I've been to Paris many times over the past four decades, but somehow it had been almost nine years since my last trip. Milestone birthday celebrations brought me back with my family last week and it was as though I'd never been away. We spent just over 48 hours exploring old haunts and pastures new — while trying to stay cool in the heatwave!
I was travelling with my parents, my brother, his wife and their young kids, so the pace was a little different from my usual solo visits to Paris. But taking it easier was no bad thing, especially when it was over 30C the entire time. It ended up being a perfect mix of family fun and solo side quests (mostly specialty coffee shop hopping for me!).
For more inspiration, check out my other Paris blog posts and guides.
WHERE TO STAY IN PARIS
Although I love shopping and dining on the Rive Droite (Right Bank), especially the Marais and the 10th and 11th arrondissements, I prefer to stay on the Rive Gauche (Left Bank). The area around Saint-Germain-des-Prés in the 6th arrondissement is my favourite: it's one of my favourite neighbourhoods for wandering.
This time, we stayed at Hôtel Grand Cœur Latin, a chic boutique hotel just off the Boulevard Saint-Michel, across the road from the Jardin du Luxembourg. My top floor room was small but elegant and comfortable, while the spacious junior suite worked out great for my brother's family.
There's an attractive lounge and bar area on the ground floor, but the real hero — especially given the hot weather — was the gorgeous Roman Baths-inspired swimming pool. It was probably the kids' favourite part of the trip but we big kids loved it too (and the hammam-style steam room).
The staff were very welcoming, the air conditioning worked a treat and the location was perfect — a few minutes' walk from the RER B (7 minutes to Gare du Nord for the Eurostar, 35 minutes to Charles de Gaulle Airport) and from Métro lines 10 and 4.
During our stay we walked past many of the other hotels we've stayed in over the years, including the stunning 17th century Relais Christine (pictured below), and the elegant Hôtel Bel Ami and Hôtel Villa Saint Germain des Prés. When I was on a student budget, I stayed at Hôtel Marignan and Hôtel Esmeralda.
THINGS TO DO IN PARIS
The best thing about visiting cities you've been to many times before and know you'll return to before too long is that you don't have to try to cram in too many activities. This is even more true when it's very hot and you don't feel like rushing around anyway.
Climbing the Eiffel Tower
Paris's most iconic landmark, the Eiffel Tower, needs no introduction. It still excites me every time I catch a glimpse of it around the city: poking out above the rooftops or looming over the river.
Completed in 1889 to mark the 100th anniversary of the French Revolution, Gustave Eiffel's wrought-iron masterpiece stands 330 metres tall. I first went all the way to the summit as a small child the year the tower celebrated its 100th birthday. I've been up a few times since then but not for a long time.
Advance tickets often sell out soon after release but you can usually get tickets to walk up the stairs to the second floor on the day. Note, though, that the queues can be long, which isn't very fun when it's so hot (they did at least have misting sprays).
We hadn’t booked in advance and as I hadn't done any much research, we ended up paying €28 each for a part-stairs, part-lift ticket. It turned out to be stairs to the second floor and then a lift to the top — something that wasn’t clearly explained at any stage. We could just have paid €14 to walk up to the second floor, so it’s worth double-checking the ticket type before you buy.
Anyway, the views from the second floor were still incredible. There was a nice breeze and some shade on the way up, so we weren't too exhausted. But if you go during the summer, I would recommend going early in the morning or in the evening to avoid the worst of the heat.
Visiting the Towers of Notre Dame
Another of Paris's most famous and beautiful buildings is Notre-Dame de Paris, the medieval cathedral on the tiny Île de la Cité in the middle of the River Seine.
The cathedral was badly damaged by a fire in 2019 and reopened, after extensive renovations, in late 2024. My parents and I hadn't been since before the fire so we were excited to climb the cathedral's towers. Tickets cost €16 and don't include a visit to the main cathedral.
Climbing up 424 steps when it's very hot was hard work but there are lots of places to stop along the way and the panoramic views at the top really make it worthwhile. It's a good way to get your bearings and spot landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Sacré-Cœur, while getting a close-up of the gargoyles and other features of the cathedral itself.
Exploring the Quartier Latin and Saint-Germain
One of my favourite things to do in Paris is simply exploring on foot, taking in the architecture, stopping for a coffee or a bite to eat and dipping in and out of the wonderful shops. There's a reason Before Sunset is one of my all-time favourite movies!
This trip, we loved revisiting old haunts in and around Saint-Germain-des-Prés. The narrow, characterful streets have a wonderful energy by night when you can pop into gallery openings, catch a classic film or sit and people-watch on the Boulevard Saint-Germain.
We also spent time relaxing in the large and attractive Jardin du Luxembourg, shopped and visited the church on Rue Saint-Sulpice, explored the historic buildings of the Quartier Latin and strolled along the River Seine, watching Parisians unwind with a bottle of wine in the evening light.
Although we weren't yet able to go into JR's latest art installation, La Caverne du Pont Neuf, we could at least enjoy it from the outside.
Meandering in the Marais
Although I spent most of this trip on the Rive Gauche, I did head north of the river for a few hours to visit the Marais district in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements.
It's best to go to the Marais without too much of an itinerary. I usually just get to the Hôtel de Ville and then wander north, guided by my eyes (and nose!). Some of my favourite shops are Merci, Papier Tigre, Empreintes and Fleux.
