31 March 2017
The Caffeine Chronicles: Jericho Coffee Traders, Oxford
Jericho Coffee Traders is a relative old guard of the Oxford specialty coffee scene. Owners James and Lizzie Armitage have a roastery off Walton Street in the titular Jericho neighbourhood just north of the city centre, and a distinctive turquoise Vespa Piaggio Ape, which serves coffee on the go. Their coffee also features at various Oxford cafes.
29 March 2017
The Caffeine Chronicles: Curve Pop-Up Brew Bar (CLOSED)
Barely a month ago, I was enjoying a very fine cortado at Blackburn Coffee in Paris when I made a resolution to try more coffee from Curve Roasters, the Margate-based roaster whose coffee was in the Blackburn hopper that weekend. By happy coincidence, I didn't have long to wait because last weekend, Curve came to me. Well, technically, they came to open up a pop-up brew bar at Nape, the excellent new charcuterie bar and deli in Camberwell, but who's counting?
Camberwell's main drag, Camberwell Church Street, has some great restaurants (Silk Road, of course, among many others) and three of my favourite south-east London coffee shops: Daily Goods, Lumberjack and The Pigeon Hole. Nape itself is located just down from Camberwell Green, near the junction with the wonderfully named Artichoke Place. They open at noon at the weekend and from 5 pm during the week for cured meats and drinks, and I've noticed a few tastings on their website — both gin and whiskey.
For the next few weekends (excluding London Coffee Festival, of course) Curve will be taking over the bar from 9–2 pm and serving brewed coffee and doughnuts, and as I'm not going to be in London for many weekends in April, I prioritised a visit last Saturday after a brunch nearby with the girls.
Beyond the understated, grey exteriors of the shopfront, Nape was bathed in sunlight and its minimalist interiors accented with cheery daffodils when I visited, and the welcome from the lovely Jon and Teresa from Curve was just as warm. There are a few stools perched next to the bar with plenty more — of both high and low varieties — towards the back of the space. The interiors are very industrial-chic: monochrome stools paired with the white tiles and non-nonsense steel of the bar itself.
As well as a selection of doughnuts and croissants, there were no fewer than five filter coffees on offer when I visited, three hand-brewed (£3) and two batch brew (£2). Overwhelmed by the selection and (if I'm honest), more than a little caffeinated already, I ordered on the basis of the flavour profiles — the delicate, floral washed Chelelektu from Ethiopia seemed to go with the gloriously warm sunshine. Brewed through the V60, the coffee was light but flavoursome and came beautifully presented (I particularly love the cups, which were made especially for the pop-up).
I realised too late that I had missed the chance to try a Papua New Guinean Maga variety, so I'll have to cross my fingers and hope there will be other opportunities when I next return. My friend, who lives just around the corner, stopped by on Sunday and was impressed by her coffee too, and she and her young daughter were made to feel very welcome.
Curve's brew bar will be at Nape (21 Camberwell Church Street, London, SE5 8TR (Denmark Hill Overground) on 1 & 2, 15 & 16 and 22 & 23 April 2017 — but keep an eye on their Instagram. You can also catch them at the London Coffee Festival, which is on from 6–9 April 2017.
Camberwell's main drag, Camberwell Church Street, has some great restaurants (Silk Road, of course, among many others) and three of my favourite south-east London coffee shops: Daily Goods, Lumberjack and The Pigeon Hole. Nape itself is located just down from Camberwell Green, near the junction with the wonderfully named Artichoke Place. They open at noon at the weekend and from 5 pm during the week for cured meats and drinks, and I've noticed a few tastings on their website — both gin and whiskey.
For the next few weekends (excluding London Coffee Festival, of course) Curve will be taking over the bar from 9–2 pm and serving brewed coffee and doughnuts, and as I'm not going to be in London for many weekends in April, I prioritised a visit last Saturday after a brunch nearby with the girls.
Beyond the understated, grey exteriors of the shopfront, Nape was bathed in sunlight and its minimalist interiors accented with cheery daffodils when I visited, and the welcome from the lovely Jon and Teresa from Curve was just as warm. There are a few stools perched next to the bar with plenty more — of both high and low varieties — towards the back of the space. The interiors are very industrial-chic: monochrome stools paired with the white tiles and non-nonsense steel of the bar itself.
