27 November 2018
At Central Restaurante, a 16-Course Adventure across Peru
It goes without saying that if you want to hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, you need to book your trip a long time in advance. But there was another activity on my Peru to-do list that required a long lead time: dining at Central in Lima. Currently ranked number six on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, Virgilio Martínez's fêted restaurant, which applies modern techniques to Peruvian ingredients, has long been on my radar and my interest was further piqued by an episode of Chef's Table. I have high expectations, and the experience exceeds them, delighting my senses and taking me on a journey through the ecosystems of Peru that sets the stage for the rest of my holiday.
23 November 2018
The Caffeine Chronicles: Rosslyn Coffee
A few weeks ago, I tweeted about my frustrations of going into speciality coffee shops that offer hand-brewed filter coffee and asking for a pourover, only to be directed towards the batch-brew filter even when the shops aren't busy. I have the complete opposite experience when I pay a visit to Rosslyn Coffee on Queen Victoria Street in the heart of the City of London.
When I ask what coffee is available as a pourover, the baristas enthusiastically tell me about the Commonfolk coffee — roasted on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia — describing its flavours. They let me know that it is a little more expensive than the batch-brew, which is fine, of course, and offer me a choose of still or sparkling tap water.
This sense of hospitality continues throughout my visit and it's clear that the staff are keen to share their pride in the products they sell, from the coffee and the salted caramel Bread Ahead brownies, to the beautiful, bespoke ceramics from Melisa Dora. Sensing my interest in the coffee, one of the baristas brings me over a card with more information about the Young Blood filter blend I am drinking — which pairs two Ethiopian varieties, a Konga and a Worka, whose peach and lemonade notes really sing. Brewed through a Marco precision brewer, the coffee smells delicious as soon as it has been placed in front of me in the bench.
Named for the Melbourne street where one of the two owners used to work, Rosslyn Coffee certainly embodies that effortless Aussie coolness I encountered in many of the coffee shops I visited last year. They aren't afraid to put 'hard ballads' like Aerosmith on the soundtrack, just like Toronto restauranteur Jen Agg, who talks about such musical choices on Slate's excellent Women in Charge podcast. One of my favourite features is the newspaper pages pinned to the wall — the Pink 'Un, for this is the City, after all — a callback, perhaps, to Patricia Coffee Brewers, one of my favourite Melbourne coffee shops. Patricia is so tiny that there's barely even elbow room, hence the need to attach the newspaper to the wall. Rosslyn is more spacious — in the afternoon, at least — but with only slim high tables at which to perch, it's nice to have some reading material that doesn't require too much room.
Rosslyn is, by no means, style over substance, however, and my coffee, served in a glass beaker with one of the pink Melisa Dora cups, tastes wonderful. One of the two coffees is washed and the other a natural process, and they combine very well. This is a coffee shop that takes its coffee seriously without taking itself too seriously. As they note on their social media, they are, "Not concerned with trends, only what tastes good." Amen to that.
I wait until I've finished my coffee before starting on the brownie, which is very rich but delicious. And of course, I can't leave the premises without buying one of the ceramic cups. The only difficult decision is whether to choose the blue or the pink. In the end, I opt for the latter. I could have bought some coordinating Modern Standard coffee beans too, but I've already stocked up on some Ethiopian Catalyst coffee en route, which also comes in pink-accented packaging.
Rosslyn Coffee. 78 Queen Victoria Street, London, EC4N 4SJ (Tube: Mansion House). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
When I ask what coffee is available as a pourover, the baristas enthusiastically tell me about the Commonfolk coffee — roasted on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia — describing its flavours. They let me know that it is a little more expensive than the batch-brew, which is fine, of course, and offer me a choose of still or sparkling tap water.
