After spending the summer exploring the best beaches near London, it was time for a more autumnal day trip. With its moated castle — the childhood home of Anne Boleyn — and beautiful grounds, set around a lake, Hever Castle & Gardens fit the bill perfectly. Better still, it's only an hour from London Bridge.
Located in Kent, Hever Castle dates back to the 14th century and was converted into a manor in 1462 by Geoffrey Boleyn. His rather more famous great-granddaughter, Anne Boleyn, grew up at Hever and went on to become the ill-fated second wife of Henry VIII and mother of Elizabeth I.
After the Boleyn family fell out of favour, Hever passed to another of Henry's ex-wives — Anne of Cleves (whose childhood home in Germany I visited this year). Flash forward to 1903 and Hever was bought by William Waldorf Astor, who restored the buildings, adding a Tudor village (now used for weddings and events) and the Italian gardens.
I blame my dad — well, and A-level history — for my fascination with the Tudors. Long-term readers may remember my snarky recaps of a certain TV show. In any event, a pilgrimage to the Boleyn family seat was long overdue. But there's more to Hever than history: its gardens and lakeside grounds make it a lovely day out from London.
How to get to Hever Castle
Hever Castle is located 35 miles south of London. Trains to Hever run every hour from London Bridge during the daytime. The journey takes about 40 minutes and an off-peak day return costs £16.50 (£10.95 with a Network Railcard) at the time of writing.
I walked to the castle from Hever Station along the roads and public footpaths, following the small red Hever Castle signs. It can get muddy in the fields, so it's best to wear good walking shoes.
From the station road, turn right onto Chippens Lane, then cross the road and access the public footpath next to the gate. Before long, you'll come to the King Henry VIII pub and the castle is just around the corner. If you are coming by car, there's lots of free and accessible parking.
Stepping into Tudor history
I paid £28.40 for a ticket to the castle and gardens, while gardens-only tickets are £22.20. You can save about £3 if you book online. "How did you hear about Hever?" asked the friendly woman at the ticket office. "History," I said. "Well, quite," she replied.
All ticketed-up, I headed to the castle, which looked particularly fetching with ivy climbing over the portcullis and ducks swimming in the moat.
I picked up an audioguide (included in the price) and made my way around the rooms. The ground floor focuses on the Astor family and the 20th-century refurbishment, although the impressive Great Hall is decked out in 16th-century splendour.
Upstairs, the Boleyn Apartment is styled in the way it might have looked when Anne and her family lived here. There is a smaller dining hall, bed chambers and Anne's book of hours, as well as a long gallery with portraits of notable figures from the Wars of the Roses and Tudor period.
Anne Boleyn is one of the best-known women in Tudor history, but we don't really know what she looked like. The 'Capturing the Queen' exhibition invites you to look at different groups of portraits and the evidence for why each might be the best representation of Anne's image.
At the end, you can vote for the group you think fits best. I voted for the most popular option, it turned out! There were also costumes from different portrayals of Anne, including one of her dresses from The Tudors and another from the excellent musical Six.
Exploring Hever's gardens
Once I'd brushed up on Tudor history, it was time to check out the grounds. Hever is delightful in early autumn: the leaves are starting to turn but the rose garden was still in bloom. There's a programme of 'Autumn Colour' talks and workshops too.
Hever also has plenty of fun activities for kids of all ages. I just about managed to escape from the hedge maze and stay dry while solving the water maze! There's an adventure playground and you can try your hand (literally) at archery or falconry.
In the summer, jousting tournaments give a flavour of Tudor England (minus the gore). My brother and his family have been and highly recommend them. And if you're looking for a gift for the historian (or Anglophile) in your life, the gift shop is very well stocked!
A lakeside stroll
The lake at the heart of Hever's grounds is a peaceful place to stroll if the weather is nice. It took me about 40 minutes to walk all the way around, but there are lots of places to stop and look out for birds and other wildlife or just enjoy the view.
If you think you'll get peckish along the way, take a picnic or stock up at one of the cafes and food stalls near the castle. You can also hire rowboats and motorboats from the elegant, honeyed-stone Loggia next to the Italian Garden.
Lunch with Henry VIII (sort of)
There are a few casual dining spots within Hever Castle but I headed across the road to the historic King Henry VIII pub for lunch. It's best to book if you want to sit in the dining room or garden, but there were several tables available for walk-ins in the bar.
The menu is fairly standard pub fare. I was tempted by the fish and chips, but ended up going for a tasty beetroot and hummus baguette. Service was a bit slow (it was late lunch on a Saturday), but I wasn't in a rush and enjoyed soaking up the history and ambiance.
Staying at Hever
If a day at Hever isn't enough, you can make the visit feel even more like a Tudor escape by staying overnight at Hever Castle. The castle's lodgings have all the modern comforts in a historic setting and give you the chance to linger after the day visitors have left.
With more time in the area, you could also visit nearby Chiddingstone, where there's another castle and a Tudor village; you can walk from Hever in about 40 minutes (follow the footpath through St Peter's Churchyard) or drive in 10 minutes. The historic spa town of Royal Tunbridge Wells is also worth a visit.
Planning a trip to London? Explore my other guides and resources:
🇬🇧 52 fun things to do in London
☕ My London specialty coffee guide
🍴 My favourite London restaurants
🍳 London brunch guide
🍸 London cocktail bar guide
📍 How to spend a long weekend in London
🏛 Neighbourhood guides: Bermondsey; East London; King's Cross; Notting Hill
🚃 Best day trips from London
🏖 Best beaches near London
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