The Caffeine Chronicles: The Black Lab

There are a few Clapham coffee shops that I've been meaning to check out for a while, but I don't often find myself in south-west London. A lazy Sunday brunch at The Dairy — a creative modern-British restaurant on Clapham Common — presented me with the perfect opportunity to visit The Black Lab, a coffee house that is just across the common. And when I say 'just across the common', I mean the small wedge of common near the Tube, not somewhere in the vicinity of Battersea.

The tables on the broad pavement outside The Black Lab were almost all occupied on the sunny, if not terribly warm, May afternoon I stopped by. I had already experienced a couple of hours of déjeuner sur l'herbe, or, at least, brunch sur le trottoir, so I sought shelter inside. There are a dozen or so small tables and the décor is cosy, comfortable and cheery.

The coffee menu is extensive — so much so that it took me a while to work out what to order. On the filter side, I spotted a Kenyan cold brew and a Colombian batch brew, but then I spotted a flask of what I assumed was a hand-brewed filter being delivered to a customer. Sadly (but understandably), The Black Lab only serves hand-brewed filters at the weekend (they are planning to bring in more brew methods). Too cold for cold brew, I decided to go for a piccolo in the end. Technically, I ordered a 4oz (£2.50, I think), as they serve their espresso-based coffees based on volume, rather than name. The sandwiches and cakes were being rearranged but I spotted a tasty-looking caramel shortbread and couldn't resist ordering a slice (£3.25).

Although The Black Lab was pretty busy, with plenty of drink-in and takeaway orders, my coffee and cake arrived promptly. The piccolo, with some impressive latte art and in a fine black Acme cup, looked rather good, and it tasted great too. The coffee was a Brazilian Recreio variety from Square Mile, which I've had a few times before and which has a rich, chocolatey taste. In fact, it went perfectly with my chocolate-caramel shortbread!

Feeling bad for being such a filter snob, I decided to take a cup of the batch-brew filter coffee to go (£2.50). It was a Colombian variety also from Square Mile and once it had cooled down, it was pretty good, although I think some of the subtler, more delicate notes might have come through more effectively with a good V60 pour.

The Black Lab is a lively but relaxed place to stop for a great coffee made by skilled and friendly baristas.

The Black Lab. 18 Clapham Common Southside, London, SW4 7AB (Tube: Clapham Common). Website. Twitter.

Coffee, Cupping and Cocktails with The Roastery Department

I've long been a fan of the cafes in the small but growing Department of Coffee and Social Affairs empire. There are nine now, in various locations from Piccadilly to Spitalfields, each serving speciality coffee. Last year, they launched their own roasting department called — you guessed it — The Roastery Department, who organised a coffee cupping and cocktail event for bloggers last week. The invitation was a bag of Costa Rican beans; how cool is that?

We gathered in the newly refurbished basement of the Spitalfields Department of Coffee, where we were welcomed by Department of Coffee CEO Ashley Lopez, Roastery Department head roaster Dumo Mathema and account manager Thom Bevan-Jones, as well as Bertie Sewell from green-coffee trader, Schluter Coffee.

Bertie talked about the importance of building good relationships with farmers and producers in order to secure the best quality beans in a sustainable way (the 'social affairs' aspect of the Department is just as important as the 'coffee'). Dumo then gave us a whistle-stop tour of coffee-processing techniques, from washed and natural to honey-processed (which doesn't actually involve honey; it just refers to the sticky, sugary substance that surrounds the coffee seed after the pulp is removed). Changing the processing method can alter the flavour of the coffee considerably, as can all the other variables, including the roasting itself. There are computer programs that can help you determine the best roast profile for a particular coffee, but when you have a guru like Dumo, you don't need them.

I've done a few cupping sessions and I still need a lot more practice, but each time, I learn a little more. Dumo showed us how to sniff the freshly roasted dry coffee grounds, then add hot water and sniff again. Next, we had to break the crust — piercing the thick layer of grounds floating on the surface of the water with a spoon and dragging backwards. After scooping away the grounds, it was finally time to perfect our slurps; not the most glamorous skill in the world, but it was kind of fun. Slurping just requires you to take a small spoonful of coffee and to slurp it back as hard as you can, ideally spraying the coffee across your palate to really appreciate those subtle notes. As it was an evening event, spittoons were provided (what did I just say about glamour?), but I have long since acquired the ability to drink coffee all day and night without any impact on my sleep.

