With its Renaissance-style castle, picturesque Old Town and sweeping views of the Danube, Bratislava has a lot to offer, even if you're only visiting for the day. The Slovakian capital is the only world capital bordering two other sovereign states (Austria and Hungary) and it makes for an easy day trip from Vienna, which is what I did.
Located in the heart of Central Europe, Bratislava has been the capital of Slovakia since 1993. I've been trying to visit for years: my mum and I almost took a side trip from Budapest but as the fastest trains take 2h30 each way, it would have been a long day.
I also looked into flights to Bratislava in April this year, but it was cheaper (and better) to fly to Vienna, base myself there and take a day trip to the Slovakian capital instead.
How to get to Bratislava from Vienna
Vienna is only 40 miles west of Bratislava and it's a fast and easy journey by boat, train or car.
Cruising by boat along the Danube is a very pleasant way to travel, but can be pricey. You can book an organised tour (which includes 6 hours of free time in Bratislava) or book direct with Twin City Liner.
As the weather wasn't great, I decided to go by train, which was also cheaper (€19 return, including free public transport in Bratislava). I booked on the ÖBB website — select the multi-day ticket option when you pay. You can also buy tickets from the machines or ticket desks at Wien Hauptbahnhof (Vienna Central Station).
My ticket didn't include seat reservations and because it was a holiday weekend, the train was packed even though I arrived 15 minutes early. Luckily, I found a seat in an empty compartment near the front.
The journey took just under an hour — the Slovakian border isn't marked but I was watching Google Maps to see when I'd entered a new country!
If you prefer to travel by road, various guided tours by coach are also available.
Getting around
Bratislava's city centre is compact and walkable, albeit with lots of cobbled streets. It's about a 15–20 minute walk from the train station to the city centre. There are lots of local bus routes, which came in handy when I decided to skip the steep walk up the hill to Bratislava Castle.
My train ticket from Vienna included one day of public transport in Bratislava. I didn't need to show my ticket on the bus but inspectors regularly emerge to carry out checks so make sure you have a valid ticket at all times.
There is also an electric hop-on hop-off bus tour, which goes up the hill to the castle!
What to do in Bratislava
Bratislava has more than enough history, museums and other attractions to keep most visitors busy for a full day of sightseeing. Highlights include: Bratislava Castle, the pretty Old Town (Staré Mesto), with its Gothic churches and pastel hues and a stroll along the Danube, maybe heading to the top of the UFO Tower for incredible views.
If you have more time in Bratislava and want to spend the night, I'd recommend choosing a hotel in or around the Old Town, like the gorgeous Marrol's Boutique Hotel, where you'll be right in the heart of the action and within a short stroll of all the main sights.
Bratislava: my 1-day itinerary
9:00 — Head to Vienna Hauptbahnhof
ÖBB trains run regularly to Bratislava from Vienna's Hauptbahnhof (Central Station — actually located to the south of the city centre). To make the most of your day in Bratislava, I recommend taking an early train: I took the 9:14 am train from Vienna, which got me to Bratislava for 10:10.
10:15 — A sip of history
From the train station, it's a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride into the city centre. (If you arrive by boat, the dock is in the Old Town, near the SNP Bridge.)
I was definitely in need of coffee and stopped by two of the specialty coffee shops I'd identified. I'll be writing more about Bratislava coffee in a separate guide, but in the meantime, Baryk, Velikán and Liv a Little are all great options in this area.
Slovakia is a relatively young country, gaining independence in 1993, after centuries as part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire followed by the turbulence of the 20th century. Some of this recent history is etched in the buildings and monuments on the way to the Old Town, including Freedom Square (Námestie Slobody) and the Slovak Radio Building.
11:00 — Visit Bratislava Castle
Bratislava Castle dates back to the 9th century but was rebuilt into a Renaissance-style castle by Ferdinand I in the 16th century. Perched on a hill above the city, the castle offers a great vantage point, but this means it is a steep climb to the top. You can save time (and your legs!) by taking a public bus or bus tour to the top.
It's free to walk around the castle grounds — and take in the views of the Danube. But I paid to go inside the castle, where there were several interesting exhibitions on art, architecture and history, as well as gorgeous décor. I climbed one of the towers, which had great views, although the steps are steep and a bit precarious!
