When Central Asia featured on the latest series of Race Across the World, it was the push I needed to book a long-awaited two-week trip to Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. My first stop was Almaty, Kazakhstan's fascinating former capital, where I spent five days.
Almaty ('place of apples') is the located in the foothills of the Tian Shan mountains in southeastern Kazakhstan. The modern city was founded in 1854, though archaeological evidence points to a settlement there as early as the 10th or 11th century.
The 19th and 20th centuries were turbulent times for Almaty, with two major earthquakes, Imperial Russian and then Soviet rule all leaving their marks on the city, before Kazakhstan gained its independence in 1991.
Today, Almaty is Kazakhstan's largest city, a cultural hub with Imperialist and modernist architecture fringed with parks and leafy pedestrianised streets. You can see Almaty's highlights in three days, but a four- or five-day stay means you can also take a day trip to a lake, a canyon or even Kyrgyzstan!
FUN THINGS TO DO IN ALMATY
Explore the Golden Quarter
Almatians quibble over where the city centre lies but the Golden Quarter is where you'll find most of the main landmarks. Its name comes from the high-ranking officials who got to live there during the Soviet era.
To explore the Golden Quarter, I took a walking tour with Antonina from Walking Almaty. I don't take many private walking tours but fellow blogger Adventurous Kate's recommendation persuaded me to book.
Antonina's tour was an excellent introduction to Almaty, its history (with a focus on the 20th century) and culture. We started at the monument to Abai Qunanbaiuly, 19th century writer, philosopher and foundational figure of modern Kazakhstan.
Close by is the iconic Kazakhstan Hotel, the city's first skyscraper, which opened in 1977 after testing with an earthquake machine. All rooms face south (towards the Tian Shan mountains), while the 'crown' on top is really wheat stalks (because Communism).
We also saw the zodiac fountain that features a snail not a dragon, the tragic love story depicted in a mosaic on the cruise-ship-like Almaty Hotel, the monument to rock legend, Victor Tsoi, and much more. Along the way, Antonina shared stories about Almaty life and gave me lots of tips for things to do and places to eat.
Visit Ascension Cathedral and Panfilov Park
Almaty is a very green city, even in early October after a harsh summer, and has many lovely parks and tree-lined walking streets.
The crown jewel is 28 Panfilov Guardsmen Park, where you can sit and watch the world go by or visit the canary-hued Ascension Cathedral. I've been spoiled by Gaudí this year, but it's lovely inside the cathedral, especially when the afternoon light hits the stained glass.
Remember to dress respectfully inside: for women this means covering your hair, shoulders and knees. They usually have shawls available to borrow.
Shop for apples (and more) at the Green Bazar
Almaty is thought to be the birthplace of modern apples so you should definitely find an apple store (lower case) while in town. Keep an eye out for the colourful, Almaty-themed apple sculptures too!
The Green Bazar (closed on Mondays) is a great place to shop for local apples — look for the 'Aport' variety (Апорт in Cyrllic) — and other produce, from bread and nuts to qurt. The latter are small balls of dry fermented cheese; they're definitely an acquired taste!
There are souvenir shops outside the market, but I found better quality handmade items at Nomad Art, near Almaty Hotel; I bought a yurt ornament, snow leopard and felt earrings. I also shopped at Art & Fact, Dump Gallery 101 and Sinichki, and was tempted by the 'build your own yurt' kit at this store!
Ride the Kok Tobe cable car
I love me a cable car and riding the cable car to the top of Kok Tobe Hill is a wonderful activity, especially at golden hour. It costs 10,000 KZT (~£16) return, though you can also opt to walk, take a bus or ride a high-speed luge back down.
I visited on a sunny day but it was hazy at the top (possibly because the city's central heating had been turned on and air quality wasn't great), but the view over the city and the Tian Shan mountains was still nice. On clearer days, you could try the ferris wheel or head up the Almaty Tower.
