If dramatic volcanic landscapes, idyllic lakeside villages, Mayan culture and colourful architecture are your thing, Guatemala might be the ideal destination for your next trip. In this guide, I'm sharing my tips for planning the perfect Guatemala itinerary and making the most of your stay.
Guatemala is Central America's most populous country and the third largest by area. Bordered by Mexico, Belize, Honduras and El Salvador, it has a tiny Caribbean coastline, a longer Pacific coastline and more than 30 recognised volcanoes.
I spent 10 fun-filled days in Guatemala — and what a special 10 days it was! I climbed an active volcano, visited a coffee farm, boated on a volcanic lake, shopped for colourful textiles and explored a spectacular Mayan site, among many other highlights.
Read on to find out what I did, how I planned it all and my advice for solo female travellers, among other practical tips.
For more information about the destinations in this guide, check out my Guatemala travel guide series: Antigua city guide; Antigua specialty coffee guide; Antigua coffee farm tour; hiking Acatenango Volcano; Lake Atitlán guide; Lake Atitlán specialty coffee guide; Flores & Tikal guide.
WHEN TO VISIT GUATEMALA
Guatemala is a country of diverse landscapes and ecosystems, each with its own micro-climate. The best time to visit is from November to April, during the dry season. You can usually expect minimal rainfall, warm weather and plenty of sunshine.
I visited in late November: it didn't rain at all and was mostly sunny. But there are never any guarantees: a Guatemalan friend told me I'd just missed a cooler period with quite a bit of rain, and parts of Isla de Flores were still flooded from recent heavy rains.
In Antigua and at Lake Atitlán, the temperature was 22–25C during the day, a little cooler at night, especially at the lake. On my overnight hike on Volcán de Acatenango, the temperature went down to 0C. Meanwhile, Flores and Tikal are hot year round: it was 27–32C during my trip and much more humid.
December, especially around Christmas, and Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the spring can get particularly busy in Antigua and Lake Atitlán. I was there the week of US Thanksgiving and hotels and tours were busy.
Travelling in the shoulder season, later in October or early May, is usually cheaper and quieter. But if you plan to do any serious hiking, I'd recommend going during the dry season to maximise your chances of good weather.
PLANNING MY GUATEMALA TRIP
You can fit three or four of Guatemala's most popular destinations into a 10- to 14-day trip. I'd intended to spend two weeks in Guatemala, with some beach time at the end. But I decided to spend my final three days on Caye Caulker in Belize, leaving me with 10 full days in Guatemala.
Starting my trip in a big town like Antigua helped me to get my bearings faster. From there, I could join the Acatenango Volcano tour and then relax at Lake Atitlán before heading to Flores and then Caye Caulker.
My rough itinerary decided, I booked my flights, about two months in advance. I paid £650 for open-jaw American Airlines flights from London to Guatemala City, returning from Belize City to London, with layovers in Miami both ways. All four legs were in economy, although my soon-to-expire One World Sapphire status meant I had extra legroom on three flights.
I booked my volcano tour and hotels six weeks before my trip:
accommodation was filling up in Antigua and especially
Lake Atitlán. Cheaper room categories at some of the boutique hotels and upscale hostels on my list had already sold out, so I'd recommend making reservations as early as you can.
My Guatemala itinerary: overview
La Aurora International Airport — 1 night
Shuttle to Antigua (AM)
Antigua — 3 nights
Organised tour to Volcán de Acatenango (AM)
Volcán de Acatenango — 1 night
Shuttle direct to Lake Atitlán (arrive 2 PM)
Panajachel, Lake Atitlán — 3 nights
Shuttle to Guatemala City (PM)
La Aurora International Airport — 1 night
Flight to Flores (AM)
Flores — 2 nights
Shuttle to Caye Caulker, Belize (AM)
Caye Caulker, Belize — 3 nights
This itinerary had a good mix of urban exploration, hiking and nature, cultural sites and beach time. I'm glad I saved Caye Caulker for the end. It took a few days for my legs to recover from the volcano hike and although I took a slower pace at the lake, after two days in Flores, I was ready for total relaxation.
