On my second full day in Reykjavik, I ticked off two of Iceland's most bucket-list-worthy experiences: touring the incredible natural landscapes of the Golden Circle and taking a jeep safari to hunt the Northern Lights. Not a bad day, in other words!
29 November 2016
27 November 2016
Reykjavik I: Exploring Downtown Reykjavik
Iceland has been on my bucket list for a number of years but I've always been paralysed by indecision: should I go in the summer for long days, road trips and puffin-spotting, or in the winter for potential Northern Lights activity but likely bad weather? I ended up opting for the latter for my first trip to the country; I've been enjoying it so much so far that I'm sure a return in the summer will be on the cards.
21 November 2016
"I Believe You Call It Democracy" — A United Kingdom Review
Amma Asante's new film A United Kingdom opens in 1947: just two years after the end of World War Two and London is finding its feet again. A young man and woman meet at a dance, fall in love and decide to marry. It's the oldest story in the book — what could be more ordinary? Yet Ruth (Rosamund Pike) and Seretse (David Oyelowo) are no ordinary couple and theirs is a most extraordinary true story.
Asante's film is a beautiful and powerful portrayal of a particularly shameful period in Britain's recent history in which Ruth is the daughter of a lower-middle-class salesman and who works in a typing pool. Seretse is the heir to Bechuanaland, the southern African country that would eventually become Botswana but at the time a protectorate of the United Kingdom. They meet after Seretse finishes his studies at Oxford and shortly before his uncle calls him back to his homeland to take up his birthright as king of Bechuanaland. The happy young couple decide to marry against the wishes of both families — and against the wishes of the British government, whose interests in this matter range from murky to downright questionable.
Still, optimistically — naively, perhaps — they press forward, hoping that their families and countries will come to accept their marriage once they have returned to Bechuanaland. Instead, what follows is a number of years of struggle, separation, courage and belief that love will indeed conquer all.
A United Kingdom is rich in its contrasts: golden, sun-parched African landscapes and grey, rainy London streets, accompanied by Patrick Doyle's haunting score. But the film's beauty goes far beyond its surface and its striking cinematography. It's a compelling story, with Oyelowo a magnetic and quietly commanding screen presence as always. Pike's role is, in some ways, more understated but it is to the actress's credit that Ruth's strengths shine through, particularly when she is forced to adapt to life in Bechuanaland in ways she had never anticipated. Her accent wavers at times — from Lardarn to upper crust — but this may stem from Ruth's own struggle to find her place in the world of which she was once so confident.
I'd like to say that the British government characters — particularly Jack Davenport's slimy Alistair Canning and Tom Felton's smug Rufus Lancaster — were caricatures (never has the phrase, "would you care for sherry?" made me rage more at the big screen), but alas, I suspect they are all too accurate.
Asante is rapidly establishing herself as a very accomplished director. As with her previous film, Belle, A United Kingdom is a complex but fascinating story about love, history, politics and race. It isn't a 'worthy' film in the negative sense of the word; it's just an engrossing, inspiring and very well-made film
Asante's film is a beautiful and powerful portrayal of a particularly shameful period in Britain's recent history in which Ruth is the daughter of a lower-middle-class salesman and who works in a typing pool. Seretse is the heir to Bechuanaland, the southern African country that would eventually become Botswana but at the time a protectorate of the United Kingdom. They meet after Seretse finishes his studies at Oxford and shortly before his uncle calls him back to his homeland to take up his birthright as king of Bechuanaland. The happy young couple decide to marry against the wishes of both families — and against the wishes of the British government, whose interests in this matter range from murky to downright questionable.
Still, optimistically — naively, perhaps — they press forward, hoping that their families and countries will come to accept their marriage once they have returned to Bechuanaland. Instead, what follows is a number of years of struggle, separation, courage and belief that love will indeed conquer all.
A United Kingdom is rich in its contrasts: golden, sun-parched African landscapes and grey, rainy London streets, accompanied by Patrick Doyle's haunting score. But the film's beauty goes far beyond its surface and its striking cinematography. It's a compelling story, with Oyelowo a magnetic and quietly commanding screen presence as always. Pike's role is, in some ways, more understated but it is to the actress's credit that Ruth's strengths shine through, particularly when she is forced to adapt to life in Bechuanaland in ways she had never anticipated. Her accent wavers at times — from Lardarn to upper crust — but this may stem from Ruth's own struggle to find her place in the world of which she was once so confident.
I'd like to say that the British government characters — particularly Jack Davenport's slimy Alistair Canning and Tom Felton's smug Rufus Lancaster — were caricatures (never has the phrase, "would you care for sherry?" made me rage more at the big screen), but alas, I suspect they are all too accurate.
Asante is rapidly establishing herself as a very accomplished director. As with her previous film, Belle, A United Kingdom is a complex but fascinating story about love, history, politics and race. It isn't a 'worthy' film in the negative sense of the word; it's just an engrossing, inspiring and very well-made film
18 November 2016
At German Gymnasium, Central European Fare in a Period Setting
After a three-course meal at German Gymnasium, you'll probably need a trip to a real gymnasium. The restaurant, located on King's Boulevard in the heart of the King's Cross redevelopment, is divided into a more casual, all-day 'grand café' on the ground floor and a more formal restaurant upstairs, but the menu is on the heavy side even downstairs. On a rainy Monday evening in November, however, German- and northern-European-influenced comfort food was just what I felt like and my mum and I decided to celebrate our respective birthdays there.
The restaurant is named for the erstwhile home of the German Gymnastic Society, which was built on the site over 150 years ago. The building has now been lovingly restored and converted into a huge and beautiful restaurant, which opened up last year. Despite it size — there are over 400 covers — German Gymnasium was busy even on a wintry Monday night. Our table in the grand café was great for soaking up the bustling ambiance and for admiring the architecture of the building and the period features. The structure of the roof was particularly impressive, but the central foliage and autumnal lighting gave the restaurant a warm, cosy feel.
