26 November 2012

A Stone's Throw Away

My original plan for Friday night was to go to a local pub with a fellow SE16 resident, but instead he suggested we go The Arch, a climbing wall and bouldering centre in our hood. The Arch used to be based near London Bridge, but I think the location had to be closed due to all of the building work and chaos that is going on in that area. This is fine by me, as the Biscuit Factory location is a lot closer.

Yay, I reached the top (of a very easy problem)

Some of my co-workers and a few of my school friends are big climbing geeks and it was always something I'd been interested in pursuing, but other than the odd rock-climbing and abseiling outings on residential activity weeks at school, I never quite found the time. After one session on Friday, though, I think I might have got the bug. There are a lot of different routes laid out on the walls within the centre, demarcated by different coloured hand-holds. We soon realised that we could do most of the "problems" on the black route (the easiest one), and some of the problems on the tiger route (the second easiest). There was one tiger problem we got stuck on for ages and eventually I worked out how I could do it, but by then my arms were a little weak and my right hand was pretty swollen from when I smacked it against the wall, so I admitted defeat. The floor is very soft and cushioned, so it's usually fine to jump down, even from the top.

This is hardcore: some of the "upside down routes"

For a while, we watched some of the more experienced climbers completing some of the trickier routes, including some of the upside down ones. We had a quick go, when not too many people were watching, but I wasn't very good. Although I do a lot of running, my upper-body strength is pretty poor, but if I start doing a little more bouldering, hopefully it will improve enough for me to do some of the more challenging problems. The Arch also does a series of drop-in classes for improvers, which I'm thinking of doing. The problems provide a bit of a mental challenge as well as a physical one: working out exactly which order you need to place each hand and foot on the holds and which way you need to orientate them in order to be able to reach the next stage. Much as I love running, this was a much more fun and sociable work-out, and I got a real buzz from completing some of the more difficult problems I attempted.

Stylish shoes and (not very obviously) injured hand

The Arch. The Biscuit Factory (accessed via the Drummond Road end of Clement's Road), London, SE16 4DG (Tube: Bermondsey). Admission is £10 at peak times and shoe hire is £3.

25 November 2012

Present Tense

As I read a lot of novels, it perhaps isn't too surprising when from time to time, I find myself reading two books in a row that have very similar themes. Over the past couple of weeks, though, I've read three novels that have a lot in common: The Language of Flowers by Vanessa Diffenbaugh, The Guilty One by Lisa Ballantyne, and The Dinner by Herman Koch.

The first two overlap the most. Both involve alternating chapters with the protagonist confronting issues in the present day that force them to look back on his/her troubled childhood. Both Victoria in The Language of Flowers and The Guilty One's Daniel grew up in children's homes and acted out, before being placed with a foster parent who helped them to see that life could be happy and that some people deserve to be trusted. In both cases, though, it soon becomes obvious that something has gone tragically wrong with the mother figures, who have since become estranged. Although the mother figures seem to have betrayed Victoria and Daniel, the two children are not entirely innocent either.

I like the structure of both novels, with the switching back and forth between the present and the past and the gradual way in which the relationships of the two characters with their foster mother mothers are slowly elaborated upon and eventually, we begin to realise how it all went wrong. The books are quite different in tone and in genre. The Language of Flowers' Victoria, in the present, turns 18 and earns her legal emancipation after years in group homes. She must now try to find a job and make a life, and all she has to keep her going is her extensive knowledge of and love for flowers (and their meanings), which she learned from Elizabeth, who, we soon learn, was the foster mother who offered her a last chance to be part of a family before the foster-care system stopped trying to place her. We know that although Victoria soon bonds with Elizabeth, the placement didn't work out, although the reasons why are only revealed as the novel progresses. Meanwhile, in the present, Victoria finds off-the-books work with a florist and then meets and develops a tentative relationship with a guy called Grant. But has she learned from past mistakes enough to let Grant in or is she doomed to be alone? The Language of Flowers is a dark and sad but convincing read. Victoria isn't always easy to understand or to like, but she does come across as a character worthy of our sympathy.

The Guilty One reminds me of some of the better Jodi Picoult novels, in some ways, because it combines family drama with courtroom drama. Daniel is a solicitor assigned to defend an intelligent, precocious 11-year-old, Sebastian, who is accused of murdering the neighbours' eight-year-old son. Sebastian's cool, matter-of-fact responses to Daniel's initial questions about what really happened unsettle the solicitor, who thinks there is a lot more to the story. Sebastian comes from an affluent, Islington family but his home life is far from perfect and his mother Charlotte, abused by her husband, takes a whole host of different pills and potions to "calm her nerves," and on the day Sebastian is arrested, she is so out of it that she sleeps right through it. Daniel isn't convinced Sebastian is innocent, but the boy reminds him in some ways of his younger self.

