30 September 2013

NYC: Island Hopping

We got in to New York on Friday afternoon after a cheeky upgrade (thanks, BA) and after a slow drive over to the Lower East Side, via the Manhattan Bridge, we headed straight out for a quick dinner at Ruby's on Mulberry Street, before the jetlag set in. Ruby's is a tiny, friendly, Aussie neighbourhood restaurant, which serves a range of pastas, burgers and salads.

On Saturday morning, we rose relatively early for a run in the glorious sunshine. We headed over the Manhattan Bridge to Brooklyn and then came back via Brooklyn Bridge, and back up to Houston Street via the park and running path that hugs the Hudson River. By this point, we had worked up enough appetite for brunch and we made a beeline for Lafayette, a French bakery and all-day dining establishment on Lafayette Street in NoHo. My lemon pancakes with berries were delicious, though my kale-heavy juice was rather more worthy than tasty. But it was great to be sitting outside in the sunshine, watching New York go by.


We started walking downtown, via a series of art sculptures called Lightness of Being in City Hall Park. I couldn't resist leaping, of course, but I also liked the colourful pagoda that added some pretty tints to the Lower Manhattan skyline.



In the afternoon, we caught the ferry over to Governors Island, which was open for one last hurrah before the end of the season. There was a 1920s French fairground, art for sale in the former colonels' houses, which were great fun to explore, and great views of the Statue of Liberty. It was so hot that it was great to be out of the city for the afternoon.





Because we had been eating far too healthily thus far, for dinner, we went to Georgia's East Side BBQ, a tiny, 16-sweater restaurant in the Lower East Side. I had fried chicken with baked beans and fries and it all tasted amazing. The chicken was so juicy and the fries far too more-ish. It was pretty reasonably priced too and more fun than many of the more formal BBQ restaurants I've been to in the city.


In need of burning off our dinner, yesterday morning we took the subway to Central Park and made a brisk circuit of the 10k loop. The leaves are just starting to turn and the park was beautiful — the peaks of the gorgeous skyline definitely keep you motivated as you tread the hillier parts of the route. Ten, of course, it was brunch o'clock. We decided to go Mexican and I inhaled a plate of huevos rancheros Benedict at a place on the Bowery called Hecho en Dumbo.



Then it was time for another New York first for me: we caught the D train all the way to Coney Island and spent the afternoon strolling along the boardwalk, sauntering along the sand to Brighton Beach, people-watching and taking in the faded charms of the amusement park.




Disneyland it ain't, but that's a good thing, even if we couldn't find any freshly spun candyfloss.



When we got back to Manhattan, we headed up to the East Village for some excellent Neapolitan pizza at Motorino. It was a cool place and the huge pizzas were really tasty. The only surprise is that I've been here over two days and haven't had a burger yet. This can't last.

26 September 2013

Sci by Night

Once a month, the Science Museum in London opens up to adults on a Wednesday evening. The night always has a loosely scientific theme. After a few tough weeks at work, we needed a team outing and when we heard that this month's Science Museum Lates had a photography theme, we were sold. There aren't too many good freebies for people working within science communication, but we do have good contacts, which meant we got to skip the huge queue and go straight into the museum.


If you've never been to the Science Museum, you should check it out, as they have a lot of very cool stuff. First on our list, though, was the build-your-own-macro-lens workshop. Once our iPhones had been suitably converted, we snapped away. The best shots were of the bubbles on a cider bottle and of holographic bank notes, but of course I spent quite a while taking a series of somewhat out-of-focus photos of my eye.




The next activity was screen printing. You could pick whether you wanted a slightly faded black and white photographic print of a betting shop or of a dilapidated building — I love my urban wastelands so I chose the latter — and then choose to screen print one of two different colourful patterns on top. I always like taking away souvenirs, so we joined the short queue and produced our own prints, which we toted round for the rest of the evening.



