I first visited Riding House Cafe, in London’s Fitzrovia neighbourhood, in 2011, soon after it opened. I’ve been back many times since — for breakfast, dinner and everything in between. But it had been a while since my last visit so I was delighted when they invited me back to try their new brunch menu.
When Riding House Cafe opened in 2011, there weren’t many restaurants quite like it in London. Cool but laid-back all-day eateries that work as well for a relaxed weekend brunch as for post-work cocktails and dinner were more common in NYC back then.
I came across Riding House Cafe while flat hunting in Fitzrovia. That first visit, I had a burger and chocolate semifreddo; both were delicious. I went back regularly over the next decade: for girls' brunches, family dinners and even the odd impromptu solo meal.
The original Riding House Cafe is celebrating its 15th anniversary this year and there are now sister restaurants in Bloomsbury and Victoria. It always makes me happy when a restaurant I love not only stands the test of time but also evolves and adapts in tandem with London and its dining scene.
Riding House is marking this milestone with a new brunch menu that brings back several favourite dishes from the past 15 years, and they invited me back to experience it. My friend Sarah joined me and I'm pleased to report that our brunch was as fab as ever.
The cafe itself is bright and spacious, with a long wood-topped bar at its heart. There are various different seating options, depending on your group size and vibe (I still like the wood-panelled side room I sat in on my first visit). There are also tables out on the pavement — ideal for warm summer days.
We started with drinks: coffee for Sarah and a lychee and rose Bellini for me. The cocktails have always been on point here and mine didn't disappoint, though Sarah's piña picante may have been even better (I'm a sucker for pineapple cocktails). The drinks menu also features an extensive wine list, as well as juices, beers and soft drinks.
Then it was time for the main event. The standout brunch dish for me was the CBA sandwich: soft-shell crab tempura, streaky bacon, avocado and black garlic ponzu aioli on a toasted brioche. The crab was perfectly cooked with delicate tempura batter and the dish's flavours combined beautifully.
Sarah's buttermilk fried chicken on French toast also got a resounding thumbs-up, and we shared the prosciutto and 'nduja Benedict: the eggs were perfectly poached and the 'nduja added just the right kick to the hollandaise.
I always save room for dessert, especially if that dessert is hot sticky toffee brioche doughnuts! On the recommendation of our friendly server, we also tried the malted deep-dish pancakes with berries, clotted cream and maple syrup. Both dishes tasted even better than they looked.
After we'd finished, we hung out for a while over coffee — we're old friends so there's always a lot to catch up on! Returning to Riding House Cafe felt like catching up with an old friend again. The food, the warm service and the ambiance were just as I remembered them.
While brunch (including a bottomless edition) is one of Riding House Cafe's signatures, it remains a true all-day dining venue, offering everything from Sunday soul roasts and pre-theatre menus, to seasonal pasta selections and much more besides. I will definitely be back again to try some of these.
Riding House Cafe Fitzrovia. 43–51 Great Titchfield Street, London, W1W 7PQ (Tube: Oxford Circus or Goodge Street). Website. Instagram.
Disclaimer: I was the guest of The Riding House Cafe on this occasion but I’ve dined there many times on my own dime. As always, all opinions here are my own.
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