With a free day on Friday, I decided to get out of London and explore a new-to-me city. Located 60 miles southwest of London, Winchester was the perfect destination for a festive day trip. The cathedral city is steeped in history — from its Iron Age origins to the present day — and it's small enough to explore on foot. There's great shopping and dining, and if the winter weather doesn't play ball there's lots to do indoors, including the spectacular cathedral and Great Hall.
Winchester Day Trip Itinerary
I took the train from London Waterloo to Winchester, a one-hour journey with South Western Railway. Tickets are usually cheaper if you can travel off peak. From Winchester's train station, it's about ten minutes' walk downhill to the city centre; there are buses too. Read on to found out how I spent the rest of my winter's day in Winchester.
10:00 — Specialty coffee stop
Regular readers will know that a specialty coffee shop is always my first port of call on any day trip and I'd been keen to check out Coffee Lab Academy for some time. Originally co-founded by six-time UK Latte Art champion Dhan Tamang, Academy is tucked away on a little alley off the High Street.
It was busy when I arrived so I was lucky to get a table. I decided to go for a cortado with the house espresso blend and a pourover with an Ethiopian coffee from Edinburgh-based guest roaster Obadiah. Both coffees were very well brewed: the cortado was sweet and smooth, while the floral notes of the filter coffee came through really nicely.
On the way to Academy, I spotted a coffee shop called Kavi. I wanted to go back but unfortunately, I ran out of time. It turns out that Kavi is run by Dhan too, so I will definitely be sure to visit next time I'm in Winchester. If hot chocolate's more your cup of tea, look no further than Chococo.
10:30 — Marvel at Winchester Cathedral
Fuelled by my coffee, it was time for some history! Winchester Cathedral is located in the city centre and you'll want to allow at least an hour — ideally longer — to fully explore. Tickets cost £13.50 (cheaper if you book online), but it's an annual ticket and so good value if you plan to come more than once. The entry fee also includes a guided tour, which I'd recommend if you have time.
Construction started on the cathedral in the 11th century; it's the longest medieval cathedral in the world and one of the largest in the UK. From the soaring ceilings and stained-glass windows, to the gorgeous 17th century Morley Library upstairs (which you can't photograph, sadly), there's a lot to see.
Don't miss the Anthony Gormley sculpture Sound II in the crypt: it features a figure whose state of reflection mirrors the reflections in the pools of water at its feet when the crypt floods. "Some young people think he's texting," one of the guides said. But he's really on TikTok, right?!
12:00 — Refined lunch at the Rectory
I was lucky to get a table at Chesil Rectory — the only Michelin-listed restaurant in central Winchester — especially during the festive lunch season. It was such a lovely meal that I'd definitely go back. Located in a house dating back to the 15th century, and once owned by Queen Mary I, Chesil Rectory is a unique and cosy spot for a special lunch or dinner.
I started with the Pride & Prejudice cocktail (when in Austen country...) and some bread with dips. My main course — braised beef with mashed potato, confit carrots and onion — was delicious and filling. I didn't really have room for pudding, but the chocolate crémeux with sesame tuile, white miso and coffee caramel and caramelised white chocolate was delightful. The food was beautifully presented and the service warm and friendly.
13:15 — A view worth the climb
The weather was pretty dire on my visit so I decided to skip my plan for a post-lunch walk up to the top of St Giles Hill. The entrance is a short walk from Chesil Rectory and, on a clear, sunny day, the viewpoint offers beautiful vistas over the city and cathedral.
14:00 — Walk through Winchester's past
After lunch, it was time to step back into Winchester's rich history. I booked a 90-minute city highlights walking tour with Winchester Tourist Guides, which started at the Visitor Information Centre. Our guide Colin was knowledgeable and entertaining as he led us through some of the key places — and key moments — in Winchester's past.
We first stopped by the statue of Alfred the Great, the 9th century Anglo Saxon king who made Winchester his seat. Once the second most important settlement in the country, Winchester has often had a key role in our country's history, and even had its own mint for 350 years. Many of these coins were taken by the Vikings and still pop up in Scandinavia to this day!
After a stroll along the River Itchen, we paid a visit to Wolvesey Castle, built by Henry of Blois (Bishop of Winchester and younger brother of King Stephen) in the 12th century. We walked through the ruins, trying to imagine what the Great Hall would have looked like in its heyday.
Afterwards, we paused outside Winchester College — founded in the 14th century by William Wykeham as a way to have more accountants trained up! — before passing by 8 College Street, where Jane Austen spent her final days before her death in 1817. We finished our tour outside the cathedral. If you're short on time, I highly recommend this walking tour for an informative take on the city's history and key sights.
15:30 — Legends of the Round Table
After my walking tour, I headed back to the well-preserved 13th century Great Hall — all that remains of Winchester Castle. Tickets cost £8.50, including admission to the Westgate Museum. If you aren't going to the museum, this price is a little steep as there's not very much to see in the Great Hall (Santa was holding court in a grotto there during my visit!) but again, you do get an annual pass.
But if you are at all interested in Arthurian legend, you won't want to miss the Great Hall, solely because of the Round Table of King Arthur that is on display. This model was made in the 13th century and takes up most of one wall. If this is your jam, you may also enjoy my friend Anne Mattias's novel Kingsrise, a police procedural with more than a hint of other-worldly, Arthurian mystery.
16:00 — Shop 'til you drop
If you're in Winchester during the festive season, don't miss the Christmas market outside the cathedral. It's a great place to stock up on gifts and enjoy a festive drink or snack.
Winchester also has a number of wonderful independent shops in and around its pretty, pedestrianised High Street. P&G Wells is a gorgeous bookshop, located near Winchester College. The Hambledon and The Consortium both sell a wide range of clothes, accessories and homewares from local designers. And for jewellery, including jewellery-making classes, check out Winchester Makers.
18:00 — A slice of the action
Before catching my train back to London, I decided to go for an early supper in Winchester. My research pointed to Pi Pizza, a pizzeria located close to the train station, about 15 minutes' walk from the city centre. It's very popular so try to book if you can, but by showing up early, I was lucky enough to nab a table.
Pi is known for its 'half-and-half' pizzas: you can select two toppings on the regular pizzas and three on the large. I ordered a small with the San Daniele prosciutto (with mozzarella, pesto and rocket) on on half and the chilli-marinated kale (with garlic, pancetta and parmesan) on the other. The pricing is pro-rata-ed, so don't worry if you want to go for a cheaper topping with a more expensive one! Service was friendly and there was a lovely atmosphere. Most importantly, the pizza tasted great.
Other eateries that caught my eye include Overdraft (for tacos) and 5 Boroughs (a new pizza spot), both on Jewry Street. You could also stop for a drink at one of the city's many historic pubs, like the The Wykeham Arms, The Bishop on the Bridge or The Black Boy.
Make a weekend of it
If you have more time, why not spend the weekend in Winchester? The city centre hotels on my list include The Wykeham Arms, The Black Hole, Winchester Royal (my fellow walking tour participants were staying here and spoke highly of it) and Hotel du Vin (I've stayed in several of their other locations and have always rated their hotels).
For a special stay, take a look at Lainston House. Located in a 17th century country house three miles northwest of the city centre, Lainston House is a luxurious hotel with characterful and historic rooms and beautiful grounds.
With more time on your hands, you can also visit Jane Austen's house in Chawton, a 30-minute drive or 55-minute bus journey from Winchester. The pretty cottage is where Austen lived for the last eight years of her life and wrote all six of her novels. Nearby Chawton House, once owned by Austen's brother Edward, also now houses a research centre for early women's writing.
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