We had signed up for tickets for a conversation in the IMAX between Roger Highfield (who is the director of external affairs at the Science Museum Group) and Lily Cole (model, actress and now social entrepreneur), partly about evolution and cooperation, but mainly about their respective projects: his book Supercooperators and her website, impossible, which encourages people to do things for other people in the hope that others might do things for them. Certainly a very interesting idea — I'm sure the game theorists will be very interested in the results.


Downstairs, there were some trees onto which you could hang your wishes, as part of impossible. I thought I was being shallow considering writing Clive Owen on one of the wooden tags, but there were plenty of suggestions that were closer to that thought than to the world-peace-type suggestions. I did at least get some free cheese straws when they ran out of whole portions.


We then had a bit more time to explore some of the other galleries, playing various science-themed games. I lost at most of them, but it was still a fun night. There are various bars throughout the venue, as well as eating options of various levels of formality. Given that it's free to go to Lates, it makes for a pretty cheap night out. I would definitely go back – ideally during a less hectic work night — the next time I like the sound of the theme. It's just going to be a shock to the system to join the queue.



Science Museum Lates (last Wednesday of the month). Exhibition Road, London, SW7 2DD (Tube: South Kensington). Website.

25 September 2013

Bex's Guide to NYC: Mapping My Favourite New York Places

Throughout September, I've been putting together a series of blog posts highlighting my favourite espresso bars, burgers, cocktails and things to do in New York. As promised, I've now put everything together in a Google Map. It works best if you click through to the Google Map here, as the embedded version is somewhat petite.



Google has recently updated its "my maps" functionality, which meant a snazzier design than I was used to. You can now choose different symbols for different types of place and you can also add places to up to three different layers, which you can turn on or off depending on what you would like to show. In this case: coffee, food and drink, and things to do.

I hope you find my NYC map useful and if you're interested in this kind of thing, you will probably be pleased to know you can create map points directly from a Google spreadsheet.

I'll probably be adding to this map pretty soon as I will be back in New York later this week. At last.

24 September 2013

"Who Do I Have To Sleep with around Here to Get a Stoli Martini with a Twist of Lemon?"

I have had mixed experiences with the most recent clutch of Woody Allen films — I'm sure I'm not the only one — and of the recent clutch, my favourites are Vicky Cristina Barcelona and Midnight in Paris. As such, I was pleased to see such great early reviews of his latest film, Blue Jasmine, and even more pleased when I got a ticket to a free preview screening last night. But did the film live up to its promise? And is Cate Blanchett's performance really so outstanding?

Essentially, yes. Jasmine (Blanchett), a former New York socialite, is flying to San Francisco to stay with her estranged sister — first class, of course, although she has no money. On the plane, she chatters away, mostly to herself, sips martinis and pops the odd Xanax. Arriving in the taxi with her piles of Louis Vuitton luggage at her sister's apartment doesn't exactly involve any streetcars, regardless of their name, but there is more than a hint of Tennessee Williams both in the setting of the apartment (it looks like the Mission) and in the nuances in Blanchett's lilting drawl.

We soon meet Jasmine's sister Ginger (an excellent Sally Hawkins) and her two young sons, and we watch as Jasmine tries to get her feet in the new city, and in her new lifestyle. She ain't in Park Avenue any more, Toto. She hopes to be an interior designer but as she's never had a job before, let alone any relevant experience, she decides to take a computing course that will give her the skills to take an online design course. It makes perfect sense to Jasmine, who is post-nervous-breakdown and in a state of both depression and denial. Meanwhile, she turns her nose up at and openly criticises Ginger's boyfriend Chili (Bobby Cannavale), whom she thinks is beneath her sister.

