MY BRIGHTON & HOVE MAP
BRIGHTON WEEKEND ITINERARY
Saturday
10:00 — Coffee and breakfast
Brighton has a thriving specialty coffee scene and there are many excellent coffee shops within a short walk of the train station. Bond St Coffee, Dandy, Pelicano and Triple Point are some of my favourites. Take a look at my Brighton specialty coffee guide for more recommendations. You can pick up a pastry or other sweet treat at any of them, but for a bigger choice of breakfast bites and baked goods, try Flint Owl or The Flour Pot.
11:00 — History and culture on a walking tour
For a local's perspective on Brighton's history and vibrant art and culture, join a walking tour. Real Brighton Tours and Only in Brighton run informative and entertaining walking tours. Alternatively, visit the grand Royal Pavilion, completed in the early 19th century for the future King George IV. Its OTT Chinese-inspired interiors belie its Indian-inspired architecture. And when you're wandering, look out for the murals, street art and colourful houses in North Laine, especially in and around Trafalgar Street and Kemp Street.
13:30 — A taste of the sea
Head to the seafront for a bite to eat — I always find that seafood tastes better in the exhilarating sea air and with a sea vie (so does most food). When the weather is kind, I love to get fish and chips from Regency or Little Jack Fullers and eat it on the beach. Just keep an eye out for the lurking seagulls!
15:00 — Shopping and La(i)ne-hopping
Some of Brighton's best independent boutiques can be found in the maze-like collection of historic, brick-paved streets known as The Lanes. The nearby North Laine neighbourhood is less labyrinthine but just as enjoyable for a stroll and shopping (or window shopping, at least). I've listed some of my favourite shops below but these are just a few of the many highlights.
Dowse, Abode, HOLD, Workshop, Dormitory, &halt and Polka Dot Interiors (gorgeous homewares); Posh Totty and Breakout Jewellery (jewellery); Covet , Tidy Street General Store, Lucy & Yak and Sugarhill (women's fashion); Papersmiths (stationery); Era and Snoopers Paradise (vintage); Pussy, Bert's Homestore and Toby Tiger (beautiful and/or useful gift ideas); Goldsboro Books (books); and Resident Music (records).
19:00 — A delectable downtown dinner
Brighton has a diverse range of excellent restaurants. Whatever cuisine you feel like eating, Brighton is your oyster. Recently, I've enjoyed superb suppers at Embers (wood-fired cooking and top-notch cocktails), The Flint House (great value tasting menus) and Tutto (pasta and seasonal Italian sharing plates).
21:00 — Anyone for a nightcap?
Brighton is not short of drinking establishments. From historic pubs to intimate cocktail spots and lively bars and clubs that keep the hen and stag parties dancing, there's something for every taste. The Golden Pineapple in The Lanes has a huge selection of tequila and mezcal and a fantastic cocktail menu (don't miss the £8 drinks from the 'R&D' menu on Wednesdays and Sundays). I also like the creative cocktails at The Plotting Parlour, which has locations in Kemptown and Hove.
Sunday
9:00 — Morning swim by (or in) the sea
Lovely as Brighton's beaches are, the *glorious* English weather often means that the sea is less appealing for a swim. Sea Lanes, an outdoor pool and leisure complex a short walk east from the Palace Pier, offers a more appealing alternative. Take a dip in the heated 50-metre pool or warm up in one of the sauna pods. Either way, you'll work up an appetite for breakfast.
10:30 — Brunch o'clock
17 GRAMS in The Lanes is one of my favourite Brighton brunch spots, with its extensive menu (including various veggie and vegan options) and locally roasted coffee. Find them by the giant Alice in Wonderland mural. Alternatively, head to Redroaster, which has several cafés that offer more breakfasty brunch dishes as well as lunchier options. They also roast their own coffee, which is very good indeed.
11:30 — Rove to Hove
Spurred on by your brunch, it's time to head back to the seafront and stroll west to Hove. If it's a nice day, visit the i360, a 138-metre observation tower that offers excellent aerial views over Brighton and the surrounding Sussex countryside. Pay your respects to the remains of the ill-fated West Pier and take in the colourful beach huts in Hove.
13:30 — Lazy lunch on Church Road
A couple of blocks in from the seafront, Church Road is the main drag in bohemian Hove, with its myriad eateries and boutiques. Scout out your perfect lunch venue, from Neapolitan pizza at Fatto a Mano and brunch and tapas at La Tapa Loca, to shellfish and craft beer at The Urchin. Wild Flor isn't always open on Sundays, but their monthly Sunday Lunch Club — £50 for four courses — is very popular.
15:00 — Indulge your creative side
16:00 — Coffee stop and final shop
Stop for coffee at Dharma, Wolfox or 44 Poets, and drop by some of Hove's independent shops like Velvet, Imi Loa, Nick Rivett Sport, City Books and Capsule Records. On the way back to central Brighton, don't miss Atelier Beside the Sea — one of my favourite boutiques, which sells jewellery, art, homewares and other lifestyle goods.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Trains from London Victoria (Southern) and London Bridge/St Pancras (ThamesLink) take about an hour to reach Brighton's main station, although engineering works at weekends can add to this. The station is a short walk from the city centre but depending on where you are staying, London Road, Hove and Preston Park, among other stations, may work better. Central Brighton and Hove is small enough that it's easy to explore on foot but there's also a good network of local buses.
WHERE TO STAY
Artist Residence is a quirky, arty boutique hotel on Regency Square, one block from the seafront near the i360. The eclectic rooms are cosy and comfortable — I was in the attic and although my room was small, it had a lovely sea view. There's also a fab bar and restaurant on the ground floor.
I stayed most recently at the Hotel du Vin, on Ship Street in The Lanes — a pebble's throw from the sea, as they put it. I've been to various Hotel du Vins over the years and they are one of my favourite boutique hotel brands. Instead of a number, each room is named for a different wine and is tastefully decorated and very well appointed. Although I stayed in the smallest room type ('cosy'), I had a little private terrace area, which was a nice touch. The restored 19th century building also features a great French bistro and bar.
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