The excellent Picasso Museum (book ahead) and the quirky Musée des Arts et Métiers are here and Place des Vosges is a nice place to sit with a book (or an eclair). Further west, the 'inside out' Centre Pompidou is currently closed but it's worth a look from the outside.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Restaurants
Rôtisserie d'Argent, the more casual sister restaurant of the Michelin-starred Tour d'Argent, was where we went for our celebratory dinner. On the banks of the Seine, near Île Saint-Louis, the historic dining room has a great location. The service was warm and welcoming too and if you can get a table upstairs, you'll enjoy nice views of the river.
You don't have to have poulet rôti (roast chicken with oh-so creamy mash and garlic confit) but I highly recommend it. My starter (world champion egg mayo with potato salad) and dessert (sweet, pillowy clouds of île flottante) were delicious too.
Sadly, dinner on the first evening at a bistro on Île de la Cité was rather more underwhelming. But we made up for it with a fab final lunch at Les Éditeurs, a literary-themed restaurant in Odéon where I last ate almost 20 years ago. It was just as good as I remembered, with friendly service and tasty, good-value food.
Light bites and sweet treats
I'd earmarked L'Ami Jean for a post-Eiffel Tower lunch, but with the heat, we opted for a picnic instead. Rue Cler, a few minutes' walk from Champ-de-Mars, is a great place to stock up on picnic food, with its many delis. We picked up some quiches and deli meats at Jeusselin Traiteur, and delicious chocolate eclairs from À la Mere de Famille.
Back in the 6th, Pâtisserie Michalak is a fantastic place for breakfast or a sweet treat. I treated myself to 'Bretzel' croissant (with sesame and fleur de sel) and a 'pistachio millefeuille Paris Brest'. I dropped the latter's box in my excitement; it still tasted divine!
Cocktails and coffee stops
My parents and I stopped for a drink at Café de Flore for old times' sake one evening. My Saint-Germain cocktail was tasty but pricey — you are, of course, paying for the location and what a location it is! Fun fact: my phone ringtone has been set to Doctor Rockit's Café de Flore since Jean-Marc Vallée's 2011 film of the same name!
By far the best drinks of the trip were at Bar Nouveau, a tiny, elegant but relaxed bar in the Marais. It's currently rated the 17th best bar in the world, and with its friendly service and concise but impeccably mixed cocktail menu, it's easy to see why! The foamy, cool and tart Colonel was just what I needed to cool down on a hot evening.
As usual, I will publish a separate post about the specialty coffee shops I visited, but in the meantime, try Tanat or Terres de Café — or check out my previous guide (created in 2017 but updated since then).
GETTING THERE
We travelled to Paris by Eurostar, from St Pancras in London. The outward journey was very pleasant and comfortable and we arrived on time.
The return wasn't so enjoyable. A security alert at Gare du Nord earlier in the day meant huge delays and there were big queues, few signs and much confusion. We were waiting in a long, hot queue for over two hours before we finally cleared security.
It was then another hour before our train departed (1h45 late). Bring water and snacks just in case you have a long wait!
GETTING AROUND
I usually get around Paris on foot. The centre is relatively compact and I think it's the best way to see the city. The heat and the fact that we were with younger family members this time meant we ended up taking the Métro once or twice a day.
I downloaded the Bonjour RATP app, where I could buy single Métro/RER tickets for €2.55 each and then load them into the Wallet app on my phone. If you're planning to use public transport a lot, it may be worth buying a daily or weekly Navigo Pass.
You can buy tickets from machines at most stations, which you can top up as needed. If you have kids or don't have a smartphone, this is the easiest option. You'll need to tap in on both the Métro and the RER; you'll also need to tap out on the RER.
The Batobus hop-on, hop-off sightseeing boats are another good way to get around Paris and see some of the city's most iconic sights. We'd hoped to do this on our last day but ran out of time.
HOT WEATHER TIPS FOR PARIS
When we booked our late May trip to Paris earlier this year, my biggest worry was that it was going to be grey and rainy, which happened the last time I came during this time of year. Instead, it was over 30C (86F) every day and very humid, with the temperature only dropping slightly after 9 pm.
I usually avoid travelling to Paris in July and August, when the weather can often be unpleasantly hot, but with climate change, heatwaves are becoming more common during late spring and early autumn. These are some of the things that helped us cope with the heat:
- Bring a reusable water bottle. There are lots of drinking water fountains all over Paris, including in parks and some museums and Métro stations. Some even have carbonated water, while others have misting spray buttons (I would 100% recommend!).
- Bring a fan (or two). My favourite portable fan is powerful, relatively quiet, has a long battery life and also doubles up as a phone-charger and torch! The same brand now has a premium version too. I also kept a small bottle of this refreshing facial water spray in my handbag.
- Keep out of the sun between 12 and 4 pm. Try to find an indoor activity (with air con) or somewhere with shade, like one of the parks, during the hottest hours of the day.
- Stay on the shady side of the street. This is easier in areas with smaller streets, like the Marais and Saint-Germain, where you can easily cross the street to avoid the sun.
- Hit the pool. We were grateful to have a hotel with a pool to cool off in, but there are also public swimming pools and even swimming spots by the Seine.
- Don't push yourself too hard. I know it's tough when you're visiting a new city and don't want to miss out just because it's hot (I had this experience in Hué, Vietnam) but it's important to take lots of breaks and stay hydrated. Besides, it's a good excuse to plan another trip to Paris!
For more inspiration, check out all of my other Paris blog posts and guides.
Found this post helpful? Please consider supporting my blog by buying me a coffee.
No comments:
Post a Comment