Armed with an SCAA flavour wheel, we had to guess which coffee was processed using which technique and to describe the flavour profiles. The flavour wheel includes terms like 'rubber', 'skunky' and even 'onion', which, in case you hadn't guessed, aren't usually signs of a good coffee. 'Strawberry', 'jasmine' and 'chocolate', on the other hand, may be more appealing, depending on your taste in coffee.

I always say that my favourite coffees come from Central America — I'm partial to Costa Rican and Guatemalan varieties, in particular — yet whenever I do a blind tasting, it's usually the African varieties that I prefer. The natural-processed Ethiopian Sidamo, which was fruity and sweet, ended up being my favourite. The Roastery Department arranged some fantastic goodie bags for us, which included a bag of freshly roasted Sidamo beans; it's been tasting great brewed in my Hario cold brew maker.

After the cupping, it was time for a nightcap. Two, in fact. We tried a couple of different cold-brew cocktails, one involving vodka and ginger, and one with a delicious rum from Hackney-based Pirate's Grog. The rum was the perfect complement to the cold brew and, as we received a small bottle of it in our goodie bags, I made a fab mojito at the weekend. The bottle also looks cooler on my bar cart than Bacardi!

Engagement and advocacy is a big part of the Roastery Department's mission. They run a training school and hold cupping sessions, and it's clear that the whole team are really passionate about making speciality coffee accessible to a broad range of people: you don't have to be a coffee snob to enjoy a well-made, high-quality cup of coffee, after all.

I had a really fun evening — thanks again to The Roastery Department and the Department of Coffee for having me. It was also lovely to see some coffee-blogger friends and to meet a few new ones — I spent hours talking (coffee) shop with Jess from Eating East, Dan from Cups of London Coffee, Jamie from Bean There and Tayler from GRE&D.

The Department of Coffee and Social Affairs | Instagram | Twitter
The Roastery Department | Twitter

Vietnam Specialty Coffee Guide II: Hanoi

This is the second part of my Vietnam coffee guide, which focuses on the cafes I discovered in Hanoi. (You can read the first part, which covers Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An, here.)



I spent two full days and three evenings in Hanoi, which wasn't nearly enough time to explore all that the Vietnamese capital has to offer, but I did manage to visit eight cafes. Hanoi is famous for its unusual coffee concoctions, such as egg coffee and coconut coffee, which I had to sample, but I also found a few good spots for western-style specialty coffee. The map below includes coffee shops from Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An, so you will probably need to use the zoom.

Boeing Coffee Shop
I visited Boeing Coffee on the way back to the Old Quarter from Maison de Tet Decor (see below). As the name suggests, it is a cafe that has been designed to look like the inside of a Boeing aeroplane. It overlooks Trúc Bạch Lake and serves Vietnamese coffee and espresso-based drinks. In a failed attempt to cool down, I ordered an iced black coffee (30,000 VND; £1), which I sipped while I enjoyed the views. The menu also includes some intriguing blended ice drinks, such as 'Cookie Calamity' and 'The Elegant Irish'; I suspect they are probably much too sweet for me, but if you like that sort of drink, you may be in luck.

Boeing Coffee Shop is located at 29 Trúc Bạch (Ba Đình). Facebook. Instagram.

Cafe Phố Cổ
The rooftop of Cafe Phố Cổ  has a great view over Hoàn Kiếm Lake, which is lucky, because it takes a little bit of effort to get there! You enter through a silk shop on Hàng Gai, proceed through the alleyway and climb several increasingly precarious flights of stairs, one of which was being guarded by an extremely cute ginger cat.

The view is well worth it, though: you can see down to the lake's Turtle Tower and Thê Húc Bridge, and that high up, there was a rare breeze. I had an iced black coffee (30,000 VND; £1), which was pretty good, although not amazing. In case it isn't already clear, the view is the primary reason for heading to Cafe Phố Cổ.

Cafe Phố Cổ is located at 11 Hàng Gai (Old Quarter). TripAdvisor.

