How To Spend a Perfect Weekend in Oxford

I grew up just outside the university city of Oxford and lived there for 15 years before defecting to The Other Place and eventually London. I still return regularly to visit my parents, explore old haunts and check out the Oxford's ever-expanding food and specialty coffee scene. Now, I'm sharing my long-overdue updated guide for spending a perfect weekend in Oxford, complete with a map of all my favourite things to do, and places to see, eat, drink and stay.

I've always been a big advocate for my hometown and I even worked at the tourist information during my university holidays, helping visitors book walking tours and hotels and track down Tolkien, C.S. Lewis and Inspector Morse spots. When the Harry Potter movies started filming nearby, the most common question soon became where 'Harry Potter College' was (spoiler: it doesn’t exist, but you can visit several filming locations).

Like every city, Oxford has its pros and cons but I loved growing up amid the rich history, vibrant academic community, honeyed stone buildings and beautiful green spaces. Its iconic 'dreaming spires' have inspired countless books, movies, TV shows and songs, from Alice in Wonderland to Saltburn. 

The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot and there’s much more to the city than the university and its 43 colleges, from the site of a 12th century empress's escape through a snowstorm, to May Morning merriment and even some beaches nestled into the banks of the River Thames.

Two days in Oxford gives you enough time to get a feel for both the ‘town’ and ‘gown’ sides. My weekend itinerary below will help you do just that. At the end, you’ll find a full list of my favourite places to eat, drink and explore, so you can craft the perfect itinerary to suit your interests, tastes and budget.

WHEN TO VISIT OXFORD

Oxford has plenty to do year-round, but I would avoid January, February and March, when it's often cold, grey and wet and the city's honeyed-stone buildings lose some of their lustre; it is pretty in the snow, though! I would also try to avoid July or August when Oxford is extremely crowded, often seeing more expensive hotel rates. I think Oxford is at its most beautiful in the spring light of April to June or with the autumn leaves of late September and October. That being said, there's always a decent chance of bad weather whenever you visit, so pack an umbrella!

If you want to visit, or even stay in, the Oxford colleges, you'll generally get better access outside of term time (you can find the university term dates here). Other notable dates in the Oxford calendar include the Oxford Literary Festival in March, the Oxford Folk Festival in April, May Morning and Eights Week (university rowing races) in May. If you see students clad in formal wear ('sub-fusc') and gowns, it may be a Degree Day or exam day.

Whenever you come, try to book your accommodation well in advance — scroll to the end of this guide for my tips on where to stay.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

Oxford is 55 miles west of London and the drive usually takes 1.5 to 2 hours. But I would avoid driving into the city if you possibly can — the roads are already too congested and parking is difficult and expensive. If you do need to come by car, consider using one of the five Park and Ride sites on the outskirts.

The fastest way to get to Oxford is by train. You can either take a GWR train from London Paddington (50 minutes) or go with Chiltern Railways (1h15) from London Marylebone, which is slower but usually cheaper. National Rail's has tips for saving money on train travel and Trainline is good for planning and booking train travel. Oxford station is 10 minutes' walk from the city centre.

Oxford Tube buses run 24/7 from London Victoria to Oxford (with stops in Marble Arch, Baker Street and Notting Hill). The journey time is around 2h15 from Victoria, but can take longer. The coaches are comfortable, though, and depending on your starting point, they can be more convenient — and cheaper — than the train. Oxford's bus station is very central, at Gloucester Green.

If you're travelling from Heathrow or Gatwick Airport, check out the Oxford Bus Company's Airline routes, for direct coaches.

The city centre is compact and best explored on foot. There's a great local bus network — helpful to get to North and East Oxford and further afield. Uber has finally arrived in Oxford, but is still a little limited;  my family has been using Royal Cars for many years.

MY OXFORD MAP

OXFORD WEEKEND ITINERARY

If it's your first time visiting Oxford this two-day itinerary includes the top city and university highlights, as well as my tips for places to eat, drink and caffeinate. Although it's designed for a weekend, you can do most things on any day of the week (note, though, that most museums close on Mondays). Everything featured is covered in more detail later in this guide, along with many other recommendations of things to do and see, restaurants, pubs, shops and places to stay.

Day 1

Morning:

• Start with a coffee stop. In the centre, I recommend Missing Bean, Jericho Coffee Traders, New Ground, Colombia Coffee Roasters and Society Cafe. My Oxford specialty coffee guide has many more suggestions.
• Tour the UK's oldest university. The best way to see and learn more about the history of the University of Oxford and its colleges is to join a guided walking tour. You can also explore key sights by yourself. Start by the Radcliffe Camera and University Church, then take in the Bridge of Sighs and the Bodleian Library. Some colleges allow tourists to visit — Christ Church and Magdalen are among the most popular.