At age 11, Daniel was taken away from his drug addict mother and placed in the foster care of Minnie, a widow who lives on a rambling farm up north and whose own daughter died at a young age. Daniel doesn't take to Minnie at first--he wants to be with his mother and to look after her, as Sebastian looks after his mother--but eventually, he likes her so much that he wants her to adopt him. We know from the present-day threads, however, that Daniel and Minnie became estranged, and as the book progresses, we start to understand the decisions that were made--in the name of love--that caused the rift. I found this book to be very engaging, although I've read so many courtroom dramas that I saw the ending coming a mile off. It didn't take away from the unsettling portrait of a troubled young boy and from the parallels between Daniel and his client. The Guilty Ones would be a more accurate title, because all of the characters have made mistakes and bad decisions.

Finally, there was The Dinner, which was recommended to me by a friend, and which started off reminding me of the Roman Polanski film Carnage, but rapidly progressed into We Need To Talk About Kevin territory. As with the other books, though, a lot of emphasis is placed on the things that people do to protect the ones they love, and especially the things parents do to protect their children. As The Dinner opens, Paul and his wife Claire are getting ready to go out for dinner in a smart Amsterdam restaurant with Paul's brother Serge and sister-in-law Babette. The first few chapters read as pure social commentary, bordering on farce, as Paul mocks, with intricate detail, the way people are willing to pay hundreds of euros to sit in a fashionable restaurant and eat beautifully presented but ridiculously tiny portions of food with exciting provenances. The waiter "offers" them the house aperitif, a glass of pink Champagne, but later they worry that they will actually have to pay for it, rather than it being on the house. Serge is an important opposition politician and so their table receives a lot of attention from the wait staff and fellow guests, but more important issues are up for discussion.

A short time earlier, the 15-year-old sons of the two couples were involved in an act of violence that resulted in the death of a homeless women. The boys have not yet been implicated, as the CCTV footage is not very clear, but the unhappy foursome are trying to decide what they should do, especially as Serge is planning to run as party leader. But the couples have other problems too. Paul, who initially prefers to give the reader the impression that he and Claire are just another couple enjoying an evening out, is a rather unreliable narrator, leaving out points that later become important. And, as in The Guilty One, the extent to which parents are responsible for and should be blamed for the bad behaviour of their children comes to the surface. The behaviour of Paul's son, for example, like Sebastian, seems to have been shaped by his father's actions. I found the dénouement of The Dinner a little anticlimactic and I enjoyed the book less than the other two, in part, perhaps, because Paul does not make a likable narrator and his son and nephew barely appear in the story at all, making it hard to pass judgments on their actions. I liked the writing style, though, and it made a compelling read.

24 November 2012

Bex's 2012 Christmas Gift Guide: Stockings and Secret Santas

After my recommendations for Christmas gifts for girls and guys, today is the turn of stocking fillers and Secret Santa suggestions. I raised the price limit to £15 this year, but most of these ideas are £10 or under.

Beauty and fragrance
1. Ren skincare kit for normal skin from John Lewis. (£13; John Lewis are offering 10% off this weekend). Ren make some lovely skincare products and this kit includes a travel size of one of my favourites, the Frankincense night cream. You also get a cleansing gel, a day cream and a mask. They also have options for different skin types, including combination.

2. TopShop printed lip balm tins. £5. A pair of lip balms, one pink and one orangey, in pretty, printed tins. Not bad for a fiver.

TopShop printed lip balm tins

3. Capri Blue candle tin from Anthropologie. £10. These are the gorgeous, slightly fruity-scented candles you can always smell burning in Anthropologie stories. For £24, you can buy the full-size jar candles, but the tins will still make your home smell like Anthro.

Clothes and accessories
4. Hexagonal earrings from the Design Museum shop. £12. "Geometry for the ears," as the website puts it. They come in a choice of three colours, of which navy is my favourite.

Hexagonal earrings from the Design Museum shop

5. Liberty scarf knot cards. £7.99. This deck of cards, which demonstrates a variety of stylish ways to tie your scarf, is free with a scarf purchase of over £150. But if your budget doesn't stretch to that, these cards will add instant chic to more reasonably priced scarves too.

6. Kinky knickers from Liberty. £15. OK, so they aren't that kinky, but they are very pretty, with their lace scalloped edges, and they come in a range of gorgeous colours.

Kinky knickers from Liberty

Food and drink
7. Backgammon mug from the Design Museum shop. £8. Not just for backgammon fans, this mug, with its orange and charcoal grey board, would make a stylish addition to any kitchen.

8. Cocktails with Bompas & Parr from Amazon. £9.89. As well as creative and unique cocktail recipes, this book contains plenty of facts about cocktails, past and present. Plus it would look great on your coffee table.

