The Caffeine Chronicles: Calico Coffee

If you're partial to a perfectly brewed pourover coffee, there's never been a better time to visit London. One of the newer additions to the city's specialty coffee scene is Calico Coffee, a beautiful café in the Waterloo neighbourhood. I've visited several times since it opened in December, drawn back by the well-curated coffee menu, welcoming staff and peaceful design.

It’s located on Lower Marsh, one of the most characterful streets in the area and home to one of London’s oldest street markets, as well as a host of independent shops, bars and eateries. The street is mostly pedestrianised but can get very busy during the day thanks to the bustling market.

Inside, Calico Coffee is a zen-like haven away from the bustle of Waterloo. The café is small but beautifully designed with a dark-wood U-shaped counter at its heart and an overhead lighting panel that creates a subtle cube-like frame around the space. 

You order at the front, where the espresso machine sits, and can then take a seat at the far side, in front of the pourover bar. Along one wall, wooden shelves display magazines, ceramics and other works by Chinese artists.

Calico's pourover menu is extensive and very well curated. During my visits, there were eight coffees on offer, including some particularly special limited-edition Panama Geshas. After chatting to the barista about my tastes, they recommended an anaerobic natural from Panama's Candela Highlands.

I took a seat at the brew bar, where I could enjoy watching the baristas at work. The coffee was right up my street with juicy berry and pineapple flavours that came through very nicely, especially as it cooled. It smelled delicious too — so much so that the person sitting next to me asked what I was drinking and then ordered the same!

On my next visit, I wanted to try an espresso-based drink and ordered a piccolo with the house espresso. This was a blend of coffees from Kenya, Yunnan and Brazil and it worked perfectly with a little milk, creating a smooth, well-balanced taste.

I paired my coffee with a black sesame sponge cake. Filled with custard, the cake was perfectly moist and sweet — but not too sweet — and a great accompaniment to an impeccably brewed piccolo. This time, I sat by the front window at one of the small, colourful tables — a lovely spot for people-watching on Lower Marsh.

Calico sells a wide range of retail bags of coffee — both their own coffees, in the translucent sienna-coloured packaging, and various coffees from guest roasters. Sadly, I didn't spot any calico cats during my visit (maybe next time!), but you can find nods to their feline inspiration in the branding throughout the café — including the stickers available at the counter.

Calico Coffee. Unit C, 101 Lower Marsh, London, SE1 7AB (Tube: Waterloo or Lambeth North). Instagram.

For 150+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, check out my London specialty coffee guide.