I think the Regent's Canal towpath from Little Venice to Limehouse is one of London's best walks. The 9.5-mile route weaves past Regency-style villas, through beautiful parks and cool neighbourhoods, and alongside striking contemporary and heritage architecture. This is my guide to the route, including all my favourite places to stops.
I've walked and run along Regent's Canal for years. When I lived in Marylebone, it was the loveliest, if not the fastest, way to commute to King's Cross. I also spent many a lunch break jogging to Camden and back.
Last Sunday, I walked the full route from Little Venice to Limehouse. It was the first time I'd done it in a while and it reminded me of how much I love being by the water and watching the landscape change dramatically.
From the serenity of Regent's Park to the bustle of Camden Market, it's a superb way to see London's highlights while staying slightly off the beaten track — whether you're a Londoner or just visiting.
Where else in London — or the world — can you follow a single route past ambassadorial mansions, royal parks, food markets, gasholders, African wild dogs and even sharks? Not to mention Britpop music video locations, a floating bookshop and even a scoop of British ice cream history!
Regent's Canal Walk Overview
Distance: Around 9.5 miles (15 km) from Little Venice to Limehouse Basin.
Regent's Canal Walk: My Complete Guide
I've mapped the approximate route I took, as well as listing my favourite sights, activities and places to stop for food and coffee.
Little Venice
Little Venice is a tranquil corner of West London, tucked between Paddington and Maida Vale where three canals converge (hence the name). With elegant, regency-style villas, tree-lined streets and, of course, the colourful narrowboats on the canal, it's long been a desirable spot. Former residents include Sigmund Freud, Alan Turing and Paul Weller!
From Warwick Avenue Tube, take the Clifton Villas exit and walk to Blomfield Road where you can access the canal. Follow the canal northeast, crossing over Edgware Road as the waterway dips underground until you reach Lisson Grove.
Pit stops: Laville, a longstanding Italian restaurant, has a beautiful terrace overlooking the canal. Get there early (or book) to get the best seats!
Marylebone and Regent's Park
Get back on the canal at Lisson Grove and you'll pass through a more industrial stretch before entering Regent's Park, one of my favourite London parks.
On the other side, there are several grand mansions, including Winfield House, the official residence of the US Ambassador to the UK.
The Regent's Park section of the canal is very peaceful — full of trees, flowers and wildlife. I stopped for a few moments to listen to the birdsong chorus. It was hard to believe I was in central London.
Speaking of wildlife, the canal passes through London Zoo. You may smell the zoo before you see the enclosures! On a good day, you can spot monkeys and African wild dogs. On my lunchtime runs, I liked to divert into Regent's Park so I could stretch with a view of Penguin Beach on Broad Walk!
Worth a detour: If the weather's nice, head off the canal by Ormonde Terrace, which leads to the foot of Primrose Hill. It's a short but steep climb to the top and you'll be rewarded with one of the best views of central London.
Camden
Shortly after the Feng Shang Princess floating restaurant, the canal curves round to the right and passes through Primrose Hill, a neighbourhood famous in the 1990s for its celebrity residents. Up ahead is the Pirate Castle, where you can rent kayaks or book a boat trip. Walking the plank is definitely not advisable!
The path cuts through Camden Market, one of London's most famous markets, which has been running for more than 50 years.
Pit stops: You can eat your way around the world at Camden Lock Market. Note, though, that it gets very busy, especially at lunchtimes on sunny weekend days. There are more options within a few minutes' walk at the shiny new Hawley Wharf.
Worth a detour: If you're looking for very 'London' gifts or souvenirs, you're bound to find a few gems in the shops at Camden Market. You can also take boat trips with London Waterbus Company from the lock.
Camden has strong musical roots, with associations with artists from Amy Winehouse to Madness and The Clash and venues like the Roundhouse. You can take a walking tour to visit some of the iconic sights and learn more about the history.
If you're a Suede fan, consider taking the diversion to 122 Camley Street, an unlikely-seeming location in an industrial estate. The bridge featured in the video for Suede's first single, The Drowners. (NB I took this selfie in colder, more COVIDy times!)
King's Cross
Continue wandering east on the canal. I used to run along this stretch three times a week in the early 2010s, when the area was still a little rough around the edges — police incidents weren't uncommon.
There's been a lot of regeneration in King's Cross since I started working there in 2010. Back then, there was one gastropub and a scruffy pub where you brought your own food from the caff next door. Otherwise, it was a 20-minute lunch break power walk to Clerkenwell or Bloomsbury.
2012 saw the redevelopment of Granary Square, the arrival of art students and the opening of all-day eateries like Caravan. RIP my bank balance!
Beyond the canal-side steps by Granary Square, you'll find Word on the Water, a book barge, which is a great place to browse for fiction and non-. The undulating glass building across the canal up on York Way has been home to The Guardian since 2009.