Lunch: 

• Market bites. Head to 250-year-old The Covered Market for a light lunch. I really like Sartorelli's for Neapolitan-style pizza and Hamblin Bread for pastries and sandwiches. For made-to-order sandwiches, try Taylors on the High Street, where I used to work many years ago!

Afternoon:

• Take to the river. If the weather's nice, head rent a punt (a flat-bottomed boat, propelled by a long pole) or hire a punt guide at Magdalen Bridge for a scenic tour from the water. Stop for ice cream at one of the G & Ds cafes.
• OR: Ashmolean art. If it's not punting weather, visit the Ashmolean, an excellent museum of art and archaeology on Beaumont Street. Afterwards, head to Jericho to explore the independent shops and eateries on Little Clarendon Street and Walton Street.

Evening:

• A pint of history. Go for a pint at one of Oxford's historic pubs like The Bear or The Turf Tavern. For skyline views of the city, climb the stairs to the rooftop terrace at the Varsity Club, just off the High.
• Delightful dining. My current favourite restaurants for dinner in Oxford are Arbequina on Cowley Road (some top tapas pictured below), and Pompette in Summertown. I also love Oli's Thai, on Magdalen Road; their food is currently only available at lunchtimes at Elle's Deli but they are reopening in September 2025.

Day 2

Morning:

• Roam Oxford's green spaces. Start in Christ Church Meadow, taking in the views of colleges, wandering along the river and looking out for rowers. Visit the Botanic Garden, founded in the 16th century, and then walk over Magdalen Bridge to South Park, just off St Clement's. Head up the slope for a picture-postcard view of Oxford's famous 'dreaming spires.'

Lunch:

• Superb Sunday roast. By now, you've probably worked up an appetite for lunch, so go for a well-deserved Sunday roast with all the trimmings at The Magdalen Arms or The Chester Arms (pictured below). Book a table, if you can, at The Magdalen Arms; The Chester Arms is walk-in only for Sunday lunch, so arrive around 11:30 am to get a good spot in the queue. 

Afternoon

• A glimpse of ancient history and culture. Two of Oxford's finest museums are housed in the same building on Parks Road. The Natural History Museum is great for fans of dinosaurs, dodos and much more, while the Pitt Rivers has a wealth of archaeology and anthropology exhibits. Both are free to visit.
• Shop for unique souvenirs. Oxford has some interesting stores in and around the Covered Market and the High. The sprawling Blackwell's bookshop on Broad Street is also worth a visit.

WHAT TO SEE & DO IN OXFORD

Explore Oxford's 'Dreaming Spires'

The University of Oxford — like its rival and my alma mater, Cambridge University — is renowned for its unique collegiate system. Students apply to one of the university's 43 colleges, rather than to the university itself. If admitted, they live and usually have tutorials (sessions with two or three students and their tutor) at their college. But lectures, labs and seminars (and, of course, exams) are organised by the university at its departments.

If you're interested in the history of the university, which dates back to the 11th century, I'd highly recommend taking a guided tour with Oxford Official Walking Tours. You'll learn a lot about the university and its colleges, from its founding to present-day student life, and will see many of the most famous sights. Various special interest tours, from Harry Potter to C.S. Lewis and J.R.R. Tolkien, are also available.

You can also visit and see many of the colleges and university buildings by yourself. I recommend heading to Radcliffe Square, just off the High, where you admire the iconic Radcliffe Camera and the University Church of St Mary the Virgin (climb the tower for a great city view).

Just around the corner, take a glimpse at Hertford Bridge (the Bridge of Sighs), which crosses New College Lane and then head to the Bodleian Libraries — the university library, often called 'The Bod.' You can see the buildings from the Old Schools Quad, but you'll need a ticket to go inside the stunning Divinity School and Duke Humfrey's Library. 

Among the largest and most popular colleges to visit are Christ Church (with its huge and impressive Tom Quad and its Great Hall that inspired Hogwarts Hall) and Magdalen (pronounced MAWD-lin, which has beautiful cloisters, a 16th century bell tower and sprawling gardens, including a deer park).

If you fancy peeking inside one or two other colleges, the opening times and any fees are listed here. New College (Oxford 'new', so 14th century!) Trinity, Exeter (alma mater of Tolkien and Philip Pullman, among others; its chapel is pictured below) and Balliol (one of Oxford's three oldest colleges) are lovely. I also love Queen's College but it's rarely open to the public.

