I needed to take my two-week holiday in September this year, which isn't the best time weather-wise for a many countries on my travel wishlist in Central America and Southeast Asia. But September falls between Sri Lanka's two monsoon seasons and it's one of the best times of year to visit the whole island. And as it's not peak tourist season, you'll find that the main sights are a little quieter and hotels often cheaper.
The teardrop-shaped island is relatively small and it's easy to travel around most locations by train, bus and/or taxi. There are some internal flights but they're few and far between and expensive. Although you can't see the entire country on a two-week trip, if you focus on a few regions, like the central highlands and the south/southwest coast, you can get a real taste for Sri Lanka.
As I usual, I was travelling by myself and Sri Lanka is a great country for solo female travellers. I felt very safe throughout my trip (of course, taking all of the usual safety precautions when I travel anywhere) and it's easy to get around. The only slight negative was that there are almost no small-group day tours or shared transfers available. I like to take these when I travel, partly because they're cheaper and partly because it's a good way of meeting people. Instead, I spent a lot of time talking to my taxi drivers — and other tourists I met on the trains.
For more detailed information about the destinations featured in this guide, check out my other Sri Lanka blog posts: The Cultural Triangle, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and tea country, Galle and the south coast, Colombo and Sri Lanka specialty coffee guide.
PLANNING
I started researching my two-week Sri Lanka itinerary in June, about three months before my trip. I booked my international flights and then set about narrowing down the Sri Lankan destinations I wanted to visit and how to travel between them.
Because of the timings of my flights, I ended up with 15 days in Sri Lanka. On two-week holidays, I usually try to stay in three or four locations for three to four days so I'm not constantly moving from place to place. This proved trickier in Sri Lanka where, even after choosing to spend my time in the centre and southwest of the island, there were still more places I wanted to visit than I had time available. On the other hand, as I was travelling by car and train, my journey times weren't too long and or tiring.
Of Sri Lanka's two ancient cities, I decided to skip Anuradhapura this time in favour of Polonnaruwa, which is closer to the other sights in the Cultural Triangle, where I spent three nights. This also meant skipping Wilpattu National Park in the northwest, which is particularly good for leopard sightings, but is further afield than some of the other national parks I ended up visiting.
I then travelled to Kandy, where I spent three nights, before journeying through tea country to Nuwara Eliya, and then onto Ella for three days of hiking. I didn't want to book too much beach time in case the weather wasn't great, I chose to spend just two nights on the south coast at a beautiful beach resort in Koggala, and then one night in historic Galle Fort. This left me with one night and one (very!) full day in Colombo before flying home.
My Sri Lanka itinerary
Cultural Triangle — 3 nights
Taxi to Kandy
Kandy — 3 nights
Tuk tuk to Nuwara Eliya
Nuwara Eliya — 1 night
Train to Ella
Ella — 3 nights
Taxi to Koggala (via a visit to Yala National Park)
Koggala — 2 nights
Tuk tuk to Galle
Galle — 1 night
Train to Colombo
Colombo — 1 night
This itinerary gave me a good mix of culture, history, hikes and nature, city exploration and beach time. The first week was packed full of big-ticket experiences: the ancient city of Polonnaruwa, climbing Sigiriya Rock, an elephant safari at Minneriya and temples in Kandy. Towards the end, I had more time to relax although I did also feel like I was unpacking and repacking quite often. The only change I might have made would be to drop Nuwara Eliya and go straight from Kandy to Ella, but I also rather enjoyed my stay in 'Little England'.
I travelled in a clockwise direction, starting and ending in Colombo. You can also do the same itinerary in an anti-clockwise direction, travelling from Colombo to Galle, along the south coast, north to Ella, and so on. But I preferred to have my beach and relaxation time closer to the end of my trip. Indeed, there were so many big experiences in Kandy and Cultural Triangle that I think it would have been overwhelming to finish my trip with them.
