
HOW TO GET TO THE GORGES DU VERDON
The Gorges du Verdon is located in the Var and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence departments in the South of France. From Cannes, it took us 1h45 to drive to Castellane; it's a slightly longer journey from Nice. It's only 55 miles but the roads are steep, narrow and winding, so allow plenty of time and expect to be passed by many impatient motorists. There are lots of viewpoints along the way if you need to rest your legs — or nerves!
You can also take route 51 bus from Nice Airport to Castellane, although it doesn't run very frequently. If you don't have a car, taking an organised day trip from Nice (which also includes a visit to the lavender fields when in season) is a much more convenient option.
If you're coming from the west, it's about 2 hours' drive from Aix-en-Provence, 3 hours from Avignon and 2.5 hours from Marseille. There aren't any direct buses, so small-group tours are the easiest way visit the area if you're short on time and/or your own transport.
WHEN TO VISIT THE GORGES DU VERDON
If you want to experience all that the Gorges du Verdon has to offer, the best time to visit is between June and September. Temperatures, and tourists, peak in July and August, while June and September offer the best balance of weather and crowds.
We visited in the first week of September when French school holidays were over and we didn't find the area too busy. We enjoyed perfect weather throughout: warm sunshine and blue skies. That said, the day before we arrived, there had been heavy rain, so it's always best to pack accordingly.
Although a lot of the boat rentals and outdoor activities like kayaking and rafting only run between May and September, if you like hiking, visiting the Verdon in the spring or autumn could be a good option. It's a beautiful region year-round, although the river and lakes are at their most vibrant when it's sunny.
WHAT TO DO IN THE GORGES DU VERDON
Indulge your inner thrill-seeker
The Gorges du Verdon is the perfect place for an adrenaline hit or two! Many tour companies offer activities from kayaking and white-water rafting, to extreme scootering and 'aqua trekking'. Most are based in and around Castellane. I booked with Haute Provence Outdoor, which I found on GetYourGuide. They were very responsive and the guides were great.
Activities in the Verdon depend on water flow and whether the Castillon dam is open or closed. There's a fixed schedule in summer, but it's less regular at other times and tour companies can usually only confirm your activity 24 hours in advance.
I'd booked aqua trekking (also known as aqua rando), which involves a combination of hiking, leaping and swimming. But as the dam was open, aqua trekking was too dangerous and I switched onto a white-water rafting trip.
One of the more adventurous 'sporty' rafting options, the Point Sublime course follows an 8-mile route through the gorge. I hadn't rafted in over a decade and my trip in Costa Rica was more of a gentle paddle. But if you can swim and follow instructions, you'll be fine.
My parents dropped me at Huttopia Campsite and after getting kitted out with a wetsuit, lifejacket and helmet, it was time for the safety briefing with our guide, Éric. Just like when I used to row, I was at the back on the right. Paddling soon came back to me, as I tried to pay attention to Eric's commands like, "droite avant" (right-side forwards), "gauche arrière" (left-side backwards) and "stop!"
It was soon time for our first 'swimming test'. We had to swim across the river — not as easy as it sounds with the current — targeting a rock by the far bank. After scrambling to the top, we leaped 4 metres into the water and swam back to the raft. So far, so good.
We carried on paddling down the river, enjoying the views of the canyon, passing under arched bridges, navigating rapids and narrow gaps in the rocks and learning about the canyon's geology and bird life, including the many vultures soaring high above.
The second swimming test was tougher but even more fun! We jumped off a small cliff into fast-flowing water, floated on our backs in the safety position and then flipped over and swam to the shore. I was worried I'd forget the instructions but it came naturally in the moment. It was incredibly exhilarating!
We finished at Point Sublime, where the 'big canyon' starts. We had to deflate the boat, roll it up into a massive sausage and carry it up the steps to the clifftop, some 400 metres above. The views from the top made it all worthwhile. I'd love to go back another time to go aqua trekking, but white-water rafting was a wonderful way to experience the gorge.
Paddle, kayak or boat through the gorge
After all that excitement, we opted for a more serene Verdon activity the next morning. We headed to Pont du Galetas, where the Verdon meets Lac de Sainte-Croix, and a fantastic viewpoint. Nearby, you'll find various operators renting small motor boats, pedalos, kayaks and paddleboards.
As it was a hot day, we hired a boat, which came with a shade. It cost €40 per hour, which we thought was very reasonable (pedalos, for comparison, were €20 per hour). It was almost noon by the time we arrived and we had to wait about 20 minutes until our craft became available. Once again,
my Columbia Freezer Tank Dress was a real hero, even if it wasn't quite as turquoise as the Verdon!
Soon, it was time to board, with Captain Bex at the wheel. The controls were so simple even I could manage and I had no problems steering around the other boats, canoes and pedalos. My years of negotiating
'punt carnage' in Cambridge finally came in useful!
You have to see the turquoise water to believe it. Sadly, but understandably, for safety reasons, swimming isn't allowed. As we'd spent the day before in and around the gorge, a one-hour session was enough (check out
my Insta for more photos and videos). But if this is your main gorge activity, you might want to go for a longer outing.
