Set beside the turquoise Mediterranean Sea at the foothills of the Alps, Nice is often thought of as a summer destination. But its baroque architecture, historic Old Town and pleasant climate, make the French Riviera city just as lovely — and less crowded — in winter. Here's what my parents and I got up to on our 'Winterlude' day trip from Cannes.
Located on the Côte d'Azur, 25 miles west of the Italian border, Nice is France's fifth largest city. Its name derives from Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, and you may well feel victorious when you first dip your toes into the oh-so-inviting turquoise waters of the Mediterranean — even in chillier months!
I've taken many trips to Cannes over the past two decades, staying at my parents' apartment. But in recent years, shorter stays have meant less time exploring Nice and other Riviera towns. During my last visit, just after Christmas, it was time to put that right.
These days, Nice and the whole Côte d'Azur are usually seen as summer destinations. While Nice is fabulous in the summer, it's also extremely busy, especially during July and August. Restaurants are often booked up, beaches are crowded and hotel prices soar.
Historically, the Riviera was actually more popular during the winter, especially among the many Brits who flew south for much-needed sunshine and maybe even a dip in the sea. Nice has a mild climate year-round, with lots of sunshine. During our late December day trip we were treated to sunshine, blue skies and 14C temperatures.
1-Day Winter Itinerary for Nice, France
10:00 – Specialty coffee stop
One of the biggest changes in Nice since my last visit is that there is now an excellent specialty coffee scene. From local roasters to brunch cafés and coffee shops that also serve gelato, Nice has some fantastic specialty coffee spots.
During my last trip, I made a beeline for La Claque, a petite but perfectly formed coffee shop in the heart of Vieux Nice. I knew I'd come to the right place when I saw the atomisers on the counter that allow you to smell the aroma of the different single-origin beans before deciding which coffee you'd like.
Their coffee selection is impeccable. I went for a V60 pourover brewed with a natural Colombian coffee from Luis Marcelino, roasted by Paris-based KB Coffee Roasters. It was expertly brewed with a delicious blend of floral, citrus and tropical fruit flavours. I also bought some Ugandan beans from Czech roaster Fathers — the packaging is as delightful as the coffee!
I only had time for one more coffee stop on this trip, and Frisson was another Old Town gem. The music-themed café is lovely, the coffee tastes great and if you're there in warmer months, they also serve ice cream. What's not to like?
11:00 – Stroll along the Promenade des Anglais
If you're English and in Nice, you're pretty much required to take a walk on the Promenade des Anglais, a paved walkway that runs for 4 km beside the Mediterranean along the Baie des Anges. Of course, you don't have to be English to go!
The promenade takes its name from the English aristocracy who developed a taste for wintering in Nice during the 18th century. In the summer, you'll probably want to head down to the beach — but bring water shoes and a mat for the pebbles — and the sea.
In winter, swimming might be off the agenda but it's still a beautiful place for a walk, enjoying the sea air and the views of the art deco and baroque architecture, like the infamous domes of Hotel Negresco, and the verdant hills.
Wet-weather alternative: Pay a visit to Villa Masséna, an art and history museum housed in a stunning Belle Epoque mansion on the seafront.
12:00 – Make for the market
From the Promenade des Anglais, its a short walk to Marché aux Fleurs Cours Saleya in the Old Town. This outdoor market is open every day except Monday, and sells flowers and a huge variety of fresh produce.
Stock up on local lavender, honey, nougat, fresh fruit and souvenirs, or just enjoy the atmosphere as you wander from stall to stall.
13:00 – Old Town lunch
There are many lovely eateries in the Old Town, whether you're looking for traditional spots serving Niçois fare or buzzy modern bistros. One downside to visiting Nice between Christmas and New Year is that some restaurants — particularly family-run venues — close for the holidays.
Unfortunately, Bistrot d'Antoine, Chez Acchiardo and Comptoir du Marché were all closed — my parents have been before and highly recommend them all. Lavomatique, which I was keen to try, was also closed and Olive & Artichaut was fully booked. The latter has a Michelin Bib Gourmand and they do a very good value Bib Gourmand set menu — the restaurant is tiny so book well in advance!
We ate at La Cambuse, which is right next to the flower market so we could soak up the atmosphere — and the sun — on the terrace. We started with traditional petits farcis (stuffed vegetables) and then my dad and I both went for steak-frites (very tasty), and my mum enjoyed her daube à la Niçoise — beef stew with gnocchi.
Other traditional Niçois dishes to try are: socca (crispy chickpea pancakes), pissaladière (a savoury tart with onions, anchovies and olives) and salade Niçoise (made with tuna or anchovies, tomato, olives, onions and hard-boiled eggs).