Càfê RuNam
Attracted by the cool copper coffee machine on the bar, I noticed RuNam on my first evening in Hanoi, but didn't visit until my last day, after I realised that it also came with a Fancy a Cuppa endorsement. Aside from the beautiful decor, RuNam has an extensive coffee, tea and dessert menu. They serve espresso-based drinks but as it was my last coffee before leaving Vietnam, I decided to have a final iced, black, Vietnamese-style coffee. At 81,000 VND, it was the most expensive Vietnamese coffee of my trip, although at £2.50, it was hardly breaking the bank. The coffee was very well prepared and had a complex, fruity taste. It was also exquisitely presented on some gorgeous blue ceramic tableware. RuNam also has several sister cafes and bistros in Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang and Nha Trang.

Càfê RuNam is located at 13 Nhà Thờ (Cathedral District). Website. Instagram.

Cộng Càphê
There are 16 coffee shops in Cộng Càphê's mini-empire. I went to one of Old Quarter branches for a post-dinner treat one evening. The decor was both cosy and quirky, with floor cushions and low tables for relaxing over a coffee, and vintage posters and military-themed objets d'art on display. I had heard that this was a great place to try a coconut coffee, so that's what I ordered (45,000 VND; £1.40). Very sweet and not unlike a Frappuccino, the drink blended coffee, coconut milk, fresh coconut and ice. It was delicious, although in my opinion, much more of a pudding than a coffee.

Cộng Càphê is located at 41 Hàng Điếu (Old Quarter). There are 15 other branches in Hanoi and other cities. Website. Twitter.

Đinh Cafe
This cafe was recommended to me by My from Rosie's Cafe in Hoi An as an authentic place to grab a Vietnamese-style coffee. It is hidden away down a very unpromising alleyway on the busy road that runs along the north side of Hoàn Kiếm Lake. At the end of the alley, you head upstairs into a small, dark room filled with young Hanoians. There is a small balcony that looks out onto the lake and I was lucky enough to find an empty seat in prime position. The egg coffee is supposed to be very good here, but I had already had my fill, so I just ordered an iced black coffee instead (a bargain at 17,000 VND; 50p). The coffee was good, although not outstanding, but the view and the ambience were both excellent.

Đinh Cafe is located at 13 Đinh Tiên Hoàng (Old Quarter). Facebook.

Giang Cafe
When in Hanoi, you have to try one of the fêted egg coffees, which combine coffee, whisked egg yolk and condensed milk. I wasn't convinced I would like it, but several people told me that Giang Cafe, in the heart of the Old Quarter, was the place to give it a go. The cafe is tucked down a little alleyway and early on a weekday morning, the upstairs cafe was heaving. I managed to find a seat at one of the many small, low tables and ordered the coffee (20,000 VND; 60p). It was actually a lot more pleasant than I was expecting: smooth and very creamy, although too sweet for my taste. Giang Cafe itself is rather characterful with a nice ambiance and local artwork on the walls.

Giang Cafe is located at 39 Nguyễn Hữu Huân (Old Quarter). Website.

Maison de Tet Decor
I visited Maison de Tet on the recommendation of Trung from The Espresso Station in Hanoi. It is located on a quiet street overlooking West Lake, a good 45-minute stroll from central Hanoi, but it was well worth the effort. It serves a wide range of single-origin coffees and coffee blends, with beans from Vietnam and further afield, which are roasted on site each day in small batches. Each coffee can be prepared with an impressive variety of brew methods, including espresso-based drinks, pourovers, Vietnamese-style coffee and cold brew.

I was hot and tired when I arrived but the Ethiopian ('Wind') cold brew (60,000 VND; £2) really hit the spot. It was smooth and refreshing, and came with a little serving of honey, which I didn't try, and a biscuit, which I did. I also tried a Vietnamese-style coffee (45,000 VND; £1.40), made using the 'Thunder' coffee (a blend of arabica and robusta coffees from Vietnam). I had the coffee with condensed milk — when in Vietnam, and all that — which was too sweet for my liking, but the coffee was very well prepared.

