After spending three days exploring Kandy's culture and history, it was time to travel to my next destination: Nuwara Eliya. Pronounced nuhr-elly-ah, Nuwara Eliya is nicknamed 'Little England' on account of its colonial architecture and verdant landscapes. Oh yes, and the rain. I'd only been in the sleepy hill country town for about 20 minutes before the drizzle started, sending me searching for my rain jacket for the first time of the trip. I only spent 24 hours in Nuwara Eliya, en route to Ella, but despite the chill, I soon warmed to the small but quirky town. Read on to find out what I got up to.
THINGS TO DO IN NUWARA ELIYA
Check out the red-brick post office
Perhaps the most iconic of Nuwara Eliya's historic British buildings is the red-brick, Tudor-style post office (pictured above), which was built in 1894. It's still a working post office and indeed, I popped inside to buy some stamps. As I was there during the 2024 Presidential Election, it also served as a polling station and I was able to take a peek inside.
Relax in Victoria Park and by Lake Gregory
Victoria Park in Hackney is one of my favourite London parks and it was nice to visit its Sri Lankan counterpart. Tickets cost 600 LKR (£1.50) and there are some lovely flower gardens and interesting fountains and trees, including the 100-year-old Peace Tree.
Nearby, you can also visit Lake Gregory (600 LKR to get down to the lakefront), taking a walk or perhaps a boat ride. It was pretty windy and rainy during my visit so I just had a little wander, watching the herons and stopping for strawberries at the yellow Adma Agro strawberry ship. Thankfully, the rain stopped and the sky eventually cleared.
Go for a horse ride — or a round of golf
In Nuwara Eliya you are probably more likely to be run into by a horse than a tuk tuk! Well, in any case, there are a fair number of horses wandering around the streets and fields, which surprised me until I spotted the (somewhat overgrown) race course and the stables near the lake. Some of the equine beauties had even worked out how to use the zebra crossing, despite their lack of stripes. There are plenty of people offering short rides near the lake. And if golf is more your cup of tee (groan!), Nuwara Eliya is the best place to get in a round while in Sri Lanka.
Take a hike
I had one free morning in Nuwara Eliya and originally planned to visit Lover's Leap waterfall, a few miles east of the town centre. It's also very close to Pedro Tea Estate, which offers tours and scenic views of its tea plantations, so you can easily visit them together. Unfortunately, the rain was threatening to return. If you have more time and don't mind the early start, a half-day trip to Horton Plains National Park is highly recommended.
Instead, I climbed Single Tree Hill, which is closer to town. I walked up through some more of the Pedro plantations but less than 10 minutes from the top, I got caught in a massive downpour and had to retreat to my guesthouse. Alas!
Have a splashing time at Ramboda Waterfall
On my tuk tuk journey from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya, my first stop was Ramboda Waterfall, which is the 11th highest waterfall in Sri Lanka (don't ya know?!), standing at just over 100 metres. My tuk tuk driver dropped me at the bridge near the base of the falls and I then paid about 300 LKR (£0.80) to enter the site. It took me about 15 minutes to climb to the viewpoint near the top.
The route is quite steep — some steps, some parts are more of a rocky path — and I'd recommend wearing waterproof sandals with a very good grip. The view from the top is well worth the climb and you can then head down to the pool at the base of the falls. The rocks are very slippery and the current was quite strong so I decided not to swim — be careful if you do — but I dipped my feet in the refreshing water.
Visit one of Sri Lanka's oldest tea estates
There are a lot of opportunities to learn about tea production in Sri Lanka. In the Nuwara Eliya and Ella areas, in particular, there are many tea factories and plantations that offer free tours (usually with a free cuppa), although you will likely receive strong encouragement to make a purchase from the shop.
After doing a lot of research, I decided to visit Bluefield Tea Factory, one of the larger establishments and one whose tours were said to be particularly informative. Tea has been cultivated at Bluefield since the 1840s, while the factory whose blue hue gives the company its name was built in the 1920s.
My guide walked me through all of the stages of the tea production process. We watched tea pickers bringing in freshly picked tea leaves (each picker collects 20 to 30 kg per day — a hard job, especially under the hot midday sun) and then saw the tea being withered and rolled, and then undergoing oxidation and drying.
My guide walked me through all of the stages of the tea production process. We watched tea pickers bringing in freshly picked tea leaves (each picker collects 20 to 30 kg per day — a hard job, especially under the hot midday sun) and then saw the tea being withered and rolled, and then undergoing oxidation and drying.
Afterwards, I had the opportunity to visit the tea gardens and pick some tea myself — suffice to say that it's a challenging job, and it made me all the more appreciative of the hard work of the pickers and all of the other workers who carry out the vital labour that underpins every cup we drink. I stopped for a cup of tea and a sandwich in the café afterwards — upgrading to the more premium Blue Moon Tea, which was pretty nice (hey, I'm a coffee person!). And I bought some tea in the shop, mainly as gifts.
I stopped at Ramboda and Bluefield and various viewpoints (including one where a local tea picker insisted I take her photo, for a small tip) en route from Kandy by tuk tuk, a beautifully scenic journey. If you have more time in Nuwara Eliya, you can easily visit Ramboda and Bluefield on a half-day tuk tuk tour instead.