This sense of hospitality continues throughout my visit and it's clear that the staff are keen to share their pride in the products they sell, from the coffee and the salted caramel Bread Ahead brownies, to the beautiful, bespoke ceramics from Melisa Dora. Sensing my interest in the coffee, one of the baristas brings me over a card with more information about the Young Blood filter blend I am drinking — which pairs two Ethiopian varieties, a Konga and a Worka, whose peach and lemonade notes really sing. Brewed through a Marco precision brewer, the coffee smells delicious as soon as it has been placed in front of me in the bench.
Named for the Melbourne street where one of the two owners used to work, Rosslyn Coffee certainly embodies that effortless Aussie coolness I encountered in many of the coffee shops I visited last year. They aren't afraid to put 'hard ballads' like Aerosmith on the soundtrack, just like Toronto restauranteur Jen Agg, who talks about such musical choices on Slate's excellent Women in Charge podcast. One of my favourite features is the newspaper pages pinned to the wall — the Pink 'Un, for this is the City, after all — a callback, perhaps, to Patricia Coffee Brewers, one of my favourite Melbourne coffee shops. Patricia is so tiny that there's barely even elbow room, hence the need to attach the newspaper to the wall. Rosslyn is more spacious — in the afternoon, at least — but with only slim high tables at which to perch, it's nice to have some reading material that doesn't require too much room.
Rosslyn is, by no means, style over substance, however, and my coffee, served in a glass beaker with one of the pink Melisa Dora cups, tastes wonderful. One of the two coffees is washed and the other a natural process, and they combine very well. This is a coffee shop that takes its coffee seriously without taking itself too seriously. As they note on their social media, they are, "Not concerned with trends, only what tastes good." Amen to that.
I wait until I've finished my coffee before starting on the brownie, which is very rich but delicious. And of course, I can't leave the premises without buying one of the ceramic cups. The only difficult decision is whether to choose the blue or the pink. In the end, I opt for the latter. I could have bought some coordinating Modern Standard coffee beans too, but I've already stocked up on some Ethiopian Catalyst coffee en route, which also comes in pink-accented packaging.
Rosslyn Coffee. 78 Queen Victoria Street, London, EC4N 4SJ (Tube: Mansion House). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
20 November 2018
The Caffeine Chronicles: Origin Coffee, Southwark
As I take a seat at one of the small wooden tables at Origin Coffee's new coffee shop in Scoresby Street, Southwark, the card from the Third Wave Coffee Tour I took in Portland, Oregon, falls out. It is an apt coincidence because the latest Origin shop, located inside one of the railway arches just east of Waterloo East, reminds me a lot of the laid-back, industrial-chic coffee shops I visited in the City of Roses, particularly those east of the Willamette River.
Like the other Origin coffee shops I've visited, in Shoreditch and on the Euston Road, Scoresby Street is beautifully designed, with its interiors showcasing the cafe's arched ceiling. A quartet of four Modbar espresso units hold court on the right-hand side of the counter, while the left-hand side — painted forest green and with three wooden stools — hosts the brew bar.
There's another forest green perching section near the door for those who like geometric designs. Wooden tables of various sizes fill most of the rest of the space. As usual, the petite posies that adorn most of the tables are really on point. If you ever need tips for small-scale flower arrangement, look no further than Origin!
There are the usual espresso-based drinks on the coffee menu, as well as a batch-brew filter and a special coffee available as a pourover: a Finca Nuguo Geisha natural coffee from Panama (near the Costa Rican coffee). I enjoy the coffee from the first sip, but it really comes into its own as it cools, the raspberry and chocolate notes coming through nicely. I keep raising the black ceramic tumbler to my face so I can keep inhaling the gorgeous scents. For those in the mood for a boozier brunch, there are a couple of cocktails on the menu, including one featuring a drink from Dan Fellows' recent World Coffee in Good Spirits victory.