9. Rococo Coal for Naughty Boys from the Conran Shop. £9.95. Because some years, he's been naughty, not nice.

Rococo Coal for Naughty Boys

Etc.
10. Q&A a Day from Amazon. £6.85. A five-year diary with a twist: each day includes a different question, which you get to answer each year and see how your responses change over time.

23 November 2012

Bex's 2012 Christmas Gift Guide: Guys

After kicking off this year's Christmas gift guide season with my picks for girls, today it's the guys' turn. A lot of these presents--particularly the foodie ones--could also work well for women. And, of course, if you're money-rich and time-poor, you could just head down to the Apple Store and go crazy.

Food and drink
1. 'Good grief' glasses from Jack Spade. $38 (not available online in the UK, but I think you can get them in store. Because if you're going to drown your sorrows, what better way to do it than with a pair of glasses quantifying the five stages of grief?

2. Jensen's Bermondsey Gin from the Whiskey Exchange. £25.75. A friend bought me a bottle of this for my birthday in honour of my new hood and my love of all things gin. It tastes really good and I appreciate the simple, stylish design and typography.

Jensen's Bermondsey Gin

3. Laguiole cheese knife set from John Lewis. £27. These aren't available online and in store, there is a slightly more expensive version. Laguiole knives look great and last forever, and there's a certain elegance to whipping out your cheese knife set when you serve your cheese course.

4. Hario coffee mill ceramic slim from Amazon. £27. I haven't yet graduated to this level of coffee geekery, but I'm thinking about it. These burr grinders are supposed to be better than electric models, because they grind the coffee more evenly. It takes 1-2 minutes of turning to grind enough for one coffee. For the novice coffee geek, I would recommend starting with an Aeropress (£19.99), a really great piece of kit--cheap, convenient and brews a great mug of coffee (my full Aeropress review is here).

5. Butchery class from The Ginger Pig. £135. This one is a little pricey, but you definitely don't need to worry about emasculating your man with this gift. The class involves a 3 1/2 hands-on tutorial in the art of butchery--you can choose between pork, lamb, beef and sausage making (anyone who saw series six of The Apprentice will know how hard, and comical, the latter can be).

Don't make a pig's ear out of the roast

Accessories and tech
6. Pocket square from Peckham Rye. £27.50. This item was also chosen in honour of my new south of the river hood. They sell a range of silk scarves and pocket squares, as well as socks, ties and other manly apparel. Each item comes with sage sartorial advice; one of the three ways to wear the pocket square, for example, is: "Folded into a three pointed coronate, the three points representing the past, the present and the future." Or something. Less metrosexual colours than the one I picked are available...

Peckham style


7. Urbanears Plattan Dark Grey from the Conran Shop. £50. Stylish, comfortable and with great sound quality, this is a cool pair of headphones. Better still, "it folds down to the size of fist." Because that's how guys measure things. Or something...

8. Marc by Marc Jacobs brown leather iPhone holder from Liberty. £50. There are a lot of trendy iPhone cases out there, but this classic, brown leather design will never go out of style.

9. Paul Smith 'stripy on the inside wallet. £130. Another pricier item, but I love the way the classic black leather exterior opens up to reveal the quirky colours of Paul Smith's signature stripe design on the inside.

Etc.
10. Build your own architectural model from the Design Museum Shop. £15. Assembling this model of Tower Bridge (another of my new local landmarks) from tiny steel pieces should keep him entertained for a while, at least. And when it's finished, it will look nice on your mantelpiece.

Mini Tower Bridge!


22 November 2012

Bex's 2012 Christmas Gift Guide: Girls

Yes, it's that time of year again. As the Selfridges pre-Christmas 20% off voucher is already out and as pre-Black Friday shopping madness will be commencing over the pond later today, I figured it was time to bring out the first in my 2012 series of Christmas gift guides. This edition contains my present suggestions for the ladies in your life. I tried to keep the price-tags around the £50 mark, and some more wallet-friendly girlie goodies will be featured in my forthcoming Stocking Fillers and Secret Santa gift guide. And looking for a present for a guy? My picks are here.

Jewellery and accessories
1. Floral electricity scarf from Anthropologie. £44. Cheerful and stylish, this modal scarf adds the perfect pop of colour to a neutral winter outfit. I like the way you can highlight different colour combinations depending on how you wrap it. My first choice of scarf was this one from KJ's Laundry, which is really quite different, but I realised I included a starry scarf in last year's list too, so I went with the Anthro option.

Anthro's floral electricity scarf

2. USB ring from Kate Spade. $50 (not available online in the UK, although it should be in stores.) I know I'm a geek, but how cute is this ring? Beautiful...check. Useful...check. Plus, Kate Spade's packaging is even prettier during the festive season.