Ride the rails to Kandy and/or Ella
The train journey from Kandy to Ella is one of the most iconic in the world and it's an experience in itself, not just a way to get from A to B (or A to B to C). I ended up taking the train for the most scenic part, from Nanu Oya (the nearest station to Nuwara Eliya) to Ella. Unsurprisingly, this route is extremely popular with tourists and if you want to guarantee getting a seat, you'll need to make a reservation in advance.
Bookings open 30 days in advance and you can book directly online or go through an agency like Visit Sri Lanka Tours, who have more experience at the fastest-finger-first game when new tickets become available. I found that tickets were added to the website each day around 2:30 or 3 pm UK time, but this varies so it's best to do a practice run in advance if you're set on a particular train or date. Either way, you can choose your ticket class (air-conditioned first class, second class or third class) but not your seat.
I paid about £11 for a second-class ticket — the disadvantage of first class is that the windows don't open, which impacts the view and photos (tell that to the person on my train sitting in front of me who refused to open the window for half the journey!). I was allocated an aisle seat next to a partial window but the person next to me didn't show up and you can move around anyway to enjoy the view from the open doors. If you book direct, you will receive an e-ticket via email; if you use an agency you may need to collect your physical ticket from their office or any Sri Lankan train station.
I paid about £11 for a second-class ticket — the disadvantage of first class is that the windows don't open, which impacts the view and photos (tell that to the person on my train sitting in front of me who refused to open the window for half the journey!). I was allocated an aisle seat next to a partial window but the person next to me didn't show up and you can move around anyway to enjoy the view from the open doors. If you book direct, you will receive an e-ticket via email; if you use an agency you may need to collect your physical ticket from their office or any Sri Lankan train station.
Check out the Man in Seat 61's guide for comprehensive information about rail travel in Sri Lanka, including the latest timetables and best trains to catch. I caught train number 1041, the Ella Odyssey, which only runs on Saturdays. It left Nanu Oya about 12:30 pm (about 20 minutes late) and arrived in Ella just after 3 pm (10 minutes late) — after decades of disrupted travel on British trains, this is not bad at all! I travelled on the day of the 2024 Presidential Election, but this didn't impact my journey.
The leather seats on the train are quite old but fairly comfy and most of them recline. My biggest challenge was the height of the luggage rack: my small suitcase wasn't heavy but as I'm only 5'3, I needed a hand to lift it all the way up. It didn't help that there were two surfboards in the rack! I brought plenty of water and snacks, which was lucky as I missed the vendor selling food while I was hanging out of the train door.
A note on the 'hanging': it goes without saying that you should be very careful if you do this and keep a close eye out for upcoming trees and tunnels. If you're travelling with someone else, you can get a nice shot if they take your photo from the next carriage. I was on my lonesome but a fellow tourist did at least get one shot of me.
A note on the 'hanging': it goes without saying that you should be very careful if you do this and keep a close eye out for upcoming trees and tunnels. If you're travelling with someone else, you can get a nice shot if they take your photo from the next carriage. I was on my lonesome but a fellow tourist did at least get one shot of me.
As for the scenery, it's mesmerising (check out my Instagram for a few more photos and videos). We left Nanu Oya enshrouded in thick mist and heavy rain, with temperatures around 15C. The train slowly wound its way through hills and tea plantations, navigating tight hairpin bends and stopping at small hill country stations. We passed near Horton Plains National Park and the landscape opened up, offering stunning vistas of the countryside and distant mountains. By the time we arrived in Ella, it was 30C and sunny and I packed away my rain jacket, not to be used again until my journey home to London. What a great adventure!
FOOD & DRINK
After all that hiking and exploring, you've earned a good high tea. I gave this a miss — I grew up in Oxford, after all — but if you're keen, check out the Grand Hotel's Tea Lounge, the Jetwing St Andrew's or Heritance Tea Factory, where I'd love to have stayed.
For dinner, I headed to Themparadu, a surprisingly cool eatery for sleepy Nuwara Eliya. It's a few minutes' walk from the town centre and the house music was already playing at just gone 6 pm. This seemed at odds with the traditional fireplace inside, where a roaring fire was blazing. It was 21C outside but this is the Nuwara Eliya way.
The creative food and drink menu at Themparadu is great. I had a delicious honey roast chicken with stir-fried veg and rice. I also had a tree tomato cocktail. The tree tomato, for the uninitiated (like me), is a tamarillo. It has a sweet and tart taste and a texture almost like a peach or nectarine. It tasted delicious in my drink.
The creative food and drink menu at Themparadu is great. I had a delicious honey roast chicken with stir-fried veg and rice. I also had a tree tomato cocktail. The tree tomato, for the uninitiated (like me), is a tamarillo. It has a sweet and tart taste and a texture almost like a peach or nectarine. It tasted delicious in my drink.
I also had a tasty curry and rice at Ambaal's Pure Vegetarian, a nice, low-key eatery in the town centre.
