18 July 2013

Two If By Sea

After such an early start on Saturday, we took it easy on Sunday morning. We did some exploring in the late morning, before arriving back in the Old Town for lunch at a little Italian restaurant called Segreto, which is a block away from the Stradun but infinitely calmer. 

The food was delicious — I had a pumpkin and quince ravioli — and the restaurant was very chic and stylish, even if we did have to wait nearly an hour for our food.

On Sunday evening, we went for a sea kayaking tour around the city walls, further along the Dubrovnik coast and then around the island of Lokrum. This was several kilometres, in not entirely calm seas — effectively a triple aqua-aerobics session!

We had all the Game of Thrones sights pointed out to us, as well as various other stories about the city, including some of Dubrovnik's more tragic moments in history. It was a really beautiful time of day to explore, even if my arms were killing within a couple of minutes of paddling. The snorkelling break at a secret cove helped, as did the final stretch back into the city, just as the sun was setting.

As we had already had sandwiches in the cove, we finished the evening by visiting another hole-in-the-cliff bar, which we had spotted while kayaking. We had read that there were two bars called Buža — Buža I, which we went to on Saturday, and Buža II, which was supposed to be a little further east along the southern city wall. The bar we found, though, turned out to be called Bard, and we couldn't work out if it was just known as Buža because it was a hole-in-the-wall (which is what buža means) or if it was once called Buža and had been rebranded.

Regardless, Bard is a lovely place to sit and drink, by day or night. During the daytime, you can climb down the steps from the walls into the sea and go for a swim, and at night you can sit with a cocktail and stair into the dramatic Adriatic. They also show movies, apparently.

Segreto. Ulica Cvijete Zuzorić 5 (two blocks south of the eastern end of the Stradun).

Bard. I don't think the address on this Trip Advisor review is correct, but if you go down Ulica kneza Hrvaša, and look out for a hole in the wall near Ulica Od Margarite, you should be able to find it. I wouldn't trust Google Maps too much for this, and for many other apartments, restaurants and bars in the city.

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