I've arrived in time for brunch, which is served all day on Saturdays and Sundays. The brunch menu is fairly extensive, with nine dishes on the list, plus two specials. The brioche tartine (£6.50), with roast plum, vanilla ricotta, hazelnut butter and almonds, sounds delicious but I'm in the market for something more substantial. I order the brunch club (£10), a slightly fancier, brunchier take on the classic breakfast sandwich. Generous hunks of sourdough, spread with tabasco-mayo, share the plate with streaky bacon, a fried egg, roast tomato, avocado and rocket. I'm glad it is served as more of a deconstructed sandwich, because I think I would struggle to eat it with my hands. It tastes great and I leave a very clean plate.
I was pleased when Origin opened a coffee shop so close to my office in King's Cross, and now this latest addition is rather closer to him — and about midway along my commute to work. Given how bad the traffic has been on Blackfriars Road lately, perhaps I'll have to start breaking the journey at Scoresby Street.
Origin Coffee. 84 Scoresby Street, London, SE1 0XN (Tube: Southwark). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
Like the other Origin coffee shops I've visited, in Shoreditch and on the Euston Road, Scoresby Street is beautifully designed, with its interiors showcasing the cafe's arched ceiling. A quartet of four Modbar espresso units hold court on the right-hand side of the counter, while the left-hand side — painted forest green and with three wooden stools — hosts the brew bar.
There's another forest green perching section near the door for those who like geometric designs. Wooden tables of various sizes fill most of the rest of the space. As usual, the petite posies that adorn most of the tables are really on point. If you ever need tips for small-scale flower arrangement, look no further than Origin!
There are the usual espresso-based drinks on the coffee menu, as well as a batch-brew filter and a special coffee available as a pourover: a Finca Nuguo Geisha natural coffee from Panama (near the Costa Rican coffee). I enjoy the coffee from the first sip, but it really comes into its own as it cools, the raspberry and chocolate notes coming through nicely. I keep raising the black ceramic tumbler to my face so I can keep inhaling the gorgeous scents. For those in the mood for a boozier brunch, there are a couple of cocktails on the menu, including one featuring a drink from Dan Fellows' recent World Coffee in Good Spirits victory.
I've arrived in time for brunch, which is served all day on Saturdays and Sundays. The brunch menu is fairly extensive, with nine dishes on the list, plus two specials. The brioche tartine (£6.50), with roast plum, vanilla ricotta, hazelnut butter and almonds, sounds delicious but I'm in the market for something more substantial. I order the brunch club (£10), a slightly fancier, brunchier take on the classic breakfast sandwich. Generous hunks of sourdough, spread with tabasco-mayo, share the plate with streaky bacon, a fried egg, roast tomato, avocado and rocket. I'm glad it is served as more of a deconstructed sandwich, because I think I would struggle to eat it with my hands. It tastes great and I leave a very clean plate.
I was pleased when Origin opened a coffee shop so close to my office in King's Cross, and now this latest addition is rather closer to him — and about midway along my commute to work. Given how bad the traffic has been on Blackfriars Road lately, perhaps I'll have to start breaking the journey at Scoresby Street.
Origin Coffee. 84 Scoresby Street, London, SE1 0XN (Tube: Southwark). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
14 November 2018
The Caffeine Chronicles: Redemption Roasters, King's Cross
Redemption Roasters' first London coffee shop, located on Lamb's Conduit Street, is close enough to my King's Cross office that I can pop down for a pourover or to buy some beans in my lunch break. But I am even more excited when I hear that they will be opening a third cafe (the second being in Farringdon) in the shiny new Coal Drops Yard development at King's Cross.
Coal Drops Yard has been a work in progress for several years, as I've observed from the towpath on my lunchtime jogs, and finally opened up earlier this month. If you are into high-end lifestyle boutiques, you'll probably enjoy shopping at Coal Drops Yard, but I am more interested in the food and drink options, which include Casa & Plaza Pastór (a new eatery from one of my favourite Mexican restaurants) and Redemption Roasters.