DETAILED 2-WEEK SRI LANKA ITINERARY
Days 1–3: Cultural Triangle
I landed at Colombo's Bandaranaike International Airport at 4:30 pm on a Saturday afternoon. E-visas weren't available (there's been a lot of change — and likely more to come (including the promise of visa-free travel for more countries), so check out the official government website for the latest information) so I paid for my visa on arrival and headed through to collect my baggage. I pre-booked a taxi with Less Taxi (about £45), which came with a free 30 GB eSIM card. We were on the road about 5:30 pm, and it took just over three hours to drive to Habarana, with a stop for hoppers at a roadside eatery.
I stayed three nights at Levona Garden Resort, a wonderful family-run guesthouse in Habarana. My room (about £28 per night, including breakfast) was comfortable and quiet, set amid attractive gardens and with a small pool. The family that run the guesthouse gave me such a warm welcome and couldn't do enough for me. I highly recommend Levona Garden Resort if you're looking for a lovely and exceptionally good value place to stay in the Cultural Triangle.
I used Habarana as a base to explore the many other attractions nearby. On my first full day, I hired a driver, who took me to the ancient city of Polonnaruwa in the morning and then to Sigiriya Rock in the afternoon. I climbed the latter in the late afternoon, when it was slightly cooler, and enjoyed an incredible sunset from the top of the rock.
The next day, I spent the morning relaxing by the pool and by Habarana Lake, before taking a jeep safari in Minneriya National Park, where I saw over 120 elephants. If you're in the region between July and September, don't miss the opportunity to see the biggest gathering of Asian elephants in the world! I paid about £60 for the jeep/driver and national park entry fee, but you can have up to six people in one jeep so it will definitely be cheaper per person if you're not travelling solo.
On my final day, I got up super-early to climb Pidurangala Rock for sunrise. I'm not normally an early-morning person but this hike was well worth the early start! I'd hired a driver to take me from Habarana to Kandy, with stops at Pidurangala, as well as the Dambulla Cave Temples and various other points of interest. The journey took about 2.5 hours (without the stops) and cost about £38.
Days 4–6: Kandy
I arrived in Kandy just after lunch, and checked straight into my hotel, the beautiful Amaya Hills, perched in the hills above Kandy. I paid about £75 per night for a premium deluxe room, which had fantastic views of the Kandy countryside, especially at sunset. The large infinity pool and spa were also superb, and the included breakfast and dinners I enjoyed at the hotel were very special.
Days 6–7: Nuwara Eliya
I originally planned to take the train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya — part of one of the world's most scenic rail journeys — but I decided instead to travel by tuk tuk so I could stop to take photos and visit Ramboda Waterfall and Bluefield Tea Factory on the way (I highly recommend both). I paid about £28 for the tuk tuk transfer and it took about four hours, including the various stops.
With only 24 hours in Nuwara Eliya before my train to Ella the following day, I headed out soon after checking into my guesthouse, the Trevene Hotel. The Trevene is located in a 150-year-old former tea bungalow and my room was very cosy, especially after the manager lit a fire in my fireplace by night! I paid about £40, including breakfast.
Appropriately enough, it started raining as soon as I arrived in the quirky town nicknamed 'Little England' but I didn't mind cooling off after the heat of Kandy and the Cultural Triangle. I spent my time walking around Lake Gregory and in Victoria Park, checking out the iconic red-brick post office and climbing up Single Tree Hill.
Days 8–10: Ella
The train ride from Kandy to Ella — and particularly the section from Nanu Oya (near Nuwara Eliya) to Ella — is regarded as one of the most scenic in the world. I wrote about my experience of the three-ish-hour journey from Nanu Oya to Ella (including how to get tickets) in this blog post. It was an incredible experience and a real 'must' for any visit to Sri Lanka.
In Ella, I finally found where all the European tourists had been hanging out! There isn't much to the town, just a single main street with lots of tourist-friendly eateries and shops, but the surrounding area is absolutely stunning and there are so many great walks and hikes to take, as well as waterfalls and tea plantations to visit.
