I usually avoid travelling during peak season, but I had to take a week of holiday in July this year. After some research, I homed in on Palma on the Spanish island of Mallorca for the perfect balance of city break, culture and beach time. It's popular with couples and families, and also a wonderful destination for solo travellers: safe, walkable and with good public transport and small-group tour options.
I took an early flight from London Gatwick on a Sunday morning, reaching central Palma by lunchtime. I spent four wonderful nights at Nakar Hotel, mostly in the epic rooftop pool, and flew home late on Thursday night. This gave me five full days in Palma: more than enough time to explore the city and visit some of the beaches (platjas or playas), coves (calas) and other beautiful spots around Mallorca.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN PALMA
Marvel at Palma's stunning cathedral
The gothic Catedral de Mallorca, known as La Seu, is one of Palma's most visited attractions and deservedly so! One of the best views is from the rooftop pool at my hotel but if you're not staying there, head to Parc de la Mar, where the cathedral's honey-hued walls are reflected in the green lagoon.
If you want to visit the cathedral (you should!), book your ticket online to avoid a long wait. My ticket included a visit to the terraces (€25), which lets you get up close and personal with the buttresses and stained glass windows, and offers panoramic city views. I booked the earliest slot (10 am) but it was still pretty hot: it's a 215-step climb and you'll need to respect the dress code by covering up. There's a sunset terraces tour too, but it wasn't available when I wanted to visit.
After climbing down the stairs, I explored the rest of the cathedral whose construction began in the 13th century taking over 400 years to complete. Restored by Gaudí in the early 20th century, its focal point is the beautiful Rose Window: as the sun streams through the 1,236 pieces of stained glass, the light paints technicolour patterns across the nave. To learn more about the history of the cathedral, you can pay €5 for an interactive audioguide.
Enjoy the views from Castell de Bellver
Castell de Bellver is a 14th century fortress perched on a hill just west of Palma. You can walk there in about 50 minutes but I took the number 4 bus, which stops at the entrance to the castle grounds. It's then a 15-minute walk up the steps to the castle proper. There's some shade and several places to stop to rest or enjoy the views along the way, but it's best avoided during the hottest times of the day.
It usually costs €4 to enter Castell de Bellver but they weren't charging on the Sunday afternoon when I visited. As well as outstanding 360-degree views of Palma and the bay, the castle has a small but informative museum of the history of the city. They hold concerts on summer evenings and all in all, it's a lovely place to spend a couple of hours.
Explore Palma's historic old town
Palma was founded in 123 BC with the arrival of the Romans in the Balearic Islands. The old town is very attractive with its labyrinthine, honeyed stone streets, pastel-hued buildings and historic buildings. As well as the cathedral, places to look out for include the royal palace (Palau de l'Almudaina), city hall (Ajuntament) and the Arabic baths (Banys Árabs) — one of the few remnants of the medieval Arabic city of Medina.
If you're feeling the heat, take a moment to relax in one of the hidden courtyards, in the shade of La Rambla or amid the fragrant flowers of the tranquil Jardí del Bisbe.
If you prefer to go with a guide, check out this walking tour, which takes in the old town and cathedral, or this foodie tour for a taste of Mallorca's culinary scene.
Discover Palma's creative side
Palma's art and cultural scene has a lot to offer. The Mallorca Calendar is a great resource to find out what's on, including the latest exhibitions and events.
Check out Es Baluard Museu, a large and beautiful modern art gallery, or Museu Fundación Juan March, a 17th century mansion that now houses a small collection of paintings and sculptures. Located in a 18th century neoclassical building, Casal Solleric is a cultural hub that runs events throughout the year, from dancing to gastronomy.
A short bus ride from central Palma is the Fundació Miró Mallorca, dedicated to the work and life of artist Joan Miró. I cover this in more detail in the 'day trips' section below, but if you like modern art, it is well worth the short journey.
Shop for unique souvenirs in Palma's boutiques
I'd bookmarked a few shops before my trip but I was blown away by how good and reasonably priced the shopping in Palma was. There's a big selection of shops selling beachwear and colourful summer clothing and accessories; Dr Bloom, Les Filles au Soleil and Natura were among my favourites.
For a traditional Mallorcan gift (or gift-to-self), shop for espadrilles in every colour of the rainbow at Alpargatería La Concepción, or pick out a handmade basket at Mimbreria Vidal. Handbags, totes and pouches made with colourful, patterned fabrics also make great gifts. I got a shoulder bag at Xamba, where they also sell pretty ceramics.
Estiu Concept Store sells lovely clothes, jewellery and art from local women artists and creators, and I also enjoyed browsing at Rialto Living, a well-curated lifestyle store. Pick out your perfect perfume inspired by Mallorcan scents at Viti Vinci. And treat your kitchen to local salt from Flor de Sal d'es Trenc. Forn Fondo makes cute Mallorca-themed decorative biscuits — if you're like me, they may be gone before you get home!