3. Mellis necklace from Dowse. £22.50. Dowse have a range of simple and elegant but inexpensive necklaces. I went for the geometric honeycomb, of course, but this playful ice lolly design is fun too.

Mellis necklace from Dowse

4. Cashmere wrist warmers from Highgrove (also available in Selfridges). £25. It's not like I'm the Prince of Wales's biggest fan, but I sure do like my wrist warmers. My office is very drafty, so I usually carry a pair with me from about October to April. I usually buy them from Brora but I saw a purple pair of Highgrove's in Selfridges and couldn't resist, especially as they are £10 cheaper than Brora. The pink colour are cute too.

Beauty
5. Laura Mercier La Petite Patisserie Quartet, Crème de Pistache, from John Lewis. £25. Laura Mercier's body and bath products feel gorgeous and decadent and smell even better. This travel set includes a cream body wash, soufflé body cream, hand cream and Eau Gourmande, which all have a rich, delicious nutty fragrance.

6. MAC Fabulousness: 5 Neutral Eyes palette from House of Fraser. £32. For the make-up maniac in your life, this would make a great gift. You get five very wearable eye shadows that are perfect for both holiday party and everyday looks. The packaging is cute too. Other colour-ways, including warm and smoky, are also available.

MAC Fabulousness: 5 neutral eyes palette

7. Voucher for the Selfridges Beauty Workshop. Selfridges launched their new Beauty Workshop earlier this year and one of its selling points is the wide range of treatments they offer. With manicures from £19 and facials from £25, you could just buy a Selfridges gift voucher and make up a nice gift card with a treatment menu and let her pick her own treat.

Etc.
8. Mini "Blessing of Rain" folding stormproof umbrella from Senz°. £44.95. It's unfair to say that umbrellas make boring gifts when they can be as stylish and functional as this little baby, which has an aerodynamic, wind-resistant design, and is asymetrical, placing more emphasis on canopy length than width.

Senz's mini folding umbrella in "Blessing of Rain"

9. Limpet multicoloured coat hooks from Made. £19. Made is a great company that sells high-quality design homewares at a reduced price, which they can offer because they work directly with the designers, commissioning the manufacture only of products that have been ordered. There are great savings to be had and these cute, playful coat hooks are one of the more affordable items on the website.

10. Workshops from Make Lounge. Based in Islington, Make Lounge hosts a whole range of crafty workshops. A lot of them are priced around the £50 mark, so your lucky lady could make her own luxury chocolates, luxury skincare products or a leather-lined purse, for instance.

Bonus: This year, it seems that advent calendars for adults are the new Christmas gifts. I didn't include any of these in my guide, because you would probably want to hand over the calendar before Christmas, but I thought these were interesting ideas. For £38, Ciaté's Mini Mani Month will give you a mini nail polish a day. For a more varied selection, YOU Magazine and Latest in Beauty are selling a Beauty Advent Calendar for £59, which contains products worth over £200 from a range of high-end beauty brands.

20 November 2012

A Hot Bed of Hot Breads: Firebox Review

Update (2015): Alas, Firebox closed down in 2013.

Tucked away on one of those unassuming King's Cross streets, south of the Euston Road, but not quite as far as the Brunswick Centre, is an interesting new cafe/political project called Firebox. A place where you can sit and plot your next demonstration or host your next leftie book launch, while you enjoy your Molotov Mocktail. I just wish I had known not to wear pink that day, because Firebox is as red as, well, the Red Square.

Firebox London

For an autumnal Friday lunchtime, Firebox was bustling, and there was definitely an interesting crowd--we figured some of the more studious types had wandered over from UCL or even the British Library. They only opened about six weeks ago and they still have a few kinks to work out. We showed up for lunch on Friday and there was a bit of a queue. By the time we got to the front, we discovered that most of the 'hot bread' sandwiches that constitute the bulk of the lunch menu were sold out. A shame, because interesting, indoor purveyors of light lunch near King's Cross are still relatively hard to come by and I was looking forward to either the mozzarella, prosciutto and tomato option, or the mozarella, sun-dried tomato and pesto. Instead, the cheerful, efficient hot bread-ista offered to make me something based on the small overlap between the set of ingredients that I like and the set of ingredients they had. The bread was nice, but the sandwich didn't taste as good with cheddar, and the tomatoes weren't very premium. I probably should have had the Spanish omelette or the veggie special of the day, a daal with rice. The food was reasonably priced--most items on the menu were around £4 to eat in.

The 'Moscow Mocha'

As well as your standard coffee drinks, Firebox offers a few leftie-themed options. I'm not entirely sure why the mocha with Nutella merited the title 'Moscow Mocha' (it was probably the optional red chilli powder), but I can never say no to Nutella, and it was pretty good. Next time, I may try the hot ginger beer, and to do due diligence, I ought to test out the coffee too.

