The Lesser of Two Evils

I've been trying to go to see Godzilla at the cinema since I got back from Japan, but the timing and location of the 2D screenings never seem to work out. Instead then, I went to see something completely different: Hossein Amini's new adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel, The Two Faces of January. The film stars Viggo Mortensen, Kirsten Dunst and Oscar Isaac and is a tense but sultry thriller set mainly in Greece in the early 1960s, and although I enjoyed it, even the strong performance from Mortensen isn't enough to save it from being consigned to film obscurity within a few months.

Mortensen and Dunst play Chester and Colette MacFarland, an American couple apparently on holiday in Athens. We see them strolling around some ruins where they catch sight of a young American (Oscar Isaac) working as a tour guide. The man shows up at the same restaurant as the MacFarlands later that day and we learn that his name is Rydal, he has left his motherland to avoid his daddy issues and that he has a sideline in scamming American tourists out of a few dollars.

Although Chester and Rydal mistrust each other — a sentiment that is not helped by the obvious attraction between Rydal and Colette — actions from Chester's past begin to catch up on him in such a way that drives the three characters together as the MacFarlands seek Rydal's help and they all head over to Crete. None of them can relax, however, and the tension builds by the scene, just as the glorious sunshine and spectacular Greek landscapes grow ever more idyllic.

Amini's film is punctuated by moments of sudden and intense action, but it retains an almost languorous pace as we — and the characters — try to work out what has happened and whom to trust (if anyone). Everything ticked along nicely and the ride was entertaining and intriguing, but somehow by the end, I was left feeling slightly underwhelmed. 

Mortensen, of course, did his usual gruff, austere and troubled act, but Dunst didn't have a lot to do and Isaac's character ended up seeming like too much of a cypher. The Two Faces of January is very stylish, but sadly seems to lack some of the substance that could have made it a great film.

On the plus, I was glad to finally visit the Shortwave Cinema in Bermondsey. It's now my closest cinema and I've been meaning to go since I moved to the area, but had only managed to check out the (excellent) bar previously. The screen is, er, intimate, but I enjoyed the experience and will do my best to support the venue a little more consistently in the future.

Antico Antics (CLOSED)

Update (January 2018): Antico has now closed, but in its place is lovely pasta-and-wine restaurant Flour & Grape. 214, the downstairs gin bar, is still open and remains one of my favourite bars in London.

Well, I've been back in the UK for over a week now, so it's probably time for me to start blogging about London again. Last night, I went for dinner with my family to Antico (CLOSED), which hugs the southern corner of Bermondsey Street at the junction with Long Lane. I've enjoyed numerous cocktails at Antico's basement gin joint, 214, but hadn't eaten at the restaurant before. To be fair, it takes a while to work through all of Bermondsey Street's good restaurants, even if you're a local like me.

We booked through OpenTable, which was offering 25% off if you have at least two courses and sit down to eat between 6 and 7 pm, which sounded like a good deal. Although the restaurant was relatively quiet when we arrived at 6.30, by the time we left, the place was bustling and with only a few spare tables. It's always a good idea to book a table if you're eating on Bermondsey Street on a week night.

I was pleased to discover that I could order from the cocktail menu at 214. Unfortunately, they didn't have a crucial ingredient in the SE1 Sour I wanted, so I had a Bramble instead — not really much of a sacrifice, especially when it looked so pretty in pink in its highball glass. If you get the chance, do go downstairs for a drink or two in the bar. They have the most amazing gin collection and the gin flights are particularly good.

Antico's menu is modern Italian, mainly simple but well thought out pasta and meat dishes. Starters aren't usually my favourite course, but here I was torn between three. In the end, the prawn fritti with chilli won out and they were really tasty. Not quite as good as the numerous prawn tempura I consumed in Japan, but with fresh, succulent fish and a nice crispy batter. I could just as easily have had the burrata salad, though, or even the carpaccio of beef.

Although I was tempted by the slow-roasted pork shoulder tortelloni (I tried one of my mum's and it was delicious), my brother and I shared the forerib of beef, a great hunk of meat that was juicy and flavoursome and perfectly medium rare. It came with a very small rocket salad, some hunks of parmesan and a salsa verde but no carbs. With hindsight, we might have ordered some potatoes, although we certainly weren't short of food.

When pudding o'clock (my favourite time) rolled around, we were all pretty full but somehow found room for a third course. I couldn't resist the chocolate, hazelnut and almond cake, which was moist and rich. Best of all, it was served with chocolate popping candy on top, which gave it an unexpected and delightful sensation. The others had lemon tarts and a berry panna cotta, all of which looked great.

Antico might get less attention than some of its newer neighbours, but the food is great, the service friendly and the vibe somehow bustling but laid-back. In other words, a great little neighbourhood Italian restaurant. And did I mention the gin speakeasy in the basement?!

Antico. 214 Bermondsey Street, London, SE1 3TQ (Tube: Borough or London Bridge). CLOSED

How To Spend 10 Days in Japan: Itinerary & Travel Guide

I started planning my trip to Japan almost a year ago and booked my flights during BA's Christmas sale, but I only really got down to fleshing out the details a couple of months before I left. I booked only a ten-day trip because I was worried it was going to be very expensive, but it was a lot more affordable than I expected, especially outside Tokyo. 

My Japan Shopping Tips

Part of the reason I took a slightly bigger than cabin-approved suitcase to Japan was so that I could indulge in a little retail therapy if the mood took me. I was particularly looking forward to a) the stationery and b) the weird and wonderful 'only in Japan' type items. Here are a few of my favourite places.

The Japan Caffeine Chronicles: Tokyo, Kyoto & Miyajima

Make no mistake: Japan is a tea country, and when coffee is available, it's often served iced. However, coffee fans shouldn't despair because it is possible to find places that serve good specialty coffee coffee, even in the unlikeliest of locations. It's all about the research, and I did a fair amount so you don't have to!

Miyajima & Tokyo: Ittekimasu, Nihon!

It was a lovely experience to spend Saturday night in a traditional Japanese ryokan, Ryoso Kawaguchi, although the noisy Spanish group in the next room seemed to be ignorant of how well sound travels through such thin walls. Yesterday morning, I rose early and went out in search of coffee, this time visiting Cafe Sarasvati, just down the road from my ryokan. 

Hiroshima & Miyajima: Miyajima, Mon Amour

It was another early start this morning so that I could spend half the day in Hiroshima — just two hours from Kyoto by bullet train — before taking the ferry to Miyajima, where I am spending the night. My biggest concern of the day (of the trip, in fact) was that there weren't going to be any big lockers available at Hiroshima station and that I would have to drag my suitcase around the city and onto the ferry. I shouldn't have worried; there were plenty on platform 1, from which the train to Miyajimaguchi leaves.