What's in My Bag: An August Wedding on the Amalfi Coast

I rarely travel in August, preferring the cooler and somewhat quieter months for the destinations I tend to visit of May, June, September and October. However, I was very excited to receive an invitation to my cousin's wedding, which takes place in Sorrento this week. I've spent a lot of time in Italy, but mainly in Milan, Bologna, Rome and Sardinia, and, despite my love of Neapolitan pizza, I've never been to Naples.

The Caffeine Chronicles: Kaffeine Revisited

This week's instalment of my 'Caffeine Chronicles...Revisited' series shifts a few blocks north from Soho to Fitzrovia for an updated review of Great Titchfield Street's Kaffeine. I first visited Kaffeine back in 2009 when it was a relative spring chicken; now, it has just celebrated its seventh birthday and has a second location, just around the corner on Eastcastle Street. 

A Perfect Peckham Sunday at Frank's and Pedler

On those rare summer Sundays when the sun comes out to play in south-east London, there is one obvious destination: Frank's Café, Peckham's most famous, if not its only, rooftop bar. I've been to Frank's a few times, but only in the evening. At lunchtime on a Sunday, though, Frank's is a lot more relaxed but just as fun.

No matter how many times you have seen the view of London's skyline from the rooftop of the multi-storey car park on Rye Lane, you can't help but stop and gawp as soon as you emerge from the pink-hued staircase. On a clear day like last Sunday, you can see way past The City to the north and beyond Crystal Palace to the south.

The other advantage to going to Frank's earlier in the day is that you can secure a table — even one with a view — and don't have to wait too long in the drinks queue. Our family's dinner reservations weren't until later but boldly, I decided to go for a negroni (£6) and it was perfectly cool, crisp and strong. 

Most of the cocktails are around £6 or £7 and there are also various beers and wines, as well as the British summer staple: Pimm's. We had a few nibbles to keep us going (the spicy hummus was particularly good) and there are a few more substantial dishes too.

After savouring our drinks and the view, we made our way down the pink stairs, down the ever-colourful Rye Lane and onto Peckham Rye. Since it opened almost two years ago, Pedler (CLOSED) has remained one of my favourite restaurants in London. It's the kind of neighbourhood restaurant everyone wishes they had in their own neighbourhood: relaxed, stylish and whimsical, and with great food and drinks, it's a bit like having dinner at a friend's house — if your friend is a fantastic cook with immaculate taste.

This time, our group was big enough that we qualified for the gorgeous, padded teal booth towards the back of the restaurant. On Sunday afternoons, you can opt for brunch or a roast, and although I find to very hard not to order brunch dishes when they are available, I followed the herd and ordered a roast. I had the BBQ baby chicken with cornbread and corn-on-the-cob (£16). 

About half of our party ordered the chicken, and the others went for the roast beef; before long, our table was buried under a small mountain of food. Everything tasted great and embarrassingly, we managed to finish most of it. I tried some of the beef too and it was really, really good. The roasts at Pedler never disappoint, but don't take my word for it — try one for yourself!

It may look as though I'm atoning for my ambitious food order with a healthy juice, but in fact, my drink is a gin cocktail. Pedler is run by the same people as the good folks of Little Bird Gin, and my cocktail, the Sippin' On (£6), combined the house gin with apple, cucumber, mint and lime. It was refreshing, fruity and possibly even somewhat healthy. Possibly.

Although the restaurant was closing, the staff, who are always incredibly friendly and welcoming, let us stay at the table chatting and clutching our full bellies; afterwards, we ventured onto the pavement to drink our coffees before vain attempts to walk off a big but delicious meal. What a great way to spend a Sunday!

Frank's Cafe. 10th floor, Peckham Multi-Storey Car Park, 95a Rye Lane, London, SE15 4ST (Peckham Rye Overground). Website. Instagram.

Pedler. 58 Peckham Rye, London, SE15 4JR (Peckham Rye Overground). CLOSED

The Caffeine Chronicles: Flat White Revisited

My recent revisit to Prufrock encouraged me to seek out my other old favourite London coffee shops, some of which I first mentioned on this blog eight or nine years ago and also featured in my 2009 compilation of my favourite London places. Others made it into my first London coffee guide in 2011. In several cases, I've managed never to post a full review on this blog, however, so I'm filling in those gaps over the next few weeks.