You can wear any colour you like, as long as it's red

.It's the kind of light, airy cafe where you could get a few hours of work done--they have free wifi and a student discount--and you can also rent out some of the space for meetings. Although the menu isn't yet on their website, they do have their event calendar up there, so next time you have some time to kill near King's Cross and the Brewhouse on York is that bit too far to go, check out Firebox.

Firebox. 106-108 Cromer Street, London, WC1H 8BZ (Tube: King's Cross). Website. Twitter.

18 November 2012

"Don't Apologize; You're a Scoundrel"

Sometimes when I go to see a movie, I don't mind if I come out not liking it because it's something I felt I should see. This is definitely the case with The Master, because although there were things I liked about it, overall, I didn't find it terribly enjoyable, a fact that was exacerbated by its near 2h30 length. And for what it's worth, I saw the film in 70 mm, comme il faut, but I'm not sure this added to my experience in anyway.

The Master, shown in 70 mm in the Odeon West End

My main issue is the plot or lack thereof. If I am going to sit in a cinema for well over two hours, I at least want an engaging plot to keep me gripped. I started surreptitiously checking my phone at the one-hour mark and continued to do so every 15 minutes or so until the end. Freddie Quell (Joaquin Phoenix) returns from World War Two traumatized by his experiences. He's addicted to alcohol--to the extent that he mainlines the fluids he uses in his short-lived photography job--and to sex, and he spends several years drifting aimlessly, moving from job to job, and plagued by the occasional violent bout. Then he meets the charismatic Lancaster Dodd (Philip Seymour Hoffman), who leads a Scientologist-like group of individuals. Helped by his wife Peggy (Amy Adams) and son and daughter from his previous marriage (Jesse Plemons is an inspired casting as the son), Dodd believes he can "save" people by helping them communicate with themselves in their past and future lives. He soon latches onto Quell, whom he treats as his special project or protégé. Peggy is concerned by Quell's alcoholism and keeps coming up with ultimatums, but Dodd and Quell have a strange sort of bond that neither can quite renounce.

But then it continues in this vein for another two hours or so, without anything much of any consequence happening. I know this isn't the point of the film and I don't think it makes it a bad film; it's just not the kind of film that I enjoy. Here's what I did like. The performances were excellent: Seymour Hoffman, Phoenix and Adams were all superb in different ways, playing interesting but ultimately unlikable characters. Phoenix manages to make Quell seem physically uncomfortable in his own body for the entire film--a performance that isn't easy to watch--and Seymour Hoffman's Dodd has the perfect balance of charm and self-righteousness. The film is meticulously directed, and while it isn't necessarily visually stunning in the same way as There Will Be Blood, I appreciated Paul Thomas Anderson's directorial decisions, if not the editing decisions. Jonny Greenwood's score is uncomfortable, jarring, haunting and fits perfectly with the movie.

I just felt Anderson could have made many other more interesting points than, "here is an epic character study of some very strange people." What happened to those WWII veterans who returned to the US and struggled to readapt; the way American life was at that time that made it possible for Scientology and similar movements to rise; and so on. Instead, The Master meandered, mused and meditated, and achieved something remarkable and technically strong, but not, for this audience-member at least, very entertaining.

17 November 2012

The Caffeine Chronicles: Maltby Street Market

Borough Market is lovely but on Saturdays, no matter what time of year it is, it is very crowded, not helped by unwitting tourists trying to drag buggies and/or suitcases and/or bikes through the mêlée. Fortunately, Borough's less well known little sister, the Maltby Street market, has a lot of the same kinds of vendors but without the chaos. Thus far, anyway. As an added bonus, Maltby Street is even closer to my new abode than Borough. The only downside is that most of the vendors are only open on Saturdays, usually between 9 and 2, so today has been my first opportunity to check it out.

The Little Bread Pedlar and Coleman Coffee

The shops and stalls are located in a series of small industrial estates and tiny warehouse/retail stores located under the railway arches near Maltby Street and Druid Street, running from Tanner Street down to Dockley Road. I headed out in search of Monmouth Coffee (yes, a branch where you don't have to queue for 20 minutes), but was waylaid by The Little Bread Pedlar, a lovely bakery and purveyor of fine caffeinated beverages. On offer this morning, were a selection of pastries and some delicious looking brownies. Although I was planning to bake brownies this afternoon, I couldn't resist. They deliver their sweet treats by bike (natch), and if you've ever had a great brownie in an independent espresso bar in central London, there is a high probability it will have been one of LBP's.