As well as a selection of doughnuts and croissants, there were no fewer than five filter coffees on offer when I visited, three hand-brewed (£3) and two batch brew (£2). Overwhelmed by the selection and (if I'm honest), more than a little caffeinated already, I ordered on the basis of the flavour profiles — the delicate, floral washed Chelelektu from Ethiopia seemed to go with the gloriously warm sunshine. Brewed through the V60, the coffee was light but flavoursome and came beautifully presented (I particularly love the cups, which were made especially for the pop-up).
I realised too late that I had missed the chance to try a Papua New Guinean Maga variety, so I'll have to cross my fingers and hope there will be other opportunities when I next return. My friend, who lives just around the corner, stopped by on Sunday and was impressed by her coffee too, and she and her young daughter were made to feel very welcome.
Curve's brew bar will be at Nape (21 Camberwell Church Street, London, SE5 8TR (Denmark Hill Overground) on 1 & 2, 15 & 16 and 22 & 23 April 2017 — but keep an eye on their Instagram. You can also catch them at the London Coffee Festival, which is on from 6–9 April 2017.
27 March 2017
[H]AND by Has Bean Coffee Pop-Up at Uniqlo, Oxford Circus (CLOSED)
I don't really need any more reasons to visit Uniqlo's London flagship store near Oxford Circus, which relaunched this time last year. I shop regularly at Uniqlo, particularly in the winter when I live in their HeatTech thermal tops and ultra-light down jackets. As such, when I heard that there would be a temporary brew bar serving hand-brewed filter coffee from Has Bean at Uniqlo for the next three months, I didn't think there could be a pop-up more perfectly tailored to me.
[H]AND has been open for just over a week now, which means you still have almost eleven more weeks to check it out. As I seem to have so few free weekends in London at the moment, I was glad that I had a day off work on Friday for some shopping, cinema and, of course, coffee. I arrived at Uniqlo fairly late in the day but the store was still busy. [H]AND is on the third floor and although you can take the lift up, you might then miss out on the retail opportunities along the way.
The brew bar is set up at the front of store and, like Uniqlo itself, has cool, minimalist stylings: a white-brick wall, a pared-down sans-serif logo and the wooden brew bar itself with a quartet of Kalita Wave drippers lined up ready and waiting for action.
[H]AND has been open for just over a week now, which means you still have almost eleven more weeks to check it out. As I seem to have so few free weekends in London at the moment, I was glad that I had a day off work on Friday for some shopping, cinema and, of course, coffee. I arrived at Uniqlo fairly late in the day but the store was still busy. [H]AND is on the third floor and although you can take the lift up, you might then miss out on the retail opportunities along the way.
The brew bar is set up at the front of store and, like Uniqlo itself, has cool, minimalist stylings: a white-brick wall, a pared-down sans-serif logo and the wooden brew bar itself with a quartet of Kalita Wave drippers lined up ready and waiting for action.
The menu is pretty simple: there are three single-estate coffees, brewed through the Kalita, and three single-batch teas (from Lalani & Co) on offer each day, and you can order a single cup for £3 or a flight of three for £8. I ordered the tasting but because I have a strange form of reading problem whereby my brain blocks out tea from menus, I was thus surprised when Pete, the super-friendly barista, asked whether I wanted a coffee or a tea flight. I'm sure the teas were lovely but naturally, I was in the market for the hard stuff.
The three coffees of the day were from Colombia, Guatemala and Bolivia. Bolivian coffees hold a special place in the heart of Has Bean head honcho Stephen Leighton, Pete told me. Bolivia is land-locked and it is actually rather difficult to export coffee from the country. Indeed, I couldn't remember the last time I'd tried a Bolivian coffee so I was looking forward to trying it out.
The three coffees of the day were from Colombia, Guatemala and Bolivia. Bolivian coffees hold a special place in the heart of Has Bean head honcho Stephen Leighton, Pete told me. Bolivia is land-locked and it is actually rather difficult to export coffee from the country. Indeed, I couldn't remember the last time I'd tried a Bolivian coffee so I was looking forward to trying it out.
I stood at the bar chatting to Pete while he brewed up my flight and a fourth coffee for another customer — no mean feat and I certainly enjoyed the theatre and the ritual (after all, when in a Japanese store...). It helped that the brew bar wasn't too busy at that point, which meant there was no need to rush and plenty of time to enjoy the experience.