History meets culture in Oxford's museums 

As a city with such a rich academic history, it's no surprise that it boasts several excellent museums. Better yet, most of them are free to visit, including The Ashmolean, which was established in 1863 on Beaumont Street as the university's museum of art and archaeology. It has excellent permanent collections, from Egyptian mummies to modern art, and hosts well curated temporary exhibitions.

Over on Parks Road is a grand, 19th century building that houses both the University Museum of Natural History and the adjacent Pitt Rivers Museum, which focuses on archaeology and anthropology. Both museums are free to visit and great for kids: there's a huge Megalosaurus skeleton, a rare early dodo specimen (Alice would be pleased), many more natural specimens and a wealth of cultural and ethnographic exhibits.

Oxford is the location of numerous scientific and medical breakthroughs, from the development of penicillin to the first identification of a living cell. Learn more about these and many other scientific developments at the Museum of the History of Science on Broad Street (free to visit).

Modern Art Oxford (free) is also worth a visit, and although the Story Museum does charge for admission, it's very popular with kids, including my niece. 

Punt along the Cherwell

Punts are long, narrow, flat-bottomed boats found mainly in Oxford and Cambridge — although the punter stands at different ends in the two cities. You can rent a punt (£32 per hour for up to 5 people) or hire a punt guide at Magdalen Bridge Boathouse. Unlike in Cambridge, you won't see many colleges from the river (apart from Magdalen) but the River Cherwell — a tributary of the Thames — it's still a very scenic, fun and relaxing way to explore Oxford. Top tip: if your punt pole gets stuck, stay with the boat, not the pole!

Magdalen Bridge itself is a good place to stand to take photos of punts on the river and of Magdalen College and its Great Tower. Oxford is famous for its May Morning celebrations. Thousands of people stay out drinking all night, before heading to Magdalen Bridge to watch Magdalen College's choir sing from the top of the tower at 6 am.

Decompress in Oxford's green spaces

Christ Church Meadow is a lovely place for a quiet stroll in nature. Enjoy views of the colleges or head down to the river to watch rowers from both college and city clubs.

Oxford Botanic Garden is the UK's oldest botanic garden and, with over 5,000 plant species, it's a delightful place to explore on a sunny day. There's an admission charge but there's lots to see and do inside. A little further east, head to South Park and walk up the slope for the best views of Oxford's 'dreaming spires'.

A short walk north of the city centre, University Parks is a sprawling, 70-acre green space set along the River Cherwell. My school was nearby so I spent a lot of afternoons and evenings there way back when. Look out for Tolkien's bench, play frisbee or walk up to the Cherwell Boathouse for an elevated riverside dinner or to hire a punt.

Just west of Jericho, Port Meadow is another great place for a walk; people have been visiting since the Bronze Age, and the meadow is said not to have been ploughed for at least 1,000 years. Little beaches form along the River Thames — in fact, Conde Nast Traveller rated it one of the best beaches near London (they featured one of my photos, which you can see below)!

Visit Oxford Castle & Prison

During the civil war between King Stephen and Empress Matilda, the latter famously escaped from Oxford Castle during the 1142 Siege of Oxford, dressed in white to camouflage with the snow. The castle is now mostly ruined, although parts of it served as prison from the 18th century. You can climb the tower for panoramic city views, visit (or even stay in!) the former prison cells and explore the castle mound.

Browse bookshops and boutiques

Many of Oxford's most interesting shops can be found in and around the High and the Covered Market. The latter is an indoor market dating back to the late 18th century where you can browse the books at Gulp Fiction, shop for fashion and gifts at Next to Nothing, pick flowers at The Garden, select from a wide range of foodie gifts and much more. 

Just outside the market, Kina Ceramics and Objects of Use are great for jewellery and homewares. Nearby on Broad Street is the original Blackwell's book shop, set over several floors and dating back to 1879. On the High, Babylon Trading is good for gifts and I like to browse for antique coffee prints at Sanders of Oxford.

Further north, Jericho has some excellent independent shops, mainly on Little Clarendon Street and Walton Street. Running twice a month, the North Parade Market is a fab place to visit for local produce, street food and artisan goods.

For Oxford-themed souvenirs, I prefer the museum gift shops, although you can find University of Oxford, Harry Potter and Alice in Wonderland gifts all over town. Most of the usual chain stores can be found on Cornmarket, Queen Street or Westgate Oxford.

Neighbourhoods worth the detour

My favourite Oxford neighbourhoods to explore are Jericho and North Oxford, which has a wealth of independent shops, pubs and eateries, as well as many pretty colourful houses. It's also the home of Oxford University Press and the Oxford English Dictionary. Alternatively, head east to Magdalen Road, which runs between the Iffley and Cowley Roads. This area has a great sense of community and is a wonderful destination for foodies (see below!).

