With Easter approaching, I took advantage of the long weekend to book a spontaneous city break in Riga. Compact and walkable, the Latvian capital blends rich history with a creative energy and beautiful architecture, from the pastel-hued Old Town to elegant Art Nouveau landmarks. Planning a trip to Riga? Read on to find out how I spent 72 hours in the city, with recommendations for places to eat, drink, shop, stay and explore.
After enjoying my time in Tallinn, I was keen to visit Estonia's Baltic neighbour. Riga has a lot in common with the Estonian capital, from their pretty Old Towns, to the history, culture, design and accessible nature. I arrived on Friday evening, just before 8 pm -- an hour before sunset, which made for a lovely golden hour stroll through the historic centre to my hotel. My flight home was late on Monday afternoon, giving me 72 hours in Riga.
With three days in Riga, you can see the main sights in the Old Town and the Art Nouveau neighbourhood, visit a museum or two, explore Riga’s dining scene and even take a day trip to the pine-lined beaches of the Baltic Coast.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN RIGA
Explore the history and charm of Old Riga
Riga’s compact Old Town – Vecrīga – is best explored on foot. Many of the city’s most iconic buildings are here, including the House of the Black Heads (a striking 14th-century merchant's house), St Peter’s Church (the city's oldest church), Riga Castle and the wonky trio of Medieval buildings known as The Three Brothers.
At the heart of the Old Town is Doma Square — home to Riga's largest Christmas market in December and the site of the first public Christmas tree, way back in the 16th century. Visit early in the morning for a more serene stroll and unobstructed views of the House of the Black Heads and other architecture.
To get your bearings, I recommend the Old Riga Free Tour with Riga Free Tours. Our guide, Arturs, took us on a lively and informative walk through Riga's history, from its Livonian roots to the arrival of German traders in the 13th century, to 20th century occupations and, eventually, Latvian independence.
On the walking tour, we saw a lot of the main Old Riga sights, including the Cat House, a Medieval-style building with two black cats perched atop the turrets. Various tales (tails?) exist about the cats — their backsides may or may not have once been rotated to face the neighbouring Great Guild in protest. Of course, since the release of the Oscar-winning Latvian animation Flow, black cats feature heavily in Riga’s merchandise!
Look out too for the quirky Town Musicians of Bremen sculpture – a tribute to the Brothers' Grimm fairy tale. Rubbing all four animals is said to bring good luck, which is no mean feat if you're short like me!
The tour is free to join (book your place online in advance), and you can tip by card or via a web link — handy if, like me, you rarely carry cash. Riga Free Tours also runs themed tours covering alternative Riga, Art Nouveau and Soviet history.
Climb St Peter’s Church for panoramic views
My walking tour started outside St Peter’s Church, and Riga's oldest church was
almost always visible during my time in the city. Originally built during
the 13th century, the gothic-style church has been rebuilt and
repaired many times during its history. For €9, you visit the church and
take the small lift to the 72-metre viewing platform near the top of its spire.
There, you can enjoy panoramic views across the city – if it’s a clear day, you
can even see the Baltic Sea.
Dive deeper into Latvia's 20th century history
The Museum of the Occupation of Latvia, located next the House
of the Black Heads in Doma Square, is a great place to learn more about Latvia’s complex and
often troubling 20th century history, under Soviet, German and
Russian occupations, and the fight for independence, finally achieved in 1991. The
exhibits are informative and often moving and there are guided tours in English
available.
After visiting the museum, viewing the Freedom Monument on Brīvības bulvāris will feel even more meaningful.
Admire elegant Art Nouveau architecture
Just north of the Old Town is Riga’s Art Nouveau district where you can find a wealth of grand and elegant buildings in the Jugendstil architectural style. You can take a guided tour, covering many of the key highlights, but otherwise, take a stroll along Alberta iela (constructed during the early 20th century) and Elisabetes iela and let your eyes scroll upwards. If your phone or camera has a gridline feature, it’s worth turning it on to help you line up the perfect photo. I clearly need some more practice!
Other notable buildings include the golden-domed Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ, the Latvian National Opera and the Latvian National Museum of Art.
