28 March 2019
Six Specialty Coffee Shops To Visit in Tallinn
For a compact city, Tallinn has an impressive variety of specialty coffee spots. During my weekend break in the Estonian capital, I visited six of them and there were several more that made my shortlist but which are closed at the weekends.
18 March 2019
The Caffeine Chronicles: Crispin
Crispin, a new all-day eatery in Spitalfields, might be the pointiest café I've been to, and happily, the coffee and food are also on point. The geometrically striking glass and zinc building is located on the corner of Crispin Street and White's Row, a block south of Spitalfields Market. It's run by the team behind Lundenwic, the small Aldwych coffee shop that made it into my 2016 food and drink awards. As such, my expectations were high.
I first came across Crispin late last summer on my way to Spitalfields Market, but I was a day early: the venue hadn't quite opened. Several months later, I return for a late Saturday brunch. I worry that I'm a little too late as it's very busy inside, but the staff find a space for me at the high table at the window, just opposite the counter. There are more tables further back, and with its large windows and light-wood furniture, it's very light and airy inside despite the confines of the shape of the space. On more clement days, there is additional seating on the terrace.
The coffee is from Assembly and Round Hill Roastery, two of my favourite UK roasters. There's a Costa Rican Round Hill coffee available as a filter coffee, but I opt for a piccolo with a Guatemalan Finca Rabanales espresso roasted by Assembly. With its smooth milk chocolate and caramel notes, this coffee tastes great with a little milk.
The brunch menu is very appealing, with some more classic brunch dishes, and others that offer a few creative twists. The French toast with ice cream, seasonal fruit and pistachio sounds great, for example, and the couple sitting next to me wax lyrical about the coconut daal. I decide to order the parmesan scrambled eggs on sourdough, with avocado, chilli and chorizo. When it arrives, I'm delighted to see the pillowy clouds of parmesan that cover the egg. The dish reminds me of the last brunch I had at White Mojo during my trip to Melbourne in 2017. Needless to say, it is delicious and I finish every last bite.
If you are in the mood for something stronger than a coffee, there's an extensive wine and cocktail menu at Crispin. And if you're too late for brunch, there's a small but well-curated and ever-changing evening menu too. I particularly like the option to have 'one of everything' on the evening menu for £28 per person. What's not to like?
Although it's busy, with a regular stream of customers ordering coffee to go as well as would-be brunch patrons, the service is efficient and friendly. When I say, "oh wow!" on seeing my brunch dish, the server beams and replies that that is exactly the kind of reaction they love to hear.
Crispin. The Pavilion on The Corner, White’s Row, London, E1 7NF (Liverpool Street). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
I first came across Crispin late last summer on my way to Spitalfields Market, but I was a day early: the venue hadn't quite opened. Several months later, I return for a late Saturday brunch. I worry that I'm a little too late as it's very busy inside, but the staff find a space for me at the high table at the window, just opposite the counter. There are more tables further back, and with its large windows and light-wood furniture, it's very light and airy inside despite the confines of the shape of the space. On more clement days, there is additional seating on the terrace.
The coffee is from Assembly and Round Hill Roastery, two of my favourite UK roasters. There's a Costa Rican Round Hill coffee available as a filter coffee, but I opt for a piccolo with a Guatemalan Finca Rabanales espresso roasted by Assembly. With its smooth milk chocolate and caramel notes, this coffee tastes great with a little milk.
The brunch menu is very appealing, with some more classic brunch dishes, and others that offer a few creative twists. The French toast with ice cream, seasonal fruit and pistachio sounds great, for example, and the couple sitting next to me wax lyrical about the coconut daal. I decide to order the parmesan scrambled eggs on sourdough, with avocado, chilli and chorizo. When it arrives, I'm delighted to see the pillowy clouds of parmesan that cover the egg. The dish reminds me of the last brunch I had at White Mojo during my trip to Melbourne in 2017. Needless to say, it is delicious and I finish every last bite.
If you are in the mood for something stronger than a coffee, there's an extensive wine and cocktail menu at Crispin. And if you're too late for brunch, there's a small but well-curated and ever-changing evening menu too. I particularly like the option to have 'one of everything' on the evening menu for £28 per person. What's not to like?
Although it's busy, with a regular stream of customers ordering coffee to go as well as would-be brunch patrons, the service is efficient and friendly. When I say, "oh wow!" on seeing my brunch dish, the server beams and replies that that is exactly the kind of reaction they love to hear.
Crispin. The Pavilion on The Corner, White’s Row, London, E1 7NF (Liverpool Street). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
For 100+ more of my favourite coffee shops in London, please check out my speciality coffee guide.
11 March 2019
A Sumptuous Sunday Supper at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons
A few months ago, my parents invited me to attend a 'come-and-sing Fauré's Requiem' they had organised as a special celebration in the church of Great Milton, a village just down the road from the Oxfordshire village I grew up in. I accepted with pleasure — on the condition that I didn't have to sing myself — and I then found out that we would be going to 'the local' for a celebratory supper afterwards. And yes, the local in Great Milton happens to be a certain establishment called Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons.
After a successful concert, we walk five minutes down the road to Raymond Blanc's two-Michelin-star hotel-restaurant. It is dark by then but I managed to catch the honeyed-stoned buildings — resplendent in the golden hour sunshine of an unseasonably warm February day — during a break. Just inside the door are assorted pairs of wellies — guests of the hotel are encouraged to explore the gardens and grounds. We hand over our coats and then take a seat in one of the lounges.