There are four battered but very comfortable leather armchairs set up around a large coffee table near the bar. With a large rug on the floor and plenty of foliage, it was almost like having coffee in a friend's living room, albeit one with coffee on demand and shopping opportunities. The small café makes for a peaceful haven in an otherwise hectic Oxford Street store.
I tried the Colombian coffee first (in the left or at the top in my photos), which was very drinkable indeed. Then, I moved on to the Guatemalan, the Ciudad Vieja Los Jocotales, which had some really lovely berry notes. Finally, I sampled the Bolivian (Vincent Paye — the name of the farmer, although the farm itself doesn't really have a name), which was probably furthest out of my comfort zone, but a really interesting and complex coffee, with apricot and coffee notes coming through very nicely indeed. All three were very well brewed but I think the Bolivian might have been my favourite.
In case you want a souvenir from your trip and don't need to stock up on any Uniqlo clothing, a beautifully stocked shelf next to the brew bar has bags of retail coffee beans and teas and some gorgeous coffee brewing kit, including the stunning copper Kalita Wave Tsubame (named for the northern Japanese city where it is handmade). I already have far too much coffee-making kit for one person, so I restrained myself from this purchase, although I'm sure I will be back to [H]AND before too long to try some more coffee and to stock up on some Has Bean beans — particularly if they still have any of the Vincent Paye left. I repeat: there are still eleven weeks to go, so enjoy [H]AND while you can! For another perspective, you can also read a review of [H]AND by Brian at Brian's Coffee spot here.
[H]AND by Has Bean @ Uniqlo. 311 Oxford Street, London, W1C 2HP (Tube: Oxford Circus). The pop-up has now ended.
There are four battered but very comfortable leather armchairs set up around a large coffee table near the bar. With a large rug on the floor and plenty of foliage, it was almost like having coffee in a friend's living room, albeit one with coffee on demand and shopping opportunities. The small café makes for a peaceful haven in an otherwise hectic Oxford Street store.
I tried the Colombian coffee first (in the left or at the top in my photos), which was very drinkable indeed. Then, I moved on to the Guatemalan, the Ciudad Vieja Los Jocotales, which had some really lovely berry notes. Finally, I sampled the Bolivian (Vincent Paye — the name of the farmer, although the farm itself doesn't really have a name), which was probably furthest out of my comfort zone, but a really interesting and complex coffee, with apricot and coffee notes coming through very nicely indeed. All three were very well brewed but I think the Bolivian might have been my favourite.
In case you want a souvenir from your trip and don't need to stock up on any Uniqlo clothing, a beautifully stocked shelf next to the brew bar has bags of retail coffee beans and teas and some gorgeous coffee brewing kit, including the stunning copper Kalita Wave Tsubame (named for the northern Japanese city where it is handmade). I already have far too much coffee-making kit for one person, so I restrained myself from this purchase, although I'm sure I will be back to [H]AND before too long to try some more coffee and to stock up on some Has Bean beans — particularly if they still have any of the Vincent Paye left. I repeat: there are still eleven weeks to go, so enjoy [H]AND while you can! For another perspective, you can also read a review of [H]AND by Brian at Brian's Coffee spot here.
[H]AND by Has Bean @ Uniqlo. 311 Oxford Street, London, W1C 2HP (Tube: Oxford Circus). The pop-up has now ended.
16 March 2017
Book Review: Almost Missed You by Jessica Strawser
After years of missed connections, Violet and Finn — the couple at the centre of Jessica Strawser's début novel, Almost Missed You — finally find themselves in the right place at the right time, and they soon marry and have a son together. Violet feels that she is truly happy at last and she loves to tell new acquaintances the 'unbelievable' story of how she and Finn met. But after deciding to spend a few extra minutes reading on the beach on a rare family holiday, Violet returns to her hotel room to find no sign of either Finn or their son — and, indeed, no sign that they were ever there at all.
As Violet's worst nightmare becomes an even worse reality, she turns to her best friend Caitlin for comfort, but Caitlin was Finn's best friend first and may know more than she is letting on — about both the disappearance of Finn and Bear and the terrible secrets that lie in Finn's past. With alternating chapters told from the perspective of Violet, Caitlin and Finn, Strawser skilfully guides the reader towards the novel's dramatic climax, asking the question of how well we can ever really know another person — even someone we love deeply.