The coffee shop occupies a small unit on Lower Stable Street, on the ground floor at the edge of the 'yard' below Granary Square. Although the new development has its fair share of modern glass and sleek metal, Lower Stable Street preserves a lot of the area's industrial heritage, housing shops and eateries inside the brick viaducts. There are a couple of tables outside Redemption Roasters, although given the recent weather, they may not get much use for the next few months.
Inside, the space features even more period details, but with some Redemption Roasters twists to the décor, like the mid-century school-style chairs. There are a few small tables, a larger communal table and then a few spots to perch — at the brew bar and at the window. There are also beans for sale — Redemption Roasters roasts their coffee in Aylesbury prison, where they train young offenders with roasting and barista skills — and a small but well-curated collection of coffee-making kit.
I've been to the newest Redemption Roasters location three times now, twice for a piccolo and once for a pourover. The coffee is prepared to the same high standards I've come to expect from this company. One of the piccolos, brewed with a particularly fruity Peruvian espresso, is particularly good and had faultless latte art. I was also pleased to see Acme cups and saucers in the dark blue colour, which also seemed to be popular in New York during my recent trip.
On another occasion, I have more time and order an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe brewed through the pourover. At £4.90, it's on the pricey side, but the coffee is very well brewed with the sweet and citrusy flavour notes coming through nicely. I also order scrambled eggs on a delicious sourdough. There are also assorted pastries, sandwiches, toasties and brunch dishes on offer. King's Cross is far from the speciality coffee black spot it once was, but I am really glad that Redemption Roasters have arrived in the neighbourhood.
Redemption Roasters. Stable Street, King's Cross, London, N1C 4AQ (Tube: King's Cross). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
Coal Drops Yard has been a work in progress for several years, as I've observed from the towpath on my lunchtime jogs, and finally opened up earlier this month. If you are into high-end lifestyle boutiques, you'll probably enjoy shopping at Coal Drops Yard, but I am more interested in the food and drink options, which include Casa & Plaza Pastór (a new eatery from one of my favourite Mexican restaurants) and Redemption Roasters.
The coffee shop occupies a small unit on Lower Stable Street, on the ground floor at the edge of the 'yard' below Granary Square. Although the new development has its fair share of modern glass and sleek metal, Lower Stable Street preserves a lot of the area's industrial heritage, housing shops and eateries inside the brick viaducts. There are a couple of tables outside Redemption Roasters, although given the recent weather, they may not get much use for the next few months.
Inside, the space features even more period details, but with some Redemption Roasters twists to the décor, like the mid-century school-style chairs. There are a few small tables, a larger communal table and then a few spots to perch — at the brew bar and at the window. There are also beans for sale — Redemption Roasters roasts their coffee in Aylesbury prison, where they train young offenders with roasting and barista skills — and a small but well-curated collection of coffee-making kit.
I've been to the newest Redemption Roasters location three times now, twice for a piccolo and once for a pourover. The coffee is prepared to the same high standards I've come to expect from this company. One of the piccolos, brewed with a particularly fruity Peruvian espresso, is particularly good and had faultless latte art. I was also pleased to see Acme cups and saucers in the dark blue colour, which also seemed to be popular in New York during my recent trip.
On another occasion, I have more time and order an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe brewed through the pourover. At £4.90, it's on the pricey side, but the coffee is very well brewed with the sweet and citrusy flavour notes coming through nicely. I also order scrambled eggs on a delicious sourdough. There are also assorted pastries, sandwiches, toasties and brunch dishes on offer. King's Cross is far from the speciality coffee black spot it once was, but I am really glad that Redemption Roasters have arrived in the neighbourhood.
Redemption Roasters. Stable Street, King's Cross, London, N1C 4AQ (Tube: King's Cross). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
12 November 2018
Autumn Snapshots from New York City
In addition to checking out various speciality coffee spots on my recent visit to New York, I had a little time to explore the city once I'd finished my days in our company's Financial District office. October is one of my favourite months to visit New York — as the constant stream of Facebook 'memories' suggest — and I was really lucky with the weather. It was crisp and sunny most of the time — perhaps a little too crisp on my last day — which was perfect for wandering around the city.