Given the damage to and destruction of much of Riga's Old Town during the 20th century, it's somewhat ironic that some of the Art Nouveau architecture is actually older than many Old Town buildings.
Discover parks and village vibes across the Daugava
Riga’s Kalnciema Quarter is about 30 minutes’ walk (or a
short bus or tram ride) across the Daugava River from the Old Town. With its traditional-style
wooden houses, pretty gardens and parks and laid-back atmosphere it has a
lovely village vibe. If you’re visiting on a Saturday, don’t miss the Kalnciema Quarter Market, where locals gather to shop for produce and artisan goods and eat
street food in the restored outdoor courtyard. I had a delicious grilled
chicken pita. Bring some cash as not all vendors accept card payments.
I was there in the spring and the cherry trees were blooming in nearby Victory Park. Walk by the canal, take a ride on the big wheel or enjoy a picnic (stock up at the market).
Riga has many beautiful buildings and the Church of the Holy Trinity is one of the most stunning – it’s certainly one of the most colourful, with strawberry-pink walls and blue domes. For authentic Neapolitan pizza with an incredible view of the church, check out Street Pizza, just down the road.
Take a day trip to Jūrmala's Baltic beaches
Riga is only 12 miles from Jūrmala, where pine forests meet the beach on the Baltic Coast. It takes about 30 minutes by train from Riga central station (€4 return — don't forget to validate your ticket when you get on the train).
I got off at Dubulti station, exploring some of cultural sites, including the modern art gallery at the station, The Cone (a massive silver pinecone sculpture) and the vibrant turquoise St Vladimir Orthodox Church, before making a beeline for the beach.
There's a 2km ‘wellness trail’ through the pine forest or you can just enjoy the soft golden sand. In early spring, the beach was fairly quiet — a lovely peaceful place for a stroll in nature, although the sea was much too cold for swimming.
I headed back along the beach to central Jūrmala, where there was a livelier vibe around the Baltic Beach Hotel & Spa. A few blocks inland is Jomas iela, Jūrmala’s pedestrianised main drag, where you can find lots of eateries and shops in traditional-style buildings, as well as another beautiful church at the Dzintari (eastern) end. I was there during the Easter Sunday festivities near Majori station: traditional Latvian dancing, a food and craft market and an Easter egg hunt.
I caught the train back to Riga from Majori station (one stop closer to Riga), but you can return from Majori, Dzintari or Dubulti, depending on your preference. And for a more active option, rent a bike or join a tour to Jūrmala through the scenic pine forests.
Shop for local souvenirs and
Unfortunately, a lot of the design stores on my list (including
Riija and Soyka Secret Garden) were closed for the Easter
weekend. But I did like visiting Etmo (wool and linen fashion and homewares), Lotte’s
Papery (gorgeous stationery) and Baltic Gifts.
The Old Town has a huge number of souvenir shops, mostly selling woollen goods, black cat fridge magnets, shot glasses and amber jewellery, among other things. Prices may be a little cheaper in Riga’s huge Central Market, where you can also buy fresh food and produce.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN RIGA
Riga’s Old Town is filled with many eateries and bars,
mainly catering to the tourist crowds (I saw one bar advertising 50 shots for €25 – eek!). If you’d like to try some traditional Latvian fare, head to one
of the hugely popular Lido restaurants, which most locals recommend. The food
is tasty and very good value.
Chic eats in the Art Nouveau district
I mostly ate in and around the Art Nouveau district, where I was staying. I had a lovely dinner at Snatch, a cool restaurant serving creative twists on modern Italian food and cocktails (hello, peanut butter Manhattan!) I loved my vitello tonnato and strozzapreti pasta with rabbit. It's a popular spot and worth booking a table, especially at the weekend (by phone only).
If you can’t get a table at Snatch, the same team also runs Boo the Burger, or try Street Pizza or This Place Doesn't Need a Name, an all-day eatery – and Riga’s first negroni café. At the latter, I had a tropical gin cocktail instead of a negroni, but it was expertly mixed, and paired well with my spicy grilled tuna and quinoa.
Another good option in this area is Babo, a modern Georgian restaurant with beautiful interiors and delicious food. Don’t miss the khinkali (dumplings) – which I followed with a grilled chicken pita. And just across the street is Lowine, an eatery popular for its brunch and natural wines (unfortunately, I didn’t have time to eat there on this trip).