Strawser's narrative is very gripping, with the back-story being fleshed out with flashbacks to Violet and Finn's first meeting — also on a beach, as a result of a big coincidence, before fate intervened, tearing them apart before they could exchange details — and their various encounters, near misses and attempts to find each other over the following years. I've always been a sucker for tales of missed connections and coincidences (see also Serendipity) and Strawser does a great job of making the reader root for past-tense Violet and Finn.
The characterisation was a little spottier — although we come to comprehend the pain and loneliness in their pasts as the story progresses, Violet often seems rather wet (if sympathetic), while Finn is incredibly unlikeable for much of the novel, his actions hard to accept even when we begin to understand the motivation for his actions. Caitlin is, in many ways, a more interesting and complex character, whose friendship with both Violet and Finn puts her in an impossible position, particularly when her own past actions may come back to haunt not just her but her friends and family too.
The ending didn't fully satisfy me, but I enjoyed the journey and read the book in a single sitting. There are plenty of twists too — some of which I guessed, although others still surprised me — and I think Almost Missed You would make a great holiday read.
Disclaimer: Almost Missed You will be published by St Martin's Press on 28 March. I received a pre-release copy via NetGalley. All opinions are my own.
As Violet's worst nightmare becomes an even worse reality, she turns to her best friend Caitlin for comfort, but Caitlin was Finn's best friend first and may know more than she is letting on — about both the disappearance of Finn and Bear and the terrible secrets that lie in Finn's past. With alternating chapters told from the perspective of Violet, Caitlin and Finn, Strawser skilfully guides the reader towards the novel's dramatic climax, asking the question of how well we can ever really know another person — even someone we love deeply.
Strawser's narrative is very gripping, with the back-story being fleshed out with flashbacks to Violet and Finn's first meeting — also on a beach, as a result of a big coincidence, before fate intervened, tearing them apart before they could exchange details — and their various encounters, near misses and attempts to find each other over the following years. I've always been a sucker for tales of missed connections and coincidences (see also Serendipity) and Strawser does a great job of making the reader root for past-tense Violet and Finn.
The characterisation was a little spottier — although we come to comprehend the pain and loneliness in their pasts as the story progresses, Violet often seems rather wet (if sympathetic), while Finn is incredibly unlikeable for much of the novel, his actions hard to accept even when we begin to understand the motivation for his actions. Caitlin is, in many ways, a more interesting and complex character, whose friendship with both Violet and Finn puts her in an impossible position, particularly when her own past actions may come back to haunt not just her but her friends and family too.
The ending didn't fully satisfy me, but I enjoyed the journey and read the book in a single sitting. There are plenty of twists too — some of which I guessed, although others still surprised me — and I think Almost Missed You would make a great holiday read.
Disclaimer: Almost Missed You will be published by St Martin's Press on 28 March. I received a pre-release copy via NetGalley. All opinions are my own.
13 March 2017
The Caffeine Chronicles: Louie Louie (CLOSED)
UPDATE: Unfortunately, Louie Louie's Walworth Road cafe is now closed but you can still visit them at their Elephant Park location, Little Louie.
Louie Louie is a new venture from the team behind Fowlds, the café/upholsterers that has long been one of my Camberwell favourites. Serving food and drink with chef Oded Oren's Tel Aviv twist, including coffee from Square Mile and brunch at the weekends, Louie Louie is a great addition to a bustling, unpretentious stretch of the Walworth Road.
I arrived just after 10 am on a rainy Saturday morning and, as I had heard reports of long-ish wait times, I was pleased to find that there were still several tables available; by the time I left, the place had filled up — and happily, they do take bookings.
I arrived just after 10 am on a rainy Saturday morning and, as I had heard reports of long-ish wait times, I was pleased to find that there were still several tables available; by the time I left, the place had filled up — and happily, they do take bookings.
From the outside, it's a little hard to believe you are still in Walworth and not somewhere like Nolita in New York. The café is beautiful with a contemporary, minimalist design and a space that is bright and airy, even on a grey day, thanks to the large front windows and white and light-wood décor. There are several smaller tables at the front and some larger spaces along the side, as well stools at the central bar.