I'd have liked a couple of extra days in Atitlán — perhaps visiting Chichicastenango Market, birdwatching or taking a weaving class.
I also considered visiting the beautiful turquoise pools of Semuc Champey instead of Caye Caulker. But its location in the jungle near Lanquín requires two days of travel along bumpy roads, which put me off with only two weeks. Next time!
10 DAYS IN GUATEMALA: MY DETAILED ITINERARY
My flight landed at La Aurora International Airport in Guatemala City a little late, at 11 pm (day 0 in this itinerary!). Luckily, I'd booked a hotel five minutes' walk from the airport.
My king room at
Hostal Donde Regina cost £45 (including Guatemalan breakfast) and was comfortable, clean and — given its proximity to the airport — surprisingly quiet. I was only there long enough to sleep and shower but I liked it so much I stayed there again.
I had a wonderful stay at
San Rafael Hotel, an atmospheric restored former colonial home. My room (£130 per night including a top-notch breakfast in the courtyard) was elegant and well appointed, and the location, two minutes from Arco de Santa Catalina, can't be beaten.
After watching the sunset over Agua, Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes on
Antigua Brewing Co's rooftop, I had superb cocktails at
Ulew, a speakeasy bar whose bartenders will delight you with their
creative mixology.
On my final day, I took an excellent
coffee farm tour in San Miguel Escobar, learning more about coffee production and meeting a farming family. Back in Antigua, I checked out some more coffee shops and had my first
pepían at
El Adobe.
After three days eyeing up the volcanoes that surround Antigua, it was time to climb one! I took an exhilarating overnight hike on Volcán de Acatenango with
Lava Trails.
The climb was hard with some steep, slippery parts, but catching that first glimpse of Fuego from our Acatenango basecamp made it all worth it. Watching the lurid lava spill from Fuego's crater from the comfort of my bunkbed throughout the night was even more exciting! But nothing could top the magical sunrise at the summit of Acatenango.
Read my blog post for all of the details of my experience: how to choose a tour company, what to pack, what it's like and how much it costs. Suffice it to say, it was the highlight of my trip — and
my year!
My Acatenango tour company offered a direct shuttle to Lake Atitlán from their office near the volcano trailhead, which saved me several hours of travel time. The shuttle cost Q200 (£20) and took a couple of hours, so I arrived in Panajachel, the main transport hub at Lake Atitlán, in the early afternoon.
I walked to my hotel,
Hospedaje El Viajero, which was on Panajachel's main street, a short walk from the docks. At £25 per night, it was the cheapest hotel of my trip. My room was clean and comfortable, and I had access to a kitchen and the shared seating areas in the leafy courtyard.
My blog post has more accommodation ideas.
Exhausted from my volcano climb, I walked to the lakefront to write my travel journal and watch the sunset over a new set of volcanoes. I had a quick dinner at
Humaya and an early night. I slept very well, despite the efforts of next door's rooster!
The next day, I visited two Lake Atitlán towns by
lancha. In colourful San Juan La Laguna, I photographed the murals, shopped for textiles and hiked to
Mirador Kaqasiiwaan. Later, at San Pedro, I soaked my aching legs in the
thermal pools before heading back to Pana.
On my second full day, I took a boat to Santiago Atitlán, seeking out the hard-drinking folk saint
Maximón and checking out the markets. I then went back to San Pedro to
visit coffee shops, and had a lovely lunch overlooking the lake at
Sababa.
In the morning, I took a tuk tuk to Santa Catarina Palopó, a small village whose colourful houses have resulted from a regeneration project. I had a wander and then went to the lake to paddle in the thermal waters.
Back in Pana, I had brunch at
The Little Spoon and boarded my shuttle to Guatemala City. Booked through my hotel, the shuttle cost Q200 (£20) and took over five hours. I considered flying straight to Flores but I was worried about missing my flight in the traffic so I stayed near the airport again at
Hostal Donde Regina (£45, including breakfast).
