During the UK's four-day Easter weekend, I wanted to visit a new country. Slovakia was top of my list but rather than flying straight to its capital, Bratislava, I chose Vienna instead. There's more to do in the Austrian capital, and Bratislava is just 40 miles away — an easy day trip by train or boat.
I've been to Vienna a few times before but not for more than 25 years! Vienna has changed a lot since then and so have I. I'm no longer vegetarian, for one thing, although these days it's much easier to find good veggie and vegan food than it was in the 1990s!
I spent a day in Bratislava, which left me three full days in Vienna. I stayed in the chic 7th district — a great base for exploring the city's history, culture, architecture and parks. I ate and drank very well too and of course I had to visit a traditional coffee house! Read on to find out what else I got up to.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN VIENNA
Take a guided walk through Vienna's history
I took a fun and informative two-hour guided walking tour with Michael from YouOnTour Vienna. It was a great introduction to Vienna's highlights, like the Rathaus (the very tall city hall!), the Spanish Riding School and the Vienna State Opera.
We learned a lot about Austria's characterful emperors and empresses — it felt like an episode of Keeping Up With the Habsburgs! And if you've ever wondered where the yellow on the Brazilian flag came from, well, it's actually Habsburg yellow. Maria Leopoldina married the first emperor of Brazil and her Habsburg livery left a lasting mark!
We also saw a few hidden gems like the Napoleon-commissioned Last Supper mosaic inside Minoritenkirche.
Continuing my tour of unfinished European cathedrals, I also visited Stephansdom (St Stephen's Cathedral). You can admire the building and colourful roof tiling from the outside, or visit the main nave inside for free.
There are various guided tours of the cathedral, the towers and the catacombs. The latter (€8, cash only) was very interesting, if more than a little eerie!
Meander through a museum (or six)
Vienna has some world-class museums and you're bound to find something up your street, from art to military history to psychoanalysis. If you plan to visit a lot of museums and other attractions, the Vienna Pass is very good value.
I spent an hour at the Sigmund Freud Museum, located in the Berggasse building where Freud lived and worked for over four decades, before fleeing from the Nazis in 1938. The exhibition was a little dry — and most furniture, including Freud's couch, is in London — but the section on Freud's family life was fascinating and the shop is good for gift ideas.
I prefer modern art to Old Masters, but it's hard not to be wowed by the incredible interiors of the Kunst Historisches Museum. I also enjoyed the temporary exhibition of works by Canaletto and Bellotto, and some of the antiquities galleries.
There are many more museums to choose from in the MuseumsQuartier. Or head to the canal to visit the quirky and colourful KunstHausWien, featuring the works of Friedensreich Hundertwasser. Check out the equally vibrant Hundertwasser House while you're in the area. It took me back to Barcelona!
Pick a picturesque palace
Among Vienna's architectural highlights are several beautiful palaces and castles in and around the city centre.
I went to the canary-hued Schloss Schönbrunn to the west of the city centre, which was once the Habsburgs' main summer residence. It was super-busy due to the Easter market and warm weather but I enjoyed strolling in the grounds (it was too sunny to go inside).
The Belvedere, located south of the centre, comprises a pair of beautiful baroque palaces. Don't miss the collection of Gustav Klimt's work. The Hofburg Palace is another grand imperial palace right in the heart of district 1.
Embrace Vienna's high culture
Many of the world's most celebrated musicians — including Mozart, Beethoven and Strauss — lived in Vienna. For many people, attending a performance at the State Opera is a must-do, but as I'm more of a fan of Before Sunrise than Amadeus, I gave this one a miss.
Make the most of Vienna's great outdoors
My walking tour guide Michael told me that Vienna is one of the world's greenest cities with around 1,000 parks — some bigger than others. There are even vineyards to visit on the outskirts of the city!
But back in the centre, Volksgarten is a lovely place to hang out. You can visit the memorial to Austria's most famous empress, Sisi, or wander through the rose gardens. Locals can sponsor a rose (there's a four-year waiting list) and adorn it with a message for a loved one. The roses weren't yet in bloom but I enjoyed reading all the missives.
When the weather's nice, walking along the Donaukanal, maybe stopping for a drink or two at one of the waterside bars, is a very pleasant way to spend an afternoon. You can also take a sightseeing cruise along the canal.
Chic shopping in the 7th district
One of the reasons I loved my hotel is that it was in the heart of Vienna's creative 7th district. There are so many independent stores on and around Siebensterngasse, Burggasse and Neubaugasse. Just don't go on a Sunday, when most are closed.