BEST DAY TRIPS FROM PALMA
Basing myself in Palma gave me easy access to many of Mallorca's other beautiful destinations, by public transport or by taking tours. I covered the day trips I took in more detail in this post, but in the meantime, here are the highlights.
Ride an antique train into the mountains
From Palma, the picturesque mountain town of Sóller is an hour away on an antique wooden train. This 100-year-old narrow-gauge railway is very scenic and once in Sóller, you can continue your journey by tram to the beach at Port de Sóller.
After exploring Port de Sóller, I hopped on this two-hour speedboat trip to see and snorkel in some of western Mallorca's most beautiful coves and bays. The turquoise waters were warm and clear and it was a stunning place to swim. You can also book combo tours that include the train, tram and a boat trip from Sóller.
Snorkel and paddle the southern coast
I was keen to visit Es Trenc, a four-mile stretch of beach in southern Mallorca with soft sand and crystal clear turquoise waters. It's possible to get there by bus from Palma (take route 508 to Sa Ràpita and then walk along the seafront) but not super-convenient. Instead, I joined a small-group trip to Es Trenc, Ses Covetes and the stunning Cala Pi.
Bliss out at Platja de Muro
I hadn't had my fill of Mallorcan beaches so on my last day I took the public bus (302) from the Estacio Intermodal, a 1h20 journey to Platja de Muro in the north of the island. This four-mile beach is stunning, with its Caribbean-like golden sand and clear blue waters. There's a sand bar offshore, which means the waves are gentle and it's a great place to swim and relax.
I headed to the Es Comú section at the southern end, backed by sand dunes and a little less developed. I paid €13 for an umbrella and lounger (cash only) and spent several happy hours there. I really didn't want to leave!
Combine culture and coves at Cala Major
If you don't have much time in Palma and want to combine culture and a beach trip, I'd head to Cala Major. Located about three miles west of central Palma, Cala Major is just 30 minutes away by bus (routes 4, 46 or 108).
From the bus stop head up the steps to the Mirador Santa Eugenia for an incredible view of the beach and bay, and then make your way to Fundació Miró Mallorca, a modern art museum celebrating the work and life of abstract and surrealist artist Joan Miró. Explore the paintings, studios and sculpture gardens and take in the views of Cala Major.
Then, spend the afternoon at the beach, sunbathing on the sand and cooling off in the sparkling cerulean sea. The beach isn't that big and can get quite busy. The 'premium' sun beds (with umbrella and a safe) were €70 per day, so I kept my valuables with me in a small dry bag when I went into the sea, keeping a close eye on the rest of my things.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN PALMA
From bakeries selling bocadillos (sandwiches) to Michelin-starred fine dining restaurants, Palma's food scene has something for all tastes and budgets. Breakfast was included at my hotel, but for a morning bite or an ensaïmada (pastry), try bakeries like the 120-year-old Forn de la Concepció or Forn Fondo. Read this post for specialty coffee and brunch recommendations in Palma.
I kept lunch low key, picking up a sandwich or rustic Mallorcan bread, jamón ibérico (when in Rome...) and juicy tomatoes at a grocery store or market. Mercat de l'Olivar is a great place to stock up on picnic supplies. Don't miss the cones of jamón ibérico bites!
On my first night, I retreated into the cool, wine-cellar-like space of La Bodeguilla. The food was top-notch: I started with a tomato salad with cod, pistachio and garlic, and then moved onto the Mallorcan suckling pig with panadera potatoes and salad.
For my 'signature' dinner, I ate at Marc Fosh Restaurant, whose Michelin-starred tasting menu allowed me to journey through the flavours of Mallorca. Everything was beautifully presented and tasted delicious; the service was impeccable too and the setting, in a former convent, is understated but lovely.
My friend Juan recommended La Rosa Vermutería, a neighbourhood restaurant and vermouth bar. Tapas and small plates can be a challenge for solo travellers but the lovely waiter helped me order the right amount of food and ensured it came in the best order. He also let me mix and match my croquetas so I could try different flavours.
I scored a last-minute table at La Vieja de Jonay Hernandez, a fun, modern eatery that serves innovative Canarian cuisine with Latin American influences. I started with the potent and refreshing Incredible Hulk cocktail, then enjoying the cured mackerel with aguachile, Canadian roast ham and veal cheek arepo with avocado mojo. The menu is full of creative twists on classic dishes, and the daily lunch menu is superb value.
At cocktail hour, I had a delicious Godfather Sour at Door 13, a speakeasy tucked away in an atmospheric underground setting in the old town. The mixology is top notch (I wish I'd gone back to try the White Truffle Negroni) and there's often live music.