I started with a gin and tonic or, more precisely, a King & Tonic, which was made with a Hamburg gin called Gin Sul, coriander bitters and Mediterranean tonic. I've never tried Gin Sul before but it worked really well with the bitters and I would definitely order it again. My mum's ginger mocktail was tasty and beautifully presented too.
We decided to share two starters. I ordered the smoked salmon with potato rösti and horseradish. The rösti was good but the flavoursome salmon was the real star of the dish. I also tried some of my mum's shrimp cocktail, which, refreshingly, came with melon and cucumber.
I'd thought about ordering something a little more...well, German for my main course but as it was my birthday, I ended up going for a burger. This was something of a risk as I'm quite fussy about burgers these days and usually do extensive research before taking the chance of being disappointed with an inferior patty. However, my concerns were soon allayed because the beef was meaty, juicy and perfectly medium rare, the bacon crispy, and the onions crispier. It was also so big that it had to be served in its own cast-iron skillet.
With a £12.50 price tag, it was very good value. My only criticism was that the 'house sauce' was a little too mustardy for my liking. I also ordered a portion of triple-cooked chips, which can sometimes end up being too dry, but these were crispy on the outside but beautifully fluffy and moist on the inside. Given the size of the burger, I probably didn't really need the side order, but my mum and I managed to eat them all anyway. If you fancy something a little more German or Austrian, the menu also has a few hot dogs, schnitzels and currywursts. The menu is meat-heavy but there are some fish and vegetarian options too.
The puddings sounded tasty — especially the hazelnut praline — but a little too rich and creamy for me, especially after two big courses. I did have a macchiato, though, which was fine but nothing particularly special.
I work in King's Cross and it has been great to see so many new and interesting restaurants opening up in the area over the past few years. The German Gymnasium feels less casual than the others, but it's a great place for a nice meal in a beautiful setting, and I would definitely like to try the schnitzel, if not the currywurst.
German Gymnasium. 1 King's Boulevard, London, N1C 4BU (Tube: King's Cross). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
The restaurant is named for the erstwhile home of the German Gymnastic Society, which was built on the site over 150 years ago. The building has now been lovingly restored and converted into a huge and beautiful restaurant, which opened up last year. Despite it size — there are over 400 covers — German Gymnasium was busy even on a wintry Monday night. Our table in the grand café was great for soaking up the bustling ambiance and for admiring the architecture of the building and the period features. The structure of the roof was particularly impressive, but the central foliage and autumnal lighting gave the restaurant a warm, cosy feel.
I started with a gin and tonic or, more precisely, a King & Tonic, which was made with a Hamburg gin called Gin Sul, coriander bitters and Mediterranean tonic. I've never tried Gin Sul before but it worked really well with the bitters and I would definitely order it again. My mum's ginger mocktail was tasty and beautifully presented too.
We decided to share two starters. I ordered the smoked salmon with potato rösti and horseradish. The rösti was good but the flavoursome salmon was the real star of the dish. I also tried some of my mum's shrimp cocktail, which, refreshingly, came with melon and cucumber.
I'd thought about ordering something a little more...well, German for my main course but as it was my birthday, I ended up going for a burger. This was something of a risk as I'm quite fussy about burgers these days and usually do extensive research before taking the chance of being disappointed with an inferior patty. However, my concerns were soon allayed because the beef was meaty, juicy and perfectly medium rare, the bacon crispy, and the onions crispier. It was also so big that it had to be served in its own cast-iron skillet.
With a £12.50 price tag, it was very good value. My only criticism was that the 'house sauce' was a little too mustardy for my liking. I also ordered a portion of triple-cooked chips, which can sometimes end up being too dry, but these were crispy on the outside but beautifully fluffy and moist on the inside. Given the size of the burger, I probably didn't really need the side order, but my mum and I managed to eat them all anyway. If you fancy something a little more German or Austrian, the menu also has a few hot dogs, schnitzels and currywursts. The menu is meat-heavy but there are some fish and vegetarian options too.
The puddings sounded tasty — especially the hazelnut praline — but a little too rich and creamy for me, especially after two big courses. I did have a macchiato, though, which was fine but nothing particularly special.
I work in King's Cross and it has been great to see so many new and interesting restaurants opening up in the area over the past few years. The German Gymnasium feels less casual than the others, but it's a great place for a nice meal in a beautiful setting, and I would definitely like to try the schnitzel, if not the currywurst.
German Gymnasium. 1 King's Boulevard, London, N1C 4BU (Tube: King's Cross). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
17 November 2016
"Now That's a Proper Introduction" — Arrival Review
"So, how many languages do you speak?" As a former student of linguistics, I have been asked this question a lot. The answer is: three fluently (English, French and Italian), one well (Spanish) and two a little (German and Japanese) but, as I would often explain, linguistics isn't about learning as many languages as possible, but the scientific study of language — how it evolved, how it is structured and how it varies. The cliché of the linguist as the polyglot is the biggest misstep of Denis Villeneuve's new film Arrival, but something likely only to irritate linguists, who are, in any case, too busy enjoying their discipline's moment in the spotlight to care too much; besides, there are a few good linguistics in-jokes too.
As usual, I've tried to avoid any major spoilers in this review, but this is one of those films that is best experienced by going in knowing as little as possible about it, so please consider coming back after you've watched the film if you would like to go into it with a blank slate. Suffice to say, though, that it was beautiful and moving, thoughtful and complex, and one of my favourite films of the year. The Contact connection is an obvious one but it reminded me more of Christopher Nolan's excellent Interstellar in its themes and tone.