A fine macchiato

In the same unit, Coleman Coffee, a sarth-east London roaster, is served. You can buy bags of beans or ground coffee, as well the usual drinks to take away. I tried the macchiato, of course, and it was great. Rich, creamy and flavoursome. The perfect complement to my brownie, in fact. There is a little room for perching outside the unit, but it was a bit drizzly this morning so I walked on and eventually found Monmouth, tucked away around the corner. It was a refreshing change to see a branch of Monmouth with only four people inside (including the baristas) and I'll definitely back both to pick up some ground coffee and for a Saturday morning macchiato treat.

Other Maltby Street temptations (Monmouth is top-right)

And with a butcher, a baker and an ice-cream maker, among other vendors, there are many other reasons to return to Maltby Street soon.

Coleman Coffee and The Little Bread Pedlar. Unit 5, Dockley Road, London, SE16 (Tube: Bermondsey). Maltby Street website.

16 November 2012

The Paris Caffeine Chronicles: La Caféothèque

France in general and Paris in particular are surprisingly bad at doing certain basic necessities. Like pizza. Or coffee. Even when I was a caffeine junkie but not a caffeine geek, it was hard enough to find a double espresso or double mac that wasn't scalded and bitter, let alone an artisanal coffee-based beverage. Knowing the French for macchiato--une noisette--helps, of course. Before my birthday Paris trip on Wednesday, then, I decided to do some quick research and once again, a page on this blog came pretty high in the search results. I did find a few possibilities though (most of them owned by expats) and was able to pay a visit to La Caféothèque (NB their URL isn't currently working) in the 4ème, just north of the Île Saint-Louis.

A la recherche de macchiato perdu: La Caféothèque, Paris

La Caféothèque is a Guatemalan-owned coffee shop, which offers coffee from a huge array of different countries: once you have picked your coffee type, you can pick your vintage. Although the coffee of the day, a Costa Rican blend when we were there, was 50 cents cheaper, I opted for a noisette with one of the Guatemalan coffees. When in a Guatemalan coffee shop... The descriptions on the menu and the fact that there was an illustration of an Aeropress were good signs, and when the coffee arrived a little while later, it was very good. My noisette had slightly more milk than I usually prefer but it still tasted great--the blend I chose was chocolatey, rich and smooth. In short, it looked like a macchiato you might find in London or New York, rather than the usual Parisian offerings.

Impressive noisettes / macchiati

The coffee shop itself turned out to be surprisingly cavernous. Near the entrance is a big roaster, where you can also buy beans or ground coffee to take away, and then you proceed through a labyrinth of rooms, some with comfy armchairs and sofas, some with tables and chairs. It was a quiet Wednesday afternoon so the Mac posse were obviously taking a break, but there seemed to be a mix of tourists and locals.

They definitely take their coffee seriously here. About time!

There wasn't time on Wednesday but during my research, I found a few other potential venues for quality caffeination in the City of Light: Coutume Café in the 7ème, which I believe is Franco-Australian; Gocce di Caffe in the 2ème; and the American-run Merce and the Muse in the 3ème. Let me know if you've been to any of these places--or any other places for a truly great macchiato in Paris.

La Caféothèque. 52 rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, 75004 Paris (Métro: Pont Marie or Saint-Paul). Website (offline at present).

15 November 2012

One Day in Paris

What better way to celebrate entering the last year of my third decade than by hopping over to Paris for the day? The last time I was in Paris for my birthday was in 2005, when Papa had wanted to surprise Maman for her birthday, which is the day after mine, so he flew her over for the day. The Bro and I, meanwhile, took the Eurostar over the night before, staying at Moniseur Exquisite's, before rendez-vous-ing with the parents in the Jardin du Luxembourg just before lunch.

There was no overnight stay this time--just a very early start, which was worth it means you can be strolling along the Canal Saint-Martin by 11.30. Before that, though, there was the excitement of a birthday gift on the Eurostar. As well as Prince Charles, BBC Radio and the Top 40, I also share my birthday with Eurostar, who were celebrating their 18th and giving out bottles of champagne to the fastest two 14 November babies on the train. Thanks, Eurostar!

Top: Canal St-Martin; Louvre by night. Bottom: Birthday gift from Eurostar;
posing on the canal; the padlocks of Pont des Arts

Paris turned out to be very chilly yesterday. It was also grey and foggy--the opposite of the bright sunshine I had seen in the forecast. This meant a trip up the Eiffel Tower was out, but a long wander along the canal and through the Marais was very much in. We ate lunch at Merci, a hip lifestyle boutique on the boulevard Beaumarchais. After perusing the pretty, colourful scarves and the beautiful and (occasionally) useful homeware products, it was lunchtime and luckily Merci also has a couple of cafes and a restaurant. I ate a delicious pesto risotto with bresaola and parmesan at the latter, saving enough room for a mid-afternoon chocolate éclair from Miss Manon in the Marais. I was also keen to prove that it is actually possible to get a decent macchiato (or noisette, as they call them) in Paris, and La Caféothèque, on rue de l'Hôtel de Ville, did not disappoint (I'll be reviewing this in a separate post).