Afterwards, I explored the grounds, where there was a fun Medieval market taking place. The gardens were a little less impressive, as the spring flowers weren't yet in bloom.
12:00 — A refined lunch
Bratislava has some impressive fine dining options. Many people recommended Irin, but it doesn't open for lunch. Instead, I went to Bistronomy, a modern bistro near the castle. They do a tasting menu in the evenings and a good-value à la carte lunch menu.
I had the excellent pork back with bok choy and roasted carrots, followed by lemon cake. The food, served by friendly wait staff, was delicious and beautifully presented.
If you have a head for heights, you may enjoy UFO, the restaurant in the UFO Observation Tower, 95 metres above the Danube. As they put it on their website, "Would you leave Paris without a view from the Eiffel Tower?" (I settled for a photo of the UFO from the castle instead.)
13:30 — Explore the Old Town
After my big lunch, it was time for a stroll through the Staré Mesto. There are some beautiful buildings, including the Gothic St Martin's Cathedral and the Church of St Elizabeth (known, for reasons that will become obvious, as the Blue Church).
Michael's Gate (Michalská Brána) is the only one of Bratislava's Medieval city gates that has been preserved. It dates to about 1300 and you can climb up the tower for a bird's-eye view of the Old Town.
15:00 — Take a trip on the Danube
If you didn't travel to Bratislava on the Danube, now is your opportunity. Various companies run 45-minute panoramic cruises that offer delightful views of the city, castle, river and surrounding countryside.
Unfortunately, the weather wasn't playing ball for me so instead, I decided to visit two more specialty coffee shops (Ost Block and Black, both excellent) and then checked out some of Bratislava's modern architecture and street art. The City History Museum is another good rainy-day activity.
There are, of course, many souvenir shops in the Old Town, most selling variations on a theme. But I really liked the design-oriented jewellery, homewares and clothes at Place Store and the locally made products at Úlúv.
16:00 — Sip a world-class cocktail at Mirror Bar
Bratislava doesn't have a Michelin-starred restaurant but it does have the world's 25th best bar! Mirror Bar is located inside the historic Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel, and the creativity, mixology and service are all impeccable.
17:15 — Dovidenia, Slovensko!
On the Easter Saturday I visited, direct trains back to Vienna were only running every hour. As the train had been so busy on the way, I assumed it would be on the way back too and got to the station about 15 minutes early. Luckily, they announced the platform just as I got there and I was able to get a seat.
I realised too late, but my train also stopped at Stadlau, just east of central Vienna. Stadlau is also on the U2 U-Bahn and would have got me back to my hotel in the 7th district more quickly. As it was, I took a tram back from Hauptbahnhof, although it wasn't much faster than walking.
BRATISLAVA AT A GLANCE
Location: Bratislava is in western Slovakia, about 40 miles east of Vienna (Austria) and 125 miles northwest of Budapest (Hungary).
Population: 445,000.
Language: Slovak, a Slavic language in the Czech–Slovak group. Many people working in tourism and hospitality speak some English, but it's appreciated if you can learn a few Slovak words or phrases, like ahoj (ah-hoy) — hello, prosím (PROH-seem) — please, ďakujem (DYA-koo-yem) — thank you.
Electricity: Slovakia uses round, two-pronged ‘type E’ plugs.
Entry requirements: Slovakia is in the Schengen Area and you don't usually need to show your passport when travelling from another Schengen country. As a British citizen, I went through passport control on entering Austria and didn't need to show my passport in Slovakia, but I brought it with me (securely). Check Slovakia's entry requirements for your country well in advance of your trip.
Money: Slovakia's currency is the Euro (at the time of my visit, 1 GBP was worth €1.15 and 1 USD was worth €0.86). I paid by credit card or contactless throughout my stay in Bratislava, but I kept a few Euros in my wallet just in case.
Time zone: Slovakia is on Central European Time, one hour ahead of the UK and six hours ahead of US Eastern Time.
Wifi/mobile data: I've long been a fan of using eSIMs to access mobile data when I travel. As I was visiting both Austria and Slovakia on this trip, I bought an Airalo Europe eSIM that worked in both countries. It cost a little more than a single-country eSIM (£7.50 for 3GB) but was worth it for the convenience of staying connected throughout.
Want to try Airalo on your next trip? Sign up using my referral code — REBECC3024 — and we both get $3 Airalo credit
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