Check out Almaty's modern art...
Almaty Museum of Arts (closed on Mondays) is located in a large, modernist building to the south of the city centre. While I was there, they had a selection of Kazakhstani and international modern art, including an exhibition from the late, great Yayoi Kusama.
Their gift shop is a good place to buy unique souvenirs and gifts (including locally produced candles and jewellery), and I had a tasty meal in their restaurant, Cafe Alma.
For more modern art, keep your eyes peeled on the streets of Almaty. Once considered too counter-culture, more and more murals have appeared since 2017. My favourite was the snow leopard, the symbol of Almaty.
...and Metro art
Riding the Almaty Metro has to the cheapest paid-for tourist activity in the city. A ride on the Metro costs just 120 KZT (£0.20) and many stations have beautiful murals and striking design features.
There's only one line, with 11 stations, so it's easy to visit them all, though a little time-consuming, as trains only run every 10–13 minutes. My favourites were Almaly (with apple artwork), Baikonur (space station themed) Auezov Theater (cultural imagery) and Saryarqa (mosaics featuring Saryarqa nature).
You can pay with a contactless payment card or just buy a token. Once you're through security and in the system, you can visit as many stations as you like for a single fare. Walking Almaty does guided tours for a more in-depth experience.
Immerse yourself in Kazakhstani history
While searching for things to do in Almaty on a Monday, I was pleased to find the Central State Museum of Kazakhstan open (it closes on Tuesdays). The huge museum is almost 200 years old and traces the country's history from Stone Age life on the Steppe to the present day.
Some sections are a little dry but there are English translations for most exhibits. I particularly enjoyed the section on Kazakhstan's 120+ ethnic groups, stepping inside a yurt for the first time and the contemporary paintings by local people sharing what they love about their city.
Scrub up at Arasan Bath House
I always love a spa day and visiting Arasan Baths proved to be quite the experience. It was the cheapest, if not the most relaxing, spa day I've ever had, though I did feel very clean by the end!
Set inside a large modernist building, there are separate sections for men and women, each with a Finnish sauna, steam room, Russian banya and dipping pool. Everyone goes nude but you can take a small towel to sit on or cover up between rooms.
It cost me 5,400 KZT (£9) for a one-hour session, including rental of pool slippers and a towel and purchase of a bathing cap (required for the pool).
I knew not much English was spoken so I'd tried to do my research in advance on best practice, but I still managed to lock my things in the wrong locker (use the one that matches the number on your wrist band!). Luckily, a kind English-speaking visitor translated to the staff for me so I could retrieve my belongings.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN ALMATY
I wasn't too familiar with Kazakh cuisine before my trip but soon embraced the beshbarmak (meat served over wide noodles), manti (steamed dumplings) and hearty soups. Although meat features prominently in most dishes, many eateries — especially more modern ones — also have vegetarian options.
I rarely spent more than 6,000 KZT (£10) for a main course, salad/starter and soft drink. Note too that food usually comes out all at once, even if you think you are ordering separate courses. Here are some of the places I enjoyed eating at (most have English menus and some staff that speak a little English).
Navat. This chain of restaurants is a great starting point for visitors who want to get a taste for Central Asian food. I ate at the location near my hotel on Makataev Street, which has colourful traditional décor and tables and booths set across two floors.
After trying horse milk (not for me!), I skipped the Women's Happiness Salad (!) in favour of an aromatic red soup with chuchvara (mini dumplings), followed by beshbarmak (the national dish) with beef. The pineapple lemonade here was great. Note that in Central Asia, if you don't specify a small drink, you'll often get a 1-litre serving!
Bauyrdaq. My tour guide described Bauyrdaq as Kazakh fast food and my burger definitely fit the bill. I went for the beef option, which was served in a traditional baursak bun and came with beef broth and fries. With cute décor, this is a great spot for a casual lunch or dinner.