The Caffeine Chronicles: Bar Termini

When Bar Termini opened its doors in late 2014, its concept was very appealing: an all-day venue serving coffee and cocktails in a tiny, classy, Italian-style bar. And with cocktails from Tony '69 Colebrooke Row' Conigliaro and coffee from Illy's head of quality Marco Arrigo, what wasn't to like? But its location — at the eastern end of Old Compton Street, near the junction with Charing Cross Road — wasn't somewhere I walked past very often and I kept forgetting to stop by.

Fortunately, I was in Soho with time to kill on Sunday and I made a beeline for Bar Termini. The storefront is painted a chic navy and there is a bench on the pavement in case you are in the mood for some Soho people-watching. 

Inside, there are only a handful of small tables and a few stools at the bar. The seats are all pistachio leather and dark wood; colourful, vintage-style artwork livens up the walls and if you look carefully enough, you can even spot a few vintage suitcases (the bar's name is a nod to Rome's central train station). The result is a cool, calm and beautiful haven amid the hustle and bustle of Old Compton Street.

The cocktail menu and the cocktails I saw the cheerful, white-apron-clad bar tenders making for other customers looked great but it was too early for an aperitif and I was in need of coffee. Most of the coffee shops I frequent these days are coasting on the third wave, but you won't find any Aeropresses, V60s or flat whites at Bar Termini. 

The coffee menu is simple and focuses on espresso based drinks. I had a couple of espressi (£2.50 each — Romans might baulk at the price, although at least the current exchange rate is in their favour), but there is also, among other drinks, a bicerin on the menu — a sort of small, strong mocha. I used to drink a lot of bicerin in my days as an Italian student, but I'm not sure I would be so keen these days.

Both espressi were exquisitely prepared and came in beautiful espresso cups with Termini's signature 'T' logo. I don't drink espresso very often these days, tending to favour macchiatos, piccolos and filter coffee, and when I do it's usually with a much lighter roast. I still have a soft spot for a good dark Italian roast, though, when I'm in the right frame of mind and Bar Termini's coffees were very good; they use Illy coffee, of course.

Bar Termini also serve a few snacks, sandwiches and some pastries and sweet treats. I was too late for the cornetti but I did have a rather delicious slice of almond and raspberry cake (£3.50). There was a chocolate chip cake too, but the waiter talked me into the almond cake and I think it was the right call.

My next holiday is a one-week trip to Naples and Sorrento and I'm looking forward to returning to Italy. I spent a lot of time there as a child and a student but my visits have tailed off more recently, unless you count brief road trips across the border from Cannes. Although the quality of the coffee can vary, there is something terribly appealing about the Italian espresso bar culture and it will be fun to rediscover it. And if you're looking for Italian-style coffee in London, Bar Termini is an excellent place to start.

Bar Termini. 7 Old Compton Street, London, W1D 5JE (Tube: Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Road). Website. Instagram.

The Caffeine Chronicles: Manchester Specialty Coffee Guide

This week, I spent two days in Manchester — most of it inside a conference centre. But the city soon won me over and, of course, I found a little time to hunt out some specialty coffee. I used my time wisely and managed to visit two coffee shops. I had hoped to go to a third, but Pavé (CLOSED) closed earlier than I was expecting and when I checked my train ticket and realised that I was on an earlier train, I knew I wouldn't have time to go to one of the cafés I'd earmarked near Manchester Piccadilly station.

Etc — July 2016

UPDATE: UPDATE: Coleman Coffee is now permanently closed but you can order online from their Herefordshire-based roastery. 

Coleman Coffee Roasters
My usual Saturday morning routine is quite simple: run along the river with a small group of friends, finishing with a coffee at Monmouth's Bermondsey coffee bar (sometimes followed by a cocktail at Little Bird). However, the Bermondsey Monmouth is closed until 10 September, so we've been exploring a few other coffee options in the area, including Coleman Coffee Roasters, which I used to go to when I first moved to Bermondsey four years ago before Monmouth became the default.