For 11 years, I worked next door at Nature Publishing Group, as was. Nature's move to King's Cross from Fleet Street in the 1990s was a bit of a shock to the system for some editors. And yet, 30 years on, King's Cross is the place to be! Even the erstwhile gasholders are now luxury apartments.
When I was looking for a flat in 2012, King's Cross was an area I was considering. But I struggled to find anything affordable on my publishing salary. Finally, I came across a one-bedroom property on York Way for only £70,000. But of course, it turned out to be a houseboat. And it would be much pricier now!
Pit stops: Coal Drops Yard and King's Boulevard have dozens of places to eat and drink, for all tastes and budgets. Caravan is one of my favourite London restaurants and they serve fab specialty coffee. The terrace at The Lighterman has the best views!
Worth a detour: Camley Street Natural Park is a small but lovely wild park right by the canal. Sadly, the swimming pond is long gone.
The London Canal Museum is an appropriate diversion for this walk! While there, you can visit the ice house of Carlo Gatti, the Swiss entrepreneur who is thought to be one of the first people to sell ice cream to the British public in the 19th century!
There are two 1990s music locations nearby. The video for Oasis's Supersonic was filmed on the roof of King's Cross Station (sadly it's been demolished). And the Spice Girls' debut single Wannabe was filmed at the beautiful St Pancras London Hotel.
Islington
A few minutes after passing Battlebridge Basin, you'll reach the Islington Canal Tunnel. There's no towpath in the tunnel (I've been through on a canal boat, which was an experience!), but you can follow the route above ground, heading east up the hill towards Upper Street.
Pit stops: Islington is an ideal place to stop for coffee. I recommend Devotion, where there's an incredible range of coffee beans from top-notch roasters across Europe. Frequency and Saint Espresso are also excellent coffee options.
There are also lots of restaurants and bakeries in the area. Jolene and Pophams are two of my favourite spots for a sweet treat. French bakery Copains (nice name!) has tasty gluten-free sandwiches, bread and pastries, although it's pretty pricey.
Worth a detour: Islington's Upper Street has some fantastic boutiques and independent shops, and Camden Passage is a good place to browse for antiques and vintage. Just remember that you'll have to carry any purchases for the rest of the walk!
Haggerston
You can get back onto the canal at Colebrooke Row. The path starts to feel a lot busier as you head into East London, especially on a sunny weekend afternoon. Watch out for bikes — and low-hanging tunnels!
I promised you sharks, and you'll find them at Antepavilion near Haggerston Bridge. They have teeth but don't bite. Usually.
Pit stops: Towpath is one of London's loveliest canal-side restaurants, though be prepared to queue for t a table, especially at the weekend, as they don't take bookings.
Batch Baby. one of my favourite London coffee shops, is one block north. Head there if you appreciate a carefully brewed pourover or an impeccable piccolo.
Hackney
Keep on walking past yet another set of gasholders-turned-luxury-apartments and eventually the path runs alongside Victoria Park, another of my favourite parks.
There, you'll find boating lakes, a Chinese pagoda, street food and farmers' markets and lots of space to walk, play and relax.
Pit stops: For specialty coffee, light bites and brunch, I recommend Pavilion Cafe in Victoria Park.
Worth a detour: Broadway Market has bricks-and-mortar shops and eateries as well as market stalls. It's a fantastic place for a bite and to shop for unique gifts, or gifts-to-self.
Mile End
After leaving Victoria Park, the canal bends round to the right as you head south through Mile End Park. You may start to notice planes flying overhead, taking off and landing at nearby City Airport.
Even though I've walked this route many times, it's still always a slight surprise when I catch a first glimpse of the modern skyscrapers of Canary Wharf after so many miles of low-rise landscapes.
Worth a detour: At the Ragged School Museum, on the towpath near Ben Johnson Road, you can learn more about the history of a school opened by Dr Barnardo in 1877, which served some of the poorest children in the Victorian East End.
Pit stops: Forno Ragged Cafe, next to the museum, serves Italian pastries, breakfast and lunch dishes, as well as specialty coffee.
Limehouse Basin
From the Ragged School Museum, it's only half-a-mile to Limehouse Basin. Once I got there, I took a few selfies and some photos of the marina and then sat down in the sunshine to rest my legs before heading to the bus stop to return home.
If you've never been on the Docklands Light Railway (DLR), the driverless trains are fun to ride, especially if you get a seat at the front and can pretend you're driving!
How long did the Regent's Canal Walk take me?
My final finish time was just under three hours: 2:59:52, to be precise. I cheated a little bit when I realised I was very close to the end with 2:56:00 on the stopwatch. I may have jogged for some of the last few minutes to make sure I got a sub-three-hour finish time! That's why my heartbeat is a little higher than usual.
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