I walked to the airport for my 9 am TAG flight to Flores. I arrived two hours early, as directed, and, as expected, had a lot of time to kill in the domestic departure lounge. Both my suitcase and my day bag were slightly over the weight limit but I wasn't charged.
The flight, which cost £90, took about 30 minutes and as Mundo Maya Airport is so small and so close to Flores, I was in the town by 10 am. If I'd flown the night before, I'd have got in at 8:30 pm and would probably have gone straight to bed so I didn't lose much time.
After dropping my suitcase at my hotel, I spent the day exploring the vibrant colonial architecture of Isla de Flores, stopping to snack at the beautiful
Delirio and for lakefront brunch at
Maracuyá. Later I watched the sunset from the rooftop at
Sky Bar and got a cheap, tasty dinner at
Tacos Los Peches.
My hotel,
Casa Ramona, was gorgeous. I paid £45 for a twin room (including breakfast), and it was spacious and comfortable, with great (and much-needed) air conditioning. There's also a rooftop terrace and delightful cafe on the ground floor.
The next morning, I hired a
lancha to visit
Playa Chechenal, a beach (of sorts) across the lake. No one else was there and I spent several peaceful hours on the rainbow-coloured pontoon, sunbathing, reading and jumping into the lake to cool off.
I spent the afternoon at Tikal, the spectacular Mayan archaeological site. I took a
sunset tour with Luis from Mayan World, who was a fantastic guide: so knowledgeable and he had lots of great stories and insights. The highlight was watching sunset over the temples and jungle from the top of Mundo Perdido, a special, ethereal climax to a superb tour.
Days 11–14: Next stop, Belize!
The next morning, I checked out of
my hotel at 5:45 am — they kindly gave made me a packed breakfast for the long shuttle ride to Caye Caulker, Belize. The journey with
GoBelize cost Q300 (£30) and took just over six hours including the land border crossing and ferry ride to Caye Caulker. I'll be writing more about my time in Belize soon!
GETTING AROUND IN GUATEMALA
It's easy and fairly inexpensive to travel between Guatemala's main tourist destinations. I mostly used shared tourist shuttle buses to get around, including from Guatemala City to Antigua, Antigua to Lake Atitlán, Atitlán to Guatemala City, and from Flores to Caye Caulker in Belize.
Shuttle buses are generally a relatively comfortable, affordable and convenient way to get around. I used
GuateGo (which allows you to book shuttles from various companies) to research schedules and prices. I also used the site to book my first journey, from the airport to Antigua.
It's usually cheaper to book shuttles locally once you're in Guatemala — I usually did this either through my hotels or at local travel agencies. For instance, to get from Antigua to Caye Caulker, the cheapest option on GuateGo is $56 (about £41), but I paid Q300 (£29) at
BelizeGo in Flores.
The buses varied in size — most were a little smaller than the one pictured above — and were fairly comfortable, especially if you avoid sitting in the back row. Unfortunately, my shuttle out of Atitlán was completely full and I was wedged into the back corner next to a sleeping, leaning guy. I was glad when he got out near Antigua.
Booking a private transfer is often faster and more comfortable — and may not cost much more if there are three or more in your group. You can book through
GuateGo, your hotel or many of the local companies and agencies.
By road, it's a 10 to 15-hour journey from Guatemala City, Antigua or Lake Atitlán to Flores. From Panajachel, I took a shuttle to Guatemala City (five hours) and then a short flight to Flores with TAG (Avianca also run flights). My flight cost £90 (there are cheaper options) and the tiny Mundo Maya Airport is very close to the town, so you'll be in Flores in no time. The views from the plane were nice too!
If you're on a budget, you may want to look into 'chicken bus', which is what many Guatemalan use for long-distance travel. These buses are usually retired North American school buses, repainted in bright colours. They aren't the fastest or most convenient way to travel, but you'll save money and will probably end up with some great stories!