Brooklyn
After working for eight days straight, I decided to do all of my favourite NYC things (including some from this long weekend guide) on my day off. First off was a morning run from my Lower East Side hotel over Manhattan Bridge to Brooklyn and back via the Brooklyn Bridge — with a stop-off at the gorgeous new Cobble Hill branch of Stumptown Coffee. It was a beautifully clear morning and the views were fantastic. No matter how many times I cross Brooklyn Bridge, I still get a little thrill each time I step out onto the walkway.
As I'd done two of the three 'BMW bridges (a helpful mnemonic to remember the Brooklyn, Manhattan and Williamsburg bridges from south to north), I decided to walk over the Williamsburg Bridge from the LES to downtown Williamsburg, which took about 30 minutes. The weather wasn't quite as good as the day before but I still enjoyed the views.
After indulging in a little retail therapy, including at Baggu, Catbird, and Artists & Fleas, I wandered down to the riverfront for some street food at Smorgasburg. I don't know if it's always incredibly windy there or just when I go, but I did get a little chilly while I made the rounds of the food trucks, trying to narrow down my food choices. In the end, I went for some Mao's Baos, plus a massive dulce de leche almond doughnut from Dough, which I ate with a wonderful view of the Manhattan skyline.
One night after work, two colleagues and I went for cocktails at Elsa, a cool and beautiful cocktail bar in Cobble Hill. I'd actually visited Elsa's now-defunct East Village location some years ago and was happy to be back. As well as a cool neon sign, well-stocked bar and famously selfie-worthy bathrooms, Elsa's cocktails are spot on. I had the gin-heavy 'Hemp Ascot' and although I was a little sad the 'rainbow peppercorn' didn't translate into a rainbow-coloured cocktail, it was potent and very well mixed. In need of sustenance, we then hopped over the road to Table 87, sharing a massive coal-oven pizza with soppressata, which more than fit the bill.
Financial District
I spent the first couple of days of my trip in the Financial District, arriving from DC a couple of minutes too late to catch the sunset from Battery Park, although its aftermath was still pretty stunning.
Not wanting to travel too far or to wait in line for dinner, I decided to go to a new opening nearby called Pastagram. Although its name references Instagram, it isn't actually particularly Instagram friendly, mainly because the lighting isn't great. The pasta at the small eatery was pretty good, however. You can choose your noodle style and your sauce — or opt for one of their set dishes. I went for the 'don't touch my protein': chunky fusilloni pasta with ragù, which was tasty and filling.
After dinner, I went for a walk over to the Westfield mall inside the 'Oculus' World Trade Center transport hub. I took a few photos and did a little window shopping.
In the morning, I got up early to go for a run — and for coffee — snapping a quick photo of the old and new architecture on Trinity Street. And then I arrived at the office, where every visitor has to spend at least five minutes taking photos of the views of Lower Manhattan skyline and Liberty Island.
Lower East Side
For my last three nights, I moved to the Orchard Street Hotel in the heart of Lower East Side. October is a pretty expensive time to visit NYC, and even booking 3–4 months in advance didn't really yield any bargains. My room at the Orchard Street Hotel was tiny but had a great view, down to Lower Manhattan and up to the Empire State Building. It was also comfortable and quiet, and the hotel's location was ideal: in walking distance of or a short subway ride from most of the neighbourhoods I wanted to visit.
It definitely didn't hurt that my hotel was just one block down from new pizzeria Una Pizza Napoletana. I went one evening — try to go early if you don't have a booking — and ordered the margherita. Although expensive — the margherita was $22 plus tax and tip — it was absolutely delicious, with a puffy crust, creamy mozzarella and tasty tomato sauce, and the décor, ambiance and service were great too. Sometimes I forget how spoiled we are in London to be able to get world-class Neapolitan pizzas for under £10.