Cafe Alma. Located inside Almaty Museum of Arts, this all-day eatery serves elevated Kazakh fusion food. I had a delicious chicken schnitzel with a local tomato and onion achichuk salad. On each table is a guide to all the artworks on display.
Sandyq. This was my most expensive meal in Kazakhstan and it still only cost just over £20, including service, and £8 of that was the priciest apple juice I've ever tried (it was freshly pressed with local Aport apples and was delicious).
The restaurant is a lovely place for a special meal, with its beautiful interiors, featuring traditional art and crafts. My main course — braised horse with crispy potatoes — was delicious. I was wary about trying horse but the meat was beautifully cooked: tender and flavoursome. That said, I was happy to switch back to beef at my next meal.
Lanzhou Noodle. I struggled with the language barrier at this casual Kazakh–Uygur eatery — there were no English menus and the pictured bowls of hand-pulled noodles with meat all looked pretty similar to me. But I managed to order noodles with beef and they were cheap, tasty and filling. I saved laghman noodles for Uzbekistan!
If you have time, Auyl is worth the Yandex ride out of the city to the Medeu Mountains. Several people I met on tours said the food was great and setting very special.
I also enjoyed a few snacks and pastries during my trip. The сосиска в тесте (sausage roll) was my favourite. Some were more Greggs standard, but the one I tried at Fika would definitely have gotten props from Paul and Nigella or their Kazakh equivalents!
One-third of adults in Almaty either abstain from alcohol or don't drink regularly. I wasn't drinking alcohol during my trip, so I enjoyed the many non-alcoholic drinks on offer, from fruit teas to flavoured lemonades. Plus apple juice, of course!
Kazakhstan has a longstanding tea-drinking culture, but Almaty also has a burgeoning specialty coffee scene. I'll be writing a separate guide to the best coffee shops in the city but in the meantime, Born Brave, Massimo and Tereze were among my favourites.
WHERE TO STAY IN ALMATY
Accommodation in Almaty is generally very affordable for many Western tourists. Staying in the area between the Green Bazar in the north and Hotel Kazakhstan in the south will put you within walking distance of most of Almaty's main attractions.
I wouldn't usually move hotels on a short stay but my two-day trip to Charyn Canyon meant I had to check out and then check back in anyway, so I decided to try two different mid-range hotels in Almaty.
My favourite was Urban Yurt, a modern boutique hotel in a great location close to Panfilov Park, Zhibek Zholy Metro and a wealth of eateries and shops. I paid about £60 a night and the hotel was very well-equipped with everything from free laundry facilities, to rain jackets, a scale to weigh your luggage and a coffee shop.
My room was very cosy — even more so than the actual yurt I'd stayed in the night before — spacious and quiet. There is no elevator but walking up the stairs helped me work off some of the hearty Kazakh food I'd been eating.
I also stayed at D'Rami, located in a small apartment building in the heart of the Golden Quarter. While slightly more basic, my room (£38 per night) was quiet, clean and comfortable. As my flight landed at 4 am, I booked my room for the night before so I could have a nap, and the staff were ready to welcome me.
For a higher-end option, consider staying at the Hotel Kazakhstan or Qazaq Auyl Eco Hotel, in a stunning setting a few miles south of Almaty (one of my tour-mates spoke highly of the hotel and its accompanying restaurant).
DAY TRIPS FROM ALMATY
Almaty's location close to several beautiful national parks means there are various fun day trips or two-day trips within easy reach.
I took an excellent two-day group tour to the stunning reddish landscapes of Charyn Canyon, the vibrant green Kolsai and Kaindy mountain lakes. The trip included a yurt stay — and yurt-eoke! I'll be writing a separate post about my experience but suffice it to say, I had a lot of fun.
My friends from the Charyn Canyon tour (spot them waving in the canyon photo above!) also enjoyed day trips to Big Almaty Lake — a strenuous hike but worth it for the views of the insanely turquoise lake at the top — and Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan (for a quick visit to another country).