Cheeky afternoon snack in the Place des Vosges

After a little more strolling, a little more (window) shopping and a lot more trying to keep warm, we ended up at Le Bon Marché, my favourite Parisian department store. I just about managed to resist buying some beautiful bedding, which was exactly the colour I have been searching for, but which was also way over my self-imposed budget. A consolatory steak-frites at Le Relais de l'Entrecôte, one of the Parisisan originals of my favourite Marylebone steak-house, Le Relais de Venise. I say "consolatory," but the steak and accompanying fries were both excellent.

This only left time for a brief amble over the Pont des Arts and back to Gare du Nord, via the Louvre and its pyramids. I love to walk through there at night when the lights are on and there aren't many people around. And then I was back in SOTR by 11.30, after a tiring but very fun birthday.

05 November 2012

All Fired Up


I wasn't feeling great today, but did manage to make it down to my local park for an hour this evening, which was where Southwark Council were holding their fireworks this year. Five years of May Balls in Cambridge and some impressive displays in Cannes have made me into something of a firework snob, but actually the display in Southwark Park was pretty good. The park was rammed with people when I arrived just before seven, but luckily my friends had chosen to convene near a bouncy castle, which was a useful landmark.


It wasn't too crowded where we were standing and we had a good view of the fireworks. It wasn't quite in the same league as the St Jocks' May Ball, but I was impressed with the length and choreography of the display tonight, and the music was OK too (they seemed to be having a Bond/gold theme; cue Skyfall, Goldfinger/Spandau Ballet's Gold). I was expecting a fairground or other entertainments, like on Midsummer Common in Cambridge, but there wasn't much to do afterwards so we all went our separate ways.


Getting out proved to be even more tricksy than getting in. One of the main exits to the park was closed, which left huge bottlenecks around the others. Overall, though, it was a fun experience and I hope that they will use the same venue next year.


The East Village in South-East London: Village East Review

The first time I walked down Bermondsey Street, soon after making an offer on my flat, I knew that however far from Marylebone I strayed, a street full of lovely shops and restaurants would await me. Village East was the first one to catch my eye: the font and menu design, as well as the downtown New York vibe, attracted my attention. A quick check on their website revealed they are run by the same people as another London favourite of mine, the Riding House Café. Although the dinner menu was interesting, it was the brunch that I wanted to try first, so BB and I went today.

Village East--not in the East Village

After seeing how busy Village East was on that first Tuesday evening, I booked us a table and the place was bustling today. With its simple but stylish decor and hip but laid-back atmosphere, it felt like the perfect place to hang out on a rainy Sunday. Despite the busyness, our waiter was friendly and efficient and we never felt rushed. The only problem was deciding what to order. I was tempted by the posh bacon sarnie (with fresh bacon and avocado) and the sweetcorn fritters, but in the end, I went for the buttermilk pancakes with smoked bacon and maple syrup. While I was waiting, I ordered a superberry juice, with blackberry, strawberry and raspberry purée, mint, apple juice and lemon, which was fresh-tasting and delicious.

Virtuous juice and pancake bliss

The pancakes looked a little small, but that just means they weren't the hugely oversized portion you get in the US. With the bacon (extra crispy, as I asked) and the maple syrup (which was really flavoursome), they were certainly filling enough for me, post-run. BB ordered the Village Breakfast, which also looked great. Again, it was on the restrained size, but everything was exquisitely cooked. Quality is definitely prioritized over quantity at Village East. With a drink each and service, our bill came to £25, which I thought was pretty reasonable--reasonable enough to make this my go-to brunch place in my new hood, certainly. Now I just need to go back to try out their evening meals and puddings.

Village East. 171-173 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3UW (Tube: London Bridge, Borough or Bermondsey). Website.

04 November 2012

Bonfire Saturday SE16-Style

As a November baby, Bonfire Night has always been one of my favourite celebrations. As Papa's birthday was so close, we usually held a big fireworks party at our house, sometimes going down to the bonfire in the village. As London is much more awesome than The Shire, there are always a whole host of fun things to do on November 5 and the closest weekend. On Monday, we are going to see the fireworks display in Southwark Park, but this evening I walked over to Rotherhithe to meet the Bro and the SIL at the Brunel Museum.