The film's titular arrival is that of twelve huge ovoid spacecraft in random locations across the globe, prompting world leaders to try to work out who or what is inside them and what they want. Some nations react with suspicion, while others send in the scientists, including theoretical physicist Ian Donnelly (Jeremy Renner). The US military also sends in the country's top linguist, Louise Banks (Amy Adams) — or, at least, the top linguist who already has the necessary security clearance. Handily, she is also fluent in a wide array of languages.
Banks's task is to find out why the alien visitors are here. Unsurprisingly, she is apprehensive when she first enters the alien craft that has landed in Montana and the reveal of the alien beings — shadowy seven-legged cephalopods — is teasingly slow. After a brief attempt to crack the heptapods' 'spoken' language, Banks demonstrates writing, eventually encouraging the pair — whom Donnelly dubs Abbott and Costello — to reveal their own form of visual communication: complex, ephemeral ink patterns that resemble coffee rings. With Louise's knowledge of language and some hefty computational processing power, the team make very gradual progress in understanding what Abbott and Costello have to say.
At least, so they think; without any common points of reference, how could another being understand that if I point at myself and say 'Bex', I am referring to 'Bex the coffee blogger' rather than 'woman', 'human' or 'living creature', for example? There is a crucial difference, then, between the heptapods saying they have weapons and saying they have a gift. One of the film's central linguistic themes relates to linguistic relativity whereby the language you speak shapes how you perceive the world. Without saying too much about the language or communication system of the heptapods, the perception of time is a critical component of it, and this also becomes key to understanding the film.
While Banks endeavours to crack her toughest linguistic puzzle yet, she is also struggling with events in her personal life, which first surface in the film's opening sequence — an emotional and powerful montage that is accompanied by Max Richter's haunting and apt On the Nature of Daylight. And really, despite its alien catalysts, Arrival is a film about humanity, compassion and understanding. Adams is magnificent as Banks — empathetic, warm and convincing as the unlikely heroine, she manages to turn her character's inherent sadness into her biggest strength.
Villeneuve's film is cleverly structured and compelling to watch, particularly as the final pennies begin to drop. Like Interstellar, it is the kind of film that overwhelms you at the time and then stays with you as you gradually process what you have seen and experienced. Although quite different from Villeneuve's last film, Sicario, Arrival does have a lot in common with his 2011 movie Incendies, where the search for truth, identity and meaning also features prominently.
As usual, I've tried to avoid any major spoilers in this review, but this is one of those films that is best experienced by going in knowing as little as possible about it, so please consider coming back after you've watched the film if you would like to go into it with a blank slate. Suffice to say, though, that it was beautiful and moving, thoughtful and complex, and one of my favourite films of the year. The Contact connection is an obvious one but it reminded me more of Christopher Nolan's excellent Interstellar in its themes and tone.
The film's titular arrival is that of twelve huge ovoid spacecraft in random locations across the globe, prompting world leaders to try to work out who or what is inside them and what they want. Some nations react with suspicion, while others send in the scientists, including theoretical physicist Ian Donnelly (Jeremy Renner). The US military also sends in the country's top linguist, Louise Banks (Amy Adams) — or, at least, the top linguist who already has the necessary security clearance. Handily, she is also fluent in a wide array of languages.
Banks's task is to find out why the alien visitors are here. Unsurprisingly, she is apprehensive when she first enters the alien craft that has landed in Montana and the reveal of the alien beings — shadowy seven-legged cephalopods — is teasingly slow. After a brief attempt to crack the heptapods' 'spoken' language, Banks demonstrates writing, eventually encouraging the pair — whom Donnelly dubs Abbott and Costello — to reveal their own form of visual communication: complex, ephemeral ink patterns that resemble coffee rings. With Louise's knowledge of language and some hefty computational processing power, the team make very gradual progress in understanding what Abbott and Costello have to say.
At least, so they think; without any common points of reference, how could another being understand that if I point at myself and say 'Bex', I am referring to 'Bex the coffee blogger' rather than 'woman', 'human' or 'living creature', for example? There is a crucial difference, then, between the heptapods saying they have weapons and saying they have a gift. One of the film's central linguistic themes relates to linguistic relativity whereby the language you speak shapes how you perceive the world. Without saying too much about the language or communication system of the heptapods, the perception of time is a critical component of it, and this also becomes key to understanding the film.
While Banks endeavours to crack her toughest linguistic puzzle yet, she is also struggling with events in her personal life, which first surface in the film's opening sequence — an emotional and powerful montage that is accompanied by Max Richter's haunting and apt On the Nature of Daylight. And really, despite its alien catalysts, Arrival is a film about humanity, compassion and understanding. Adams is magnificent as Banks — empathetic, warm and convincing as the unlikely heroine, she manages to turn her character's inherent sadness into her biggest strength.
Villeneuve's film is cleverly structured and compelling to watch, particularly as the final pennies begin to drop. Like Interstellar, it is the kind of film that overwhelms you at the time and then stays with you as you gradually process what you have seen and experienced. Although quite different from Villeneuve's last film, Sicario, Arrival does have a lot in common with his 2011 movie Incendies, where the search for truth, identity and meaning also features prominently.
14 November 2016
Birthday Fun at Mercato Metropolitano
Regular readers will know that I am a great fan of street food markets and I've always envied friends with summer birthdays who can organise fun but casual evening celebrations at the likes of Street Feast. But my birthday is in mid-November — today, in fact — and it's rare that the weather is very pleasant.
I was pleased, then, when Mercato Metropolitano opened a couple of months ago. The market is a new venue that encompasses artisan street food and drink counters, an Italian deli, a co-working space and even a pop-up cinema opened up in an area the developers call 'SoBo' (South of Borough), but that is essentially Elephant and Castle. Although there are some outdoor spaces too, most of the food and drink counters are inside the large, heated warehouse on Newington Causeway.