Lake Issyk is another option and if you're a ski bunny or enjoy cable cars, you could also pay a visit to Shymbulak Ski Resort, 15 miles southeast of Almaty.
GETTING THERE
Almaty International Airport is 10 miles north of the city. As my flight was arriving very early, I pre-booked a taxi transfer with my hotel, which cost 9,000 KZT (about £15). The journey took about 25 minutes.
On my way back, I used Yandex Go (a local equivalent of Uber; download the app before you leave home to ensure you can activate your account and add Apple Pay or a credit card), which cost 3,000 KZT (£5).
Be cautious of taxi scams at the airport. Some friends I met while travelling were tricked into paying £60 for a ride to the city by a driver who seemingly had an official badge and credentials. The price he quoted was shown on the meter, but that ended up being the starting fare.
GETTING AROUND
Central Almaty is compact and I walked almost everywhere, sometimes hopping on the Metro (120 KZT, or £0.20) or booking a ride with Yandex Go. I set up the latter with Apple Pay, and rarely paid more than about 2,500 KZT (£4) for a ride within the city centre.
I also highly recommend downloading the Yandex Maps app, which makes navigating on foot, by car or by public transport much easier than with Google Maps, which doesn't have updated route info. Metro routes, for example, didn't show up in Google Maps.
ALMATY AT A GLANCE
Location
Almaty is the largest city in Kazakhstan, with a population of 2.4 million. It's located in the southeast of the country, close to the border with Kyrgyzstan.
When to go
April/early May and September/early October are the best months to visit, offering warm, sunny days and cooler nights — in stark contrast to the extreme heat of summer months and freezing winter temperatures.
Hotels and tours get busier during high season and prices can be a little higher but Kazakhstan is still a very affordable country for many visitors.
Languages
Kazakh, a Turkic language, is the national language while Russian also holds official language status. While some English is spoken, especially in tourist areas, try to learn a little Kazakh (raqmet = 'thank you') and download Russian in Google Translate. Cyrillic is being phased out but learning it helped me parse signs and menus.
Time zone
Kazakhstan is five hours ahead of GMT, five hours ahead of London and 10 ahead of New York (four hours and nine hours ahead, respectively, during daylight savings time, which Kazakhstan doesn't observe).
Money
Kazakhstani Tenge (KZT or ₸). During my visit, 1GBP was worth 605 KZT (1 USD = 455 KZT). I paid by credit card or contactless almost everywhere in Almaty: I only needed cash for markets and tour guide tips, plus small purchases in Charyn Canyon. Tipping isn't expected at restaurants but some have a service charge.
Not all ATMs accept foreign cards: Kaspi ATMs didn't work for me but I could withdraw money from Halyk Bank. I love the snow leopard on the 10,000 KZT note but at £16.50, it's an expensive souvenir.
Wifi/mobile data
Although many tourist spots have free wifi, it can be spotty so I strongly recommend getting a local SIM or eSIM for your trip to Kazakhstan: you'll need data for navigating and booking taxis with Yandex, translating menus and much more.
You can buy a local SIM at the airport but as I was arriving very early in the morning I wanted to get mine set up in advance. I used a Nomad eSIM, which cost about £6 for a 30-day 5GB eSIM. It was super-easy to set up and I had great coverage in Almaty, and decent coverage in the mountains, mainly through the Beeline network.
Want to try an eSIM on your next trip? Sign up to Nomad using my referral code — REBEXSAXQK — and we both get $5 credit.
Electricity
Kazakhstan uses type C (two round pins) plug sockets, also used in many European countries.
Dressing respectfully
Check out my other Central Asia travel guides: Almaty specialty coffee guide, Charyn Canyon & Kolkay, Tashkent city guide, Tashkent specialty coffee guide, Khiva guide, Bukhara guide, Samarkand guide, 10 days in Uzbekistan guide, packing for two weeks in Central Asia.
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