Throughout all of this, Jasmine keeps drifting in and out of flashbacks of her past life in New York, where she was married to Hal (Alec Baldwin playing the character he always plays), a financier in the Bernie Madoff School of Investments. The story of their relationship and Jasmine's relationship with their now-estranged adoptive son (Alden Ehrenreich) is told only gradually, with a number of good twists and turns along the way. But just as Jasmine finally thinks she might have found the answer to all of her problems in the form of a handsome, kind billionaire with political ambitions (Peter Sarsgaard), she can't help but wonder what will happen if or when her past catches up on her.

Clocking in at just over 90 minutes, Blue Jasmine is tightly scripted and well plotted. I wanted to know more about Jasmine's past, but I was also interested in watching her try — and fail — to be a "normal" working woman in San Francisco. The beauty of Blanchett's performance is that Jasmine is so utterly unlikeable — her character is selfish, thoughtless and shallow and has done, and will continue to do terrible things — and yet you find yourself almost rooting for her. When she meets her new love interest, you almost want things to work out for her, even though she needs help. A slap around the face wouldn't go amiss either.

The relationship between the two sisters works very well too: Ginger always jokes that Jasmine got the better genes (although they are adopted), but Ginger seems to be the happy one with her "shabby" (i.e. gorgeous) San Francisco apartment and the fun, if déclassé, boyfriend. The joke is really on Jasmine who still can't quite see that quitting her university degree to become Hal's trophy wife and achieving nothing apart from a great designer wardrobe for several decades doesn't maker her better than her sister.

Blue Jasmine is, perhaps, funnier than it ought to be given the subject matter, and it's a highly engrossing and entertaining film about a woman in crisis. If you're like me and were hoping for the Midnight in Paris treatment of the City by the Bay, you may be disappointed; save a view gorgeous views from Marin, the film isn't exactly a walking advert from the San Francisco tourist board. That's my only real complaint, though.

23 September 2013

Bex's Guide to NYC: Things To Do

I promised three parts to my 2013 guide to New York — coffee, burgers and cocktails — but there were still quite a few of my favourite experiences in the city missing from the equation. Hence this bonus fourth list. I am lucky enough to visit New York fairly often, so this isn't a round-up of the biggest and best tourist attractions, but I find that the activities on the list are all very New Yorky experiences. I will also be posting a Google Map with all of my NYC highlights on the blog on Wednesday.

1. Get high. You could go up the Empire State Building if you want to get a great view of the city, but I prefer the Top of the Rock experience at Rockefeller Center. It isn't as tall as the Empire State Building, but I think the skyline view is better — you get to see the Empire State, for example — and you get to look out on the city without any glass or railings in the way. There is, of course, a wall, but you can look out over the top. I like to go at sunset, but it can get busy, especially if you like to leap. 30 Rockefeller Plaza bet. 5th & 6th Ave and 49th & 50th St (Midtown). Mini-reviews of the Top of the Rock here and here.

The view from the Top of the Rock at sunset.

2. Pick a museum. My favourite is the Frick, a sort of best-of collection of the Old Masters, which has enough history to get around the fact that I'm not into art. The American Museum of Natural History is great too, especially the planetarium; I love the MOMA design store; the Tenement Museum tour is fascinating; and I've also enjoyed wandering through the grand rooms of the Morgan Library. 1 East 70th St bet. 5th & Madison Ave (Midtown).

3. NYC's worst-kept-secret freebie. You can get some of the best views of New York from the Staten Island Ferry, which runs from Whitehall (South Ferry) in Lower Manhattan to Staten Island. The bright orange ferries run 24/7 and the journey takes about 25 minutes and is completely free. Don't forget your camera. 4 South Street (Lower Manhattan).


4. Parks and recreation. When I'm staying in Midtown, I try to run in Central Park every day, looping around the reservoir if I don't have time to do the full circuit. It's gorgeous in autumn, but the park is beautiful at any time of the year. If you're there in the summer, take a picnic and relax under the trees. If it's winter, try the skating rink, with its superb skyline views and warming hot chocolate. 59th Street to 110th Street (Midtown / Upper Manhattan).