My brother, sister-in-law and I visited Mercato Metropolitano the weekend before last, stopping off for a post-dinner drink and gelato from Florentine gelateria Badiani. My gelato was delicious — a creamy, salted caramel flavour — and I really liked the vibrant but relaxed atmosphere and decided to go back with some friends to celebrate my birthday on Saturday. Anyone who has ever tried to book a table for more than 10 people in London will understand why I was so keen to avoid the hassle and stress of group set menus and pre-ordering, and Mercato Metropolitano was a much more flexible option. Everyone could eat and drink what they wanted and no bill splitting was required. NB: I didn't have my camera with me, so apologies for the iPhone photos.
We got there about 6:30 and secured one of the many large tables. Over the course of the next few hours, we all ate, drank, grazed and chatted. We shared a really nice bottle of champagne from the Champagne + Fromage counter (the food and drink counters represent both established restaurant and bars, and street-food purveyors), as well as a large sharing platter or meats and cheese, which was really good value and very well thought out.
Although many of the food and drink options are Italian, there are plenty of other choices too, from arepas and burgers, to locavore vegan fare and Vietnamese street food. The counters don't tend to have obvious branding, though, so if you're looking for a particular vendor, it can be tough to find. It is also worth noting that while you can find many of the non-Italian vendors at other markets or around London, many of the Italian vendors are only available here — and in Italy.
We were sitting next to the 'pizza napoletana' stall, which turned out to be produced by Milan-based Naples-style pizzeria Fresco. They are so forward-looking in their vision that they claim to be 'fondata nel 2020' (founded in 2020). I can't speak to that but the pizzas looked great and after having so much pizza disappointment while I was in Naples in August, I decided to order one. The margherita was a reasonable £6 and it took about 20 minutes to be ready (there was a queue and they were also handling a fair few takeaway orders). It was worth the wait, though, with its lovely chewy crust, thin base and excellent mozzarella and tomato (a little more cheese wouldn't have gone amiss).
There is plenty of craft beer, wine and prosecco available, as well as a nice selection of cocktails. I went to a little hispanic bar cart, which specialised in interesting mojito variations. They were out of the basilito, unfortunately, but the regular mojitos were well made and a good size. Most cocktails were around £8.
The cinema itself, run by Backyard Cinema and located in a little cavern near the entrance to the market, wasn't screening anything at the weekend but they have a packed — and rapidly booking up — schedule of Christmas movies screening over the next few weeks. The deli is an expensive place to do a weekly shop, but a good spot for picking up some really nice parmesan, cured meat or 'nduja — and for Italian expats to find some of their favourite brands. You can also find details of tastings and other events on the Mercato Metropolitano Facebook page.
All in all, Mercato Metropolitano is a creative and fun all-day venue and a great new addition to the Elephant and Castle (sorry, SoBo) neighbourhood. They are open 11 am to 11 pm Tuesdays through Saturdays, and 10 am to 9 pm on Sundays. Vai a visitarlo!
Mercato Metropolitano. 42 Newington Causeway, London, SE1 6DR (Tube: Elephant & Castle). Website.
I was pleased, then, when Mercato Metropolitano opened a couple of months ago. The market is a new venue that encompasses artisan street food and drink counters, an Italian deli, a co-working space and even a pop-up cinema opened up in an area the developers call 'SoBo' (South of Borough), but that is essentially Elephant and Castle. Although there are some outdoor spaces too, most of the food and drink counters are inside the large, heated warehouse on Newington Causeway.
My brother, sister-in-law and I visited Mercato Metropolitano the weekend before last, stopping off for a post-dinner drink and gelato from Florentine gelateria Badiani. My gelato was delicious — a creamy, salted caramel flavour — and I really liked the vibrant but relaxed atmosphere and decided to go back with some friends to celebrate my birthday on Saturday. Anyone who has ever tried to book a table for more than 10 people in London will understand why I was so keen to avoid the hassle and stress of group set menus and pre-ordering, and Mercato Metropolitano was a much more flexible option. Everyone could eat and drink what they wanted and no bill splitting was required. NB: I didn't have my camera with me, so apologies for the iPhone photos.
We got there about 6:30 and secured one of the many large tables. Over the course of the next few hours, we all ate, drank, grazed and chatted. We shared a really nice bottle of champagne from the Champagne + Fromage counter (the food and drink counters represent both established restaurant and bars, and street-food purveyors), as well as a large sharing platter or meats and cheese, which was really good value and very well thought out.
Although many of the food and drink options are Italian, there are plenty of other choices too, from arepas and burgers, to locavore vegan fare and Vietnamese street food. The counters don't tend to have obvious branding, though, so if you're looking for a particular vendor, it can be tough to find. It is also worth noting that while you can find many of the non-Italian vendors at other markets or around London, many of the Italian vendors are only available here — and in Italy.
We were sitting next to the 'pizza napoletana' stall, which turned out to be produced by Milan-based Naples-style pizzeria Fresco. They are so forward-looking in their vision that they claim to be 'fondata nel 2020' (founded in 2020). I can't speak to that but the pizzas looked great and after having so much pizza disappointment while I was in Naples in August, I decided to order one. The margherita was a reasonable £6 and it took about 20 minutes to be ready (there was a queue and they were also handling a fair few takeaway orders). It was worth the wait, though, with its lovely chewy crust, thin base and excellent mozzarella and tomato (a little more cheese wouldn't have gone amiss).
There is plenty of craft beer, wine and prosecco available, as well as a nice selection of cocktails. I went to a little hispanic bar cart, which specialised in interesting mojito variations. They were out of the basilito, unfortunately, but the regular mojitos were well made and a good size. Most cocktails were around £8.
The cinema itself, run by Backyard Cinema and located in a little cavern near the entrance to the market, wasn't screening anything at the weekend but they have a packed — and rapidly booking up — schedule of Christmas movies screening over the next few weeks. The deli is an expensive place to do a weekly shop, but a good spot for picking up some really nice parmesan, cured meat or 'nduja — and for Italian expats to find some of their favourite brands. You can also find details of tastings and other events on the Mercato Metropolitano Facebook page.
