Long-time readers know that I was lucky enough to call Cambridge my home for six years. But since moving to London over 16 years ago, I haven't been back as often as I should. I decided to make the most of last Saturday's glorious weather by taking a day trip, exploring Cambridge's 'town' and 'gown' sides. Read on to discover my ultimate itinerary for a perfect day in Cambridge: things to do and places to eat, drink and shop.
I spent four wonderful years studying linguistics at St John's College and then couldn't quite bring myself to leave Cambridge. Luckily, after graduating, I got a job in scientific publishing in an office just across the street from my college. Over the next few years, I explored more of the 'town' side of Cambridge before the call of London eventually got too strong.
This day trip, nearly eight years since my last visit, was both a homecoming and a chance to see the city through a tourist’s eyes. Cambridge is compact and you can easily get a taste of both its university heritage and local culture in a day. With its museums, parks, independent shops and eateries and centuries of history, it’s hard not to fall in love with Cambridge.
Cambridge Day Trip Itinerary
The fastest trains from London to Cambridge are Great Northern services from King's Cross, which take about 50 minutes. As I live near London Bridge, I took the Thameslink train from there — a slightly longer journey (1h25) but one that runs direct to Cambridge. Tickets are usually cheaper if you travel off-peak, and you can get 1/3 off with a Network Railcard.
From the station, it's a 25-minute walk to the city centre, though buses are also available. Cambridge is best explored on foot, but watch out for its many (often speedy) cyclists, even in 'pedestrianised' areas.
9:30 — But first, coffee
Cambridge was where I first got a taste for coffee and cafe culture, although back then the quality of the coffee wasn't great. Fortunately, the city is now home to several excellent specialty coffee shops.
The first, and still one of the best, is Hot Numbers, located in a former brewery on Gwydir Street, just off Mill Road. I first visited in 2013 and it remains a wonderful spot. I stopped by for an impeccably brewed cortado, managing to find a table despite the Saturday brunch rush.
If you're starting in the city centre, try Bould Brothers on Round Church Street. This tiny, stylish cafe has only a few seats so you may need to grab a takeaway coffee, as I did. My piccolo, brewed with their Colombian house espresso, had a lovely sweetness and impressive latte art. Stir on Chesterton Road is another great specialty coffee shop.
10:00 – Art and activism
From Hot Numbers, I walked to the Fitzwilliam Museum on Trumpington Street. Founded in 1816, this grand university museum houses an impressive art and antiquities collection.
While there, I visited Rise Up, a powerful exhibition about the battle to abolish slavery in Britain. If it's still running during your visit, I highly recommend it: the art and other exhibits highlighting the fight for equality and social justice are superb. The museum has a 'pay what you wish' policy, with contactless donation points throughout.
11:30 – Walk, or punt, through history
When I visit a new city, I take a guided tour to get my bearings. Although I'm no newbie, I booked a 90-minute Cambridge Highlights Tour (£20 if you book online) to learn more about the city beyond the university. Various other walking tours are available including one highlighting women who shaped Cambridge's history and one led by Cambridge alumni.
Our guide Max was fantastic, walking us through Cambridge's history, from its early days as an important regional trading post, long before the university was founded in 1209. I spent plenty of time in the market as a student (mostly queuing for late-night kebabs!) but didn’t realise it dates back to Anglo-Saxon times.
We also learned about Cambridge's military and scientific history at The Eagle, a 17th century pub where RAF pilots once gathered. It's also where James Watson and Francis Crick discussed their work on the structure of DNA, carried out with Rosalind Franklin and Maurice Wilkins. Fun fact: I later worked at Nature where their groundbreaking 1953 paper was published!
After a stop by the curious Corpus Clock, we visited Trinity College, passing by many other historic colleges along the way, as Max shared insights into Cambridge's unique collegiate system.
If the weather's good, a guided punt tour is a nice alternative. Unlike in Oxford, the river flows through the grounds of several of Cambridge's most famous colleges, including Trinity, King's and my own St John's. You'll get great views of the Backs (the picturesque college lawns along the river), King's College Chapel, Trinity's Wren Library, the Bridge of Sighs and much more.
Punt guides often share fun stories about the colleges. Some of these are apocryphal, but regardless of their historical accuracy, you're bound to have an enjoyable ride. You can pick up tours on Magdalene Bridge or Silver Street; it's a good idea to book in advance during peak season.
13:00 – Michelin-recommended lunch
The Cambridge dining scene has come on a long way since my student days. To be fair, I ate mainly in college — why not when a three-course dinner in formal hall was only £4.50? — and sometimes stopping for a late night 'plain plain burger' at Gardies, which is still going strong!
This trip, I was there on a graduation day, so many places were booked up but I got a table at Mercado Central, a Spanish restaurant on Green Street, which is recommended in the Michelin Guide. The set lunch menu is very good value and I very much enjoyed my beef cheeks with mash and lentils, followed by an almond tart.
