A fascinating city in its own right, Almaty is also the gateway to many of Kazakhstan's most impressive natural wonders. I visited several of them on an excellent two-day group tour to Charyn Canyon and Lakes Kolsai and Kaindy. There was even time for yurt karaoke (yurt-aoke, if you will).
Whenever I travel solo, I like to build in a group tour or two. It's a great way to meet like-minded travellers from around the world, while saving money and visiting places that would be tricky to reach without a car.
Almaty has a wealth of accesible day trips, from the rewarding hike to Big Almaty Lake to excursions to Lake Issyk and Shymbulak Ski Resort. You can even take a day trip Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, which some of my friends did and highly recommend.
Short on time, I decided to go for a two-day trip that packed in one blockbuster natural wonder after another, combining visits to Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes and Charyn Canyon. It even included an overnight stay in a yurt, a traditional Central Asian dwelling.
We left Almaty at 8 am on the first day, returning around 8 pm the next day. Some operators cram a similar itinerary into one day but I'd advise against this: you'll leave Almaty before dawn and get back late at night, with much less time to enjoy the places you're visiting.
Tour details
I booked my tour with Kazakhstan Guided Tours through GetYourGuide, where it was the top-rated excursion to Charyn Canyon and Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes. I paid £118 (about US $160), which included four meals (two lunches, one dinner and one breakfast) and shared accommodation in a four-person yurt.
If you prefer your own digs, it's only US $50 extra per yurt for 1–3 people, though they can only confirm availability on the day of the tour. I was in money-saving mode when I booked and slightly regretted not booking the private option, but my yurt, shared with two other women, worked out great.
We got an email the day before with the final details, including how much money to bring. 10,000 KZT (£16.50) was more than enough cash for me, but you may need more if you want to do any activities or buy from local vendors. And don't forget your passport as the tour goes close to the Kyrgyzstan border.
There are several pick-up points in Almaty. I chose Novotel Living Almaty Jetisu, which was near my second hotel, Urban Yurt. We received pick-up times the night before day; 7:30 am in my case. And you can bring a larger bag or suitcase; they'll store it in the hold.
I'm used to taking small-group tours with only four to 15 other guests. There were more than 30 of us on this tour — and it regularly sells out. Our excellent guide Bibi helped us all bond with some ice-breakers, kept us on time and ensured we had a lot of fun along the way.
Day 1
By the time we'd all checked in and boarded the bus, it was 8 am and we drove straight out of the city. We made a pit stop at a gas station to stock up on snacks, use the bathroom and withdraw some Kazakhstani cash. I paid by credit card everywhere in Almaty but we were advised to have cash for any optional activities like horse riding.
While enjoying the scenery, we got to know our tour-mates. I was sitting next to two lovely Brits, Gemma and Rob, originally from Staffordshire, and we got on really well. Thailand, the Philippines, Korea, Brazil, Australia, the UAE, India and Pakistan were among the other nationalities represented in our group.
Canyon hopping
Before long, we'd reached our first stop: Moon Canyon in Charyn Canyon National Park. We had about 20 minutes to stretch our legs and find the best photo spots as we walked along the rim, looking down into the River Charyn.
The canyon is named for its lunar-like landscape and the intricately sculpted reddish rocks stood in stark contrast to the verdant river and autumnal-hued trees.
Next up was a visit to nearby Black Canyon, where the views were just as impressive. As well as using the loo or picking up more snacks, you could ride on a big swing (it was like Bali all over again!) or indulge in a little light falconry. Ken Loach would approve!
Lunch with Shakira
As we drove, the scenery changed dramatically: vast, arid plains with grazing horses one minute and looming mountains the next. We stopped at a local honey stand. Their wares weren't really cabin-baggage-approved, so I just minded my own beeswax.
We stopped for lunch at at 1:30 pm at a large yurt in a village. Our host was one Mrs Shakira ("don't mention the music," Bibi noted). There was a huge spread, with everything from plov (the traditional Central Asian rice dish) to chicken soup and the many sweets that are found at the table when Kazakh people have guests.
This was also when I unwittingly tried qurt. The innocuous-looking white balls were placed next to all the candy and sweet treats. I realised too late that they are not, in fact, sweet but made of dried fermented milk. An acquired taste, for sure! Luckily, there was plenty of tea on hand.
Kolsai Lakes National Park
Energised by our hearty lunch, we boarded the bus and drove to Kolsai Lakes National Park, where we would be spending the afternoon. There are three Kolsai Lakes but we only had time to visit the lower lake.
It was a short walk from the car park to the lake. The morning's sunshine had faded into cloudier skies but the view was still very striking: the vibrant deep green of the lake, fringed with spruce trees, contrasted with the distant snow-capped mountains.
We had about 90 minutes to explore: Bibi advised us to take the right-hand lakeside path for a quieter experience or the left path for a cafe with a wonderful view. I opted for the latter and Tary Cafe is indeed one of the most stunning locations I've ever had coffee. I even tried a camel-milk cappuccino!
Sleeping in a yurt
Our accommodation for the night was 30 minutes' drive, at Green Valley Yurts Kolsay, just outside Saty village. After unloading our bags from the bus, we headed to our yurts. Most people had booked private yurts, which meant I was only sharing mine with Bibi and one other female guest.
It was very cosy, with lots of bedding, lights and bedside power points. There was some heating overnight, which was lucky as the temperature dropped to around 1C (35F). I slept in a thermal top and leggings and was perfectly warm. I brought noise-cancelling headphones but didn't need them.