The brunch menu includes a few smaller items — pastries, banana bread and granola — and, on the day I visited, three tempting brunch specials, one sweet (french toast with bacon, maple syrup and blueberries) and two savoury. There were also two baked egg dishes available to share, which I hope to sample when I return with my brunch club later this month.
The brunch menu includes a few smaller items — pastries, banana bread and granola — and, on the day I visited, three tempting brunch specials, one sweet (french toast with bacon, maple syrup and blueberries) and two savoury. There were also two baked egg dishes available to share, which I hope to sample when I return with my brunch club later this month.
In the end, I ordered the cornbread with fried eggs and tomato salsa (£8), adding chorizo for an extra £2. The food was really tasty: the eggs were perfectly runny and the salsa was piquant enough to add some spice to the dish. The chorizo was great too, although the portion felt a little stingy.
Coffee-wise, I started with a piccolo (£2.40) made with Square Mile's smooth, nutty Red Brick blend, which was well brewed and tasted very good. There weren't any hand-brewed filter coffees on offer when I visited, but I did try the guest filter (£3) on batch brew, which was a Guatemalan coffee from London-based small-batch roaster Molecular Coffee, which was fruity and flavoursome. If the sun is already over the yardarm, you can also try one of the special brunch cocktails, both of which sounded interesting and delicious; later in the day, there is a longer list of beer, wine and cocktails.
All told, I had an excellent brunch at Louie Louie and I'm looking forward to returning again to sample more of the menu in a few weeks' time. I also plan to come back at night, when I imagine the ambience is quite different. Just be prepared to have Louie Louie's namesake song (whether it's The Kingsmen's version, The Troggs' or any of the many other covers of Richard Berry's song) in your head for the rest of the day!
Louie Louie. 347 Walworth Road, London, SE17 2AL (Tube: Kennington or Elephant & Castle). CLOSED
Coffee-wise, I started with a piccolo (£2.40) made with Square Mile's smooth, nutty Red Brick blend, which was well brewed and tasted very good. There weren't any hand-brewed filter coffees on offer when I visited, but I did try the guest filter (£3) on batch brew, which was a Guatemalan coffee from London-based small-batch roaster Molecular Coffee, which was fruity and flavoursome. If the sun is already over the yardarm, you can also try one of the special brunch cocktails, both of which sounded interesting and delicious; later in the day, there is a longer list of beer, wine and cocktails.
All told, I had an excellent brunch at Louie Louie and I'm looking forward to returning again to sample more of the menu in a few weeks' time. I also plan to come back at night, when I imagine the ambience is quite different. Just be prepared to have Louie Louie's namesake song (whether it's The Kingsmen's version, The Troggs' or any of the many other covers of Richard Berry's song) in your head for the rest of the day!
Louie Louie. 347 Walworth Road, London, SE17 2AL (Tube: Kennington or Elephant & Castle). CLOSED
09 March 2017
Paris Specialty Coffee Guide — March 2017 Update
After being pleasantly surprised by Paris's booming specialty coffee scene during my weekend trip last June, I had quite the to-do list to work from when I returned last weekend. As our agenda for the weekend consisted mainly of eat–shop–caffeinate, I squeezed in visits to seven new-to-me cafés. I've added these to my Paris coffee map, which I created for my 2016 Paris coffee guide, where you will find more detailed reviews of Coutume, Télescope, Café Craft and Fragments.
07 March 2017
A Paris Weekend in Spring
When I booked Eurostar tickets to stay with my friends in Paris last weekend, I didn't know that it would be the sixth city and fifth country I would be visiting in just over five weeks (see also: Cologne, Barcelona, New York, Boston and Padua, or just my travel section).
Although my 8:31 am train from St Pancras on Friday wasn't prohibitively early, I was sleepy on the journey, especially given that the lengthy queues at security at St Pancras meant that I couldn't get a much-needed second coffee (not that there is anything decent on offer after security). All of this tiredness was soon forgotten when I arrived at Gare du Nord just before noon and stepped out into the Paris sunshine.
03 March 2017
A Weekend in Padua
You wait a lifetime for an Italian wedding two crop up in the space of six months: my cousin’s wedding in Sorrento in August and last weekend, a good friend from university was married in the northern Italian city of Padua (AKA Padova). I’ve been to Venice, 25 miles to the east, a few times, but never to Padua and I was looking forward to visiting a new city and to celebrating with my friend and his friends and family.