All in all, Mercato Metropolitano is a creative and fun all-day venue and a great new addition to the Elephant and Castle (sorry, SoBo) neighbourhood. They are open 11 am to 11 pm Tuesdays through Saturdays, and 10 am to 9 pm on Sundays. Vai a visitarlo!
Mercato Metropolitano. 42 Newington Causeway, London, SE1 6DR (Tube: Elephant & Castle). Website.
09 November 2016
Weekend Brunch at Galley, Islington
Although I work in King's Cross, I only eat out very rarely in nearby Islington, which is a shame because there are a number of restaurants in the neighbourhood that I'm very keen to try. Oldroyd is one and Galley, a little further up Upper Street, was another until my friends and I selected it as the latest venue for our monthly girls' brunch a couple of weeks ago.
As you might expect from its name, Galley's main menu features mainly fish and seafood dishes, but the weekend brunch menu is more balanced. When I was looking at the menu a few weeks ago, I remembered a lobster dish on the brunch menu — lobster with scrambled eggs, perhaps — which sounded great but was no longer listed, unfortunately. I say 'unfortunately' but I had a tough enough time choosing among four of six brunch dishes.
The waffles with crispy pancetta, maple syrup and a fried egg (£10) almost won me over, but in the end, I went for the smoked bacon and cheddar hash with a fried duck eggs and homemade brown sauce (£9). I'm generally indifferent to store-bought brown sauce but this homemade version was very flavoursome and added a nice kick to the dish. The hash browns were great too — because I'm greedy, I probably could have eaten a slightly larger portion.
However, this worked out for the best when the dessert menu made an appearance. I don't usually have a pudding after brunch but the salted caramel cheesecake with pecan praline and toffee sauce (£7) sounded too good to pass up. It took a little while to arrive but was worth the wait because it tasted delicious and was beautifully presented. The consistency was more semifreddo than cheesecake but this didn't prevent me from cleaning my plate.
There were dessert cocktails too — one of which featured Coco Pops and bourbon! — but I was content with my gin bloody mary (£6), which was super-spicy and came with bourbon and bacon jam as well as the usual trimmings. It was a great cocktail and the price was very reasonable.
Galley's design is beautiful too with tasteful pops of sage green and orange. We were seated in a cosy booth, but there are bar stools (which also looked very comfortable) at the open kitchen counter and the bar. It was the weekend before Halloween and, in a very American style, the staff were all dressed up; there was a really nice atmosphere too and it was a good venue for a girlie catch-up. The service wasn't always as attentive as it could have been, but it was fairly busy. I hope I'll be able to come back sometime to sample the seafood.
Galley. 105–106 Upper Street, London, N1 1QN (Tube: Angel or Highbury & Islington). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
As you might expect from its name, Galley's main menu features mainly fish and seafood dishes, but the weekend brunch menu is more balanced. When I was looking at the menu a few weeks ago, I remembered a lobster dish on the brunch menu — lobster with scrambled eggs, perhaps — which sounded great but was no longer listed, unfortunately. I say 'unfortunately' but I had a tough enough time choosing among four of six brunch dishes.
The waffles with crispy pancetta, maple syrup and a fried egg (£10) almost won me over, but in the end, I went for the smoked bacon and cheddar hash with a fried duck eggs and homemade brown sauce (£9). I'm generally indifferent to store-bought brown sauce but this homemade version was very flavoursome and added a nice kick to the dish. The hash browns were great too — because I'm greedy, I probably could have eaten a slightly larger portion.
However, this worked out for the best when the dessert menu made an appearance. I don't usually have a pudding after brunch but the salted caramel cheesecake with pecan praline and toffee sauce (£7) sounded too good to pass up. It took a little while to arrive but was worth the wait because it tasted delicious and was beautifully presented. The consistency was more semifreddo than cheesecake but this didn't prevent me from cleaning my plate.
There were dessert cocktails too — one of which featured Coco Pops and bourbon! — but I was content with my gin bloody mary (£6), which was super-spicy and came with bourbon and bacon jam as well as the usual trimmings. It was a great cocktail and the price was very reasonable.
Galley's design is beautiful too with tasteful pops of sage green and orange. We were seated in a cosy booth, but there are bar stools (which also looked very comfortable) at the open kitchen counter and the bar. It was the weekend before Halloween and, in a very American style, the staff were all dressed up; there was a really nice atmosphere too and it was a good venue for a girlie catch-up. The service wasn't always as attentive as it could have been, but it was fairly busy. I hope I'll be able to come back sometime to sample the seafood.
Galley. 105–106 Upper Street, London, N1 1QN (Tube: Angel or Highbury & Islington). Website. Twitter. Instagram.
07 November 2016
The Caffeine Chronicles: The New Black Coffee (CLOSED)
UPDATE: The New Black has now closed permanently.
The New Black's London base is right opposite the Walkie Talkie building, which means that even on a Saturday — usually a quiet day for The City — there are quite a few passersby on their way to the Sky Garden at 20 Fenchurch Street. Despite its unassuming façade, the interiors are accented with enough bright neon colours that I blended in rather well in my hot pink down jacket.
On the left-hand side is a world map highlighting some of the roasters from around the world whose coffees are currently featured. Many of these names are familiar to and beloved of me: Tim Wendelboe (Oslo), Verve (Santa Cruz, CA), Counter Culture (Durham, NC), and The Coffee Collective (Copenhagen), to list just a few. There are small ceramic cups with samples of each bean available too.
A long, futuristic-looking counter runs the length of the café's right-hand side. At the very end is a handy, colourful coffee tasting wheel, as well as The New Black's recommended coffees for brewed and espresso-based drinks, each coffee being listed with its tasting notes. This extensive coffee menu is also displayed on the iPads that are positioned along the counter.