Within the Guatemalan destinations I visited, I walked as much as possible and used a variety of other modes of transport.
At Lake Atitlán, I used lanchas (water taxis) to get between different towns. There's no schedule for these — the boats just leave when full — and journeys cost Q25 (£2.50). I also travelled by tuk tuk a couple of times, and even by colectivo (shared pick-up truck) in Santa Catarina Palopó, which cost just Q5 (50p).
SOLO FEMALE TRAVEL IN GUATEMALA
If you're visiting Guatemala you may have concerns about safety, especially if you are a solo and/or female traveller. No country in the world is 100% safe and Guatemala, like every country, has its safer and more dangerous regions. And when you're travelling alone, it's even more important to always take the necessary precautions.
There's a balance to strike between authenticity of experience and safety. For this trip, I stuck to the main tourist destinations of Antigua, Lake Atitlán and Flores. And I took tourist shuttles, booked through my hotels, rather than public transport and travelled only during daylight hours.
Guatemala was one of my best experiences as a solo traveller. This was partly due to the fact that the main 'tourist route' is based around a few main locations. This meant that most days, I came across people I'd met previously on shuttles, tours or at hotels. On my flight back to London, there were three separate couples I'd already met!
My Acatenango tour company created a WhatsApp group for our group, which meant we could share travel tips and there were people I could contact if I needed to. I also had most of my hotels saved in my phone so I could WhatsApp them in case I needed an additional safety net.
Here are some of my other recommendations for safer solo travel:
- Be particularly cautious after dark, especially if you've had a few drinks. Lots of early starts and long, action-packed days meant I was back in my hotel room by 8 pm most nights and I'm not a big drinker.
- Keep a close eye on your belongings at all times. Don't flash valuables around and keep them on you on transportation rather than leaving in your luggage.
- Avoid carrying too much cash. I usually carry one credit card and some cash with me and lock a spare card and the rest of my cash into the hotel safe. I use Apple Pay where possible for greater security.
- Share your travel itinerary and ideally your live location with a trusted friend or family member.
- Be cautious when sharing details about your life and travel plans with strangers. Don't include your location on social media posts — at least until after you've left the area.
- Learn some basic Spanish words and phrases, which will make it easier to get help if you need it.
- Download offline versions of local maps on Google Maps on your phone so that you always have access, even if you can't use your data or get on the wifi.
- Carry a small torch in your day bag and keep a basic first aid kit with you.
FOOD & DRINK IN GUATEMALA
Many traditional Guatemalan dishes are based on Mayan cuisine, with influence from Spain and neighbouring countries in North and Central America. Tortillas, rice, beans, meat, tomatoes and chilli feature prominently. I like to try as much local food as possible when I travel and I was excited to sample lots of dishes.
Most of my hotel bookings came with free breakfast. This usually included coffee, tea or hot chocolate, plus a main dish. I almost always opted for the desayuno tipíco (typical breakfast), which consists of scrambled eggs, black beans, fried plantains and either some form of bread or tortilla. It was a filling way to start the day!
I tried pepían, Guatemala's national dish, a couple of times and really enjoyed it. It's a rich and comforting meat stew made with tomato, spices and gourd, and served with beans and rice. I also got to try caldo de gallina, a simple but richly flavoured chicken soup — delicious with home-made tortillas!
There's a lot of overlap between the street food in Guatemala and neighbouring countries like Mexico and El Salvador. I ate tacos and their crispier cousins, tostadas, at least once a day; both the fancier and more basic versions were tasty and filling.
Pupusas were a new discovery for me on this trip and I ate them several times — at a market in Antigua and by the lake in Panajachel. Typical of El Salvador and Honduras, these thick griddlecakes made from cornmeal are stuffed with cheese, beans and/or pork and then fried.
