Peruvian Brunch at Señor Ceviche

I had hoped that my main holiday of the year would be a trip to Peru — Lima and Machu Picchu have long been high on my travel to-do list — but I've had to reorganise these plans. The next best thing was to go for brunch at the new Fitzrovia location of Señor Ceviche. I never made it to the original branch of the Peruvian BBQ and ceviche joint on Carnaby Street, but the soft-launch klaxon is the loudest sound I ever heard and so over to Charlotte Street I skipped last Saturday.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect from the décor but Señor Ceviche is beautiful, from its sunny front terrace, offering excellent people-watching opportunities, to the sleek interiors, which are all chocolate leather and vibrant turquoise accents.

The weather hadn't quite decided what it was going to do yet, so I played it safe with a table next to the terrace, which was just as good for watching Fitzrovia file past, but less susceptible to the elements. While I perused the menu, the waitress brought some moreish cancha (toasted corn) for me to snack on. I also ordered a Pisco Sour (£8.50); when in Lima... The cocktail menu looked interesting and you can also go for the 'boozy brunch club' option, which gives you unlimited refills of three cocktails for £18. The Pisco Sour was fruity and refreshing, though, and paired very nicely with my food.

The menu was divided into three sections — para picar (snacks), ceviche, and brunch & BBQ — and suggested ordering at least three dishes per person. This flummoxed me a little, because I had already picked out my brunch dish (the sweet potato waffle; £12) and figured I could start with a portion of ceviche clas íco (£8), but wasn't sure what else to try — or whether I'd have room. Three dishes sounded like a lot for brunch! As there was 50% off food during the soft launch, I decided to go for a cheeky third dish anyway and decided on the chifa chicharrones (crispy pork belly; £7).

Dishes are brought from the kitchen as soon as they are ready and my ceviche arrived first. I first got into ceviche a few years ago and never seem to get many opportunities to eat it. The Señor's take was very good, though: extremely fresh and fragrant, with the contrasting textures and flavours coming through very nicely. Next came the pork belly, four small cubes of crispy, tender deliciousness, which I couldn't stop eating, even though I was trying to save room for the main event.

The view might not have been as good, but the beef short rib and waffle makes a worthy rival for Duck & Waffle's titular dish. Served with black beans and a fried duck egg, the slow-cooked beef melted in my mouth, and the sweet potato waffle made for a pleasant change from your average griddled brunch goods. There was also miso sauce — a hint at the Japanese influences that recur throughout the menu, reflecting the Nikkei cuisine found in Peru. I think I would have been happy with almost any of the brunch dishes, though, and found myself eyeing up my fellow diners' meals, trying not to experience menu regret.

Although I finished every bite of my food, I think two dishes would have been perfectly fine for me for brunch. That said, as I was dining alone, I was happy that I got to sample (and indeed devour) three diverse dishes during my meal. Meanwhile, the staff were friendly and attentive, and the excellent food — and the cocktail, I suspect — put a South American spring in my step as I strode out into the sunshine to enjoy the rest of my afternoon.

Señor Ceviche. 18 Charlotte Street, London, W1T 2LZ (Tube: Goodge Street). Website. Twitter. Instagram.