Soho & Nolita
It only took ten minutes to walk to Nolita from my hotel and I spent quite a bit of time there, shopping, coffee-shop hopping and wandering. I stopped into one of my favourite book stores, McNally Jackson (which is relocating but not closing, thankfully), a number of the clothing chains I like, and also the Amazon four-star shop, which stocks only items that have a four-star rating or higher on the Amazon website. I didn't buy anything but it was busy and there were plenty of tech, travel and kitchen items I could have bought.
On my last morning in the city, I went for breakfast at Egg Shop, which has been on my list for a long time. It was busy even at 9 am, but as I was dining solo I soon nabbed a spot at the bar. I had an excellent Egg Shop B.E.C. (bacon, egg, cheese) sandwich, with Vermont white cheddar, Black Forest bacon, tomato jam and pickled jalapeño. The coffee, which was good, is from Café Integral, which is located right next door.
West Village, Greenwich Village & East Village
Arriving in the city shortly before Halloween meant that the decorations and pumpkins were already out in full force. As I felt like doing a seasonal activity, I took a Boroughs of the Dead walking tour, one night. This entailed a two-hour wander through the East Village and Greenwich Village, ending near Washington Square. It wasn't supposed to be a 'scary' ghost walk, but there were lots of good historical stories — some rather tragic — and ghostly lore. Another time, I would like to take the 'forgotten dark histories of Lower Manhattan' tour.
It was 9.30 pm when the ghost tour finished and I was ravenous. I decided to go to Greenwich Village favourite, J. G. Melon, for a quick dinner. My no-frills bacon cheeseburger was juicy and perfectly medium rare. I probably didn't need a whole side of 'cottage fries', but they were tasty too.
Over in the West Village, I ate one of the best burgers I've ever had at Emily. Primarily a Detroit-style pizza restaurant, Emily also serves a limited number of burgers per day. With a double patty, American cheese, caramelised onions and 'Emmy sauce' on a pretzel bun, and curly fries on the side, this burger was immense and utterly delicious. At $26, it wasn't cheap, but I will definitely make a beeline to Emily on my next trip to New York.
For my last brunch of the trip, I went to Joseph Leonard in the West Village. I didn't book and had to wait about an hour for a spot to open up at the bar in the small, cosy restaurant, but I was able to leave my name and visit a few of my favourite shops in the area, like stationery store Greenwich Letterpress and travel book store Idlewild. Back at Joseph Leonard, I had a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, which tasted great. Ahead of my flight home, I'd switched to mocktails, but like at their sister restaurant Jeffrey's Grocery, these are great too.
On this trip, I made my first visit to David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar in the East Village, which has long been on my to-visit list. The signature pork belly ramen was comforting and delicious — just what I needed after a long day in the office and faced with a chilly evening. I arrived early and there was a seat available at the bar — by the time I left, closer to 7 pm, a line was starting to form at the bar. Speaking of David Chang, I binge-watched his excellent Netflix series Ugly Delicious, where each episode explores the culture and history underlying eight different popular foods. The first episode on pizza was particularly good.
I met an old friend for drinks at East Village bar Mace early one evening. Earning a place on the World's 50 Best Bars list, Mace has really excellent cocktails, each based around a different spice. Although the pink peppercorn listed on the menu wasn't available, the two drinks I tried (one acacia-based and one that invoked fragrant south-east Asian flavours and spices) were impeccable. We also got to sit by the window and watch the East Village stroll by.
Chelsea & Flatiron
I didn't spend much time above 20th Street on this trip but I did head up to see the Empire State Building lit up in blue and orange to celebrate the New York Knicks on my first night in the city. The stretch of Fifth Avenue and Broadway between 16th and 23rd Streets is one of my favourite places in the city to shop, so after I'd taken a few photos, I indulged in a spot of retail therapy too.
