28 July 2020

Three Speciality Coffee Shops To Try in Brighton and Hove

It's been six years since my last post about the speciality coffee scene in Brighton and I've been meaning to do an update for some time. One of the Brighton and Hove coffee spots that has long been on my list is Pharmacie Coffee Roasters, whose coffee I've enjoyed on many previous occasions, but whose Hove roastery only opens to the public on Saturdays. As I made my recent visit to Brighton and Hove during midweek, hoping that it would be quieter, Pharmacie was out, however. As was Redroaster, a speciality coffee spot and all-day eatery, which re-opened, post-lockdown, two days after my visit.

Brighton Palace Pier
Nonetheless, I was able to visit several new-to-me coffee shops in Brighton and Hove during the day I was in town, all of which were open for customers who wanted to drink in — at a suitable distance — as well as takeaway.

Wolføx Lab
I came across Wolføx while strolling down the lovely Western Road in Hove. There were a few people enjoying their coffee in the morning sun at the tables on the pavement, but it wasn't too busy inside so I ordered my piccolo and took a seat in one of the comfy yellow armchairs. The cafe is beautifully decorated with a gorgeous espresso machine, interiors brightened with pops of yellow and plants lining the back wall: it was a very relaxing place to enjoy a cup of coffee.

Wolfox Coffee Hove

The coffee is roasted in house — as a Wolves FC fan, I probably should have asked for the Mr Wølf blend, but my piccolo came with the house espresso blend, Mr Føx. There was also a single-origin and a decaf on the menu, and bags of beans for sale. My coffee was very good too: smooth, sweet and with great latte art. Meanwhile, the brunch at the neighbouring Six, which has the same owners, looked fab, and I found out later that there was another Wolføx just steps from my hotel — the restaurant at the roastery — but I'll have to save both for next time.

Wolfox Coffee Hove

Wolfox Coffee Hove

Wolføx Lab is located at 109 Western Road, Hove, and other locations. Website. Instagram.

17 Grams
Formerly known as The Plant Room, 17 Grams is located in the Brighton Lanes, just off North Street on Meeting House Lane. Inside, the bright, airy and quirkily decorated cafe has a handful of physically distanced tables, while there is some more seating outside if you don't mind being dwarfed by a giant Alice in Wonderland (she had obviously eaten the cake) on the mural on Hannington Lane.

17 Grams Brighton

17 Grams Brighton

It's fair to say that I came for the Allpress coffee but stayed for the veggie/vegan brunch. After ordering at the counter, I took a seat inside, admiring the colourful and quirky décor. My piccolo was excellent, as was the food. I went for the cornbread waffles, which came with avocado mousse, hummus and smoky tempeh, a delicious and filling brunch. The staff were all very friendly and welcoming too. 

17 Grams Brighton

17 Grams Brighton

17 Grams is located at 12d Meeting House Lane, Brighton. Instagram.

Coffee@33
My final coffee stop for the day was at Coffee@33 on Trafalgar street at the north end of North Laine. After taking in the monochrome décor, my eyes were drawn to the pastéis de nata behind the counter and I ordered one while considering my next move. As coffee shops have been re-opening, I've tended to stick to espresso-based drinks, partly because my home filter brews are better than my piccolos, and partly because I haven't wanted to take up too much of baristas' time when there's a queue. Coffee@33 wasn't too busy, however, and I had also spotted that there was a natural-processed Ethiopian coffee —which I often enjoy — available as a hand-brewed filter coffee. I took this as a sign and thus ordered my first post-lockdown, drink-in pourover.

Coffee@33 Brighton

Coffee@33 Brighton

While waiting for the coffee, I made short work of the pastel de nata: creamy custard encased in crisp, flaky pastry. I also chatted with Amè as he brewed my coffee through the Kalita Wave. Unsurprisingly, central Brighton coffee shops — with fewer office workers and tourists — have been much quieter over the past few months, although things are starting to rebound. During my visit, several other customers — most of them clearly loyal regulars — came in, and everyone received a warm welcome. As for the coffee, it was great — I could smell the heady notes that natural Ethiopian coffees hit so well long before the carafe reached my table, and it tasted just as good.

Coffee@33 Brighton

Coffee@33 is located at 33 Trafalgar Street, Brighton. Twitter. Instagram.

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