Coleman's Spa Terminus home is in a railway arch they share with The Little Bread Pedlar, who make amazing pastries and cakes. The queue at Coleman can get pretty long — especially with Monmouth closed — but the macchiatos and pourovers are still rather good. You can buy bags of coffee beans too and follow up with a trip to The Kernel, The Ham & Cheese Co or any of the other great Spa Terminus producers.

The Gilded Years by Karin Tanabe

I enjoyed Karin Tanabe's previous novel, The List, about the pleasures and pitfalls of working for a POLITICO-like media outlet and was intrigued by the description of her latest, which sounded rather different. The Gilded Years is based on the true story of Anita Hemmings, who was the first African American to attend Vassar College. The twist is that Anita, who is light-skinned, is attending a white student. 

We meet Anita in her senior year in the closing years of the 19th century where she begins to struggle with the tension between her ambition to continue her education and perhaps pursue a career in academia, and her burgeoning need to be able to be honest and true to her identity and her family. Can she keep her secret until graduation? And does she even want to?

Anita's story is a fascinating and important one — and one I knew nothing about before reading Tanabe's fictionalisation — and The Gilded Years is beautifully written, thought-provoking, sometimes sad but ultimately inspiring.


Seven at Brixton (CLOSED)

My friend and I had hoped to spend a sunny Saturday night at Brixton Beach Boulevard but made the mistake of not booking tickets and so couldn't get in. It wasn't a challenge to make a new plan, however, with both Brixton Market and Pop Brixton just a few minutes' walk away. 

We ended up going to an old favourite of mine, Seven at Brixton, a cocktail and tapas bar in Brixton Market. The cocktails are good and cheap and we shared a delicious (and huge) platter of meat, cheese and other tapas. If Seven is too busy, they now have a sister restaurant, Three Four Eight, on Coldharbour Lane.

The Nice Guys

Unusually for me, I haven't been to the cinema in several months, partly because I've been busy and partly because there haven't been any films that I desperately wanted to see. But I had hoped to catch The Nice Guys and thought I had missed my chance until I discovered there are still a few screenings in London cinemas.

The eponymous 'nice guys' in Shane Black's 1970s-set film are borderline-alcoholic private eye and single dad Holland March (Ryan Gosling) and thug-for-hire with a heart Jackson Healy (Russell Crowe). The unlikely duo team up to investigate the suspicious death of a porn star, tumbling down a rabbit hole of sleaze, corruption and murder. Despite the dark themes, Black keeps the tone light with snappy banter between the two leads and a hefty dose of slapstick comedy. 

The Nice Guys is funny, fun and quirky — and a lot more enjoyable than the recent adaptation of Thomas Pynchon's Inherent Vice, which also involves a troubled private investigator in 1970s LA. The Nice Guys sometimes veers into parody but its tongue is usually firmly in its cheek, and while March and Healy aren't always especially nice, they are charming and make for an entertaining double-act. Angourie Rice, who plays March's tween daughter, puts in a fine performance.


The Fire Child by S.K. Tremayne

S.K. Tremayne's debut, The Ice Twins, posed the intriguing question of what you would do as a parent of twins if one of the twins died but you couldn't be sure which daughter was still alive. It was a fast, twisty read and the same is true of Tremayne's follow-up, The Fire Child. 

In a rather Rebecca-like set-up, Rachel marries the handsome and rich David and comes to live in his crumbling Cornish pile, Carnhallow House, along with David's young son Jamie. Jamie's mother died in tragic but mysterious circumstances the year before but her presence is felt throughout the house, and Jamie himself is — understandably, perhaps — still disturbed by her death.

Rachel wants to be a good wife and mother but she also begins to harbour suspicions about the death of David's first wife — and about whether her seemingly perfect husband is all that he seems. Rachel herself, it soon emerges, has a troubled past of her own and she thought that her whirlwind romance with David was the opportunity to start afresh. 

But are Rachel's past demons responsible for her newfound fears or is there something more sinister going on at Carnhallow House that could threaten her life? The Fire Child is an engrossing read, packed with depictions of the beautiful and dramatic Cornish scenery, and with a cracking twist towards the end — great if you are looking for holiday reading material.

Disclaimer: The Fire Child is out now, published by Harper Collins. I received a pre-release copy via NetGalley. All opinions are my own.