The Burger Bulletin: Mother Flipper Review

eat.st, N1's most eclectic weekday provider of street food, is now open for business on Tuesdays, as well as the latter three-fifths of the week and last week, I noticed a few new stalls. Beppino's, which sells super-fresh pasta, Mussel Men, which offers moules-frites and oysters, and, most importantly, Mother Flipper. Yes, that's right: there is finally a specialty purveyor of burgers in N1.

Last week, it was cloudy and rainy so I didn't have to wait too long for my cheese burger ("The Mother Flipper"). It was a little too much on the well side of medium for my liking but in my excitement, I did forget to ask for it medium rare. It was still very tasty: meaty and oozing with juices.

Mother Flipper at eat.st

Today, of course, it was 25 degrees and sunny and almost everyone within about a two-mile radius had descended on eat.st and the queue for Mother Flipper was much longer. As we neared the front, some 30 minutes later, we found out that one of the two grills had been broken; not ideal on one of the hottest days of the year so far! The staff are all super-friendly, though, and apologised repeatedly for the delay.This time, I remembered to ask for my burger medium rare but I also forgot to establish the full meaning of The Double Candy Bacon Flipper. I just heard "caramelised bacon" and ordered one. Had I realised it involved two burgers--which should have been obvious from the name, I guess--I might have held off and opted for a cheese burger instead. Still, at £6 for The Double Candy Bacon Flipper and £5 for the mere Mother Flipper, the former is much better value.

Double Candy Bacon Flipper

And today's burger was definitely medium rare. I needed several tissues to clean up the juices, which I liberally dripped all over the floor and--almost--my dress, which is a good sign. The bacon was delicious two, but then I'm a sucker for good, American-style bacon, especially when cured with something sweet and sticky. The bun, a soft, lightly toasted brioche, was also good. The double burger was a little too much even for me, especially with some frites, borrowed from the Mussel Men--not that this prevented me from finishing, of course.

My only slightly complaint is that Mother Flipper doesn't serve fries--you can get them from Mussel Men, but I would prefer a smaller portion included with my burger for an extra quid or so. That said, given the 40-minute wait time today, perhaps the flippers should stick to what they know and just continue to serve flippin' great burgers!

The Mother Flipper menu

Mother Flipper @ eat.st Tuesday lunchtimes (Tube: King's Cross); also at Brockley Market on Saturdays. Website. Twitter.