If you're in the mood for a lighter lunch or want to take some food to eat on the beach, try BART, a funky focaccia sandwich shop in the Old Town. I haven't eaten there but I saw a *lot* of people carrying their distinctive stripy bags throughout the city!
14:30 – Postcard-perfect views of Nice
For the best views of Nice, take the short but steep walk up the hill to Colline du Château. It took me about 15 minutes from the Old Town with a few stops to take photos of the stunning views — and maybe to catch my breath a little bit!
The titular castle of 'Castle Hill' was destroyed in the 18th century but there's now a landscaped park where it once stood. You'll be rewarded with incredible panoramic vistas across the pastel-hued buildings, terracotta-tiled roofs and cerulean sea. There's even a waterfall up there!
The Petit Train Touristique stops near the park entrance if you need, or prefer, a less arduous way of getting to the top.
Wet-weather alternative: Check out one of Nice's excellent museums, like MAMAC (modern art) or Musée Matisse (it's worth the short bus trip to reach the 17th century villa).
16:00 – Get lost in Vieux Nice
Once you're back down at sea level, it's time to explore the Old Town. Strolling through the narrow, winding alleyways of Vieux Nice feels like stepping back in time. Everywhere you look, there are vibrant, colourful buildings, baroque architecture and wonderful places to eat, drink and shop.
I'd suggest going without an itinerary and wandering slowly, stopping whenever you find somewhere interesting — or need to refuel with some Niçois street food. One of my favourite streets is rue Droite, with its canary-hued buildings and fab antiques and vintage shops, like Maison Pampille. I didn't have time, but PUSS, at number 9, looked like a great coffee spot!
My favourite shop of all is Trésors Publics, which has an impeccably curated collection of beautiful and/or useful homewares and lifestyle goods. It's a fantastic place to shop for unique souvenirs that you'll actually use, as well as gifts — and gifts to self.
While not technically in the Old Town, Librairie Masséna Around the World is so close that I had to mention it here. This small but well-stocked bookshop is the English-language spinoff of Librairie Masséna, across the road. The staff are super-friendly and they often hold events — you might even catch Celia Imrie, fresh off her iconic appearance on Celebrity Traitors!
And when you're there, you may just spot a copy of Poetry of the Côte d'Azur, a wonderful poetry anthology celebrating the spirit of the French Riviera. It was compiled by dad, Paul Walton, with design by my talented friend Nicky, so I may be biased, but I think it's a perfect souvenir — or a great gift for anyone who loves this special part of the world. You can also buy the anthology online.
GETTING TO NICE
If you're heading into Nice city centre from Nice Côte d'Azur airport, the easiest option is to take tram line 2. The journey to Jean Médecin takes about 30 minutes and costs €10 return. You can buy tickets at the tram stop — credit cards and coins are accepted. Don't forget to validate your ticket on the machine when boarding: my parents got caught out by this once and were fined!
You can also take bus 12+ from the Parc Phoenix/Promenade stop a short walk from Terminal 1. It takes about 20 minutes and costs €4 (€2 for the card and €2 for the fare).
To get to Nice from other towns on the Riviera, the train is the easiest — and most enjoyable — option. The journey takes about 35 minutes from Cannes, 25 minutes from Antibes, 25 minutes from Monte Carlo and 40 minutes from Menton.
The double-decker trains are very nice: modern comfortable and well-appointed. For the best views of the Mediterranean, sit on the right (in the direction of travel) when travelling east and on the left when heading west. Also, make sure you get off at Nice–Ville, which is the most central station. Nice Saint-Augustin is out near the airport.
It's a 20-minute walk from Nice–Ville station to the Old Town (a little longer to the seafront. You can also take tram line 1, but it's not much faster. The city centre is easily explored on foot, but there's a good network of buses, plus the trams if you are heading further afield. For a more scenic option, take a ride on the Petit Train Touristique.
WHERE TO STAY IN NICE
One of the benefits of visiting Nice in the winter is that you often get much better deals on hotels and other accommodation. If you're short on time, I would stay in or around the Old Town where you'll be close to all the main attractions, including the beach.
Next time I stay in Nice, I'd love to stay at the gorgeous and historic Hôtel du Couvent, which has a pool and lovely views over the Old Town. If money is no object, check out Le Negresco, a stunning luxury hotel on the Promenade des Anglais.
Finally, this is a somewhat niche suggestion, but if you're a regular reader you'll know that Suede is my favourite band, so I feel that I will have to stay at Hotel de Suède one day! You may not get Brett Anderson welcoming you in but its location near Place Masséna just a couple of blocks from the beach couldn't be any better.
Planning a trip to Cannes? Check out my guide to spending a day in Cannes on a €50 budget, my Cannes long weekend guide and my many other posts about Cannes.
Looking for more South of France travel inspiration? Take a look at my guides and other posts.
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