01 March 2017
The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: Chelsea, West & East Villages and Tribeca
This is the final post about my coffee experiences on my recent trip to New York, which includes those coffee shops not covered by my guides to Greenpoint, Brooklyn. and the Financial District.
As it turned out, my coffee explorations were both structured and focused as I ventured deeper into these neighbourhoods, and I only visited four new-to-me coffee shops in other parts of the city: one each Chlsea, the West Village, the East Village and Tribeca. I have numerous other coffee spots on my to-do list for these neighbourhoods, but I tend to spend a lot of times in these parts of town so returning won't be a problem.
Terremoto Coffee (Chelsea)
You may feel the Earth move when you visit Terremoto, a petite café near the High Line on West 15th Street, but it will probably be because of the excellent coffee or the gorgeous copper espresso machine rather than the 'earthquake' of its name.
The espresso machine is indeed very lovely but you may also be distracted by the Bien Cuit pastries on the counter when you first walk in. The interiors are rustic chic with red-brick walls, colourful artwork and just a couple of small wooden tables for those who want to drink in.
Terremoto were serving two espressos when I visited, both from the excellent Bushwick-based Lofted Coffee: a fruity Bola del Oro from Guatemala and a Gesha Village from Ethiopia, which I only spotted after I had ordered my cortado. The barista offered to make me another cortado with the Gesha if the Bola del Oro wasn't to my taste but it was hard to find fault with the cortado, which was rich and smooth.
The Elk (West Village)
If ever there was a day New York City was in need of some Scandinavian-style hygge at the small, cosy café and general store that is The Elk, it was the Sunday I visited when the heavy sleet refused to stop for the entire day. With its wood-panelled walls and low lighting, heading into The Elk was almost like visiting a sauna — a mild one, anyway, with very good coffee. There are a dozen or so small tables around the edge of the café but it was completely full when I arrived so I had to hover with my cortado for a few moments before I was able to pounce.
The coffee was good and had I had more time, I would have liked to try a pourover as well. I did make time for an excellent peanut butter cookie, though, and ogled the delicious sounding breakfast and lunch menu (comfort food with a twist). The staff were friendly despite the busyness and, like many spots in the West Village, it's a great place for people-watching.
Coffee Project (East Village)
I read about Coffee Project — a slender East Village coffee bar known for its titular coffee projects, most notably its 'deconstructed lattes' — last year and after I didn't get the chance when I was in New York in October, I made sure I visited last month.
On a cold but sunny Saturday afternoon, the queue was out of the door: the seating is limited and because the fêted deconstructed lattes are 'dine in' only, it can take a little while to find a seat. Meanwhile, the lighting is worthy of a Brian's Coffee Spot award.
The deconstructed latte ($7) involves a shot of espresso, one shot of milk "pasteurized at a lower temperature for a longer period of time to taste similar to raw milk", and a mini-latte with the same coffee as in the espresso shot. Milky drinks — and especially milk as a drink — aren't my thing, but I decided to give the special a go.
The coffee of the day was a Brazilian/Guatemalan blend roasted in Brooklyn. It was nice as an espresso but its chocolatey richness worked better with the milk of the latte. As for the milk shot, I'm not really sure what raw milk is supposed to taste like or why it is desirable, but I didn't have particularly strong feelings about it either way.
Coffee Project also serves a 'nitro flight' (nitro coffee served both black and white), coffee tonic and various sweeter coffee drinks. They serve regular espresso-based drinks too if you are there for the coffee rather than the project. Also, the baristas were incredibly sweet and welcoming, despite the constant stream of Instagramming customers (myself included). As such, if you're feeling experimental, this is a great place to come for coffee.
Gotan (Tribeca)
I've walked past Gotan, which occupies the block of Franklin Street where Varick and West Broadway are about to converge, many times and somehow never made it inside. They serve Counter Culture coffee, as well as breakfast dishes, sandwiches, salads and pastries.
I had already eaten breakfast so I opted for a chocolatey Urcunina coffee from Colombia, brewed through the pourover. Very well brewed, as it turned out, and although Gotan was very busy on the snowy Saturday morning I was there, there is plenty of table space set over several rooms in a historic building with exposed-brick walls and period features, and I enjoyed the lively but relaxed atmosphere.