Fine dining in the Old Town
For a really special meal, look no further than 3 Pavāru (three
chefs), a fine-dining restaurant on the northern edge of the Old Town,
recommended by the Michelin Guide. At €99 for six courses (plus snacks),
it’s incredible value and the food was delicious and beautifully presented: from the work-of-art that was the bread course, to melt-in-the-mouth scallops
and the candied-cucumber, apple and pistachio dessert. I sat at the counter where I could
watch the talented chefs at work. Check out my Instagram for more highlights of this wonderful experience.
Cool cocktail spots
My favourite bar of the trip was Gimlet, a Nordic cocktail spot specialising in – you guessed it – gimlets. The intimate, low-key bar has an extensive, creative menu, featuring homemade syrups and juices. The friendly bar tenders informed that nettle season had just started so I ordered the nettle gimlet, which was herbaceous and tart. I couldn't resist a second cocktail, and the 'magic mushroom' old fashioned was delicious — the perfect combination of smooth, smoky and sweet.
As it was such a sunny weekend, I headed to Herbārijs, a botanical-inspired bar on the rooftop of the Galleria Riga shopping centre. The bar itself is set in a gorgeous greenhouse, filled with verdant plants. But as it was so warm, I sat outside on the terrace, enjoying the view of Riga’s rooftops. My gin, melon and elderflower cocktail tasted great. For a cocktail with an even higher view, check out the Skyline Bar on the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel.
Stay tuned for my upcoming post about the excellent
specialty coffee shops, cafes and bakeries I visited in Riga, but particular favourites
were Kalve Espresso Room and Rocket Bean.
WHERE TO STAY IN RIGA
I got a great deal on the five-star Grand Poet Hotel & Spa, paying
around £100 per night for a standard double, including breakfast and spa access. The location was ideal – overlooking
leafy Bastejkalna Park (the sightseeing cruises looked fun!), away from the hustle and bustle but just five minutes’ walk from
the Freedom Monument, the Old Town and the Art Nouveau neighbourhood.
Set in a large, 19th century building, the design hotel has funky interiors and my room was spacious, quiet and comfortable. The included breakfast was impressive, with an extensive hot and cold buffet and even bubbly available alongside the fruit juices.
Best of all is the stunning spa, a sanctuary located in the basement. I visited every day, swimming in the marble-walled pool, relaxing in the jacuzzi and enjoying the various steam and sauna rooms. It was a lovely place to chill out and rest my aching muscles after a busy day of touristing.
I loved my stay at the Grand Poet and would definitely stay there again. Other hotels on my shortlist included the Dome Hotel (unfortunately fully booked up during my trip), the Wellton Riverside Spa Hotel, Tribe and the Grand Hotel Kempinski. For a quieter stay, I'd recommend the Art Nouveau district, where you'll still only be a short walk from all the main sights.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Riga International Airport (RIX) is six miles west of the city centre. The public bus (number 22) is a convenient way to get to the Old Town, running every 12 minutes at peak times and taking about 25 minutes. Tickets cost €1.50 one way — you can buy a ticket from the machines at the terminal (don't forget to validate it on board) or pay the driver by card. Get off just after the bus crosses the river and then walk or take another bus to your hotel.
Alternatively take a taxi or Bolt car into town (about €20 to 30). My hotel concierge mentioned the Lux Express airport bus (€4), which stops in the Art Nouveau district, but it hadn't launched yet.
Riga is easy to explore on foot, but there are lots of tram and bus routes throughout the city centre. You can buy a 90-minute ticket from one of the machines or pay the driver on board. Head to the train station, for trips to Jūrmala and the Baltic Coast — or longer journeys to Vilnius and Tallinn.
NEED TO KNOW
For packing tips for Riga – and other European city breaks –
check out my Riga packing guide, which also includes my review of the hugely
popular Osprey Daylite 26+6 Expandable backpack.
- sveiki (SVAY-key) – hello
- lūdzu (LOO-dzoo) – please
- paldies (PAL-dee-uss) – thank you
- jā (YAH) – yes
- nē (NAY) – no
No comments:
Post a Comment