But I'm getting ahead of myself! After we arrived and had got settled in, we headed to the dining yurt where another huge spread had been laid on (and, yes, more candy!). The main dish was beshbarmak: flat, wide noodles served with beef and potatoes, which was tasting and filling.
After dinner, it was time for yurt karaoke. As I'm a terrible singer, I was quite nervous. But after representatives of the other countries had had their turn, Gemma and I found ourselves taking one for the UK team with our rendition of Wonderwall. I suspect we won't be getting the call-up for the next Eurovision!
We then retired to the campfire, where the glow from the flames covered up my blushes. I went to bed around 10 pm, tired but happy after an action-packed but fun-filled day.
Day 2
I woke up at 6 am and, as my yurt-mates were still sleeping, I fumbled around in the semi-dark to find my shower things. There was a separate shower and toilet block and I was worried that there would be a big queue and/or limited hot water, but the showers were vacant and the water hot.
After freshening up, I walked down to the nearby stream where several of my tour-mates were hanging out. There was a little frost on the ground, which was exciting for some of the Southeast Asia crew who had never seen snow before. I agreed that it was rather cold (thanks to Angelo for the photo).
Beyond the mountains was the Kyrgyzstan border — we were so close, in fact, that my iPhone automatically updated the time zone of my photos. After breakfast (and coffee from the espresso machine!), we packed up, took a group photo and boarded the bus.
Kaindy Lake
I found out later that we had a stowaway: one of the three adorable yurt kittens had sneaked into the luggage hold and had to be taken home by car!
We had about two hours at Kaindy Lake. Some people opted for a horseback ride, but I chose to take the 20-minute hike to the lake shore. Kaindy means 'birch tree lake' but the lake is actually best known for the submerged spruce trees — the result of a landslide.
Unlike yesterday, the sun was shining, and the water was a clear green-turquoise colour. It wasn't the best time for photography, though, as we were shooting into the sunshine. And given the limited space at the viewpoints there were a few too many extended photo shoots and drone flights for my liking.
Gemma, Rob and I hiked up instead to one of the higher viewpoints where we could look down on the lake. It's a really beautiful place but if you have more flexibility, I think the light would be better in the afternoon.
Charyn Canyon
We stopped for lunch again at Mrs Shakira's — and this time we knew the drill. Kudos to Mrs Shakira for putting on such a feast for big groups of hungry tourists!
After another hour-long drive, we reached Charyn Canyon at around 2:30 pm. This time we were visiting the main canyon and we had 2.5 hours of free time to explore. Bibi led us all over to the canyon rim.
She explained that we could either walk along the rim, walk along the base or take an unofficial shortcut. Most of us, of course, went for the shortcut. It was a short but steep and quite slippery hike down to the base — my legs were getting flashbacks to my descent of Volcán Acatenango in Guatemala!
It took us about 35 minutes to reach the end of the path, where we encountered the surprisingly fast-flowing River Charyn. The views were incredible: the reddish-orange colours of the rock formations looked even more beautiful against the clear blue sky. And the diverse shapes served as a de facto Rorschach test.
The walk back along the canyon floor to the official entrance/exit route (via steps) was just as gorgeous, as the light softened into the most golden of golden hours. If you don't fancy the walk back, there are lots of 'taxis' (Soviet-era trucks) that will give you a lift; you'll need to pay cash for this.
Back at the top, I took a few minutes to enjoy the beauty of this place. I've never been to the Grand Canyon but you can see why they call this the Grand Canyon of Central Asia.
I also met a couple on bikes and asked where they were riding from and to. It turns out they're cycling from Portugal to New Zealand, but will break for the winter in Almaty. You can follow their progress on Instagram.
The return to Almaty
The bus was much quieter on the 2.5-hour journey back for Almaty. I for one dozed off a couple of times. We stopped at another gas station to pick up a makeshift dinner, given that we weren't going to get back to Almaty until 8 pm.
And in case you were wondering about staying connected, our bus had wifi (you had to pay a small charge to use it), as did Green Valley Yurts. I just used mobile data on the Beeline network through my Nomad eSIM.
Data speeds were a bit slow in the more remote places but my prolific Instagram Stories throughout the trip attest how well connected I was! Want to try an eSIM on your next trip? Sign up to Nomad using my referral code REBEXSAXQK and we both get $5 credit.
Is it worth visiting Charyn Canyon and Kolsai Lakes?
If you only have time for one side trip while in Almaty, I think the two-day Charyn Canyon & Kolsai Lakes tour is a really good choice as it combines lakes, canyons and a yurt stay.
The two days were pretty full on but this Kazakhstan Guided Tours trip was very well organised. We had plenty of free time at each location, meals were filling and our yurt accommodation comfortable. I had a fab time!
I usually avoid big group tours but this one was really enjoyable: everyone was considerate and punctual and we had a lot of fun together. Our guide Bibi deserves a lot of the credit for this. Thank you, Bibi!
If you have more time and a bigger budget, you could book a private three-day tour instead or hire a driver. This would make for a more relaxed trip and allow you to time your visits to different locations based on the light and weather, and avoid some of the bigger crowds.
Of course, this just means I'll have to come back to Almaty to see Big Almaty Lake, Lake Issyk and Shymbulak Ski Resort. Maybe I'll combine it with a trip to Kyrgyzstan!
Check out my other Central Asia travel guides: Almaty city guide, Almaty specialty coffee guide, Tashkent city guide, Tashkent specialty coffee guide, Khiva guide, Bukhara guide, Samarkand guide, 10 days in Uzbekistan guide, packing for two weeks in Central Asia.
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