Naturally, I wanted to try a piccolo and a filter coffee. For the espresso-based drink, I went with something old (familiar to me, at least): the Sermon blend from Verve (£3.40 as an espresso or piccolo). However, as I was, after all, in The New Black, I felt that I ought to try a new-to-me roaster for my black coffee. I wasn't familiar with Sydney roaster Single O, but their Shakiso variety from Ethiopian (£5) sounded right up my street. Filter coffees are brewed to order through the Alpha Dominche Steampunk.
The barista brought over my piccolo first, just as I had to take an urgent work phone call. By the time I'd finished, my coffee was already cooling so, unprompted, the barista made me a new one, which was incredibly sweet. The second one arrived looking more like a piccolo, with a nice latte art heart on top. I also really liked the ceramic cups in which the coffee was served; they come from Singapore. The lighting in the seating area was, alas, not great for photography, but the piccolo was very nice. You could really taste the rich dark chocolatey notes and the latte art remained all the way down.
As for the brewed coffee, I was really impressed. £5 is a lot for a filter coffee (£3.40 is not cheap for a piccolo, for that matter), but the subtle flavour notes of the light, fruity and refreshing Shakiso coffee came through really nicely. I'm now keen to try some more of Single O's coffees.
The New Black is a good spot for tea lovers too (I didn't investigate the broad offering) and they also serve various cakes and pastries from local bakeries — as I was leaving (just as they were closing), the staff insisted that I take a canelé to try as they would have to throw them out otherwise, and it was a lovely sweet treat. Seating-wise, there are a few small tables next to the coffee bar, topped with cool but not easily photographed shiny metal surfaces; there are more tables in the back, along with a roaster hall of fame.
Although the prices are a little steep, I was impressed with both of the coffees I tried and, as I'm always looking for opportunities to sample coffee from new or hard-to-obtain roasters, I'm happy to pay a little more for the privilege. Their Single O filter coffee is, after all, cheaper than a return flight to Melbourne! And with its friendly, knowledgeable staff, The New Black is a great addition to London's coffee scene.
The New Black. 10 Philpot Lane, London, EC3M 8AA (Tube: Monument).
02 November 2016
The NYC Caffeine Chronicles: 2016 Brooklyn Update
I've spent a lot of time in Brooklyn over the years, but with the exception of the original Café Grumpy and Williamsburg Toby's Estate, I haven't made many inroads into the borough's speciality coffee scene. I'm not quite sure why — possibly because by the time I make it over (or under) the river, it's often cocktail hour — but on my most recent trip, I started to make amends and spent half a day visiting four coffee bars. There were a couple more on my list but neither time nor my caffeine intake (I'd made the rookie error of drinking three coffees back in Manhattan) were on my side.
Devociòn (Williamsburg)
As with many visitors to New York, Williamsburg is the Brooklyn neighbourhood with which I am most familiar, so I'll start with the two cafés I visited there, although chronologically speaking, Williamsburg was at the end of my self-guided walking tour. I had heard many good things about the NYC branch of Colombian roaster Devociòn and I'm pleased to say that the rumours were true!
On a cold but sunny autumn afternoon, the large central sitting area was bathed in light from the giant skylight and there was a bustling, vibrant atmosphere. The décor is rustic — comfy leather sofas, brick walls and cheerful pops of bright yellow, from the cups to the wall art and parasols. The coffee menu was extensive, with three varieties of coffee served as a pourover (plus a 'special edition'), as well as the usual espresso-based drinks and several cold drinks served on tap (sparkling cascara, for instance). Although I really wanted to try a pourover, I had just had two filter coffees in Bushwick, and so stuck to a cortado, which was strong and smooth. The barista apologised for not having a glass to serve it in, but I rather liked my sunny yellow cup. Devociòn also serves some great-looking sandwiches, and although it's busy, there are plenty of seats so you should find a spot to sit.
Devociòn is located at 69 Grand Ave nr Wyithe. Twitter. Instagram.
Sweatshop (Williamsburg)
A Sydney-based coffee-loving friend of mine recommended Sweatshop, which is just a few blocks east of Devociòn, a couple of years ago and I've been wanting to visit the espresso bar/lifestyle store/creative space ever since. The first thing to note is that: there is a place called The Sweatshop in Bushwick (just down the block from City of Saints, in fact) that also describes itself as a creative studio of sorts — it is, however, a music recording studio/rehearsal space and they don't serve coffee!
As soon as I saw the, "Don't look for love, look for coffee," sign outside, I knew I had come to the right place. Inside, Sweatshop is small with just a couple of small, mirrored tables and a larger communal table, with more seating out front. The interiors are minimalist: a sleek black La Marzocco sits on a black counter; the menu — which is in Australian — is also monochrome and the Acme cups are slate grey. After so many cortados, which, in the US sense of the word, tend to be a little too long for my taste, it was nice to have the option to order a shorter piccolo. From the menu, I also learned some new Aussie coffee terminology: esky (iced coffee), sparky (espresso tonic) and magic (flat white). If you need more guidance, there is a handy chart in the bathroom (or you could just ask!).
The coffee is from Counter Culture and piccolo was excellent: one of the best espresso-based drinks I had on this trip, with great latte art and a smooth but flavoursome taste. You can also order a doughnut (I had a lavender-vanilla one, which was delicious), "brekkie biscuits" or "jaffles", if you are so inclined. You can also shop from the small but well-curated selection of lifestyle goods on sale — most of which are similarly monochrome. Sweatshop is based in the heart of Williamsburg so there is really no excuse not to stop by if you're in the neighbourhood.
Sweatshop is located at 232 Metropolitan Ave bet. Bedford & Driggs. Twitter. Instagram.