The cocktail with the best view was at the rooftop bar at Nakar Hotel, where I was staying. Sitting next to the pool, I watched the sunset and took in the golden hour views of the cathedral, the city and the bay of Palma. With the DJ playing chillout music, I felt a million miles away from my home in London.
WHERE TO STAY IN PALMA
If you're travelling to Palma in the summer, book early to get the best rates. I'd highly recommend choosing a hotel with a pool and/or beach access: you'll need it! I decided to book a hotel in the old town and then take trips to Mallorca's stunning beaches. Being in the old town (rather than near the port) also meant I was close to all of the main sights and public transport options, with a wealth of great eateries and bars on my doorstep.
Sadly, hotels like Es Princep, Convent de la Missio, Hotel Cappuccino and Sant Jaume Design Hotel were a little out of my budget — they looked amazing! But I absolutely loved the hotel I booked, Nakar Hotel. Its location, next to El Corte Inglés on elegant Avenida Jaime III, was perfect: a 10- to 15-minute walk from pretty much everywhere I wanted to go, and close to the stop for the airport bus.
The staff were so welcoming throughout my stay, letting me use the pool and tranquil basement spa after checkout on my last day. My deluxe room came with a balcony overlooking Avenida Jaime III and was comfortable, quiet and very well appointed (I paid about €240 per night; cheaper room rates are available). The included breakfast is served on the seventh floor, overlooking the cathedral: there's a buffet with pastries, bread, cold cuts and fruit, plus cooked-to-order hot dishes.
The real star is the rooftop infinity pool. It's more suited for dipping and relaxing than doing laps, but the views of Palma and the cathedral are incredible. There were always sun beds available and it was so nice having somewhere to cool off and chill out after the heat and hustle of the city. By night, tables replace the loungers as the bar opens up. If I come back to Palma, I would definitely book Nakar Hotel again.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Getting to Palma from the airport
Palma de Mallorca Airport (PMI) is located just five miles east of central Palma. **Note: there are several other European cities with similar names, including Las Palmas (LPA) and La Palma (SPC) in the Canary Islands, and Parma (PMF) in Italy. Make sure you book the right flight!**
The best way to get from the airport into Palma is by bus: route A1 runs frequently throughout the day, with several stops in the city. The journey takes about 30 minutes. Tickets cost €5 one way or €8 return: you can pay in cash on board or buy a ticket from the machine at the airport bus stop, which accepts credit card and contactless payments. You need to tap your ticket on the reader when boarding, but there's no need to tap out.
Getting around Mallorca
Palma is very walkable and there's a good bus network run by EMT (Palma area) and TIB (other Mallorcan destinations). A single journey on the EMT buses costs €2 — they only accept cash on board, but you can buy a ticket using your credit card at some city centre bus stops. If you plan to use the buses, make sure you have some euros (coins or small notes) on hand.
TIB buses are more like coaches. I paid on board using my contactless credit card (remember to tap out on the reader when you get off), although it's worth having some cash just in case. Fares are charged by distance ('hops') and paying cash is more expensive than by bank card. Travelling from Palma to Platja de Muro on the 302 bus (four 'hops') cost me €5.40 each way by credit card. If you want to visit Es Trenc beach, taking the 508 bus to Sa Rapitá (two hops) costs €3.60.
Taxis and Uber are readily available, although the small and often pedestrianised streets of the old town mean it's best to avoid travelling by car in the city centre. Renting a car is quite affordable but some of the roads near beaches like Es Trenc are narrow and meandering, and parking can be difficult in Palma and at popular beaches. There's also a metro, but it's only really useful for getting to and from the University of the Balearic Islands.
NEED TO KNOW
For packing tips for Palma – and other European city breaks – check out my Palma packing guide or my recommendations of tried-and-tested products for travel.
Electricity. As with many European countries, Spain uses round, two-pronged ‘type F’ plugs.
Language. In Mallorca, the official languages are Spanish (known as Castellano) and Catalan (the local Catalan dialect is called Mallorquí). That's why you might see different spellings for words like 'beach' (playa vs platja) and 'castle' (castillo vs castell). Many years of travelling in Central and South America mean I speak Latin American Spanish rather than Castellano but you'll be understood whichever dialect you speak. I tried to say GRAH-thee-ass instead of GRAH-see-ass and mah-LYOR-ca rather than mah-YOR-ca when I could!
English is widely understood, especially in the hospitality and tourism industries. But it's always appreciated if you can learn a few basic words and phrases in Spanish (or Catalan if you prefer!).
- Hola (OH-la) — hi
- Buen día (BWEN DEE-ah) — good morning
- Buenas tardes (BWEN-ass TAR-dess) — good afternoon
- Buenas noches (BWEN-ass NOH-chess) — good night
- Por favor (por fa-VOR) — please
- Gracias (GRAH-thee-ass) — thank you
- Adiós (ah-dee-OHS) — goodbye
- Sí (SEE) — yes
- No (NOH) — no
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