Further west, I also did my usual walk along the High Line one afternoon, which was busier than ever.
Brooklyn
After working for eight days straight, I decided to do all of my favourite NYC things (including some from this long weekend guide) on my day off. First off was a morning run from my Lower East Side hotel over Manhattan Bridge to Brooklyn and back via the Brooklyn Bridge — with a stop-off at the gorgeous new Cobble Hill branch of Stumptown Coffee. It was a beautifully clear morning and the views were fantastic. No matter how many times I cross Brooklyn Bridge, I still get a little thrill each time I step out onto the walkway.
As I'd done two of the three 'BMW bridges (a helpful mnemonic to remember the Brooklyn, Manhattan and Williamsburg bridges from south to north), I decided to walk over the Williamsburg Bridge from the LES to downtown Williamsburg, which took about 30 minutes. The weather wasn't quite as good as the day before but I still enjoyed the views.
After indulging in a little retail therapy, including at Baggu, Catbird, and Artists & Fleas, I wandered down to the riverfront for some street food at Smorgasburg. I don't know if it's always incredibly windy there or just when I go, but I did get a little chilly while I made the rounds of the food trucks, trying to narrow down my food choices. In the end, I went for some Mao's Baos, plus a massive dulce de leche almond doughnut from Dough, which I ate with a wonderful view of the Manhattan skyline.
One night after work, two colleagues and I went for cocktails at Elsa, a cool and beautiful cocktail bar in Cobble Hill. I'd actually visited Elsa's now-defunct East Village location some years ago and was happy to be back. As well as a cool neon sign, well-stocked bar and famously selfie-worthy bathrooms, Elsa's cocktails are spot on. I had the gin-heavy 'Hemp Ascot' and although I was a little sad the 'rainbow peppercorn' didn't translate into a rainbow-coloured cocktail, it was potent and very well mixed. In need of sustenance, we then hopped over the road to Table 87, sharing a massive coal-oven pizza with soppressata, which more than fit the bill.
Financial District
I spent the first couple of days of my trip in the Financial District, arriving from DC a couple of minutes too late to catch the sunset from Battery Park, although its aftermath was still pretty stunning.
Not wanting to travel too far or to wait in line for dinner, I decided to go to a new opening nearby called Pastagram. Although its name references Instagram, it isn't actually particularly Instagram friendly, mainly because the lighting isn't great. The pasta at the small eatery was pretty good, however. You can choose your noodle style and your sauce — or opt for one of their set dishes. I went for the 'don't touch my protein': chunky fusilloni pasta with ragù, which was tasty and filling.
After dinner, I went for a walk over to the Westfield mall inside the 'Oculus' World Trade Center transport hub. I took a few photos and did a little window shopping.
In the morning, I got up early to go for a run — and for coffee — snapping a quick photo of the old and new architecture on Trinity Street. And then I arrived at the office, where every visitor has to spend at least five minutes taking photos of the views of Lower Manhattan skyline and Liberty Island.
Lower East Side
For my last three nights, I moved to the Orchard Street Hotel in the heart of Lower East Side. October is a pretty expensive time to visit NYC, and even booking 3–4 months in advance didn't really yield any bargains. My room at the Orchard Street Hotel was tiny but had a great view, down to Lower Manhattan and up to the Empire State Building. It was also comfortable and quiet, and the hotel's location was ideal: in walking distance of or a short subway ride from most of the neighbourhoods I wanted to visit.
It definitely didn't hurt that my hotel was just one block down from new pizzeria Una Pizza Napoletana. I went one evening — try to go early if you don't have a booking — and ordered the margherita. Although expensive — the margherita was $22 plus tax and tip — it was absolutely delicious, with a puffy crust, creamy mozzarella and tasty tomato sauce, and the décor, ambiance and service were great too. Sometimes I forget how spoiled we are in London to be able to get world-class Neapolitan pizzas for under £10.