City of Saints Roastery (Bushwick)
It's about a two-mile walk from Williamsburg to Bushwick, where the other coffee spots on my tour are located. If you don't fancy walking, it's a short ride on the L subway line, but I prefer to explore new neighbourhoods on foot. I didn't have time to stop for coffee at the City of Saints Roastery, which is in an industrial area in the north of Bushwick, but I happened to pass it on my walk so I peeked inside. I had already had a pourover at City of Saints' Manhattan coffee bar and bought a bag of beans, so it was nice to see where the roasting magic happens. There aren't very many other points of interest nearby (save the aforementioned music studio The Sweatshop) — in some ways, it reminded me of some of the arches of my own London neighbourhood, Bermondsey.
City of Saints' roastery is located at 297 Meserole St bet. Waterbury & Bogart. Twitter. Instagram.
Update: Unfortunately, Supercrown closed its doors for the last time in late 2017.
Supercrown Coffee Roasters (Bushwick)
I visited many coffee bars and cafés on my most recent trip to New York, but Supercrown in Bushwick might well be my favourite new discovery. As soon as I saw the coffee bar set-up on their Instagram — royal blue espresso machine and hot pink grinders — I knew that it was my kind of place and indeed, they seem to like vibrant colours as much as I do.
Supercrown's coffee bar is large and spacious, although only has a few high tables (with super-comfy, velvet-covered stools) for drinking in. The café is very bright, thanks in part to the stark white walls, accented with wooden furniture. The roaster — also bright pink — occupies a large open space at the back. Meanwhile, the colourful retail bags of coffee beans sit like a rainbow on the shelves near the door.
The pourover menu at Supercrown is particularly extensive: there were seven coffee varieties available and in the end, I went with the barista's recommendation of a Ruarai coffee from Kenya (Ruarai is obviously producing some great coffee at the moment, as I also had a Ruarai variety at City of Saints). The coffee tasted fantastic, the slightly sharp fruity notes contrasting nicely with the subtler sweeter flavours. On the tray, the barista placed a card containing information about the coffee, which is *great* for bloggers like me, who otherwise end up taking endless photos of menus and bags of means or scribble down notes. The orangey-yellow beans pictured above are the Ruarai.
If I didn't have two more coffee bars on my list for the afternoon, I would have liked to try the Ruarai as a single-origin espresso or to try the one and one (a split double-shot: one espresso and one mac). Supercrown is also famous for its coffee milkshakes and the maple lattes are also supposed to be good, but neither is really my thing. The breakfast sandwiches, however, sounded great. With its relaxed ambience, knowledgeable baristas and great coffee, Supercrown is well worth the journey — even if that journey is all the way from London!
Supercrown is located at 8 Wilson Ave nr Noll. Twitter. Instagram.
Walter's Coffee Roastery (Bushwick)
When a Breaking Bad-themed coffee shop named Walter's Coffee Roastery opened in Istanbul last year, followed more recently by a second location in Bushwick, Brooklyn, I thought the premise was great. However, I also assumed that it sounded very gimmicky and that the coffee wouldn't be any good. As soon as I arrived at the Brooklyn café, though, my skepticism began to fall away: Walter's would be a great coffee spot even without the Breaking Bad connection.
Like Devociòn, Walter's is decorated with pops of bright yellow, which contrasts nicely with the clean — dare I say sterile? — walls. The menu is probably the most gimmicky thing there — a periodic table of coffee — but I loved it; what a wonderful idea. They had run out of the Japanese cold brew — more was brewing, so I went for a fruity Kenyan coffee, brewed through the Chemex.
The coffee took a little while to cool — perhaps I just noticed this because I was on a tight schedule — but was very flavoursome and full-bodied. As my surname begins with 'W', I also had designs on the mug, which didn't seem to be for sale, but I took only photos. The café itself is large and spacious with a few seats at the front, next to the coffee bar, and tables of various size in the larger back room and patio. The crowd was a mix of MacBook-toting locals and tourists, and the diverse menu at Walter's was clearly very carefully selected to please both crowds. But the staff clearly take great pride in the quality of their coffees, which they roast themselves, and they are knowledgeable and friendly whether you're a speciality coffee connoisseur or a Walter White fan.
Walter's is located at 65 Irving Ave @ Starr. Twitter. Instagram.
You can also find out which Manhattan coffee bars I visited last month and read almost a decade of my New York coffee posts here.
Devociòn (Williamsburg)
As with many visitors to New York, Williamsburg is the Brooklyn neighbourhood with which I am most familiar, so I'll start with the two cafés I visited there, although chronologically speaking, Williamsburg was at the end of my self-guided walking tour. I had heard many good things about the NYC branch of Colombian roaster Devociòn and I'm pleased to say that the rumours were true!
On a cold but sunny autumn afternoon, the large central sitting area was bathed in light from the giant skylight and there was a bustling, vibrant atmosphere. The décor is rustic — comfy leather sofas, brick walls and cheerful pops of bright yellow, from the cups to the wall art and parasols. The coffee menu was extensive, with three varieties of coffee served as a pourover (plus a 'special edition'), as well as the usual espresso-based drinks and several cold drinks served on tap (sparkling cascara, for instance). Although I really wanted to try a pourover, I had just had two filter coffees in Bushwick, and so stuck to a cortado, which was strong and smooth. The barista apologised for not having a glass to serve it in, but I rather liked my sunny yellow cup. Devociòn also serves some great-looking sandwiches, and although it's busy, there are plenty of seats so you should find a spot to sit.
Devociòn is located at 69 Grand Ave nr Wyithe. Twitter. Instagram.
Sweatshop (Williamsburg)
A Sydney-based coffee-loving friend of mine recommended Sweatshop, which is just a few blocks east of Devociòn, a couple of years ago and I've been wanting to visit the espresso bar/lifestyle store/creative space ever since. The first thing to note is that: there is a place called The Sweatshop in Bushwick (just down the block from City of Saints, in fact) that also describes itself as a creative studio of sorts — it is, however, a music recording studio/rehearsal space and they don't serve coffee!