Fiery fun at the Midnight Apothecary

A funny place to meet, you might think, but throughout the summer, they have been hosting the Midnight Apothecary on their rooftop gardens, serving cocktails infused with ingredients from the garden. Tonight, they were doing a Bonfire Night special edition. The place was heaving at 8.30, when we got there, but we only had to queue for about ten minutes to buy our cocktails and some sparklers. We then stood amid the mini fires, pumpkins and herbs drinking our drinks. The brief cocktail list left me with a choice between the Hot Buttered Rum (rum, ice cream, brown sugar, maple syrup and allspice) and the Marmalade Martini with popping candy (gin, Campari, lemon juice, marmalade, orange bitters). I knew I would probably like the former more but the popping candy persuaded me to opt for the latter, even though I knew the candy would already have popped. The cocktails weren't huge but at only £5 a pop, not bad value.

Top: The Bro's love; my Bex. Bottom: The SIL & I freestyling; my hearts

We then went on a "tour" of the grand entrance hall of the Thames Tunnel. This was actually just a talk held in the strange, subterranean chamber that used to form the gateway to the first tunnel beneath the river. It was pretty interesting, although the walking tours through the tunnel itself they plan to hold next year during planned engineering works would be more fun. In the meantime, the grand entrance hall is a quirky venue for gigs and other events. Well, the acoustics are great.

Fireworks over the London skyline

Afterwards, we lit our sparklers and tried to write love (the Bro and the SIL) and Bex (moi) quickly enough for my camera to detect, with varying degrees of success. I walked home along the Thames path, snapping a few photos of the London skyline. I was hoping to catch some big fireworks let off over Tower Bridge, but there was only the odd small-scale bang and flash of colour.

03 November 2012

"All This Jumping and Fighting...It's Exhausting"

It's birthday season in the Quisite family right now, and last night we celebrated Papa's at the new Piccadilly Circus branch of Hawksmoor, followed by a trip to the Odeon Leicester Square for a screening of Skyfall. Although the Air Street Hawksmoor had only been open for one day (plus a short soft-launch period), the food was as good as the meal I enjoyed recently at the restaurant's older sister in Spitafields. I had the same steak--medium rare fillet steak with Béarnaise sauce--but managed to find room for the pudding I skipped before: peanut butter shortbread with salted caramel ice cream. It was delicious, the shortbread being more of a soft, peanut butter and chocolate cookie.

Top: Copy-cat cards. Bottom: Peanut butter shortbread;
Hawksmoor Air St, an oasis of cool above Piccadilly Circus

Much hilarity ensued when we discovered that The Bro and I had bought identical birthday cards for Papa. To be fair, colourful stripes are his thing, but even so, of all of the cards for sale in London, it was pretty funny we had both settled on the same one. Dinner and presents completed, we hurried on to Leicester Square, where timid would-be patrons naively asked whether there were tickets available for the 8.30 screening of Skyfall.

I am hardly a Bond expert or devotee. I think I have seen all of the Brosnan Bonds, apart from Goldeneye, as well as the recent Casino Royale and one or maybe two of the older films. I also tend to forget or confuse the plots, remembering only the Bond girls, oddly enough. I hadn't planned to see Skyfall at all, but the rave reviews made me reconsider. And it was good. I wouldn't say that it was an outstanding film, but I enjoyed it a lot and Judi Dench, reprising her role as M, and Javier Bardem as the baddie were both excellent. Bardem in particular, with his constant eye rolls ("all this jumping and fighting...it's exhausting," he complains at one point, as if to ask how many times he has to go to the effort of killing Bond), and stylish psychopathy was funny, as well as evil. Ben Whishaw, playing a spotty, uber-geeky Q, was great too, although his role was quite small. Hopefully, we will see more of him in future Bond movies.

As for the plot, well, it's a Bond film, so that's almost incidental. The opening sequence in Istanbul was impressive and I liked the parts that were set in London too. I was more surprised about the sex, or relative lack thereof. Some flirtations with Eve (Naomie Harris) and a hot shower with Sévérine (Bérénice Marlohe), but the main relationship was between M and Bond. Bearing in mind her maternal rapport with him, the opening credits, which feature Bond sinking through murky waters while Adele powers out the title song, almost made me think of him being in the womb, cushioned and protected and then let go. I made me reading too much into it. And Daniel Craig? I thought he was fine. Bond has always seemed like a cipher to me but that is probably at least partly due to the fact that I've watched so few of the films that I don't know much of his back story and what I do know, I tend to confuse with the similarly orphaned Harry Potter.

I'm not really sure I noticed director Sam Mendes's touch either. Sure, the film was neatly paced and almost justified its 2h15 length, but although this isn't down to him, there was no escaping from the standard formula--the timing and frequency of the action sequences, the cheesy lines ("I like you better without your Beretta"), the casual sexism and so on. Overall, I liked Skyfall. It was entertaining and exciting, although never really surprising. The lack of surprises was not, of course, surprising; you don't go to to see Bond films to be shocked.