Pick your perfect hike
Driving from Cannes, our first stop was in Castellane. As we approached the pretty riverside village, we spotted a small church perched on top of a massive hunk of rock. Indeed, this was
Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc, a chapel dating back over 1,000 years.
From Castellane, it's a short but steep hike to the chapel. It took us 30 minutes to reach the summit, with a few stops along the way. The 360-degree views of Castellane, the Verdon and the surrounding hills and countryside made the climb well worth it.
Inside, we lit a
candle for Diogo Jota, rang the bell a couple of times (
moderately, in line with the notice on the door!) and then ate our picnic lunch outside. On the way back, we checked out the
Petra Castellana archaeological site.
There are so many beautiful hikes around the Gorges du Verdon, so it's really a case of picking your location and preferred difficulty level. Many tour companies and individual guides offer guided hiking trips, if that's your jam. If you go without a guide, I'd recommend downloading
an app like Mapy to help you navigate the trails.
A view from the ridge
Going for a drive instead of a hike or a kayak trip is often considered an 'easier' option. But in the Gorges du Verdon, the steep, winding and narrow roads mean that driving isn't the most relaxing activity. But it sure is scenic and the incredible views may help calm your nerves!
Our first glimpses of the canyon came as we drove along the Route des Crêtes from Castellane to La Palud,
where we were staying. My dad kept his eyes firmly on the road but I was delighted with glimpses of the turquoise waters.
After my rafting trip, we drove to Point Sublime for an aerial view of the river I'd just navigated. Note that this car park does charge a small fee. We arrived in the magical golden hour light at 6 pm. There were hardly any other people there but an Italian family kindly took our photo.
The next morning, we drove along the
rive droite (right bank) from La Palud to Pont du Galetas. The hairpin bends and narrow roads make this 12-mile route a slow journey. We were grateful to be stuck behind some slow camper vans! There are very few safe places to turn around, so try not to miss your turn. Most viewpoints here only have a few parking spots. In July or August, try to go early in the morning.
I wanted to stop at
Belvédère de Galetas, which has views of both Lac de Sainte-Croix and the gorge, but there were no spaces. Luckily, my dad managed to park us at the next viewpoint,
Point de Vue — Lac de Sainte-Croix. You can see the bridge and the lake from here, though not the gorge. The views were spectacular here so we didn't mind much!
Explore characterful villages
Beyond the great outdoors, there are several lovely villages in the Verdon. We spent a few hours in
Castellane, a historic village upstream of the gorge. With a population of just 1,500 Castellane's centre is small but attractive, with a nice selection of cafes, eateries and shops. From the town, you can hike up to the
Chapelle Notre Dame du Roc, or see the remains of the medieval town at the
Petra Castellana archaeological site.
We stayed in a
wonderful hotel just outside
La Palud-sur-Verdon. I didn't get to see much of the tiny but pretty village, but my parents enjoyed a stroll there. There are several gourmet food shops so it's a great place to pick up a picnic lunch.
I wanted to visit
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, just west of the gorge near Pont du Galetas, but we ran out of time. Founded in the 5th century by monks from the
Lérins Islands near Cannes, Moustiers is a beautiful village, famous for its
faience (glazed earthenware) and other ceramics. There's a museum dedicated to the art and many shops if you're looking for a ceramic souvenir.
On the way back to Cannes, we stopped at Cotignac, a Provençal village 25 miles south of the gorge. We had a
lazy lunch in the bustling main square and went to see the
troglodyte cave dwellings carved into the cliffs and the historic olive presses. There was a wedding taking place and Cotignac certainly makes for a great wedding backdrop! It's even been voted one of the most beautiful villages in France!
WHERE TO STAY IN THE GORGES DU VERDON
You can get a taste for the Gorges du Verdon on a (long) day trip from Cannes, Nice or Aix, but staying for a night or two will allow you to better explore the area. You'll find all types of accommodation and a range of price points, from luxury hotels to campsites and everything in between.
If you don't have your own transport, I'd recommend staying in
Castellane where there's easier access to public transport and outdoor activities.
La Palud and
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie are also good options.
We had a wonderful stay at the
Hotel & Spa des Gorges du Verdon, a luxury hotel near La Palud. We arrived at golden hour to beautiful views over the village and nearby Mount Robion. Our two-room suite had a sofa bed for me, two window seats and two terraces.
After an apéro on the outdoor terrace — rosé for my parents and a beautifully presented cocktail with local lavender for me — we went inside for a tasty three-course dinner. My bass was particularly good. The extensive buffet breakfast was even better, with an array of pastries, fruit, charcuterie and cooked items.
There's a heated pool, jacuzzi and steam room inside a greenhouse-like structure where you can enjoy the views of the verdant landscape while swimming. If even that's too much effort, seek out the sun loungers and soak in the scenery (or take a catnap).
Another hotel we considered was
Hotel Grand Canyon du Verdon, which is less luxurious and further from La Palud and Castellane, but whose location right on the ridge on the left bank affords spectacular views into the gorge way below.
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