As soon as I saw the, "Don't look for love, look for coffee," sign outside, I knew I had come to the right place. Inside, Sweatshop is small with just a couple of small, mirrored tables and a larger communal table, with more seating out front. The interiors are minimalist: a sleek black La Marzocco sits on a black counter; the menu — which is in Australian — is also monochrome and the Acme cups are slate grey. After so many cortados, which, in the US sense of the word, tend to be a little too long for my taste, it was nice to have the option to order a shorter piccolo. From the menu, I also learned some new Aussie coffee terminology: esky (iced coffee), sparky (espresso tonic) and magic (flat white). If you need more guidance, there is a handy chart in the bathroom (or you could just ask!).
The coffee is from Counter Culture and piccolo was excellent: one of the best espresso-based drinks I had on this trip, with great latte art and a smooth but flavoursome taste. You can also order a doughnut (I had a lavender-vanilla one, which was delicious), "brekkie biscuits" or "jaffles", if you are so inclined. You can also shop from the small but well-curated selection of lifestyle goods on sale — most of which are similarly monochrome. Sweatshop is based in the heart of Williamsburg so there is really no excuse not to stop by if you're in the neighbourhood.
Sweatshop is located at 232 Metropolitan Ave bet. Bedford & Driggs. Twitter. Instagram.
City of Saints Roastery (Bushwick)
It's about a two-mile walk from Williamsburg to Bushwick, where the other coffee spots on my tour are located. If you don't fancy walking, it's a short ride on the L subway line, but I prefer to explore new neighbourhoods on foot. I didn't have time to stop for coffee at the City of Saints Roastery, which is in an industrial area in the north of Bushwick, but I happened to pass it on my walk so I peeked inside. I had already had a pourover at City of Saints' Manhattan coffee bar and bought a bag of beans, so it was nice to see where the roasting magic happens. There aren't very many other points of interest nearby (save the aforementioned music studio The Sweatshop) — in some ways, it reminded me of some of the arches of my own London neighbourhood, Bermondsey.
City of Saints' roastery is located at 297 Meserole St bet. Waterbury & Bogart. Twitter. Instagram.
Update: Unfortunately, Supercrown closed its doors for the last time in late 2017.
Supercrown Coffee Roasters (Bushwick)
I visited many coffee bars and cafés on my most recent trip to New York, but Supercrown in Bushwick might well be my favourite new discovery. As soon as I saw the coffee bar set-up on their Instagram — royal blue espresso machine and hot pink grinders — I knew that it was my kind of place and indeed, they seem to like vibrant colours as much as I do.
Supercrown's coffee bar is large and spacious, although only has a few high tables (with super-comfy, velvet-covered stools) for drinking in. The café is very bright, thanks in part to the stark white walls, accented with wooden furniture. The roaster — also bright pink — occupies a large open space at the back. Meanwhile, the colourful retail bags of coffee beans sit like a rainbow on the shelves near the door.
The pourover menu at Supercrown is particularly extensive: there were seven coffee varieties available and in the end, I went with the barista's recommendation of a Ruarai coffee from Kenya (Ruarai is obviously producing some great coffee at the moment, as I also had a Ruarai variety at City of Saints). The coffee tasted fantastic, the slightly sharp fruity notes contrasting nicely with the subtler sweeter flavours. On the tray, the barista placed a card containing information about the coffee, which is *great* for bloggers like me, who otherwise end up taking endless photos of menus and bags of means or scribble down notes. The orangey-yellow beans pictured above are the Ruarai.
If I didn't have two more coffee bars on my list for the afternoon, I would have liked to try the Ruarai as a single-origin espresso or to try the one and one (a split double-shot: one espresso and one mac). Supercrown is also famous for its coffee milkshakes and the maple lattes are also supposed to be good, but neither is really my thing. The breakfast sandwiches, however, sounded great. With its relaxed ambience, knowledgeable baristas and great coffee, Supercrown is well worth the journey — even if that journey is all the way from London!
Supercrown is located at 8 Wilson Ave nr Noll. Twitter. Instagram.
Walter's Coffee Roastery (Bushwick)
When a Breaking Bad-themed coffee shop named Walter's Coffee Roastery opened in Istanbul last year, followed more recently by a second location in Bushwick, Brooklyn, I thought the premise was great. However, I also assumed that it sounded very gimmicky and that the coffee wouldn't be any good. As soon as I arrived at the Brooklyn café, though, my skepticism began to fall away: Walter's would be a great coffee spot even without the Breaking Bad connection.
Like Devociòn, Walter's is decorated with pops of bright yellow, which contrasts nicely with the clean — dare I say sterile? — walls. The menu is probably the most gimmicky thing there — a periodic table of coffee — but I loved it; what a wonderful idea. They had run out of the Japanese cold brew — more was brewing, so I went for a fruity Kenyan coffee, brewed through the Chemex.
The coffee took a little while to cool — perhaps I just noticed this because I was on a tight schedule — but was very flavoursome and full-bodied. As my surname begins with 'W', I also had designs on the mug, which didn't seem to be for sale, but I took only photos. The café itself is large and spacious with a few seats at the front, next to the coffee bar, and tables of various size in the larger back room and patio. The crowd was a mix of MacBook-toting locals and tourists, and the diverse menu at Walter's was clearly very carefully selected to please both crowds. But the staff clearly take great pride in the quality of their coffees, which they roast themselves, and they are knowledgeable and friendly whether you're a speciality coffee connoisseur or a Walter White fan.
Walter's is located at 65 Irving Ave @ Starr. Twitter. Instagram.
You can also find out which Manhattan coffee bars I visited last month and read almost a decade of my New York coffee posts here.