The first challenge is to decide whether to order the seven-course tasting menu (£190) or a three-course à la carte (specialités du moment; £175). It's already 8 pm on a Sunday and so we decide to opt for the latter. I order a lemon, raspberry nectar and gin cocktail, which I enjoy with a beautifully presented amuse-bouche selection. The textures and flavours are tantalising, the tuna tartare being my favourite. Needless to say, my bouche is very satisfied.
After we have ordered, we are led through into the dining room. It may go without saying that the service at Le Manoir is good, but it really is exceptional throughout the evening: warm and unobtrusive; nothing is too much trouble for the wait staff. The place settings at our table are lovely too, with a centrepiece of early spring flowers.
Before the starters arrive, we have another 'snack': a small glass with pumpkin soup, served with blue cheese and a biscotti; this, I remember, also appeared on the tasting menu so I'm glad I get to try it. I'm also trying hard not to eat too much of the delicious fresh bread (I go for the one with bacon, of course). My starter — langoustine with truffle and Jerusalem artichoke — materialises soon afterwards. I am not usually fond of truffles or other fungi, but the delicate slices here are beautifully prepared and make the perfect foil for the langoustine.
Torn between Dover sole and beef for my main course, I end up ordering the latter, a medium fillet of Angus beef, with braised Jacob's ladder (short rib), pomme purée and a red wine jus. This was one of the nicest beef dishes I've had for a long time — juicy and perfectly tender — and my plate was soon clean.
For pudding, I choose the pistachio and cocoa soufflé, which is rather larger than I expect. It's sinfully rich too, although the pistachio adds a lighter contrast, and I finally regret eating so much bread (although only a little bit). Although I don't usually go for chocolate and coffee combinations, on seeing my dad's pudding (a chocolate cup containing the layers of a cappuccino), I think I could have made an exception.
We retire to the sitting room for coffee and petits fours. Well, I choose a manuka infusion rather than a coffee, which is a nice complement to our final sweet treats. The raspberry 'jelly' is my favourite, although the chocolate and caramel concoction is lovely too. After polling our group as to whether the chocolate mushroom tastes of mushroom or just resembles a mushroom, I decide to give that one a miss; it has been a fun-filled night, but I have had my fill of fungi.
Overall, it has been a wonderful evening. Every meal — and snack — is delicious and beautifully presented, the setting relaxed, and the service impeccable. I am lucky enough to have eaten at Le Manoir before, although traffic problems on my way out of London meant my meal was rather more rushed than planned. And I'd certainly be more than happy to return for another special meal some day.
Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. Church Road, Great Milton, Oxford, OX44 7PD. Website. Twitter. Instagram.
After a successful concert, we walk five minutes down the road to Raymond Blanc's two-Michelin-star hotel-restaurant. It is dark by then but I managed to catch the honeyed-stoned buildings — resplendent in the golden hour sunshine of an unseasonably warm February day — during a break. Just inside the door are assorted pairs of wellies — guests of the hotel are encouraged to explore the gardens and grounds. We hand over our coats and then take a seat in one of the lounges.
The first challenge is to decide whether to order the seven-course tasting menu (£190) or a three-course à la carte (specialités du moment; £175). It's already 8 pm on a Sunday and so we decide to opt for the latter. I order a lemon, raspberry nectar and gin cocktail, which I enjoy with a beautifully presented amuse-bouche selection. The textures and flavours are tantalising, the tuna tartare being my favourite. Needless to say, my bouche is very satisfied.
After we have ordered, we are led through into the dining room. It may go without saying that the service at Le Manoir is good, but it really is exceptional throughout the evening: warm and unobtrusive; nothing is too much trouble for the wait staff. The place settings at our table are lovely too, with a centrepiece of early spring flowers.
Before the starters arrive, we have another 'snack': a small glass with pumpkin soup, served with blue cheese and a biscotti; this, I remember, also appeared on the tasting menu so I'm glad I get to try it. I'm also trying hard not to eat too much of the delicious fresh bread (I go for the one with bacon, of course). My starter — langoustine with truffle and Jerusalem artichoke — materialises soon afterwards. I am not usually fond of truffles or other fungi, but the delicate slices here are beautifully prepared and make the perfect foil for the langoustine.
Torn between Dover sole and beef for my main course, I end up ordering the latter, a medium fillet of Angus beef, with braised Jacob's ladder (short rib), pomme purée and a red wine jus. This was one of the nicest beef dishes I've had for a long time — juicy and perfectly tender — and my plate was soon clean.
For pudding, I choose the pistachio and cocoa soufflé, which is rather larger than I expect. It's sinfully rich too, although the pistachio adds a lighter contrast, and I finally regret eating so much bread (although only a little bit). Although I don't usually go for chocolate and coffee combinations, on seeing my dad's pudding (a chocolate cup containing the layers of a cappuccino), I think I could have made an exception.
We retire to the sitting room for coffee and petits fours. Well, I choose a manuka infusion rather than a coffee, which is a nice complement to our final sweet treats. The raspberry 'jelly' is my favourite, although the chocolate and caramel concoction is lovely too. After polling our group as to whether the chocolate mushroom tastes of mushroom or just resembles a mushroom, I decide to give that one a miss; it has been a fun-filled night, but I have had my fill of fungi.
Overall, it has been a wonderful evening. Every meal — and snack — is delicious and beautifully presented, the setting relaxed, and the service impeccable. I am lucky enough to have eaten at Le Manoir before, although traffic problems on my way out of London meant my meal was rather more rushed than planned. And I'd certainly be more than happy to return for another special meal some day.
Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. Church Road, Great Milton, Oxford, OX44 7PD. Website. Twitter. Instagram.