5. A view from the bridge. I love to get up early and take the subway to High Street Brooklyn (the blue A and C trains), cross the park and then run back to Manhattan over the bridge, which brings you out near City Hall. You can do it the other way round, but it's much more exciting to watch the Manhattan skyline appear before you. And you don't have to run — walking is fun too, especially if you also take in the gorgeous houses and views from Brooklyn Heights Promenade. (Lower Manhattan / Brooklyn)

Manhattan at sunrise, viewed from Brooklyn Bridge.

6. Take the high road. The High Line — a disused, elevated freight railway line that has been converted into a park and public space — now stretches from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District to 34th Street, bringing you level with the Empire State Building (although several blocks further west). You can enjoy the view and the green space, as well as art, live music and a few food, drink and artsy retail opportunities. If you walk southwards, you can reward yourself with brunch, lunch or dinner outdoors at one of the many Meatpacking restaurants. Pastis and the Standard Grill are among my favourites. Gansevoort to 34th St (Meatpacking District / Chelsea) Mini-reviews of the High Line here, here and here.

The Meatpacking District end of the High Line.

7. Eastern promises. Catch the L train or, better, the East River Ferry, and spend the afternoon exploring Brooklyn. There are tons of great shops and eateries on Bedford Avenue, Billyburg’s main drag, and at weekends, check out the Smorgasburg and Williamsburg Flea markets. Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn (Williamsburg) More about Williamsburg here, here and here.

8. Hit the shops. I must admit that indulging in some retail therapy is usually one of the first things I do when I enter the 212 area code. My first port of call is usually SoHo, but once I've raided my favourite chains (J. Crew, Madewell, Lululemon), Kate Spade and Bloomingdale's, I like to wander around the independent stores in NoLIta and NoHo. Fanelli's on Prince Street is my favourite place in the area to refuel; it's a complete coincidence that it's just opposite J. Crew! I've been going there with my family for over 15 years, but in the grand scheme of the café's 166-year history, that isn't very long. Further north, I really like shopping on the stretch of Fifth Avenue between Union Square and Madison Square Park, and Henri Bendel is the best place to shop for lovely gifts for girls. (SoHo)

9. The other Bloomies. This (mostly) recovered nail biter had her first manicure at Bloomie Nails in New York, and I’ve been loyal ever since. My mother discovered them by chance, as we often stay very close to the Midtown branch. Efficient and proficient, they even make my hands look pretty. 44 West 55th Street bet. 5th & 6th Ave (Midtown)


10. People-watching. Perhaps the best thing of all about New York is that you don't really need to do anything much to have fun and experience the city. Grab a coffee or a bagel (try Ess-A-Bagel) and sit in a café or in Union Square or Madison Square Park, or stand in Grand Central Station (especially at rush hour) or Times Square and watch and listen as New York goes by. What a great city.


Part 1: Top 10 New York coffee bars
Part 2: Top 10 New York burgers
Part 3: Top 10 New York cocktails

21 September 2013

Best in Show: The Bermondsey Edition

This time last year, I was waiting to sign on the dotted line on my flat and, wanting to make the most of my last few weeks in Marylebone, I didn't visit the Bermondsey Street Festival, the cool and stylish "village fête" that takes over the always lovely Bermondsey Street for one Saturday each September.


Although the promised warm, sunny weather did not materialise, it wasn't too bad either, so after my SoLoDo Running Club outing, I wandered back down to Bermondsey Square. Alongside the usual Saturday farmers' market, was a coffee stand run by Fika & Folly. When they open up in Bermondsey Square, there will be a coffee shop and a training academy. It sounds pretty cool. Plus, their cups are so stylish and even the stand is made partly from recycled coffee grounds.



Bermondsey Street itself was, thankfully, closed to traffic, although not to bikes. If you didn't bring your own, you could buy a really stylish one from several stalls. Some of the other stalls were associated with the shops and restaurants on Bermondsey Street; others were run by local artists and craft-makers. Some things that caught my eye included: locally themed ceramics from Siân Jones (the Elephant & Castle design is great); Stephen Shillito's postcode prints; and Saddle and Spoke's fancy cycleware.