Take a day trip to Slovakia
I almost took a day trip to the Slovak capital Bratislava when I was in Budapest but didn't have enough time. It's even easier from Vienna. The train takes about an hour and costs €19 return. If it's a nice day, you can travel by boat along the Danube!
I spent six hours in Bratislava, which was enough time to visit the medieval castle, explore the pretty old town, walk along the Danube, visit a few specialty coffee shops, eat a delicious lunch and sample an inventive cocktail at the world's 25th best bar.
Stay tuned for a separate post with my full guide to spending a day in Bratislava.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
I started my long weekend with a Michelin-starred tasting menu and finished it with a hot dog in a carpark. It was the best of times, it was the würst of times... (Sorry!) In all seriousness, I had many great meals during my trip: fine dining, street food and everything in between.
Restaurants and bars
Restaurant Herzig. I had an exquisite tasting menu at Sören Herzig's titular Michelin-starred restaurant in the 15th district. Every dish was a delight for the senses and beautifully presented, from the langoustine and carrot 'daisy' to the red fruit pudding, frozen to –180C. The service was exceptional and it was a wonderful way to spend my first night in Vienna.
Tante Liesl. When in Vienna, sampling the Wiener schnitzel — pan-fried breaded veal cutlet — is a must (unless you're a vegetarian, of course!) and Tante Liesl was a great place to try it. Cosy and as popular with locals as tourists, the food was delicious and the portions huge.
Rosi. If you are looking for a laid-back, post-Schönbrunn brunch, Rosi is the place to go! Their weekend brunch club lets you sample many dishes, most of the veggie. I was on my lonesome but the leek dish I tried was delicious. It's a very friendly and welcoming eatery too; plus the 1980s soundtrack was right up my street.
Truth and Dare. Regarded as Vienna's top cocktail bar, Truth and Dare is a cool but intimate haven of mixology. My cocktail featured mezcal, chartreuse, pineapple, wasabi and arugula — it was nose-tinglingly good! There are (slightly) less daring options if you're more of a cocktail traditionalist.
Light bites and sweet treats
Vienna's UNESCO-recognised sausage stands are worth a visit whether you want a quick snack or just to experience some local culture.
- Extra Würstel offers a modern take, with fusion dishes like the Banh Wü and the Kimchi Bosna. I went for the Käsekrainer: sausage oozing with cheese, served with sourdough bread.
- At Wiener Würstelstand, I stayed classic with the hot dog with mayo, mustard, sauerkraut and crisps. Sehr gut!
Brioche und Brösel. My first schnitzel in Vienna was actually a Wiener schnitzel burger at Brioche und Brösel, a food stand in the city centre, which was recommended by my hotel. It was very tasty and kept me going throughout my walking tour.
Öfferl. A high-end bakery with several branches throughout the city, Öfferl is a good place to pick up a pastry, cake or sandwich.
Crème de la Crème. A wonderful patisserie that truly lives up to its name! The selection of cakes and other goodies during Easter was particularly good. My chocolate-mousse-filled bunny didn't last long!
Motto Brot. Small bakery on Mariahilferstraße with delicious breads, pastries, cakes and other baked goods.
Demel. Although I visited a lot of specialty coffee shops, I also visited a more traditional coffee house. Demel has been serving coffee and cakes for over 300 years! My melange (like a cortado) was pretty tasty, and the Sachertorte (chocolate cake with apricot jam) was even better. Sitting in Demel's elegant first-floor cafe was a great experience.
WHEN TO GO
Vienna can get really hot in July and August, with temperatures often hitting the 25–30C. Christmas markets, ice rinks and other festive fun mean Vienna is also popular during winter. Spring and autumn offer a good compromise with often decent weather but fewer crowds and prices.
I travelled in early April and saw temperatures range from 8C one evening to 25C on a particularly sunny afternoon! Packing in layers was particularly important. As Vienna is located between two climate zones, it can also be very windy, so you may want to bring a scarf or light jacket even in warmer months.
My visit was during the Easter weekend and the Easter eggs (Ostereier), chocolate bunnies and tulips were out in full force! I loved visiting the Easter markets, but note that many shops and some smaller restaurants and eateries close over the Easter weekend.
WHERE TO STAY
I stayed in Neubau, the cool 7th district, and would highly recommend the neighbourhood for a laid-back city break. The main attractions are 10 to 15 minutes' walk (or even shorter bus / tram / U-Bahn ride) but you're out of the hustle and bustle, with countless chic boutiques, restaurants and bars right on your doorstep.
I had a wonderful stay at Hotel Altstadt, located in an elegant townhouse right in the heart of Neubau. The rooms have all been individually designed by artists and designers, many of them local. Mine was the work of Arthur Arbesser. Indeed, walking down the hallway to my room felt like walking through a gorgeous modern art gallery!