I stayed at Zion View Ella Green Retreat, a small resort in the hillside looking directly onto Ella Rock. I paid about £83 for a mountain view double room (including breakfast). And what a view it was from my large private balcony! The infinity pool, spa and restaurant were excellent too.
On my first afternoon, I walked along the train tracks to Nine Arch Bridge for some train spotting fun. The next day, I got up early — but not sunrise early — for an accessible hike to Little Adam's Peak. After taking in the superb panoramic views of Ella Rock and the verdant countryside, I returned to Nine Arch Bridge and then walked back to town.
In the afternoon, I hired a tuk tuk to Diyaluma Falls, one of my favourite experiences of the whole trip! You can read a lot more about it in this blog post, but if you like the sound of swimming and relaxing in what is essentially a natural water park, you'll definitely enjoy Diyaluma.
On my final day, I hiked up Ella Rock in the morning. Despite the heat and a few navigational challenges (I recommend hiring a guide or using a good trail map app), the hike was very rewarding. I'm running out of adjectives to describe the views at the top, but let's just say that they were "not bad." ;)
Days 11–12: Koggala
From Ella, I travelled to Sri Lanka's south coast by taxi, booking a transfer with Less Taxi, which cost about £58. I also paid about £70 total for a three-hour safari at Yala National Park on the way. NB, the safari jeeps seat up to six people, so it will be a bit cheaper per person if you aren't travelling solo. Although I didn't see any of the elusive leopards (sob!), I saw a whole host of animals and birds, from elephants, crocodiles, buffalo and boar, to eagles and pelicans.
We stopped for lunch on the beach in surf town Mirissa, before driving on to my hotel in Koggala. The Fortress Resort & Spa is one of the loveliest hotels I've ever stayed in! I splashed out (excuse the pun) on the Beach Splash room (£180 per night, including breakfast), which had its own private indoor pool.
I'd worried about the September weather but although the sea was too rough for swimming, it was mostly hot and sunny and I spent a lot of time lounging by and swimming in the 50-metre infinity pool on the beach. The staff provided exceptional, warm service, and the food and drink, spa and other facilities were superb. It was the perfect place for a splurge — and to encourage myself to actually just spend some time relaxing, for once! But I did make a visit to the Martin Wickramasinghe Folk Museum, which was just across the road.
Days 13–14: Galle
The city of Galle, with its historic, UNESCO-listed Old Town, is 30 minutes from Koggala by tuk tuk. I stayed at Mango House, a lovely boutique hotel located in a former cinnamon factory. I paid about £70 (including breakfast) for my superior double room, which had a balcony overlooking the Old Town.
I had 24 hours in Galle, which was enough to explore the Old Town, taking an interesting walking tour, checking out the lighthouse and other historic architecture, watching the cricket (!) and finding the perfect rooftop bar for a sunset cocktail (or two). Galle also has some lovely shops — if you're limited on time and/or suitcase space, make sure you check out Barefoot. Its colourful homewares and handwoven clothes make great gifts — and gifts to self!
Day 15: Colombo
I took the train from Galle to Colombo Fort, which took about 2.5 hours and cost all of £1.30. Most trains on this route can't be reserved but I bought a ticket on the day and managed to nab a window seat in my second-class carriage.
In Colombo, I stayed at the Zest Metropole Hotel in the Fort neighbourhood, near the train station and the Dutch Hospital. My deluxe double room cost about £50 (no breakfast) and was modern and well-appointed. As I had a full day in Colombo before travelling to the airport at almost midnight, I did wish I'd booked a hotel with a pool, like the Galle Face Hotel, the Shangri-La, the Cinnamon Red or the Jetwing Colombo Seven.
I woke up early to make the most of my only full day in Colombo. I took an excellent walking tour with Harold from Colombo Walks, learning about the history of Colombo and Sri Lanka and visiting the main sights in the Fort and Pettah market districts. I then explored Cinnamon Gardens, visiting the Town Hall and Independence Square. After taking in specialty coffee and brunch and stopping by Good Market, I made a trip to the flagship store of Barefoot, managing to squeeze a few final gorgeous gifts and souvenirs into my backpack.