WHERE TO STAY IN NUWARA ELIYA
I stayed at the Trevene Hotel, a cosy and characterful guesthouse in a 150-year-old former tea bungalow a short walk from Nuwara Eliya town centre. As I was only spending one night, I wanted a more affordable option and my deluxe double room cost about £40 including breakfast (NB: no credit cards).
The hotel's décor made me feel as though I'd stepped into a time warp back to the 1970s — not uncommon in Nuwara Eliya — but my room was large, very comfortable and extremely quiet. The hosts were extremely welcoming and came to light a roaring fire in my in-room fireplace. It wasn't that cold outside but I'd never slept with a fire in my room before, so I wanted to have the experience (warmth: 10/10, smokiness: 7/10).
The breakfast buffet is in the neighbouring Panorama Green View Hotel, which has the same owners and which was fully booked during my stay. Breakfast was just me and a party of 20 Greeks; this plus the décor did make me feel like I was on the set of a Yorgos Lanthimos film! Other accommodation options in Nuwara Eliya include the Jetwing St Andrew's, Oatlands by Jetwing and the Grand Hotel.
I would have loved to stay at the Heritance Tea Factory, set inside, as its name suggests, a former tea factory surrounded by acres of tea gardens. It looks beautiful and offers some amazing tea experiences but it was a little out of my budget — and a little far outside Nuwara Eliya given that I was only going to be there for one night and wouldn't get much chance to enjoy all of its facilities.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
By road, Nuwara Eliya is about five hours from Colombo, three hours from Kandy and two hours from Ella. The train takes about six to seven hours from Colombo, three to four hours from Kandy and around three hours from Ella. I highly recommend taking the train from Nanu Oya to Ella, although the Kandy to Nuwara Eliya section is just as impressive — and a lot quicker — by road. Check out the Man in Seat 61's Sri Lanka train travel guide for more details.
Nuwara Eliya's town centre is small and very walkable compared to many places in Sri Lanka — a) it's much cooler and b) it's not as hectic. If you are heading further afield, it's easy to find a tuk tuk. Or horse!
NEED TO KNOW
If you're looking for packing tips, check out my Sri Lanka packing guide or my recommendations of tried-and-tested products for travel.
Electricity. Sri Lanka uses two main plug socket types: type D (with three round pins) and type G (with three rectangular pins, also used in the UK). My Nuwara Eliya hotel was the only place I stayed on this trip that didn't support type G plugs. I brought a type D adapter with me but I'm sure the hotel would have had a spare.
Language. Sri Lanka has two official languages, Sinhala and Tamil, which are related but not mutually intelligible. Sinhala words and names are often long but it's useful to know that the stress usually falls on the antepenultimate syllable (e.g. Pi-du-RAN-ga-la). English is a recognised language, often used as a bridging language in administration, and spoken widely, especially in the tourism and hospitality industries, but try to learn a few keys words in Sinhala and/or Tamil. 'Thank you' is Sthuthi in Sinhala and nanri in Tamil.
Money. At the time of writing (October 2024), the exchange rate of the Sri Lankan rupee (LKR) was about 390 LKR to the British pound or 294 LKR to the US dollar. I downloaded the XE currency converter app to help with currency calculations on the go. Cash is very much still king in Sri Lanka — I was only able to pay by credit card in some of the hotels I stayed in, some higher-end restaurants and shops and at some of the major tourist sites. ATMs are widespread and it's usually easy to find one that doesn't charge for withdrawals (but check with your bank about international charges). ATMs tend to distribute 5,000 LKR (about £13) notes, for which smaller establishments may not be able to make change. Try to break bigger notes when you can — I found that 1,000, 500 and 100 LKR notes were the most useful to have on hand.
Time zone. Sri Lanka Standard Time is 5.5 hours ahead of GMT. There is no daylight savings time, which means the country is 4.5 hours ahead of the UK during British Summer Time.
Weather. Sri Lanka has many micro-climates and there's not one single best time to visit the whole country. There are two main monsoon seasons: during the main southwest monsoon, the southwest coast and hill country (including Nuwara Eliya) experience rain from April/May to September, while the less severe northeast monsoon impacts the east coast from November to March. Nuwara Eliya is in the highest region of Sri Lanka, which means it's also the coolest. During my visit in September, the temperatures were around 20C — 10 degrees lower than nearby Kandy and Ella. It also drizzled for most of my stay, but what else can you expect from a town nicknamed 'Little England'?
Wifi/mobile data. My Colombo airport transfer came with a free 30GB Mobitel eSIM card, which had good 4G coverage throughout my trip; download speeds were often better than the hotel wifi. If I hadn't had this free SIM, I would have used my favourite eSIM provider, Airalo. I've used their eSIMs in various countries across three continents and always appreciate the convenience and reasonable pricing that they offer. Want to try Airalo on your next trip? Sign up using my referral code — REBECC3024 — and we both get $3 credit.
Check out my other Sri Lanka travel guides here: The Cultural Triangle, Kandy, Ella, Galle and the south coast, Colombo, Sri Lanka specialty coffee guide and two-week Sri Lanka itinerary.
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