My room itself was spacious, colourful and very comfortable. The welcoming staff, who truly made me feel like I was at home, left little treats on my pillow each night, from candies to flower seeds to plant at home. The staff members all provide their local recommendations on the website, which was a great resource.
I paid about £180 per night for a medium room, including breakfast and tea time in the chic salon. Breakfast featured a well-stocked buffet and a daily-changing hot dish (the eggs Benedict was particularly good), while stopping by in the afternoon for a slice of cake was a great way to unwind after a busy day of touristing.
Explore and book other accommodation options in Vienna using this map. Add your travel dates to see updated price information.
GETTING THERE
Vienna International Airport is located about 12 miles southeast of the city centre. The fastest way to go into the city is via the City Airport Train (CAT), which takes 16 minutes to reach Wien Mitte station. It costs €14.90 one-way or €24.90 return (a little cheaper online) and runs every 30 minutes.
Alternatively, you can take the S7 S-Bahn train, which gets you to Wien Mitte in about 23 minutes. It also runs every 30 minutes and costs €5.40 one way (including onward travel to your final destination by U-Bahn (metro), S-Bahn, tram or bus).
The travel gods were on my side for once: I stepped off my plane at 10:05 am, sped through security, hopped on the S7 and U3 and reached my 7th district hotel by 10:55!
GETTING AROUND
Vienna has an excellent public transport network with trams (Straßenbahn), buses, metros (U-Bahn) and trains (S-Bahn) to get you wherever you need to go. Vienna is a very walkable city and if you're staying centrally, you may not need to use much transport while you're there.
Single tickets cost €3 and you can usually buy a ticket at stations and on board buses/trams. Paper tickets usually need to be validated at one of the on-board machines. I'd read that not all buses and trams had card payment readers so I downloaded the Wien Mobil app, which lets you buy digital tickets.
You can buy a 24-hour pass for €9.70 or a 7-day pass for €25.20, but as I walked almost everywhere, these weren't worth it for me. These passes aren't valid on the CAT and you'll need to buy an extension ticket to use them on the S7 to the airport.
Depending on your itinerary, the Vienna City Card could be a convenient and good-value option. It includes unlimited transport for 24/48/72 hours or 7 days, as well as over 200 discounts within Vienna.
NEED TO KNOW
For packing tips for Vienna, check out my recommendations of tried-and-tested products for travel. For this trip, I one-bagged using my Osprey Daylite 26+6 Expandable Travel Pack, which easily fitted under my BA airplane seat.
Electricity
As with many European countries, Austria uses round, two-pronged ‘type F’ plugs.
Language
The official language of Austria is German. Many people in Vienna understand and speak some English, especially within tourism and hospitality. Learning a few basic Austrian German phrases is definitely helpful, though, and always appreciated:
- Servus — hello/goodbye (a more casual greeting; the word derives from the Latin for servant or slave, just like ciao in Italian!)
- Guten Morgen (often shortened to moagn) — good morning
- Bitte — please
- Danke (schön) — thank you (very much)
- Ja — yes
- Nein — no
Money
Austria's currency is the Euro (at the time of my visit, 1 GBP was worth €1.15 and 1 USD was worth €0.86). Cash is still widely used throughout Vienna, but I could pay by card or contactless almost everywhere.
The cathedral catacombs tour and the Schönbrunn market were the only places I needed to use cash. I also left cash tips in a few eateries, although most restaurants and bars let you add a tip via the card payment machine.
Opening hours
Shops usually open from 9 am until 6:30 pm on weekdays, and until 5 or 6 pm on Saturdays. Most shops, including stores, are closed on Sundays so stock up in advance! Almost all of them were also closed on Easter Monday.
Most museums open daily, but some, including the Kunst Historisches Museum, close on Mondays. If there are any museums you particularly want to visit, it's worth checking the opening hours in advance and planning accordingly.
Time zone
Austria is on Central European Time, one hour ahead of the UK and six hours ahead of US Eastern Time.
Water
The Viennese are very proud of their tap water and rightly so! It flows straight down from the Alps into the city and tastes great. There are lots of drinking fountains throughout the city although it might take you a few moments (and a splash or two!) to get the hang of the pump mechanism.
Wifi/mobile data
I stayed connected during my trip using an Airalo eSIM. As I was visiting Austria and Slovakia, I paid a little more (£7.50) for a 3GB Europe eSIM that worked in both countries. I had great signal (5G) throughout, although I was obviously Instagramming too much as I needed to top up with an extra 1GB on my final day.
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