Soho & Nolita
It only took ten minutes to walk to Nolita from my hotel and I spent quite a bit of time there, shopping, coffee-shop hopping and wandering. I stopped into one of my favourite book stores, McNally Jackson (which is relocating but not closing, thankfully), a number of the clothing chains I like, and also the Amazon four-star shop, which stocks only items that have a four-star rating or higher on the Amazon website. I didn't buy anything but it was busy and there were plenty of tech, travel and kitchen items I could have bought.
On my last morning in the city, I went for breakfast at Egg Shop, which has been on my list for a long time. It was busy even at 9 am, but as I was dining solo I soon nabbed a spot at the bar. I had an excellent Egg Shop B.E.C. (bacon, egg, cheese) sandwich, with Vermont white cheddar, Black Forest bacon, tomato jam and pickled jalapeño. The coffee, which was good, is from Café Integral, which is located right next door.
West Village, Greenwich Village & East Village
Arriving in the city shortly before Halloween meant that the decorations and pumpkins were already out in full force. As I felt like doing a seasonal activity, I took a Boroughs of the Dead walking tour, one night. This entailed a two-hour wander through the East Village and Greenwich Village, ending near Washington Square. It wasn't supposed to be a 'scary' ghost walk, but there were lots of good historical stories — some rather tragic — and ghostly lore. Another time, I would like to take the 'forgotten dark histories of Lower Manhattan' tour.
It was 9.30 pm when the ghost tour finished and I was ravenous. I decided to go to Greenwich Village favourite, J. G. Melon, for a quick dinner. My no-frills bacon cheeseburger was juicy and perfectly medium rare. I probably didn't need a whole side of 'cottage fries', but they were tasty too.
Over in the West Village, I ate one of the best burgers I've ever had at Emily. Primarily a Detroit-style pizza restaurant, Emily also serves a limited number of burgers per day. With a double patty, American cheese, caramelised onions and 'Emmy sauce' on a pretzel bun, and curly fries on the side, this burger was immense and utterly delicious. At $26, it wasn't cheap, but I will definitely make a beeline to Emily on my next trip to New York.
For my last brunch of the trip, I went to Joseph Leonard in the West Village. I didn't book and had to wait about an hour for a spot to open up at the bar in the small, cosy restaurant, but I was able to leave my name and visit a few of my favourite shops in the area, like stationery store Greenwich Letterpress and travel book store Idlewild. Back at Joseph Leonard, I had a buttermilk fried chicken sandwich, which tasted great. Ahead of my flight home, I'd switched to mocktails, but like at their sister restaurant Jeffrey's Grocery, these are great too.
On this trip, I made my first visit to David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar in the East Village, which has long been on my to-visit list. The signature pork belly ramen was comforting and delicious — just what I needed after a long day in the office and faced with a chilly evening. I arrived early and there was a seat available at the bar — by the time I left, closer to 7 pm, a line was starting to form at the bar. Speaking of David Chang, I binge-watched his excellent Netflix series Ugly Delicious, where each episode explores the culture and history underlying eight different popular foods. The first episode on pizza was particularly good.
I met an old friend for drinks at East Village bar Mace early one evening. Earning a place on the World's 50 Best Bars list, Mace has really excellent cocktails, each based around a different spice. Although the pink peppercorn listed on the menu wasn't available, the two drinks I tried (one acacia-based and one that invoked fragrant south-east Asian flavours and spices) were impeccable. We also got to sit by the window and watch the East Village stroll by.
Chelsea & Flatiron
I didn't spend much time above 20th Street on this trip but I did head up to see the Empire State Building lit up in blue and orange to celebrate the New York Knicks on my first night in the city. The stretch of Fifth Avenue and Broadway between 16th and 23rd Streets is one of my favourite places in the city to shop, so after I'd taken a few photos, I indulged in a spot of retail therapy too.
Further west, I also did my usual walk along the High Line one afternoon, which was busier than ever.