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN OXFORD

If you're looking for the best specialty coffee spots in Oxford, I have a separate guide for that, which I update regularly. For other food and drink recommendations, keep on reading. I've been frequenting some of them for more than 30 years; others are welcome new additions! My top favourites are highlighted with an asterisk.

City centre

Central eateries:

• Dishoom Permit Room. Permit Room is the sister restaurant of Dishoom, a popular group of modern Indian restaurants, styled on the Irani cafés of Bombay. The food is tasty, with small plates that are good for sharing.
• Edamamé. I first had sushi at Edamamé over two decades ago and it's still my favourite spot for authentic Japanese food in Oxford.
• George & Danver. For the best ice cream in Oxford, look no further than the 'G and Ds' cafes: George & Danver on St Aldate's, George & Delia on the Cowley Road and George & Davis on Little Clarendon Street. I've been indulging there since I was a teenager; Dime Bar Crunch is still my favourite flavour, although they often vary them.

• No 1 Ship Street. A cosy brasserie serving modern British fare, No. 1 Ship Street also has a very good value set lunch menu.
• * Quod. Quod has been a regular go-to for my family for over 20 years. We've had many memorable meals here, from Sunday lunches to birthday dinners and even wedding celebrations! The extensive modern European menu rarely disappoints, and the spacious restaurant looks out onto the High, with a pleasant terrace at the back.

• Sartorelli's. A great place for Neapolitan pizza, Sartorelli's is located in the middle of the Covered Market. There isn't a lot of seating, but if it's a nice day, you can get your pizza to take away and enjoy it al fresco.
• Taylors of Oxford. I am definitely biased because I used to work there as a weekend and holiday job while at school, but Taylors still does the best made-to-order sandwiches in Oxford. Fun fact: I once served Paul McCartney and Heather Mills soup and a salad in the 58 High Street location!

Central pubs:

• The Bear. One of Oxford's smallest pubs is also one of the oldest, with a history dating back to 1242. It's also known for its huge collection of ties!
• The Head of the River. Central Oxford doesn't have many pubs on the river and the Head of the River, by Folly Bridge, is my go to. There's a large outdoor beer garden — great for watching the rowers and canal boats cruise past.
• The King's Arms. Dating back to 1607, the King's Arms is another venue with a claim to be Oxford's oldest pub (it's complicated, OK?). It's close to The Turf but is more spacious, so it's a great place sit with a pint after visiting the nearby university quarter.

• Morse Bar. The Randolph Hotel features so often in the Inspector Morse series that it even named a bar after the curmudgeonly titular detective. The Morse Bar is elegant but cosy and serves creative, well-mixed cocktails and other drinks.
• * The Turf Tavern. Dating back to 1831, The Turf is tucked away down a narrow alleyway off New College Lane. It has a small but nice garden and a good selection of beers. Its customers of decades past include Margaret Thatcher, C.S. Lewis and Bill Clinton, who allegedly smoked marijuana but 'did not inhale' there as a Rhodes Scholar.

• The Varsity Club. For a sweeping view of Oxford with your drink, climb up the many stairs to the rooftop bar of the Varsity Club. They serve food too, but I prefer to go for a pre-dinner drink or two, especially if there's a good sunset.

East Oxford

• * Arbequina. Reservations are highly recommended at this fantastic tapas bar set inside a former chemist, whose vintage signage remains on the storefront. Luckily, they are opening a second restaurant in the Covered Market later in 2025. Go with an empty stomach to try as many of the dishes as possible, from deep-fried burrata to beef shin ragù. 

• * The Chester Arms. Famous for both its Sunday roasts and its sharing steak platters, The Chester Arms is a hidden gem, just off the Iffley Road in East Oxford. You can't book for Sunday lunch, but if you arrive at 11:30 am, you should get a table as soon as they open at noon. The pork belly with all the trimmings was delicious and the portions are absolutely huge.
• Hamblin Bread. This excellent Iffley Road bakery recently opened a second location in the Covered Market. As well as bread, they sell excellent sandwiches, pastries and sweet treats, as well as deli goods.
• * The Magdalen Arms. Another popular spot for Sunday lunch in East Oxford, the Magdalen Arms also does great lunch and dinner on other days of the week. With its modern British menu, relaxed setting and friendly staff, it's long been a family favourite of ours.