When I reached the London Bridge end of the street, I picked up a raspberry limeade from Tanner & Co's stall, and a trio of macarons from Casse-Croûte — the raspberry and chocolate was my favourite, but the passionfruit was also good.



Then it was time for the main event: the dog show, sponsored by Bermondsey Street canine lifestyle store, Holly & Lil. Now, regular readers will know that I am definitely a cat person, but I also loved Best in Show so I couldn't resist watching the first couple of events: best pedigree female and best pedigree male.



A lot of fun was had by all, and even I found a few dogs that I thought were quite cute.



After all of that excitement, it was time for some lunch. There were a number of street food stalls set up in one of the parks, and I was tempted by a roast chicken ciabatta, until I saw the stand offering burgers from the newly reopened and refurbished Village East. Unfortunately, the burger wasn't great. It was nice and meaty, but way over-cooked; they should have grilled them up to order, as The Woolpack were doing, rather than simply reheating on the grill. That aside, it was a fun day out — especially as it was only a ten-minute walk home again.



20 September 2013

London Design Festival: DesignJunction

I heard about DesignJunction through Quill, my current favourite purveyor of gorgeous stationery, a few weeks ago, and signed up for a free ticket. It's an annual event that is part of the London Design Festival, occupying a huge space in The Sorting Office on New Oxford Street. I'm always up for a bit of shopping for homewares, combined with gawping at amazing designs and eating/drinking experiences, so I rounded up the girls for a stylish evening out.


After walking through some of the eateries on the ground floor, we reached the SodaStream bar. Yes, that SodaStream, but with a much nicer design than the machines that, in the '90s, encouraged us to "get busy with the fizzy." They were doing free cocktails all evening, so we tried a few. My favourite involved gin, raspberry and mint. The water did hold its fizz well, and the design of the piece has come a long way.




On the ground floor, there were numerous pop-up shops, including Quill, Falcon and a 3D printing company that was selling very cool cups and bowls in quirky shapes, and even a 3D-printed pineapple, the texture of which was impressive. Also Not Another Bill, a subscription service I'd heard of previously that will send you or a friend/family member/lover a small but quirky item in the post each month.


I'm always a sucker for interactive exhibits, and Hyundai Card, a Korean credit card company, were giving out free (fake, I assume) "credit cards" complete with RFID chips, which you could wave in front of little machines to print out a "receipt" with more information about the design of the card. They had some really pretty coloured cards on display, but mine was just white.


Upstairs, we found the LightJunction event, which, unsurprisingly, had a special focus on beautiful and useful lighting. I liked the huge remote-controlled Anglepoise lamps, but there were lots of other lovely designs.




Oh, and some fabulous kitchen tables, sofas and seats. Particularly cool were the canvas seats, where you could sit on a piece of stretchy canvas, printed with an armchair design. They were surprisingly comfy too!



I had been looking forward to the London Underground-themed bar, but although it looked awesome, they were only serving beer (from Camden Town Brewery), so I had to pass.


Instead, we went to the Modus–Barbecoa by Jamie Oliver collaboration and ate pulled pork sandwiches, seated at beautiful, wooden tables. The sandwich was quite nice, although The Ribman doesn't have anything to worry about.



Back on the ground floor after all that "window shopping" and wishful thinking, I ran out of time to do any actual shopping, which means I will probably have to stop by again at the weekend. We just had time to grab one last cocktail, before paying a visit to the most stylish short-term loos you've ever seen (such great light inside the stalls too) on the way out. All in all, it was a fun evening, especially given that I only spent £5 on the pulled pork sandwich. Serious restraint was exercised.

DesignJunction is on until 22 September. The free preregistration period has closed, but you can get a free ticket on the door if you have a VISA card.