When I started to flag from the Colombo heat — and an action-packed two weeks — I bought a day pass for the pool, spa and fitness centre at the Shangri-La, and spent a few hours cooling down and chilling out by the pool before getting dinner and eventually taking an Uber to the airport (about £10 — but Uber has discounted rates takes a big cut, so I tipped my driver some of my remaining rupees in cash).
GETTING TO SRI LANKA
At the time I visited, in September 2024, Sri Lanka's former e-visa scheme had been cancelled, which meant I had to queue to get a visa on arrival when I landed. I only had to wait about 15–20 minutes — it was quicker to pay the fee ($50) in cash in US dollars. However, there have been more changes since then — as of November 2024, you can apply online for an 'electronic travel authorisation' — and likely more to come (visa-free travel for more countries has been promised but not implemented). Check out the Sri Lanka Department of Immigration and Emigration website for the latest information, and consult your own country's embassy or consulate for guidance.
I booked return flights from London Heathrow to Colombo with a stop in Doha in both directions with British Airways, with which I have Silver status. I paid about £900, including an upgrade to World Traveller Plus (premium economy) on my final Doha–London flight, which was BA-operated.
The other three flights were operated by Qatar Airways, and I was able to reserve extra-legroom window seats on two of them for free. I also got to enjoy the Gold Qatar lounges at Heathrow and Doha (and the OK Araliya lounge at Colombo), because of my One World status. The flights from London to Colombo were great — I got some sleep on the first overnight flight, and both were pretty comfortable and timely.
The return journey wasn't so good. First, my flight home wasn't until after 3 am, which meant a really long day in Colombo and trying to stay awake in the airport lounge. My connection in Doha was already tight and because of a delay, I ended up missing my flight to London. Unfortunately, there were no BA flights available and Qatar doesn't have a premium economy equivalent, which meant I arrived home late and grumpy. I hadn't slept on the flight from Colombo as I was worried about the connection and then ended up getting stuck at the back of the plane on my new flight home. I'm still waiting for compensation for the downgrade...fingers crossed.
TRAVEL WITHIN SRI LANKA
As I mentioned above, there are very few internal flights in Sri Lanka, so the best ways to travel around the country are by train, bus and taxi. I took a combination of trains and taxis. The train journeys from Nanu Oya to Ella and Galle to Colombo were both cheap (especially the latter) and incredibly enjoyable. Check out my blog posts or The Man in Seat 61's guide for more information.
When getting quotes for intercity taxi transfers online, I often found high prices (which soon up for a solo traveller), as these one-way fares often take into account that the driver also needs to return to their home city. Less Taxi avoids this issue and offers more affordable fares, convenient booking through their website, great communication by their WhatsApp team, secure online payment and friendly, safe drivers, who speak good English. I used them a couple of times and even got a free 30 GB eSIM card with my airport transfer.
For other transfers, I booked with drivers whom I'd used for shorter trips during my stay and with whom I'd had a positive experience. If you have a good experience with a local taxi or tuk tuk driver, you may well want to hire them for a longer transfer too. You certainly won't be short of offers, but I definitely found that I had the best experiences with tuk tuks I'd booked through my hotels, even if the prices weren't the absolute cheapest.
I also used tuk tuks to get around in bigger cities, like Kandy, Galle and Colombo. Tuk tuks are ubiquitous throughout the country — the hardsell in Kandy, in particular, was hard. You can also use Uber and PickMe (a local app) in Kandy and Colombo, which gives you the security of knowing the price and being able to pay online. Fares are a lot cheaper — but note that Uber and PickMe take a big cut, and that some drivers may cancel a ride if you can't or don't want to pay cash.
NEED TO KNOW
For packing tips, check out my Sri Lanka packing guide or my recommendations of tried-and-tested products for travel.
Electricity
Language
Money
Time zone
Weather & when to visit
Wifi/mobile data