For an indulgent and memorable meal, look no further than Midsummer House or Restaurant Twenty-Two, which have two and one Michelin stars respectively. I've celebrated special occasions at both and they never disappoint.
14:30 – Explore the colleges
After lunch, stroll through a few of the colleges you spotted from your punt. Visiting times and prices vary, so check ahead if there's one you really want to visit.
I am biased, but if you get the chance to visit St John's, you won't regret it. Founded in 1511 by Lady Margaret Beaufort (mother of Henry VII), it's one of the largest and most beautiful colleges, with a mix of Tudor and Neo-Gothic architecture. It’s home to the famous Bridge of Sighs and has a talented choir who sing evensong in the college chapel.
On Saturday, I got a rare glimpse inside the 17th century Old Library, which houses many important manuscripts and artefacts, from former students like William Wordsworth and Douglas Adams. The college's storied list of alumni is enough to make anyone feel inadequate!
Suffice it to say, it was an inspiring place to study and I was privileged to live in college for three years, starting in the Brutalist Cripps Building, before moving to the 19th century New Court cloisters and finally to the 16th century First Court, above the dining hall where we had formal dinners by candlelight.
Next door to St John's is its bigger, richer rival, Trinity. Don't miss the clone of Isaac Newton's legendary apple tree, located outside the main gate, or the Wren Library, which houses rare editions of works as diverse as Newton's Principia and A.A. Milne's Winnie the Pooh!
King's College, founded by Henry VI as a sister institution to Eton, is perhaps best known for its 15th century chapel. The iconic building is truly impressive and if you get the chance to listen to the world-renowned college choir singing evensong, it makes for a memorable occasion.
16:00 – Indulge in retail therapy
After all that history, it's time to shop for souvenirs, gifts — or gifts to self. Cambridge has lots of unique shops, including Ark (homewares), Iris & Violet (womenswear and accessories), Home County Co (county-themed candles and fragrances), Heffers (books) and The Haunted Bookshop (used books).
If you're visiting on a Saturday, check out the arts and craft market in All Saints Garden. In my fourth year, I lived next door, above the Cambridge Cheese Company on All Saints Passage, where you can also find Hill St Chocolates and Jack's Gelato.
17:00 – A pint of history
The Eagle on Bene't Street is perhaps Cambridge's most famous pub and it's a great place to enjoy a pint with plenty of history and character. It's often very busy, though, so it's worth scouting a few alternatives. The Champion of the Thames on King Street is great for real ale. I spent a lot of time at The Maypole, which was the closest pub to both my college and my first office and the Fort St George (I lived just across the river).
Otherwise, head to Mill Road, a neighbourhood one mile southeast of the city centre famous for its many independent restaurants, cafes and shops. It also has some of the city's best pubs: try The Kingston Arms, The Alex or The Cambridge Blue.
19:00 – A memorable meal on Mill Road
Vanderlyle on Mill Road has been on my to-visit list for a long time (not just because I'm a fan of The National!). The fine-dining restaurant offers an innovative vegetarian tasting menu, which sounds incredible. Note, though that they only open Tuesday to Friday evenings and you'll need to be quick off the mark when reservations become available.
Also on Mill Road, try Fancett's, a French bistro, or for something more casual, head to Scott's All Day, where the Detroit-style pizza and other Italian–American fare comes highly recommended. I was still in the city centre, so opted for a quick but tasty cheeseburger at Steak & Honour on Wheeler Street.
21:00 – Cocktail chemistry at The Lab
For a fitting Cambridge nightcap, head to The Lab on Regent Street. Their science-inspired cocktails are creative and fun: from Hawking's Big Bang to the Molecular Mango Martini (served with excellent theatre). I went for the Radical Bond, a twist on an Old Fashioned, served under a smoke-filled cloche.
If you have had a cocktail or two and are heading back to London, make sure you get on the train to King's Cross not King's Lynn! Yes, I did make that mistake once and had to crash with a friend in Ely as there were no more trains to London.
Make a weekend of it
If you have more time, why not spend the weekend in Cambridge? You could take a side trip to Ely, take afternoon tea in the lovely village of Grantchester or just spend more time in Cambridge, climbing the tower at Great St Mary's Church, walking along the River Cam, exploring Mill Road or visiting Castle Hill or the Botanic Garden.
Looking for a place to stay in Cambridge? It's much easier to find quality accommodations now than it used to be. Friends and family members of mine have had enjoyable stays at the University Arms (pictured below), the Hotel Du Vin and the Varsity Hotel. Clayton House is convenient for the station and The Graduate by Hilton Cambridge is very close to colleges and the river.
If you've ever wondered what it's like to stay in a Cambridge college, University Rooms lets you do just that. Availability is better outside term time and although rooms can be quite basic, they are all comfortable and many are very characterful. The picture below is from my third-year room at St John's — a pretty nice view!
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