• * Oli's Thai. Back in the beforetimes, it was very hard to get a reservation at the always-booked-up Oli's Thai. Then, post-lockdown, it reinvented itself as Elle's Deli. They still serve selected dishes from the Oli's Thai menu at lunchtime and on evening pop-ups, but I was delighted to learn that Oli's will be reopening in September 2025. Better start warming up your booking finger!

• Taste Tibet. I came across Taste Tibet while waiting to pick up food from Oli's Thai during lockdown, across the road, and I'm glad I did. The curries and Tibetan street food are delicious! 

Jericho & North Oxford

• Brasserie Blanc. If you can't quite stretch to a meal at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Raymond Blanc's relaxed, modern Bistro on Walton Street is a worthy alternative. The steaks are on point (especially when cooked à point) and there's a great list of wine and cocktails.
• Gatineau. Head to Summertown for an incredible selection of divine pastries, cakes and other sweet treats. 
• Mamma Mia. Another family favourite of ours, Mamma Mia has locations on Walton Street and South Parade (note that in Oxford, North Parade is actually south of South Parade; it's to do with Civil War boundaries!). Both pizzerias are friendly and relaxed, with good pizza and pasta dishes.
• Pierre Victoire. Cosy and relaxed French bistro on Little Clarendon Street with good-value prix fixe menus.
• * Pompette. Book ahead to get a table at Pompette, especially at weekends. The buzzy modern French brasserie is well worth the jaunt up to Summertown. I always order the steak frites, but the menu always includes a variety of tempting dishes. Start with a well-mixed cocktail and try to save room for dessert!

For a pint or aperitif in Jericho, I would try The Jericho or Jude the Obscure on Walton Street. The Rose & Crown, on North Parade is great for a post-market drink or live jazz on Sunday nights. There aren't very many top-notch cocktail spots in Oxford but Raoul's on Walton Street is an exception. I've been enjoying their expertly mixed cocktails since I was of drinking age!

Oxford also has a lot of the usual regional and national chain restaurants. Most of these can be found around George Street and Westgate Oxford.

PLACES TO STAY IN OXFORD

Oxford has relatively limited quality accommodation for a city of its size. My biggest tip is to book well in advance, especially if you are visiting at a weekend and/or during summer. When I used to work booking accommodation at the tourist information centre, we had visitors show up at 3 pm on a Saturday hoping to stay in a historic hotel. Instead, we had to book rooms up to 30 miles away in Reading and Banbury.

There are now some lovely hotels in and around the city centre, many of them in grand, historic buildings — including a former bank, a former prison, a former department store and one that featured prominently in the Inspector Morse series!

• The Randolph. This five-star hotel has long been synonymous with luxury accommodation in Oxford. I stayed at the Randolph a few Christmases ago when there was no room at the inn (my parents' home!). The décor is beautiful and my room was comfortable, quiet and well appointed. Head to the Morse Bar for a nightcap or take afternoon tea at the Alice Restaurant. There's also a delightful spa.

• Malmaison Oxford. Ever fancied staying in a former prison? Malmaison lets you do just that. Don't worry: the rooms are now much more luxe, and the location, next to Oxford Castle is convenient for both the city centre and the train station.
• The Old Bank. Impeccably located in the heart of the university on the High, the Old Bank is a five-star hotel in an impressive, historic building. Rooms are modern and elegant, many with great views, especially the stunning penthouse. 
• The Old Parsonage. A short walk north of the city centre, the Old Parsonage is a beautiful five-star hotel filled with old-world elegance, located in a historic, honeyed-stone building. It's a great option if you want to stay outside the hustle and bustle of central Oxford.
• The Store. Right in the heart of the city, The Store is Oxford's newest boutique hotel opening. I used to spend a lot of time there shopping for toys in its previous incarnation as Boswells department store. I haven't stayed there yet, but I've been a couple of times for drinks and nibbles and it's elegant, but relaxed, with spa facilities on site.

• Vanbrugh House Hotel. A boutique hotel with comfortable, characterful rooms, Vanbrugh House is situated in the heart of the city centre, opposite the Oxford Union on St Michael's Street. I had a very enjoyable stay there a few years ago. 

For the full Oxford student experience, check out University Rooms to find accommodation available within the colleges. You'll usually have more luck outside Term time.

For a really special stay, book a room at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, Raymond Blanc's luxurious manor house and two-Michelin-star restaurant a few miles east of Oxford in the village of Great Milton. I've never stayed there (it's so close to my parents' village that it would be a little over-indulgent!) but I've eaten at the restaurant a couple of times, enjoying incredibly delicious meals in a beautiful setting. There's even a direct bus to and from Oxford, subsidised by Le Manoir, which runs every hour all day, every day.

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