You can buy bags of beans, and the cafe also serves sweet treats and has an amazing-looking brunch menu. I sat in the cool downstairs patio, but the upstairs section has a great view over the lake; the cafe's interiors, meanwhile, are stylish and chic. I just wished Maison de Tet was a little closer to the city centre so that I could have gone back for brunch.

Maison de Tet Decor is located at 36 Từ Hoa Công Chúa (West Lake). Website. Facebook. Instagram.

Oriberry Coffee
Oriberry is a fair-trade coffee company and social enterprise with a small cafe just opposite St. Joseph's Cathedral. There are a handful of small tables inside and the shop also stocks bags of Oriberry beans and a great selection of beautiful fair-trade ceramics from Indigenous. They had some particularly beautiful monochrome ceramic coffee drippers. They serve Vietnamese-style coffee and espresso drinks. I had a macchiato (35,000 VND; £1.10), which was rich and smooth.

Oriberry Coffee is located at 36 Ấu Triệu (Cathedral District). Website. Twitter.


Update: My fellow coffee blogger Brian, of Brian's Coffee Spot, visited Vietnam in 2017. You can follow some of his coffee discoveries on his blog.

At Second Shot Coffee, Cafe Meets Society (CLOSED)

UPDATE (April 2022). Sadly, Second Shot has now permanently closed.

This weekend sees the opening of a new coffee shop, a generous stone's throw from Bethnal Green Tube station. Second Shot Coffee will serve a range of espresso-based and filter coffees and a selection of locally sourced cakes and sweet treats. So far, so standard, but Julius Ibrahim, Second Shot's founder, has a broader vision that focuses as much on social enterprise as on the quality of its food and drink.

I stopped by during a pre-launch event for press and bloggers and Second Shot was already in great shape a week ahead of the launch. The compact cafe is located on Bethnal Green Road and has just a few small tables, as well as a fold-down perching table; eventually, the plan is to have a bench on the pavement outside. The art, which hadn't quite made it onto the walls during the launch, is sourced from art sessions run by local homeless organisations, with all of the proceeds going to support the artists.

In fact, Second Shot's ambitions to provide support, training, skills and a sense of community to homeless individuals are at the core of what they do and I think the cafe's name captures this philosophy perfectly. Second Shot is partnering with various organisations to hire and train formerly homeless individuals to work in the cafe, and after hours, Ibrahim plans to re-open as a community hub for homelessness.

They aren't the first cafe to offer a pay-it-forward system — whereby a customer can pay £1 for a drink and add the purchase to the pay-it-forward wall for someone else to take later, free of charge. But they are the first that I've seen to allow customers to pay £1 and receive three stamps on a loyalty card that they can hand over to a person in need. You can also 'pay forward' a cake (£2) or a meal (£4).

It was important for Ibrahim, who cut his teeth at Bleecker St Burger, among other places, to ensure that the food and coffee were up to scratch too, though. I tried several drinks: a very fine macchiato and a great flat white, brewed by Head of Coffee, Emilio Rodriguez, using the chocolatey Eden espresso blend from Cast Iron.

They also had five or six different filter coffee varieties on offer, from roasters based in London and further afield. I was intrigued to see a coffee from a Hungarian roaster, but we sampled an Ethiopian variety from Amsterdam-based Sweet Cup. Rodriguez brewed it through the Chemex, which really brought out the subtle strawberry notes. They will serve a continually changing selection of filter coffees, which can be brewed with a V60, Aeropress or Chemex; perfect for filter-heads like me.

Although I wasn't particularly hungry, by the time I'd left, barista Ephy Beckford had persuaded me to try almost all of the cakes they were serving. (OK, I didn't need much persuading!) The individual banana bread loaf (served with its own banana chip garnish) was particularly good — perfectly moist — but I also enjoyed the carrot cake and the brownie. The sweet treats come from Rise Bakery and Luminary Bakery, and the grilled-cheese sarnies will have bread sourced from The Dusty Knuckle.

Second Shot is a small cafe with big ambitions, although the coffee alone is worth the trip to Bethnal Green. Today is their soft launch, ahead of their launch tomorrow, Saturday 21 May, so if you are in the neighbourhood (and even if you aren't), you should consider stopping by.

Second Shot Coffee. 475 Bethnal Green Road, London, E2 9QH (Tube: Bethnal Green).