As is often the case in hotter countries, I wasn't hungry enough for dessert most days. But I did occasionally make an exception for an ice cream or
granizada (flavoured shaved ice snack). There are lots of artisanal ice cream vendors near Parque Central in Antigua. And at
Sombrilandia in Panajachel, you can enjoy an ice cream shaped like a mini-umbrella!
GUATEMALA PACKING TIPS
I will be publishing a separate post with my full packing list and recommendations from my two-week trip to Guatemala and Belize. In the meantime, here are a few top tips:
- Travel light. You'll be hauling your luggage onto the top of shuttle buses and wedging it into lancha boats, so you'll be grateful to have a small, light suitcase or bag. I used my trusty Away Carry-On Suitcase (get a 15% discount with my referral code). I even had space for some souvenirs!
- Bring comfortable walking shoes. From the cobbled streets of Antigua and Flores to the hills and volcanoes, your feet will thank you if you bring comfortable shoes, preferably with good grip. If you're doing a volcano hike, try to bring hiking boots or at least trail running shoes.
- Pack lots of layers. During my trip, the temperature varied from 0C on top of Acatenango to 32C in Flores and Belize. I mostly wore merino wool tees with shorts, or my favourite Columbia Freezer tank dresses but I was grateful to have a cardigan and scarf for cooler nights.
- Make sure you have a good power bank. Looking up directions, taking lots of photos and passing time on long shuttle rides all took their toll on my phone battery. This fast Anker power bank gives about two charges of my iPhone and has a built-in cable and Apple Watch charger.
- Take a torch or headlamp. My Acatenango tour company had headlamps to rent, but I brought my own. I bought this rechargeable one for my Inca Trail trek and it was still charged seven years later! It was also useful at Tikal after sunset. It gets dark early in Guatemala and I always carry this tiny but mighty torch in my purse.
- Keep a reusable water bottle on hand. The tap water isn't safe to drink in Guatemala but I was pleased to find that many of the hotels I stayed at and cafés I visited offered free refills of filtered water. I was glad to save some plastic by filling up my insulated bottle.
GUATEMALA AT A GLANCE
Languages
The official language of Guatemala is Spanish, and 24 Mayan and other Indigenous languages are also spoken. English is generally understood, especially in tourism and hospitality, but learning a few Spanish words and phrases is always appreciated and makes for a more enjoyable stay.
Time zone
Guatemala is on Central Standard Time, six hours behind London and one hour behind New York. During daylight savings time, which Guatemala doesn't observe, the country is seven hours behind London and two behind New York.
Money
Guatemala's currency is the Quetzal (GTQ). At the time of writing, there are ~10 GTQ to the British pound and ~7.6 GTQ to the US dollar.
I brought some Quetzales from the UK and withdrew more in Panajachel. I found lots of ATMs in Antigua and a few in Panajachel: most charge a small fee (check whether your bank has foreign transaction fees). I read that ATMs can run out of money in smaller Atitlán villages and in Flores, so don't get caught short.
I used a mix of cash and credit cards. I paid by card at hotels, most larger shops, restaurants, bars, cafes and tourists spots, but usually needed cash for smaller venues and at markets. I also booked, and paid for, some shuttles and tours online.
Electricity
Guatemala uses type A (two flat parallel pins) and type B (two flat pins with a grounding pin) plug sockets, also used in the USA.
Wifi/mobile data
Wifi was widely available everywhere I visited, including in hotels and some restaurants, cafés and tourist attractions. It was, at times, a little slow and/or flaky — but no more than in London, to be fair!
I used a
Nomad eSIM to access mobile data throughout my trip. I've used eSIMS when I travel for years and find them very convenient. I've been happy with
Airalo eSIMs on many previous trips but Nomad was cheaper for Guatemala. I paid £16 for a 30-day 20 GB SIM. I had good coverage throughout and only got through 10GB.
Want to try an eSIM on your next trip?
Sign up to Nomad using my referral code —
REBEXSAXQK — and we both get $5 credit. Or if Airalo has a better deal, you can
sign up with my referral code —
REBECC3024 — and we both get $3 credit.
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